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My once faithful Yamaha TT-400 has started having heavily wavering speed when playing at 45rpm. Is this likely to be a belt or motor issue? Fixable cheaply?  I'm considering just replacing it with something given the right price, but I'm in Perth, Australia so shipping from Amazon is either not possible (they can't ship some electronic stuff to us) or expensive. Most retailers here are expensive as poo poo. I've found a Project Essential at a store locally for $222 and one place selling a Debut Carbon for 399 (every other store lists it at $499). Of course lower price is preferred but I'm happy to go for the higher ones if the quality will reflect that. Currently using a Ortofon OMB 5E cartridge so the cartridge included in each deck is a factor to consider. The Carbon has an Ortofon OM10, the Essential another OM5E. edit; Given that the Carbon I can get doesn't have the 2M red, it'd be $322 for the Essential + a 2M red or whatever nice cartridge. That has to factor into it! I'm leaning towards the Essential right now. I'd very much appreciate any advice. Dude Sweet fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 07:32
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I'll give a short history. This amp was my Dads that get got new the same day he bought my Mom her engagement ring. He also got a sweet high end Kenwood turntable and Akai tape deck. Unfortunately they are long gone. It spend the last few years in his garage and then just boxed in a shed. When I got my hands on it, it didn't work. The volume pots needed to be cleaned and away it went. While I was working on it I noticed some wires had been shorted inside. Turns out that the light bulbs that illuminate the power, main direct and disk buttons are all critical and when they burn out the unit stops working. I found the wire diagram online and started fixing it, as I just happened to have one of the correct bulbs. There was a service note from the early 80s to wire some zener diodes etc. to bypass the bulbs when they fail, so I went a step further and wired up all that and some resistors and LEDS. I used a breadboard and multimeter to check before I wired it in. This is where I ran into some problems. The main direct switch was broken and shorted the amp throwing the protection relay when pressed. The disk button I couldn't check as I don't have a record player, but the amp didn't seem to like it being pressed anyway. After using it a bit I noticed that it smelled bad, and the smell wasn't going away, it was getting worse. When I opened it and started taking parts out I found lots of damaged bits. I took some photos, but there was a lot more damaged than just what I have here. It still played music, but I'm sure it wasn't long before the whole thing was going do die.    This one is maybe a bit hard to tell from the photo, but that whole area of PCB is burned.   One of the four main power transistors. I think they are fine, but the legs on them are all blackened.  I went and got my meter again and started following the traces to find bad parts. I found a lot of the switches had failed in spots, and a good deal of the components were at least a little damaged or corroded in some way. After reading up on this unit online a bunch I decided it wasn't worth replacing half the stuff on the board, changing it out completely made more sense. I like the way the unit looks so I'd hate to just throw it out. I had the amp kit from about 5 years ago I think. I put it in an ugly wooden box I made for it. It sounds good but is ugly so I had it in the basement. I figured that would be a good replacement. I lucked out and only had to cut two fins off the heatsink and the amp boards fit perfectly. Interestingly enough the LM4780 chips are just slightly smaller than the power transistors on the original amp. Each chip is a full stereo amplifier, but I have them wired in bridge mode so each chip is one channel. I did play to keep the phono amp, but it didn't work anymore and I thought at this point I may as well replace it with a new kit that I could make and fit inside. As I said I don't have a record player so this is a lower priority right now. I do want to have the volume knob work. The balance would be nice as well. The treble and bass controls I don't really need, but they would be nice too I guess. The problem is the sliders are old and I don't trust them anymore. I don't know of any kits I could build to replace them. I'm open to suggestions. One idea I had was to put an LED based VU meter where the listening level monitor slider is. The slot is about the right size for the rectangle shaped LEDs to fit. I have also ordered the ODAC as I said and it will be the primary source. When I know what I'm doing I'll order some parts online to make the volume and input selector work again. Anyway, if anyone wants to know more or has and suggestions I'm all ears.
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Aug 20, 2013 14:45
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mevans posted:My once faithful Yamaha TT-400 has started having heavily wavering speed when playing at 45rpm. Is this likely to be a belt or motor issue? Fixable cheaply? Might be the belt slipping. I would take a look at it and it just might need some cleaning. You could also replace the belt as well. http://www.lptunes.com/Yamaha-TT-400U-TT-400U-TT400U-turntable-belt-p/tt400u.htm I am not familiar with the Ortofon carts, but haven't seen many complaints about them. I'd probably go for the 2M Red over the others, or up the chain if I had more money, they are noticeable but it's up to you where the point of diminishing returns starts to happen.
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Aug 20, 2013 16:14
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TomR posted:I'll give a short history. This amp was my Dads that get got new the same day he bought my Mom her engagement ring. He also got a sweet high end Kenwood turntable and Akai tape deck. Unfortunately they are long gone. It spend the last few years in his garage and then just boxed in a shed. Personally I don't see the joy in completely replacing the innards of a vintage amp just so you can enjoy the faceplate. What model is it? If it's even slightly desirable, I would consider pulling out all the knobs and any other parts that might be salvageable and sell them on ebay. It's not hard to get $20/knob, especially if people are desperate for genuine replacements. Take the money from that and put it into a new vintage amp, one that works. If burned out bulbs completely kill the unit, it sounds like it was poorly designed to begin with.
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Aug 20, 2013 16:42
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From what I have read online it wasn't that great when it came out. Its all solid state and has a bit of a weak sound. I'm sure there are other Yamaha stereos that use the same knobs so I could sell them. That's not the point though, I like the way it looks and I want to keep using it. As an amp it should just amplify and not change the sound. Now if I had an old stereo that used tubes and came with a matching set of speakers etc. I wouldn't want to change the guts because how it sounds is part of what it is. A solid state amp with a flat sound is nothing special and won't be missed. If I hadn't stepped in it would have gone in the trash.
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Aug 20, 2013 17:03
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Philthy posted:Might be the belt slipping. I would take a look at it and it just might need some cleaning. You could also replace the belt as well. I took the platter and belt off, sprayed a bit of some kind of spray lube on the spindle the belt hooks on to, and that seems to have actually done the trick. Thanks very much! Somewhere in all that I adjusted the tonearm balance (which was good before) according to iamthejeff, but must be doing something wrong. I put anti-skate on zero, move the whole weight until the needle balances just above the record without touching it. I dial just the numbered dial back to zero, then try to turn the whole weight to match the 1.75g tracking force on my cart. But I can only get it to about 1.2. It doesn't seem to be skipping but I've heard people say having the tracking weight too low causes the needle to bounce a little within the groove, creating a bit of distortion and damaging the record as if the force was too high. Is there something I'm missing?
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Aug 20, 2013 18:53
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Sounds like you did it right to me. You set everything to zero. Then balance the arm so it is level with the record. Not just above it, not below it. But level where it would be on the record itself (As close as possible). You may need to raise/lower the tonearm to make this possible. Once it is leveled, you dial in the VTF to what ever the carts suggested weight is. Then set the anti-skate to mirror it, or just below it depending for most carts. If you're not sure if your weight numbering is right, you can get a digital gauge for around $20-30 which is always good to have. I have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSP498K/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it confirmed my VTF matches what it says on the tonearm itself when I adjust it. Edit: Looking at the manual, it says it should be balanced with 6mm of space between record and stylus. Which is a bit different than what I've been used to. That would generally create a positive VTA and make the treble a bit on the high side. I would trust the manual over anything else, though, so do that. Philthy fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 19:15
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I'll fiddle with the adjustment a bit until the bass returns to what it was before. The stylus looks to be about 6mm above though I'll measure it when I get home. It'll take a while for the gauge to arrive if I order one. I'll probably buy a new cartridge anyway because I can put that on a new turntable if I get one. Would the Project Essential be a decent upgrade anyway? The $222 price is down from 350 (  ) for a limited time and my next best would be a Carbon for 399 which doesn't include the 2M Red like it does in other countries anyway.
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Aug 21, 2013 06:26
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Got myself a Dual 1225: Got a Philips 877 thrown in the deal, apparently it wasn't working. A new pickup later and it's working just fine. 
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Aug 21, 2013 10:50
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afen posted:Got myself a Dual 1225: Those Philips headshells are poo poo because they have holes instead of slots, so that if your cartidge is proportioned differently from a Philips cart, the alignment may be off by quite a bit.
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Aug 21, 2013 11:03
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Jerry Cotton posted:Those Philips headshells are poo poo because they have holes instead of slots, so that if your cartidge is proportioned differently from a Philips cart, the alignment may be off by quite a bit. Could you recommend a good headshell for this table? The stock one looks like a SME plug, but with longer prongs. I'm using a Pickering XV-15/625E pickup ATM.
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Aug 21, 2013 11:34
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Philips are notorious for using proprietary connectors and poo poo. I'm surprised it even resembles a universal SME mount.
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Aug 21, 2013 11:43
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afen posted:Could you recommend a good headshell for this table? The stock one looks like a SME plug, but with longer prongs. I'm using a Pickering XV-15/625E pickup ATM. Unfortunately, no. Mine (a 777) has a proprietary connector. I do remember seeing suitable ones (with slots instead of holes) for sale on-line occasionally but they were in the 40-50 € range and that's a bit steep for a turntable that often goes for 20-30 €. On the other hand, you can always check the alignment with a protractor, it may well be OK. 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 11:52
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Jerry Cotton posted:Unfortunately, no. Mine (a 777) has a proprietary connector. I do remember seeing suitable ones (with slots instead of holes) for sale on-line occasionally but they were in the 40-50 € range and that's a bit steep for a turntable that often goes for 20-30 €. Thanks for the link! I checked with the Baerwald alignment now, and it's spot on with the Pickering. Looks like a winner!
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Aug 21, 2013 12:21
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afen posted:I'm using a Pickering XV-15/625E pickup ATM. I just picked up a Technics SL-23 with a Pickering XV-15, but the needle was destroyed. I ordered an aftermarket replacement from lpgear.com. Is yours an original or a new replacement? Just curious how the aftermarket ones sound.
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Aug 21, 2013 16:02
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mevans posted:Would the Project Essential be a decent upgrade anyway? I'm not really familiar with the Project tables first hand. I've never seen anything really bad written about them. They are for sure better than your typical $100 Sony/Ion/Whatever brands. People seem to like the Yamaha, so I'm not sure if the Project would be a step up or just a lateral move. If you just want something new and not old, grab the Project and keep the Yamaha as a back up or for a friend. Philthy fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 16:11
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BANME.sh posted:I just picked up a Technics SL-23 with a Pickering XV-15, but the needle was destroyed. I ordered an aftermarket replacement from lpgear.com. Is yours an original or a new replacement? Just curious how the aftermarket ones sound.  Original XV 15 stylus: 99€ Not that that's unusually high for a cart, I just always thought Pickerings were cheaper for some reason.
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Aug 21, 2013 16:13
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BANME.sh posted:I just picked up a Technics SL-23 with a Pickering XV-15, but the needle was destroyed. I ordered an aftermarket replacement from lpgear.com. Is yours an original or a new replacement? Just curious how the aftermarket ones sound. The needle was gone when I got it, so I ordered a new one online. I don't like the sound of it when it's weighted according to Pickering, I feel it sounds better when I add a gram or two to the needle.
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Aug 21, 2013 21:12
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TomR posted:From what I have read online it wasn't that great when it came out. Its all solid state and has a bit of a weak sound. I'm sure there are other Yamaha stereos that use the same knobs so I could sell them.... To be honest, BANME.sh makes a valid point. IMO, there are way prettier vintage receivers out there that are actually worth listening to as well. If you like the minimalist Yammie look, the CR-xx40/CR-xx20 series from the mid-to-late '70s have a rabid following (of which I'm one- you'll have to kill me for my CR-2040) and they generally sell for a bit less than the Pioneer and Marantz amps that everyone talks about (I also think their sound is more "transparent" than Marantz without being flat). I dig what you're doing and it's definitely interesting, but I also can't help but think that the financial/time investment that you're putting into this project might be better spent on restoring a good-sounding vintage receiver instead of putting some okay modern components in the shell of an okay receiver. Edit: drat, I'm hella late with this post. I guess that's what I get for spending the past week on a cross-Canada adventure.
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Aug 22, 2013 19:38
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I get the point he's making too, and I would think you are both right. Just a couple points to put this project into perspective; I fully intended to fix this receiver to original before I got into it and realized it wasn't worth it. If my Dad had bought one of the special receivers back then I would never be doing this to it now. It would have been more worth my time to restore it to original, and if that meant replacing every component on the board then that's what I would be doing for sure. Second, I built the amplifier a few years ago and have been meaning to make a better housing for it since. I would have spent all the time an money on it anyway. It really is an upgrade over the original amplifier used in the receiver. When I'm done it will work better than new, and no great receiver has been destroyed. My ODAC board showed up today, so I'm going to work on getting that wired up. I can't wait to hear how it sounds. Trust me, I know it seems like this is a silly project and a waste of money. It probably is, but I'm having some fun and when I'm finished this thing will sound great. PS I've kept all the original components and if I ever decide to put it back to stock that won't be a problem.
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Aug 22, 2013 19:59
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Here is the ODAC board. I soldered the pin header on the line out. I mounted it where some of the phono jacks used to be. The audio out runs up to the volume control and on to the amp. I have new input selectors coming so I'll wire them up when they get here.  You can see the mini USB port where the phono jack was. I think I will make a plastic baffle and find a good place to mount the board so I can drill a hole and have it not look too awful. Probably down by the serial number sicker.  When I put it all back together my Dad just happened to stop by. We had a listen to it and he was amazed at how good it sounded. I showed him how small the new amps inside were and he couldn't believe it. The built in DAC sounds amazing. When there is silence the amp makes no hum or buzz. So far I'm happy. I could try and find a tone control circuit to have the bass and treble sliders work again. The balance would be nice too. Then I'll just need a phono amp and it's back to 100% of it's original functionality.
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Aug 23, 2013 01:30
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So I recently got a Bang and Olufsen Beogram RX from my uncle since the tonearm on my old Dual quit working. I guess it was just laying around at his house and he wasn't using it. The platter was kind of dirty when I get it from him, so I used the nearest cleaning product on hand, which was Windex, and sprayed a lit bit on the platter only to find out that it didn't exactly leave a streak free shine: I don't know whether that platter is aluminum or what, but I guess maybe the ammonia in the Windex could've reacted with it badly? I suppose it could've been a bit dumb to use Windex on it, but I've used it on similar looking surfaces before and know that people sometimes use it on chrome, so I figured it'd be ok. Is there any way to fix this and make it look better? I'm probably going to give the turntable back to my uncle since the cartridge and stylus need to be replaced, and I'd rather just buy a brand new turntable instead of sinking more money into this thing only to have the tonearm crap out in a few years or something. I just don't want to give it back with the platter looking lovely like that. Whodat Smith-Jones fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 02:05
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Whodat Smith-Jones posted:So I recently got a Bang and Olufsen Beogram RX from my uncle since the tonearm on my old Dual quit working. I guess it was just laying around at his house and he wasn't using it. The platter was kind of dirty when I get it from him, so I used the nearest cleaning product on hand, which was Windex, and sprayed a lit bit on the platter only to find out that it didn't exactly leave a streak free shine: You could put a slipmat on it (which you should do anyway) and stop worrying. Also, why would the tonearm suddenly crap out and stop working? That's arguably the least at-risk-of-crapping-out component of a turntable. If it starts getting stiff, you put a little lubricant on it.
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Aug 23, 2013 02:12
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So I posted on the previous page about my broken receiver (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=58#post418106136). Turns out I don't have a replacement available so I'm wondering if there's any way I could fix the one I have, assuming the problem was caused by a short or an overload. If not I'll keep an eye on my local craigslist but I'd rather save this one if I can.
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Aug 23, 2013 02:30
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Electric Bugaloo posted:You could put a slipmat on it (which you should do anyway) and stop worrying. Also, why would the tonearm suddenly crap out and stop working? That's arguably the least at-risk-of-crapping-out component of a turntable. If it starts getting stiff, you put a little lubricant on it. Well that's basically what happened with the Dual I had, and I think it ended up being more than just an issue with lubricant. I'm kind of too scared to open those things up and mess around with what's going on inside too. I sold the Dual to some guy who apparently knows a guy who fixes them up and sells them, and he suggested going the manual route in the future as well. I'd rather just not sink more money into something that could potentially have problems again later Edit: I also don't know if there's a slipmat that would work with this turntable because the 45 adapter is built into the platter, as you can see in the picture. It just sinks down if you put a 12" LP on top of it. I don't know what kind of slipmat would work with that. Is there really no "spray (product) on there and it will clean it right up" solution? Whodat Smith-Jones fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 02:34
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Bonxai posted:So I posted on the previous page about my broken receiver (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=58#post418106136). Turns out I don't have a replacement available so I'm wondering if there's any way I could fix the one I have, assuming the problem was caused by a short or an overload. If not I'll keep an eye on my local craigslist but I'd rather save this one if I can. Does it do the same if you disconnect all the wires (except power, obviously)? If it does, there must be some internal problem, like a shortcircuit or something. Maybe it could be fixed, who knows without opening it up. Any electronics repair shop should be able to give you a price estimate if they can have a look at it.
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Aug 23, 2013 07:34
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So it isn't exactly "Vintage" but I think it fits in here. I just got clearance from my advisers for working on a 2-channel audiophile receiver/amplifier for my senior thesis project and was wondering if you guys might have any ideas for things you'd like to see in such a product. I've noticed there aren't too many products that have the combination of the vintage look, with vacuum tubes and older analog-style amplification and also with modern amenities like digital inputs and LCD displays. I'm looking to design a product that has all of the modern features, but also includes an older style of amplification. If there was something in this market segment, what would you be willing to pay, and what would you really look for in terms of features? If this is a bit open-ended I'll try and clarify. Features I've come up with: -Multiple digital inputs (coaxial/optical) -High-quality Phono preamp stage -Headphone amplifier stage that isn't just an afterthought -High-quality DAC with various DSP effects to compensate for different speakers/rooms -Built-in level adjustments for subwoofer and L/R channels -Multiple "zones" with different inputs for each Anything else you guys would like to see?
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Aug 24, 2013 01:54
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Use a nutty high end volume control. http://diyaudioprojects.com/Solid/DIY-Lightspeed-Passive-Attenuator/ Sounds like a cool project.
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Aug 24, 2013 02:46
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IR remote Bluetooth A2DP receiver (paired with a good DAC of course)
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Aug 24, 2013 02:52
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BANME.sh posted:IR remote The remote is a given, however A2DP doesn't seem to have the bandwidth requirements to provide high-quality audio. I might look into implementing AirPlay or DLNA, but I think that requires licensing and might be outside the scope of my abilities. I'll look into it.
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Aug 24, 2013 04:27
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How about having all the manual controls motorized so when you press a button on the remote the physical control moves? You could have it do a fancy startup and shutdown routine where it moves the volume knob to mute when you shut it off etc. I like the feel of a good control and I think it goes a long way towards making something feel high end when the switches feel solid.
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Aug 24, 2013 12:35
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The other day, I ordered this 50ft 3.5mm to RCA cable for  on Monoprice so that I could hook up my TV to my Marantz receiver (which are across the room from each other) and get sound out of my Kenwood speakers. Got it in yesterday and tried it out. It can get so loud  Sounds a hell of a lot better than the not so hot Logitech 2.1 system I had hooked up to my TV before this, though.
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Aug 24, 2013 16:31
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So my coworker is hooking me up with a pioneer pl-400 that was given to him by a client. I'm pretty excited to be getting into vinyl and having found this thread figured I might as well get myself up to speed on the ins and outs. I have an old Sony str-se391 laying around that has a phono input. Will this be ok for my purposes? What are some good speakers for around $100 that will work with this table? Are the recommendations in the threads op up to date? What's a good resource to read so I can understand the watts and amps and whosawhatsits better? Thanks for any help you can offer. Pretty excited about turning my finished basement into the my relaxin zone.
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Aug 24, 2013 22:34
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According to this that receiver has a phono input, so you're ok there and about 100 W/ch, so it has plenty of power. As far as speakers go, do you want new or vintage, floor standing or bookshelf, I mean there are a shitload of different speakers for all sorts of uses and preferences. If you can find some older Klipsch KG series like the KG-4 for that price on CL, you'd be set. 100 watts into those and your neighbors may want to kill you. Retarted Pimple fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 23:43
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Retarded Pimp posted:According to this that receiver has a phono input, so you're ok there and about 100 W/ch, so it has plenty of power. As far as speakers go, do you want new or vintage, floor standing or bookshelf, I mean there are a shitload of different speakers for all sorts of uses and preferences. I suppose I'm leaning more towards floor standing but if I can mount them to the wall I'd take bookshelf. As far as vintage vs new, I can go either way. I always love the vintage look, but I'm willing to buy new if it means a better performance for less money. This room is the escape from the children room and as such I don't have a lot of cash to play around with. So whatever packs the better punch per dollar at this point. Can always upgrade later if and when money becomes a little less strained. I'll try to get a pic of the area they will be setup after we get the area cleaned out tomorrow. What sort of stuff should I be weary of when buying from CL? Short of driving around with a turntable in the trunk, how should I verify that I'm not getting scammed? Would something like this be worth while? Would I need a sub or do you think these would handle the full range of sound? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-KG-5-2-Way-Stereo-Bookshelf-Speakers-Pair-50W-5-25-Woofer-Nice-/221268667572#vi-content Should I avoid buying from eBay in general? Inside Out Mom fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 04:11
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Personally I'd go with CL, since it's local(no shipping) and you can usually test and listen before you buy, and yea, I'd take the receiver and a 1/8" to RCA stereo plug cable to use with an mp3 player or cell phone. Those would make awesome computer/near field monitor speakers, but they're probably on the small side if you want to fill a medium sized room unless you plan on getting a sub. I was thinking more of the larger ones KG 2 or KG 4 . http://www.klipsch.com/sitemap Personally I like vintage, you can find great deals when people get rid of their old stuff to make way for that new surround system or clean out the attic. I also like companies that don't use foam on their drivers, I've never had to replace rotted rubber or cloth surrounds, but given time foam will rot out. Which is one of the reasons I mentioned the KG's, they're well built, have rubber surrounds and they tend to stay in the shadows of the Klipsch higher end models so you're more likely to get a good deal. Polk was another good brand. http://columbus.craigslist.org/ele/4002178339.html http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/ele/4024118667.html I've got their big brother and they sound amazing. Retarted Pimple fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 07:38
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Znorps! posted:As far as vintage vs new, I can go either way. I always love the vintage look, but I'm willing to buy new if it means a better performance for less money. Generally speaking, the opposite will be true unless you've got to deal with issues like degradation and sinking money into repairing/restoring a pair. As far as adding a subwoofer goes, look at the output range for whatever pair of speakers you're considering. Most bookshelf speakers (and even many floorstanders) will only go down to ~50Hz at most- and even that will often be with less than stellar results. That may be fine for you- and it probably would be in a small room or tight apartment setup where "polite" is a key concern, but you'd be missing out on the low-end frequencies that a sub would hit. To get down to the 20-50Hz where the bass lives, you'll either want to consider a sub (which can be annoying to buy and requires careful selection and pairing with your other speakers for good results- something that becomes doubly annoying when you're on a tight budget) or legit full-range speakers, which tend to be pricey when new. In that regard, I tend to go for vintage full-range first- as the value for dollar you'll get is better (for example, my circa-1980 HPM-900s will go down to about ~20Hz without breaking a sweat and cost me $250 for a pair via Craigslist. They are also enormous and weigh 50 pounds each). You've got 100 WPC to play with, so your selection is open to basically any speaker on the market. CanOfMDAmp posted:Coolest senior thesis project ever. I'd love to see a selectable/switchable preamp output. Most stereo receivers newer than 1980 have preamp outs that have to be physically bridged with their respective inputs (usually with little clip-like things) if you want to get sound out of the receivers themselves. If you connect something else to them (like, say- a tube headphone amp) your signal will only go through that pathway unless you unplug everything and re-bridge. You can only have one or the other. My CR-2040 has a 'record to' switch that lets you choose whether you want to send signal through the preamp outs or not without having to futz with cables- something that's fantastic but kinda useless to me since the headphone outputs on that receiver sound really drat good.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:38
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Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll keep an eye out for some vintage stuff then. The room I'll be using is medium size and is fairly well insulated so my neighbors shouldn't be an issue. I'm leaning towards not getting a sub now, I'd rather just hook up two speakers and be done with it. Here's a pic of where I'll be setting everything up. The turn table will go in the top with milk crates stacked behind it for storage of records. I plan on putting the speakers either on the floor or on the wall on either side.  Also found these. If these look good I'm hoping the guy will hold onto them until payday on Thursday. What do you think? http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/3980658001.html
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Aug 25, 2013 20:16
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I picked up some KG 4.5s last year and can vouch for their awesomeness.
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Aug 25, 2013 21:51
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Here you go, Polk Monitor 7's, one of the best speakers from the 70's. http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/ele/4011445462.html http://www.polkaudio.com/products/monitor7 If you could get this guy down to your price range, they'd work great for your situation. I'm using a set right now for my comp> DAC> Pioneer sx-450 receiver and they fill my bedroom no problem. http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/3874237815.html http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2/details#specs Another http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/ele/4022399065.html http://www.klipsch.com/ksf-8-5-floorstanding-speaker/details#specs Those Pioneer CS speakers aren't exactly one of their best moments. Actually, there aren't too many Pioneer speakers that couldn't be outperformed by a similar or lower priced model by a different brand except maybe the HPM series and you're going to pay $$ for them since they're serious collector items. The early 70's CS-99 and 66's aren't too bad, but they tend to have inflated prices too. edit I know these are out of your price range, but I'm throwing them out since they're awesome and I'm an SDA fan and if they were close to me I'd jump on them. SDA's do amazing things with imaging and soundstage. You'd have to make sure your amp was common ground before you hooked them up first. http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/3966774887.html http://www.polkaudio.com/products/sdacrs edit Holy poo poo http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/3974975950.html Realistic MC 1200 $20 http://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/html/1981/h027.html Decent newer speakers http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/3967039084.html http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ele/4001244961.html Retarted Pimple fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Aug 25, 2013 |
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Aug 25, 2013 22:14
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