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Saliciouscrumb posted:Can anyone savvy with multiple monitor setup help me out? The answers I get from googling this seems to be split 50/50. Yes, you can enable your integrated graphics and use it for another monitor. Onboard graphics are perfectly fine for browsing the web, playing videos, and other 2D tasks. It should have no effect on your performance unless you try to play 3D games on the monitor connected to the onboard graphics.
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Aug 25, 2013 06:28
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Hey, I've been looking to upgrade my computer, mainly for gaming. My problem is that I don't want to necessarily buy all new parts, and I'm not sure which parts excactly are the bottlenecks. I have an AMD Phenom2 965 4x3.6ghz for cpu and an ATI 4870HD for graphics. I'm pretty sure the card needs to go but what about the cpu? Is there some way I can check if its still powerful enough for the near future (~year) or if it needs to be replaced too?
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Aug 25, 2013 20:17
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az posted:Hey, I've been looking to upgrade my computer, mainly for gaming. My problem is that I don't want to necessarily buy all new parts, and I'm not sure which parts excactly are the bottlenecks. If you can deal with the CPU this year, you could probably make it stretch to next year, but both it and the graphics card are bottlenecks. Buying all new parts is basically what you need to do to upgrade.
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Aug 25, 2013 20:23
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I have my new PC, with a MSI motherboard and a GeForce 650Ti Boost hooked to my monitor and my TV, I switch to the TV when I want to play games, and it's been working great. Starting last night though, the bios seems to think the TV is the primary, it displays the bios setup screen and stuff there, and the first part of Windows 8's loading screen, and then once the desktop comes up, switches back to the monitor. Any idea why it is doing this (and why it started just last night) and how to stop it?
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Aug 25, 2013 20:48
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I didn't see a speakers / audio thread, any recomendations on a sub-$100 5.1 system? My current 2.1 Logitech speakers are at *least* 5 years old, maybe even older and they're crackling all the time and buzzing loudly. If possible, I'd love wireless, but wires aren't a deal breaker by any means. the only wireless 5.1 system on NewEgg's site was $300+. I was looking at these on Amazon here for $72.
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Aug 25, 2013 21:32
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This is probably very simple but how does a UPS notify everything plugged into it to shut down? I see a single USB but what about everything else plugged in?
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Aug 26, 2013 02:40
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Sab669 posted:I didn't see a speakers / audio thread, any recomendations on a sub-$100 5.1 system? My current 2.1 Logitech speakers are at *least* 5 years old, maybe even older and they're crackling all the time and buzzing loudly. If possible, I'd love wireless, but wires aren't a deal breaker by any means. the only wireless 5.1 system on NewEgg's site was $300+. I was looking at these on Amazon here for $72. Nice 5.1 systems are expensive. That set you linked is probably fine for being under $100, but it'll basically sound like a bunch of cheap speakers. Do you absolutely have to have surround sound? You would get much better sound quality out of a nice 2.0 system. You can usually pick up some M-Audio AV40's on sale for about $120.
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Aug 26, 2013 02:45
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No, don't *need* 5.1 at all, just a heavy gamer, watch movies / TV shows on my computer primarily and of course music. Open to suggestions either way
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Aug 26, 2013 02:48
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sellouts posted:This is probably very simple but how does a UPS notify everything plugged into it to shut down? I see a single USB but what about everything else plugged in? Basic ones just report mains-or-battery and what battery level is. Software on the PC, usually part of the OS, takes it from there, like on a laptop. More advanced UPSes can deliver a lot more information. Of course, without a separate data line to the PC (most people will see USB, but server/corporate stuff can come with RS232 (standard) or something proprietary (bullshit)), the UPS won't be telling it a drat thing. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 03:03
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sellouts posted:This is probably very simple but how does a UPS notify everything plugged into it to shut down? I see a single USB but what about everything else plugged in?
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Aug 26, 2013 03:07
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Thanks, that makes sense. It's for a (very small) network rack that would have a few OSX and linux servers and a NAS on it. I suppose I could script something on the connected computer, but wasn't sure if there was a protocol or something sent over the network that would do it.
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Aug 26, 2013 04:20
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Maybe related to my previous question, but my keyboard doesn't seem to be working in bios (delete should open the bios menu and F11 should open the boot menu but neither do anything). This worked a few weeks ago when I last needed to mess with this stuff, any idea what could have caused it to change?
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Aug 26, 2013 07:34
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Samurai Sanders posted:Maybe related to my previous question, but my keyboard doesn't seem to be working in bios (delete should open the bios menu and F11 should open the boot menu but neither do anything). This worked a few weeks ago when I last needed to mess with this stuff, any idea what could have caused it to change? edit: Sorry, meant to write that you should see if you can borrow a PS/2 keyboard to access the BIOS, but the post below your's covered it. VVV future ghost fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 07:48
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LCD Deathpanel posted:Try a different USB port. You may have the keyboard connected to one using a non-onboard USB controller and it may not be working outside of windows. Also check the BIOS to make sure legacy USB/keyboard options are enabled or set to auto. edit: this is my first new desktop PC in quite a while, are there ways nowadays to access bios settings from inside Windows? edit: and I should have said from the beginning that this is all attempts to troubleshoot the fact that one of my two SSDs (thankfully not my system drive) has intermittently not been appearing to windows, or windows's partition manager. I checked the drive itself using Crystaldiskinfo as someone recommended, it reported no problems. My computer is rebelling against me like crazy these last few days and without being able to access the bios settings I'm pretty hamstrung. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Aug 26, 2013 |
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Aug 26, 2013 07:49
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Samurai Sanders posted:I've tried every USB port I have. And how am I supposed to check the bios when as I said, I cant access the bios menus? You could try to reset the BIOS options with the jumper and see if that fixes anything. You could also try to find someone who will let you borrow a PS/2 keyboard and see if that works.
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Aug 26, 2013 14:26
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I'm not sure this is the right thread, but my friend has a problem getting her Sony Bravia KDL-32R423A to work with her Lenovo ThinkPad Edge E-335 through HDMI on Win8 64-bit. The TV simply doesn't show up in the monitor list. She has the newest graphics drivers and I can't seem to find a driver for the TV anywhere on Sony's site. Any ideas?
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Aug 27, 2013 14:02
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SplitSoul posted:I'm not sure this is the right thread, but my friend has a problem getting her Sony Bravia KDL-32R423A to work with her Lenovo ThinkPad Edge E-335 through HDMI on Win8 64-bit. The TV simply doesn't show up in the monitor list. She has the newest graphics drivers and I can't seem to find a driver for the TV anywhere on Sony's site. Any ideas? What happens if you hit Win-P with it plugged in, and select "Duplicate" or "Extend?"
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Aug 27, 2013 14:23
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Space Gopher posted:What happens if you hit Win-P with it plugged in, and select "Duplicate" or "Extend?" I can only choose the laptop or the VGA monitor she has connected. I tried unplugging the monitor, but it makes no difference. Also tried both HDMI ports on the TV. AMD control panel can't find it, either. The TV simply isn't being detected.
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Aug 27, 2013 14:28
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SplitSoul posted:I'm not sure this is the right thread, but my friend has a problem getting her Sony Bravia KDL-32R423A to work with her Lenovo ThinkPad Edge E-335 through HDMI on Win8 64-bit. The TV simply doesn't show up in the monitor list. She has the newest graphics drivers and I can't seem to find a driver for the TV anywhere on Sony's site. Any ideas? This is a stupid question and I'm sorry. Have you tried a different HDMI cable? Can you confirm the one you're using works?
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Aug 27, 2013 15:03
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JohnnyCanuck posted:This is a stupid question and I'm sorry. I haven't yet, that was going to be my next move, I just wanted to see if there was anything else I could try in the meantime or something obvious I had missed. This is also my first experience with Win8 (hate it already), some things might've changed.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:09
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SplitSoul posted:I can only choose the laptop or the VGA monitor she has connected. I tried unplugging the monitor, but it makes no difference. Also tried both HDMI ports on the TV. AMD control panel can't find it, either. The TV simply isn't being detected. The video chipset on that system can only handle two displays at once. And, VGA wasn't ever really designed for hot plugging, so it's sometimes weird about detecting when it's been unplugged. I'd bet your problem is related to the VGA monitor - try unplugging it, using win-P to switch to "PC Screen Only," plugging in the TV, and using win-P to switch to "Extend" or "Duplicate."
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Aug 27, 2013 15:11
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SplitSoul posted:I haven't yet, that was going to be my next move, I just wanted to see if there was anything else I could try in the meantime or something obvious I had missed. This is also my first experience with Win8 (hate it already), some things might've changed. Are duplicate and extend in the win8 video-out sidebar menu greyed out, or not there, or what? Have you tried loving around with refresh rates and resolutions?
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Aug 27, 2013 15:13
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I tried unplugging the external monitor, even though the laptop display was disabled, and restarted. No dice. Also tried every available combination of resolution and refresh rate. Also nothing. There's no firmware update for the TV available and all drivers are up-to-date on the Lenovo. What else is there to try if a different cable has the same issue?
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Aug 27, 2013 15:35
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SplitSoul posted:I tried unplugging the external monitor, even though the laptop display was disabled, and restarted. No dice. Also tried every available combination of resolution and refresh rate. Also nothing. A different HDMI display/TV, to see if it works with that.
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Aug 27, 2013 16:31
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JohnnyCanuck posted:A different HDMI display/TV, to see if it works with that. I'll bring it home and see if it works with my computer and TV. It's one of those cables with ethernet, so it might be a compatibility issue, I don't know.
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Aug 27, 2013 17:00
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sellouts posted:Thanks, that makes sense. It's for a (very small) network rack that would have a few OSX and linux servers and a NAS on it. I suppose I could script something on the connected computer, but wasn't sure if there was a protocol or something sent over the network that would do it. Typically your UPS has an ethernet jack that you plug into your network that sends out a shutdown command to servers configured with a listener agent. For example, APC makes UPSes with network management cards on them that allow remote monitoring and configuration of the device. In addition you can install agent software (PowerChute Network Shutdown) on your various servers that listen for a shutdown command issued from the UPS via the management card when a specific battery time has been reached. This way all of your servers connected to this UPS can be shut down gracefully on a power event when none of them are directly connected to it via USB. note: your $200 UPS probably doesn't have remote shutdown capability and is designed for a single device or multiple devices that can handle a non-graceful shutdown (routers, WAPs, switches, etc)
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Aug 28, 2013 00:38
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How long does thermal compound stay good in the tube? I'm going to have to apply new compound with my new system, and I'd rather not buy new if I didn't have to, but it's been a couple of years since the last time I used it.
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Aug 28, 2013 01:02
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I have an Ethernet cable run through my wall and I need to connect two computers to it. Will an Ethernet splitter work, not trying to spend 60$+ on a decent router.
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Aug 28, 2013 01:15
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goodness posted:I have an Ethernet cable run through my wall and I need to connect two computers to it. Will an Ethernet splitter work, not trying to spend 60$+ on a decent router.
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Aug 28, 2013 01:26
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Ok how would I go about setting it up with the splitters? A splitter on the end with the router, and 2 cables going from that to the router?
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Aug 28, 2013 01:44
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goodness posted:Ok how would I go about setting it up with the splitters? A splitter on the end with the router, and 2 cables going from that to the router?
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Aug 28, 2013 01:45
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Dirt cheap like 10-15$? Will they have them at Walmart do you think? And with a switch, I will be able to be connected on both computers at the same time?
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Aug 28, 2013 01:50
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goodness posted:Dirt cheap like 10-15$? Will they have them at Walmart do you think? And with a switch, I will be able to be connected on both computers at the same time? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704042 That is the exact switch I have (two of them infact) and I'm sure the cheaper ones work too. I think that was the cheapest gigabit switch at the time when I bought it. You will be able to hook 5 things to it (The router and two other devices) so yes, both computers will work on it.... Unless you don't have a router. You need a router to hook up two computers to the internet, unless you're paying for multiple IPs (most ISPs only give one public IP to residential customers)... You do have a router, right?
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Aug 28, 2013 02:03
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Yes. The router is downstairs about 50 ft away. The Ethernet runs through the wall up to my room. I can plug the Ethernet switch in in my room and then plug the computers into it?
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Aug 28, 2013 02:06
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goodness posted:Yes. The router is downstairs about 50 ft away. The Ethernet runs through the wall up to my room. I can plug the Ethernet switch in in my room and then plug the computers into it? Yes you can.
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Aug 28, 2013 02:17
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Awesome, thanks for the help. Will update with success in an hour hopefully! Edit: well they did not have splitters or switches so I had to get a wireless USB [the options weren't great for that either]. Will probably return it in a couple days and go to frys. goodness fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Aug 28, 2013 |
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Aug 28, 2013 02:23
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:How long does thermal compound stay good in the tube?
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Aug 28, 2013 07:42
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LCD Deathpanel posted:As long as it has stayed sealed and away from heat/direct sunlight it should still be good to use.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:25
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What's the best way to get a USB cable to go to about 30-40ft? I understand there's signal degradation at anything over 5ft, and I saw either powered extenders or a USB to ethernet to USB converters as options, but I have no experience with either. I plan on using a keyboard and mouse over a distance to my desktop, which is displaying to a TV over HDMI back into the living room. My biggest concern is that I'll want to game on it, so response time will be critical. I'd prefer not to buy a wireless KB/M if possible as well, but I could if that's the most reliable way to go. Physically, there's only about 20 feet for so of open space, I'm just running the wires along the ceiling to make it neater, hence the absurd length of the cord.
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Aug 29, 2013 17:00
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Takkaryx posted:What's the best way to get a USB cable to go to about 30-40ft?
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Aug 29, 2013 17:12
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