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So what is the general opinion on the wr250x? I'm about to sell my blast and I'd like to get a supermoto. I like the idea of the fuel injection, and newer chassis, which is why I'm looking at the wr250x instead of a drz.
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Aug 24, 2013 01:45
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:24 |
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I bought one as my first bike this summer and love it. They're a bit down on power compared to the DRZ and the top end doesn't make them great for highway riding, but then you probably aren't looking at supermotos to ride on the highway. You should be able to find them for around 3,000-3,500 and the only real issue to look out for is a fuel pump problem in the first model year or two (08s). The maintenance intervals are generous (the first valve check is recommended at 24,000 miles). There's good aftermarket support and they've been out long enough that any known issues should have cropped up by now. So all in all I would heartily recommend one.
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Aug 24, 2013 02:25
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The fuel injection will really be the only thing that you notice in street riding. The chassis you wont notice. How much high speed riding do you plan to do? The aftermarket is out there for them, but the big power mods really arent, not compared to the DRZ anyway. Long story short, they're great bikes and very reliable. If you want to do a good amount of highway, or mod it to make more power, thats when you should pick the DRZ over the WR.
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Aug 24, 2013 05:29
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I got my Trail Tech Vapor fully installed and took it for a short ride today.  I'm not sure if I have it configured correctly or not, though. Does anyone know if the LC4 in the 625 SMC generates 1 spark pulse per revolution, or 1/2, or 2? I currently have the vapor set to one spark, and cruising at 65 in 5th gear I think I was turning about 4k RPM according to the tach. It just seems like idling at around 1500 RPM seems a bit high for a thumper. I looked briefly on my phone earlier, but I didn't find an answer for the LC4.
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Aug 25, 2013 00:34
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MetaJew posted:It just seems like idling at around 1500 RPM seems a bit high for a thumper. My LC4 690 idles in that range all the time. I seem to recall someone here explaining why that is, but as far as I know it's fine and dandy. I'm new to all this though so I may be very wrong 
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Aug 25, 2013 01:11
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MetaJew posted:I got my Trail Tech Vapor fully installed and took it for a short ride today. That seems about right across the board.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:29
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MetaJew posted:It just seems like idling at around 1500 RPM seems a bit high for a thumper. According to the official Yamaha service manual, my XT660 should idle somewhere between 1300 and 1500rpm. Similarly-sized thumper as your 625, so I'd say you're spot on.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:34
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Awesome. Thanks guys. Now, assuming I fixed my oil leak, it's track day time.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:40
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I noticed something odd yesterday on my WR250X and need some advice. I went out on a late night ride a couple of weeks ago and noticed on cold starts the header on my bike glows orange. I guess I only just noticed it because I never usually cold start it in a dark area. Is this normal? On cold starts the header will glow orange after about 30-45 seconds and stay orange until I take off. After I take it out riding and park and let it idle (engine already up to temp) the header does not glow any longer, even idling for 3-5 minutes. The bike has a K&N filter with an airbox mod, a FMF powerbomb header and pipe and a power commander. Other than the glowing header, the bike runs absolutely perfectly. I have never messed with the power commander, it was setup by the previous owner who talked on and on about how long it took him to find the right map to set the bike up with so I never hosed with it. He was a motocross racer who seemed like he knew what he was talking about so I never bothered looking into it. Besides, the bike is drat quick for a 250cc.
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Aug 26, 2013 10:51
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:header on my bike glows orange Not familiar with that pipe on that bike but if it's anything like the CRF I had it's normal. Thin material + high temps = glow on start That's how I knew mine was ready to go.
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Aug 26, 2013 12:53
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:I noticed something odd yesterday on my WR250X and need some advice. I went out on a late night ride a couple of weeks ago and noticed on cold starts the header on my bike glows orange. I wouldn't worry about it. It's difficult to tune for warmup, and pretty much not worth it for as little time as the bike should spend cold. What you want is the bike to come up to temp reasonably quickly without dying, and running normal while warm.
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Aug 26, 2013 18:00
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The fuel injection will really be the only thing that you notice in street riding. The chassis you wont notice. I would occasionally be riding on the freeway to work. However, I'm fine with not being in the fast lane and used to lower power from the blast. Most of the riding would be city speeds and 55 mph roads.
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Aug 27, 2013 04:46
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MetaJew posted:Awesome. Thanks guys. I appear to have a very small leak coming from the kickstarter/shifter shaft seal. I wonder if I'll still pass tech. 
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Aug 27, 2013 05:51
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Giblet Plus! posted:I would occasionally be riding on the freeway to work. However, I'm fine with not being in the fast lane and used to lower power from the blast. Most of the riding would be city speeds and 55 mph roads. FWIW, I'm a 250 lb + guy who regularly rides my wr250x over 80 kph on my commute. I know a lot of people say the wr is down on power, but it's still zippy enough to do anything you'll need it to do in the city or on the highway.
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Aug 27, 2013 06:06
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The wr250x ride quality and stability and feel on the highway are significantly better than the drz. It has less power but it feels safe and planted at all speeds. The drz was twitchy by comparison.
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Aug 27, 2013 07:17
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MetaJew posted:I'm not sure if I have it configured correctly or not, though. Does anyone know if the LC4 in the 625 SMC generates 1 spark pulse per revolution, or 1/2, or 2? I currently have the vapor set to one spark, and cruising at 65 in 5th gear I think I was turning about 4k RPM according to the tach. It just seems like idling at around 1500 RPM seems a bit high for a thumper. Shouldn't it be 1/2? Single cylinder four-strokes spark every two rotations. Slim Pickens fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 09:32
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Plenty of them are waste spark type systems. They just spark on every rotation, whether they need to or not. Its easier that way from a design standpoint, as then the ignition doesnt need to know what stroke the engine is on.
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Aug 27, 2013 14:18
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MetaJew posted:I appear to have a very small leak coming from the kickstarter/shifter shaft seal. I wonder if I'll still pass tech. IIRC you're in TX right? I think you're going to laugh when you go through tech. Especially on a sumo. They'll first look at you like you have 3 heads since everyone else is on a SS and then they're gonna wiggle your chain, pump your brake lever, make sure the throttle returns smoothly and send you on your way since you'll be in level 1. If you start racing then you'll have to safety wire all the bolts, get catch cans, etc but for now you'll be fine man. Put some silicone grease around the seal if you're really worried but I doubt that it puts out enough oil to notice let alone be a danger. That being said if you think in any way that it's going to put any oil droplets on the track please fix it so that you don't wreck yours and my friends bikes. Oil on the track (or coolant) causes so much havoc especially in level 1 where people aren't as well versed with what to do in those situations.
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Aug 27, 2013 15:38
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JP Money posted:IIRC you're in TX right? I think you're going to laugh when you go through tech. Especially on a sumo. They'll first look at you like you have 3 heads since everyone else is on a SS and then they're gonna wiggle your chain, pump your brake lever, make sure the throttle returns smoothly and send you on your way since you'll be in level 1. If you start racing then you'll have to safety wire all the bolts, get catch cans, etc but for now you'll be fine man. Put some silicone grease around the seal if you're really worried but I doubt that it puts out enough oil to notice let alone be a danger. That being said if you think in any way that it's going to put any oil droplets on the track please fix it so that you don't wreck yours and my friends bikes. Oil on the track (or coolant) causes so much havoc especially in level 1 where people aren't as well versed with what to do in those situations. It looks like it might be like one drop per night. I checked adv rider and supermotojunkie, and it sounds like I might be able to replace a v-seal and stuff some orings in there. If that doesn't fix it you have to split the case in which case I'll eventually sell it.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:47
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Slim Pickens posted:Shouldn't it be 1/2? Single cylinder four-strokes spark every two rotations. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Plenty of them are waste spark type systems. They just spark on every rotation, whether they need to or not. Its easier that way from a design standpoint, as then the ignition doesnt need to know what stroke the engine is on. I tried 1/2 and that doubled the RPM. I think it must be a waste spark system.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:54
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Bounce it off the rev limiter. If it says 17,000, it's too high.
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Aug 27, 2013 19:23
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I love Amazon. Got a new rear tire for 113. I had an S20 front laying around from my R6 that had a small nail in it. Gonna patch that up inside, throw a tube in there and enjoy making use of it  I'm glad I kept it around.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:15
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I had a DRZ oil change panic-attack tonight. I changed my oil, nothing out of the ordinary, but when I went to dump the spent oil into my oil-holder thingy, I noticed some large-ish (1mm wide or so) black chunks in it. Sticking my finger in the oil confirmed, large black chunks were in my oil, hard as rocks. I panicked, thought about what happens when the engine pops, do I send it to eddie, get an ebay motor, scrap the bike altogether? What do I do until then, never ride it further from home than I want to push it? How were those things in the motor in the first place? Did something let go? If not, how did they get in? What is wrong with the oiling system that the filter didnt catch them? gently caress. Then it hit me. After you drain the oil out of the frame, the last little bit of oil that comes out always gets into the top side of the skidplate, then runs down and drips out into the oil pan. Taking a bunch of tiny rocks with it. Thats what they were, tiny rocks washed out of the skid plate. DRZ owners beware for your own sanities sake.
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Aug 30, 2013 03:55
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:never ride it further from home than I want to push it? Pff! Roadside assistance is cheap.
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Aug 30, 2013 05:46
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took some photos of my sex machine last night 
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Aug 31, 2013 12:29
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:took some photos of my sex machine last night Needs more Rimtape, other than that, hot bike.
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Aug 31, 2013 13:20
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4/20 NEVER FORGET posted:took some photos of my sex machine last night Cute little motor.
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Sep 1, 2013 22:40
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So I got an FCR39MX for my DRZ, and it's showing up Saturday. What's the most recent fix for the accelerator pump? Is safety wire better than the "o-ring" mod?
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Sep 5, 2013 23:35
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Just kidding. I'd stick with the o-ring. It doesn't look difficult, just take off the AP cover. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/564571-fcr39-mx-o-ring-mod/ Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Sep 5, 2013 |
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Sep 5, 2013 23:38
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I went to the trouble of installing a stiffer acceleration pump spring rather than keeping the safety wire it came with. Don't do this, it's not even remotely worth it. An order of magnitude more frustrating than trying to get the boots back on the carb without loosening the subframe bolts.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:59
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Trying to pick out a main jet size from this install guide, I'm several hundred feet above sea level with 3x3 and a Yoshimura exhaust. Thinking 160 probably, at least for this season. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/562280-fcr-39mx-install-using-the-tt-kit/
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Sep 8, 2013 20:05
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I wanna put some slightly more street oriented tyres on my klx400, are there any disadvantages with leaving the stock 21" front, 18" rear rims on and getting rubber to fit compared with swapping the wheels for the 17"/17" excel rims? If I changed the wheel size I'd have to get an engineers certificate thanks to the regulations on doing anything to a vehicle in Australia which is a pain I'd rather avoid if possible.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:24
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Swapping to 17's allows you to run any of the best sportbike tires that come in 140/150/160 widths (whatever you prefer) so it opens a lot of possibilities. I have zero idea what tires are even offered in 18/21 but I'm betting they're more of the Distanzia type dual sport tires and not the sport oriented stuff. I've ran Pilot Powers, Bridgestone BT-016 Pro's, and now Bridgestone S20's. I liked the Pilot Powers most of all but they all perform really well (read: stick like hell). I wouldn't go to even Distanzia's after riding sport tires but I also do zero offroading. The first time you lean the bike way over doing a u-turn with no fear at all about them slipping out should convince you.
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Sep 9, 2013 02:23
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Yep, went looking and found that if you want street tyres your choices are 17" or 17". Also, I may be able to get away with changing the wheels without getting it certified, so I'm gonna trawl ebay for a set of wheels.
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Sep 9, 2013 02:42
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Ephphatha posted:Yep, went looking and found that if you want street tyres your choices are 17" or 17". Also, I may be able to get away with changing the wheels without getting it certified, so I'm gonna trawl ebay for a set of wheels. Do they actually check your tires sizes vs. what comes stock? That'd be pretty nuts. Keep in mind you can buy Excel (or Warp, etc.) rims and lace your stock hubs to new wheels for a not-insane amount of money. You can alternatively buy a set of DRZ excels which should fit (fact check me on this though, I don't know for sure but I'm pretty positive KLX400's are exact copies of DRZ's).
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Sep 9, 2013 02:53
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Ephphatha posted:Yep, went looking and found that if you want street tyres your choices are 17" or 17". Also, I may be able to get away with changing the wheels without getting it certified, so I'm gonna trawl ebay for a set of wheels. That's not true and you're looking at $1000 to get a set of 17s probably. There are all sorts of street oriented tires in your sizes that would be just fine for street stuff.
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Sep 9, 2013 03:56
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JP Money posted:Do they actually check your tires sizes vs. what comes stock? That'd be pretty nuts. Keep in mind you can buy Excel (or Warp, etc.) rims and lace your stock hubs to new wheels for a not-insane amount of money. Thankfully the regulations for motorcycles are less strict than for cars. Guidelines for alternative wheels and tyres (only applies to cars, I think) - "The outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle and not more than 15mm below the smallest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle." Guidelines for modifications to motorcycles - "On all wheels (including any side-car wheel), the tyre size must be suitable for the rim. Each tyre and rim must be strong enough to support the machine when it is fully loaded. Most major motor cycle tyre specialists can tell you the right tyre and rim for your machine and the appropriate tyre speed rating." And yeah, a set of DRZ400SM rims should fit without issue. n8r posted:That's not true and you're looking at $1000 to get a set of 17s probably. There are all sorts of street oriented tires in your sizes that would be just fine for street stuff. A bit of hyperbole on my part considering how limited the selection seems to be compared to 17s. I've found a few street oriented tires in 21/18 and I'll probably see if I can order in a set of Avon Distanzias. None of the local stores carry anything other than 17" tyres though which means I need to order them online and get them shipped out (probably not a major hassle, but I'm used to buying locally and not having to worry about fitting them myself). That said, there are a few complete SMs that pop up on the local classifieds being parted out for fairly cheap, so I should be able to get a set of used wheels for ~$500.
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Sep 9, 2013 05:05
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I had a revelation yesterday on my XT660X. I'd been using 5th at 80-90km/h since I got it, and it's always felt a bit 'off' doing it, not like I was lugging the engine, but it didn't feel ideal. Turns out 4th gear is a much better gear for those speeds. 5th gear is tall as gently caress, I guess to make up for not having a 6-speed gearbox. Now I feel like an idiot for not realizing it before, but I'd always thought 1-cylinder engines ran best at low revs, turns out you just need to rev the tits off them to make them behave. Funnily enough, it stopped dying on me once I adjusted the idle up from 1200 to about 1400 (like it says in the manual), too
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Sep 9, 2013 10:12
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FCR install on the DRZ went pretty good, should have checked the AP timing before buttoning it up though. Looks like that's gonna need a bit of adjustment as well as the fuel screw. There's a tiny stumble from the AP and the acceleration, while way better than the Mikuni ever was, isn't as brutal as I'd like.
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Sep 9, 2013 23:46
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| # ? May 11, 2024 06:24 |
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KozmoNaut posted:I'd always thought 1-cylinder engines ran best at low revs, turns out you just need to rev the tits off them to make them behave. Funnily enough, it stopped dying on me once I adjusted the idle up from 1200 to about 1400 (like it says in the manual), too It's all about engine design. There is nothing inherent in an engine configuration (v-twin, I4, boxer 6, thumper) that makes it "torquier" or "rev happier". A 600 thumper will, quite naturally, have a larger bore and stroke than a 600 i4. This means a heavier piston assy, a higher mean piston speed, and so on. Flywheels and crankshafts also have to be relatively heavier than on a better balanced engine. All this lends itself to a lower rpm register, which in itself means it's more economical to build a thumper with more torque down low then a high strung horsepower monster, but with enough time and money, you could theoretically make a 600 thumper that revs like an i4 600.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:40
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