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Dominoes posted:Still looking for recommendations. I may have to settle for a FWD car. Scirocco/mini? Maybe a FR-S, but couldn't really get a used one, so it'd wipe a good chunk of my savings, even after selling the Miata. Also, buying new, riding the worst of the depreciation, and selling in a few years when I move back to the US doesn't make sense. AFAIK, Scion doesn't exist in England. I think you'd be looking at an equivalent Toyota GT86 or Subaru BRZ (and the associated price bump).
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Aug 18, 2013 09:59
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Kenny Rogers posted:Were it my situation, and my money, I'd try to put 25% down on a $4000 car someplace, and pay well over the monthly payment to try to knock out the other 3000 ASAP. Your budget numbers indicate that you're socking away $1120 bucks a month. Making 6x $500 car payments shouldn't set your savings back too much for too long. Thanks -- I had a look at private sales in my area, and I think I've found three good options: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/3978660603.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4007644964.html http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4006283989.html These are in the $5k-7k range, a bit more than you recommended. I found more in this range that I would like to keep after eventually saving for and buying a newer car in 1-2 years. We only have one now, which needs a transmission rebuild, and we live in an area where one car will be tough to pull off if/when we move just a mile or two away from the city center. Those model years all look good on Edmunds. I'm favoring the Suzuki, assuming it's still available, and yes, there is still a Suzuki service center in my area. My credit union has pre-approved me for $7000 at 4.75%. I still plan on putting at least $1000 down. Does anyone see any red flags in all this? My next step is to ask about the Suzuki's availability and double-check insurance costs.
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Aug 18, 2013 20:03
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Maultaschen posted:Does anyone see any red flags in all this? cool kids inc. and I are looking to buy a car, too, and all our pre-approved offers have been to purchase through a dealer so far.
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Aug 18, 2013 20:57
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Kenny Rogers posted:The only thing that I'd double check is that they've pre-approved you to purchase from a private seller. The pre-approval was for a private seller or a dealership. The rep on the phone gave me instructions for notarizing the title and getting a bill of sale from a private party.
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Aug 18, 2013 21:26
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I'm on vacation out of state and my Toyota 2001 sequioa is getting to be mostly used up. Would it be possible to trade it in at a local honda dealer? I mean I don't have the title in hand but I could mail it to them when I get home? I'm looking to get a cr-v.
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Aug 19, 2013 13:54
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I currently drive (drove) a 2008 Infiniti G37S Coupe, 6MT. 58xxx miles on the odometer. The clutch slave cylinder has gone out on the car again, and the dealership wants $1.5k to fix it again; I paid for it to be fixed last December but since then I've gone over the 12k miles that they warrantied the part for. The mileage is also reaching a point where a new clutch and flywheel needed, new brakes are needed, and new tires should be put on the car soon (I think I can squeeze maybe another 3k miles out of them, but at that point I'd be scared to drive on them in the wet). I've shopped around to some other shops in the area and done some shopping online for parts. Right now I'm looking at around $2.5k to get my car's transmission back on track (parts+labor), another $1k for brakes, and another $1k for tires. A big part of me is thinking that I should just ditch the car on a trade in and wash my hands of it and get something smaller and more reliable. Since I own the car outright, there would be no loan to worry about. My life has also changed quite a bit since I bought the car (commute longer / through more traffic for work, got married, thinking about a family) so I think a more reliable 4 door is in my future soon. So I guess, financially, what would you guys do in this situation? Choice A: Tow the car to the local Nissan/Infiniti aftermarket shop, have them do all the repairs. Drive into the ground or until a possible future baby happens. Choice B: Take the financial hit, trade in the vehicle and get something more reliable in my price range of the trade in + repair costs. kimcicle fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 06:55
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$2.5k seems like a lot for that for a non dealership. $1k for brakes sounds comically high. $1k for tires is a bit much as well. All 4 corners shouldn't cost that much for brakes. i think they seem brembos on there and see dollar signs. Rock auto will sell you the parts for like $400 for somewhat higher end stuff. Maybe $200 for labor, brakes aren't hard. Hankook V12 evos for $700, add $100 for mounting and balancing. So you got $1300 in brakes. Clutch job, unless parts are made of unobtainium, should be under $1500 or so. I don't know the slave cylinder location, but that is a job that even dealers charge hundreds, not thousands for on most cars. The G37 is considered a fairly reliable car, so I'd probably just stick with it. That said, a broken car will virtually always get less than the fixed price factoring cost or repair. Fix it in any event. Also, why do you think you need a clutch now? Unless it is slipping 58k is fairly soon to have the changed unless you're racing it or something.
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Aug 20, 2013 07:16
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Sorry I didn't clarify, but I would have to do brakes and rotors at the same time; just trying to stay on the safe side of things. Most packages I've seen come in around 600 or so, plus 250 for fluids and labor. As for clutch / flywheel, many other 370z/G37 owners say they should be replaced when doing the clutch slave cylinder due to the fact you have to drop the transmission for the clutch cylinder. Might be a bit overkill but if I'm paying a shop to drop the transmission for one thing might as well do the other. Also most owners say the clutch will start to slip around 60k miles.
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Aug 20, 2013 07:26
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kimcicle posted:Sorry I didn't clarify, but I would have to do brakes and rotors at the same time; just trying to stay on the safe side of things. Most packages I've seen come in around 600 or so, plus 250 for fluids and labor. If the slave cylinder requires dropping a transmission, you probably should be allow to kick an engineer in the balls, but yeah, if you're doing that you probably might want to do the clutch. That sad, every clutch on every forums seems to last 40-60k because forum boy racers can't not fry clutches.
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Aug 20, 2013 07:34
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My Infiniti dealer doesn't even charge that much for brakes. I had my rears done through them because for around $200 on my EX35. I don't know if you're on the mailing lists, but my dealer sends out service specials about every two weeks for various things. Also, as mentioned above, those cars are actually supposed to be very reliable for an entry level luxury vehicle. I bought my 2008 EX35 with 35k on the odometer and I've put about 60k on it since and I've had to do no work on it aside from general service. Hell the tires haven't even really reached the end of their life yet and I'm still on the set I bought it with (they were brand new when I got it). I do mostly highway driving though which is why that's the case.
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Aug 20, 2013 14:53
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I'm currently negotiating with a dealer on a Hyundai Elantra. We are going back and forth via e-mail and he just seems to be avoid simple and direct questions and it's driving me crazy. It's making me not trust him. I've met him in person, test drove the car with him a few weeks ago, he has given me a price, that I have basically agreed to, without stating that directly. The reason I haven't given him a verbal commitment is he seems to be refusing to answer these 2 questions. - "Is the car we are talking about the one we test drove?" - "What option package does the car we are talking about have?" Why would he avoid answering these questions? I'm sure he wants to talk me into more options etc., but it makes me not trust him. I have the VIN # and have checked the specific car on-line. It lists the "package" this car "has"... but then in small print it says options may vary talk to your dealer. I'm trying to talk to my dealer and he doesn't seem to want to answer my questions via e-mail. It's kind of the principle of the thing now with me. If I go to the lot and I'm not getting what I think I'm getting I'm just going to be wasting everybody's time. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 15:17
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kimcicle posted:So I guess, financially, what would you guys do in this situation? Shop around for prices on the work, but I think putting 3K into the car will give you another 18+ months of service you'll come out way ahead than buying something else. It's much cheaper to keep fixing an older car than buying a new one in most cases.
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Aug 20, 2013 16:33
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nm posted:As far as I know the Kia/Hyundai 10yr/100k warranty is non-transferable, so used cars don't come with that. I just bought a used 2012 Kia Rio and can confirm this. This is only the case with the limited power-train warranty. The 60 month / 60k miles full warranty does transfer.
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Aug 20, 2013 17:43
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My own experiences with car dealers have been very very negative when communicating by email. They would never answer a direct question, absolutely refuse to quote a price and purposely ignore emails and questions they do not like. They also seem to think that the chances of me buying a car from them is directly related to the sheer number of canned messages they can put in my inbox. Do not ever give a car dealer your email.
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Aug 20, 2013 17:53
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New or Used: Used Budget: around $22,000 +/- $1,500 Body Style: Sedan Mileage: Under 70k is preferable. Location: Greater Seattle Car Experience I have an ok working knowledge, can change fluids, tires, brakes. I have several good friends who were mechanics. How will you be using the car?:Commuting to and from work, as well as driving around for work. I put about 20k miles a year on my car. What aspects are most important to you? I'm looking for something that is equal parts luxury and fun. I also have 2 kids in car seats so it has to be a sedan. Gas is paid for by work so MPG is not really a concern. The cars I am looking at initially are BMW M5: Has everything in spades, but finding one in my price range with low enough miles is near impossible(or just straight not gonna happen). Also worried about maintenance costs, especially on it's complicated transmission BMW M3: Also right up my alley, but finding a Sedan is difficult. Acura TL-S: Good value for the money as far as luxury goes. Not sure how "fun" it is at <300hp front wheel drive Inifini G35 /G37- Don't really know much about this one, but Edmunds seems to think it is a pretty good value as well. What do you guys think, does one stand out as the better pick, or is there something else I have overlooked?
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Aug 20, 2013 21:12
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G35/G37 Sedan. The engine has plenty of pickup for it's size and it's a pretty reliable vehicle (despite what the post a few up seems to indicate). That powertrain is used in a bunch of vehicles and it's quite sound. I'd recommend finding either the most recent year of G35 or the first year of the G37. The interior took a big jump up in quality then. I find the interior to be loads nicer than a 3 series, at least in terms of looks, they're pretty similar in material quality.
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Aug 20, 2013 21:21
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B7 Audi S4 with the 6MT would be right up your alley. A $22k e60 M5 with SMG sounds terrifying. If you are worried at all about maintain acne costs then stay away from six figure plus cars with dry sump engines and carbon ceramic brakes in general. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 23:07
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Dial M for MURDER posted:New or Used: Used I'm not 100% sure how cheap you would find them by now, but the Infiniti M cars are a significant step up from the G in interior quality, and the M with the V8 is just excellent.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:18
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Dial M for MURDER posted:New or Used: Used If you have any room in your budget the Taurus SHO/ Lincoln MKS Ecoboost might be worth looking at. A bit larger than what you listed, but lots of bells and whistles while being easy on maintenance. 2010's are getting down to the mid/high 20's so they're a bit more than you want to spend, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:43
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Throatwarbler posted:B7 Audi S4 with the 6MT would be right up your alley.  Yes, this isn't terrifying at all. --------- You can get an M5 in stick, not that the rest of that car isn't terrifying at well. What does a used 2nd gen CTS-V go for? edit: Too loving much. I wonder if a Pontiac G8 GT/GXP would be enough luxury for you? You can probably eek out a 2009 GXP for $21,000. nm fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 01:54
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nm posted:
People are nuts and are demanding around $30,000 for a good 09 G8 GXP. You should be able to get a G8 GT for that price though, lose about 50 HP, but it has all the same luxury features as the GXP.
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Aug 21, 2013 02:41
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I'll have to check into the Audi S4. I used to have a 2000 A4 and really liked it and a 1994 Audi 80 before that. For some reason I hadn't really thought about going back to Audi. I don't really think I am really interested in American cars. Buick, Cady, etc just don't really interest me that much. Even if I can get more for my money and potentially keep maintenance costs lower. I'm also not really interested in Mercedes. I just don't really like them for one, and the other is my boss just bought an AMG E63. Yeah I knew the M5 tranny was crazy...but that is really unimaginable. It's hard thought because I have always wanted an M5...guess I'll just keep on dreaming for now.
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Aug 21, 2013 05:11
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'll have to check into the Audi S4. I used to have a 2000 A4 and really liked it and a 1994 Audi 80 before that. For some reason I hadn't really thought about going back to Audi. I don't really think I am really interested in American cars. Buick, Cady, etc just don't really interest me that much. Even if I can get more for my money and potentially keep maintenance costs lower. Uhm, that picture was the S4 motor. The back of the motor. Also, honestly the CTS-V (out of your price) kind of out germans the germans. That the Pontiac G8 is Australian, so it doesn't really count.
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Aug 21, 2013 05:48
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Yeah so sometimes the timing system needs an overhaul and you'll need about $6500. It's not that bad compared to an M5. ...or I suppose you could just buy a 335i like everyone else. 
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Aug 21, 2013 07:21
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Sole Survivor posted:People are nuts and are demanding around $30,000 for a good 09 G8 GXP. You should be able to get a G8 GT for that price though, lose about 50 HP, but it has all the same luxury features as the GXP. Pontiac only ended up building something like 1700 GXPs over the two model years. They're a bit rare. Which translates into most of them getting parked in a garage, while Cletus waits for his "investment" to mature.
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Aug 21, 2013 11:10
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nm posted:Uhm, that picture was the S4 motor. The back of the motor. Haha I guess I just showed exactly how much I know about cars. Edit: And I just looked at the Cady CTS-V. That's actually a pretty nice car but like you said, outta my price range. Dial M for MURDER fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 17:31
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Dial M for MURDER posted:BMW M5: Has everything in spades, but finding one in my price range with low enough miles is near impossible(or just straight not gonna happen). Also worried about maintenance costs, especially on it's complicated transmission Do you need an M? In that price range, you could probably find a 3-series BMW sedan that's not much more than 5 years old. If you go much older, you're definitely running a risk of weird issues. BMW's out of warranty... when they're good, they're awesome, but when they break, it's complicated and expensive. The G35/37 are definitely good cars. Have you also looked at anything from Lexus? Might definitely be worth considering.
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Aug 22, 2013 02:52
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purpleandgold posted:Do you need an M? In that price range, you could probably find a 3-series BMW sedan that's not much more than 5 years old. If you go much older, you're definitely running a risk of weird issues. BMW's out of warranty... when they're good, they're awesome, but when they break, it's complicated and expensive. I've been hearing that a lot out BMW's. It funny because I put 160k on my Audi with zero problems...but I think I may have been in the minority for no problem german cars. If I look at anything german, I'll probably be looking to get a certified pre-owned just to cover myself. Also yeah the M cars are a little bit more expensive. I'm open to the idea, but the choices right now are slim What would I be looking at for Lexus? Something like an ES/IS 350 or something? Not really familiar with their lineup besides the ISF which is way to much right now for me.
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Aug 22, 2013 15:10
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Only the IS 350 competes with the G/BMW3. The IS 250 is a sporty "looking" car. The 350 has some pickup. That said, the 350 is mostly outclassed by both the G and 3xx. I am reading they have made great strides with the 2014 IS350 F Sport, but that is out of your budget. Honestly, just go drive a few G37's. You'll see.
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Aug 22, 2013 16:00
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If you're interested in a Lexus the ES350 might fit the bill. It's not what I would call sporty, but the last gen was reasonably quick. A GS 350/430/450 fits more of the sports sedan mold. I personally don't care for the IS series of vehicles, they're just not compelling compared to other offerings in the market.
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Aug 22, 2013 16:08
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I've been hearing that a lot out BMW's. It funny because I put 160k on my Audi with zero problems...but I think I may have been in the minority for no problem german cars. If I look at anything german, I'll probably be looking to get a certified pre-owned just to cover myself. BMWs, especially the 1 & 3 series, are pretty reliable cars overall (the 7 not so much). Statistically more so than anything from Audi. German cars in general require that you stay on top of your scheduled maintenance items lest you acquire a lot of maintenance debt. That's how BMWs and other luxury cars get a bad rap I think. If you don't follow the maintenance schedule for a few years, or you go and buy a used car that has 5+ years of maintenance debt then yeah you're going at risk of seeing a several thousand dollar repair bill in the near future. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. They will cost more to own and operate over their lifetime compared to a Civic or whatever, but not wildly so. It helps immensely if you find a good independent mechanic that isn't out to rape your wallet like a dealership, or even better if you can do some routine maintenance or minor repairs yourself. My indy Euro-specialist mechanic is typically half the cost of the dealership for most anything. That's true for any car brand, but especially for the more premium brands. I've had my 04 330ci for a couple of years and outside of scheduled maintenance have had only one minor, well-documented and easily DIY-able problem that cost me less than $100 to fix. I bought it out of warranty but with a documented maintenance history and it's been very very good to me. Previously I've had a 1990 535i that was pretty bulletproof as well but had a few "old car" issues that any car of that age is going to have regardless of brand. All that said, I don't recommend anything German/European for someone who is looking for a gas-and-forget transportation appliance. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Aug 22, 2013 |
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Aug 22, 2013 18:09
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I've been driving a rental 2013 Hyundai Genesis v6 with 8 speed auto for the past week and it's pretty drat nice, the wide spread of gear ratios really gives the car some pickup from a standing start. I just looked and you could get a 2012 easily within your budget and the 5 year/60k mile warranty would still be in effect.
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Aug 23, 2013 06:31
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I know that the Korean brands have really been upping their game the last few years. One of my best friends bought a Kia optima and it's a very nice car for the money. That being said I still don't trust them enough.
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Aug 23, 2013 16:00
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I've pretty much driven my 2000 Saturn SL1 into the ground, and I think it's time I start thinking about something new. The car is tiny, and gets 30-40 MPG, and I'm quite happy with that. I guess right now that's the extent of what I'm looking for a new car. I think I like the idea of a hatchback, but I'm not even really sold on that. Even though my car was tiny it had a huge trunk. Really I just want my exact car but with a working engine and an AC block that isn't cracked and generally doesn't have sketchy past before I bought it.
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Aug 23, 2013 18:10
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FISHMANPET posted:I've pretty much driven my 2000 Saturn SL1 into the ground, and I think it's time I start thinking about something new. Need a price range.
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Aug 24, 2013 03:00
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Proposed Budget: $30-35k, 10k down. New or Used: New, preferably. Body Style: Coupe or Sedan is fine. How will you be using the car?: Daily commute, about 15-20m one-way, some fun driving (as much as can be had in the Midwest, at least). What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, fun to drive, at least somewhat practical? Have a 1996 Toyota Camry that's still going strong, so this isn't an immediate need; thus, 2014 models are also options if there's anything particularly snazzy coming out soon.
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Aug 24, 2013 04:08
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Proposed Budget: Under $30k New or Used: Would prefer used to keep costs down, but would want fairly recent/low mileage...and given used market is so hot, not fully decided on this front. Body Style: SUV - 7 passenger (replacing an aging Mercury Mountaineer) How will you be using the car?: No towing, but need room for family of 4 and associated ski gear / road trip luggage, etc. Won't be doing any towing, most driving will be the usual suburban errand-running, interspersed with family road trips. What aspects are most important to you?: safety, low cost of ownership, MPG...could care less about aesthetics and gizmos. So far my research has led me to the Mazda CX-9, the GMC Acadia and the Hyundai Santa Fe. Render judgment, please. Separately, I have heard Sep/Oct are good months to buy cars in because the model years are getting switched out...true? What do folks think of buying a "new" 2013 model when 2014s are on the lot? Good strategy? Or is there some other way of maximizing bang for your buck at this time of year?
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Aug 24, 2013 04:22
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Looking to go trade my '06 GTO in on a new Volt tomorrow, because I'm getting older, wiser, and more pussified in general. Wish me luck!
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Aug 24, 2013 04:33
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nm posted:Need a price range. Part of it is that I have no idea yet. Either I buy a used car that will last me a few years or a new car that will last me 10-15 years(I really don't drive that much). I think for new I'd want to spend around $10k-$20k. I found the Chevy Spark, and I like it because it's small, has good MPG, and is pretty inexpensive (around $14k). Any thoughts on it? There's a 2013 model in the color and package I want in my area that I'll probably go test drive soon.
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Aug 24, 2013 05:08
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^^^^^^^ This is what second cars are for. RoyalScion posted:Proposed Budget: $30-35k, 10k down. Fun in the midwest says a Subaru WRX or STI if you don't care about fuel economy. There is a new for 2014 WRX and STI coming so they might be worth waiting for or it might be worth getting a deal on a 2013. FISHMANPET posted:Part of it is that I have no idea yet. Either I buy a used car that will last me a few years or a new car that will last me 10-15 years(I really don't drive that much). I think for new I'd want to spend around $10k-$20k. Otherwise, the standard Fiesta, Yaris, and Fit options. If you realy don't care about anything, the Versa is a great deal, but terrible to drive from most accounts. nm fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 05:09
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