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Rorac posted:A few days ago I put a new air filter in my van. (86 chevy van for anybody that cares) It was one of those where you remove the old airbox and it's a wire mesh with foam and such, shaped like a triangle. Took it out onto the freeway, and opened it up. All those words and no video to go with. For shame. 
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Aug 27, 2013 20:52
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It feels like it pulls a little harder than it did at or near WOT, but really, it's all about the noise now. That alone was worth it. My facial expression was probably literally this. 
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| # ? May 15, 2024 02:29 |
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Rorac posted:A few days ago I put a new air filter in my van. (86 chevy van for anybody that cares) It was one of those where you remove the old airbox and it's a wire mesh with foam and such, shaped like a triangle. Took it out onto the freeway, and opened it up. Those cone filters have a tendency to let in more dust than OEM filters, especially K&N oiled filters.
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Aug 27, 2013 20:54
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kastein posted:e2: Darchangel, do yourself a favor and run a tap through that manifold stud hole before you put it back in. Should be 3/8-16 UNC iirc. Nothing worse than a stud seizing itself in by the next time you have to pull it apart. Metric. Pulled the next bolt over out and matched it. '95 2.5L. I did put anti-sieze on both of them when they went in. Transmission and jack pissed me off Sunday evening, so I let the thing just sit there Monday evening -I hurt too much from 2 days solid of wrenching on various cars and things. Might attempt it again this evening.
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Aug 27, 2013 21:18
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Wait, WTF? It's METRIC? Fuckin' jeeps. I thought only the bellhousing bolts on the 2.5 were metric.
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Aug 27, 2013 21:25
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kastein posted:Wait, WTF? It's METRIC? Threads and diameter matched up with several bolts, including the 8.8 bolt I used, I had in my spare metric bolts stash. M10, fine thread. 1.25? 3/8-16 would be coarser, I think. I've got plenty of those leftover from various GMs I own/owned. Dangit, now you've got me worried about it. e: gently caress, the internet agrees with you. 3/8"-16 x 1.25" bolt, or a stud in that location, possibly with a fine thread on the end sticking out. I guess whatever metric I used is close enough to go in as far as I needed it to. Whelp, at least it's still up in the air and easy to get to. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 23:02
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Transmission is in. Still need to refill the oil (dumped most of it on the driveway until I discovered that a TH-350 tails haft plug fits the AX-5 just fine) and reinstall the crossmember. That's this evening. Put in the proper 3/8-16 bolt in the exhaust manifold, and yes, the threads are close enough for the first 1/2 - 3/8" to mistake M10-whatever for 3/8-16.
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Aug 28, 2013 20:42
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EightBit posted:Those cone filters have a tendency to let in more dust than OEM filters, especially K&N oiled filters. It's not a cone filter. It's one of these: 
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Aug 29, 2013 03:00
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Rorac posted:It's not a cone filter. It's one of these: It doesn't filter as well, either. But I still run one because even a drop-base round filter won't clear my hood with the intake manifold I have.
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Aug 29, 2013 04:22
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Finished off a storage/drawer system for the back of my mates landcruiser
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Aug 29, 2013 15:47
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That looks really nice. My dad had something like that for his (and now mine) 82 F-150, with bench seats built along the frame rails over the wheel wells. There was storage compartments in the voids that were really nice, and I hope to recreate them after restoration.
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Aug 29, 2013 15:50
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Its pretty well set up- undo the fridge with the 4 straps and it slides forward and behind it are the toolboxes and spare parts your not using very often, then theres a divider wall on that side, and you flip the rear seat forward and theres another pocket with first aid kit and wet weather gear. The drawer beside the fridge doesnt go full depth, it has another divider in it and the recovery gear sits behind the other rear seat. Then on top of the wheel arches you can shove bits and pieces like bags of tent pegs and gloves, and on the LH side beside the fridge a 20L water jerry slides in. Cost us $200 and took about 2 days to make too!
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Aug 29, 2013 16:48
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Finally got the transmission back in my Cherokee. Yay, working clutch! As an added bonus, found a missing bolt in the exhaust manifold and replaced it, which seems to have cured the slight exhaust tick it had, and for whatever reason, the vibration I had at ~73-4 MPH has disappeared. Either the old clutch was out of balance,or I got the driveshaft in 180-degrees from the way it was, and that fixed it. Either way, I'm happy. Thanks to the fresh pilot bearing, I can get it into gear at a stop now, too. Next up: not a damned thing. It's too hot here in TX to work on crap outside. Maybe next month.
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Aug 29, 2013 18:21
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I'm not sure why the FSM says to put the driveshaft in on the same splines it came out of, because the driveshaft itself (with the slip yoke) is balanced as an individual unit, as is the pinion yoke, so it really shouldn't matter how you reassembled it. That's more of an issue with two piece shafts with a slip joint in between, like the front XJ shaft, if you pop that slip joint apart it does have to be assembled the same way it came apart.
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Aug 29, 2013 21:35
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kastein posted:I'm not sure why the FSM says to put the driveshaft in on the same splines it came out of, because the driveshaft itself (with the slip yoke) is balanced as an individual unit, as is the pinion yoke, so it really shouldn't matter how you reassembled it. That's more of an issue with two piece shafts with a slip joint in between, like the front XJ shaft, if you pop that slip joint apart it does have to be assembled the same way it came apart. The amount of people that hold that rule like it's a tenet of their faith keeps it going. It doesn't appear to be aging out either; I have friends in their 20's that hold that superstition. I actually rotated my rear driveshaft 180 degrees to show one guy that it doesn't matter, and he still doesn't believe it 
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Aug 29, 2013 21:46
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There's no way I could have put the slip yoke back in the same way - I did not and never have tracked that on any driveshaft removal I've ever done, to no ill effect. My manual said something about marking, but I assumed it meant the differential end (you can tell how closely I read the manual...) I actually had the slip yoke in and out a couple of times to rotate the input shaft to line up the splines.
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Aug 29, 2013 22:05
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Ferremit posted:Its pretty well set up- undo the fridge with the 4 straps and it slides forward and behind it are the toolboxes and spare parts your not using very often, then theres a divider wall on that side, and you flip the rear seat forward and theres another pocket with first aid kit and wet weather gear. The drawer beside the fridge doesnt go full depth, it has another divider in it and the recovery gear sits behind the other rear seat. Then on top of the wheel arches you can shove bits and pieces like bags of tent pegs and gloves, and on the LH side beside the fridge a 20L water jerry slides in. A little jealous, or something. You get what you pay for. It looks really good. Still plenty of storage space above. Do you think you'd ever use a cargo barrier, or prefer the option of being able to fold down the back seats? What I did recently. Nothing really except put some fuel in the Niva. I figured it'd be getting low because of all the driving around town and over the next town. Only got 25L into it. Considering it's an engine based off an old as dirt design, carburettored with a carby past its use by date, and been ran cold most of the time with the choke on a fair way, and it's permanent AWD which doesn't help economy I'm impressed. It's probably the smaller engine + gearing that's been doing it. The Fairlane is geared for the highway. It's only about 300kg heavier but it's a pig around town. It doesn't like low speed driving and the auto loves to shift at about 50km/h which suddenly bumps up the speed by 5-10km/h. So I have to set cruise to force it to drive at town speeds evenly.
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Aug 29, 2013 22:10
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Full detailed the Volt this afternoon. I wasn't happy with the detail job the dealership did during PDI. It was clean, but the wax job they put on it looked as rushed as it probably was. They also left a couple of swirl marks/fine scratches that I was able to buff out nicely. The Allante' is staying remarkably clean as first car in the carport. I've been pretty religious about keeping it covered. The cover on the other hand, has become a favorite resting spot for Meow-Meow the neighborhood cat. Fortunately she stays in one spot, so it's fairly easy to clean up with a lint roller. Meow-Meow is the best squirrel/rodent control agent we've ever had, and is well enough known around the neighborhood that the real animal control folks don't mess with her.
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Aug 30, 2013 00:27
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General_Failure posted:A little jealous, or something. You get what you pay for. It looks really good. Still plenty of storage space above. Do you think you'd ever use a cargo barrier, or prefer the option of being able to fold down the back seats? we're keeping our eyes open for a 2nd hand half barrier that goes from the top of the drawers to the roof- I dont like the idea of a wagon without a barrier as its just inviting something to go through your head, but its handy not having one so you CAN put longer stuff in there. When it does get a half barrier, it will be set up for easy removal for that reason tho. We priced up a commercial one- anywhere from $1200-2400 for a drawer set for it!
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Aug 30, 2013 00:53
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Ferremit posted:we're keeping our eyes open for a 2nd hand half barrier that goes from the top of the drawers to the roof- I dont like the idea of a wagon without a barrier as its just inviting something to go through your head, but its handy not having one so you CAN put longer stuff in there. When it does get a half barrier, it will be set up for easy removal for that reason tho. Yep the prices sting. The material aren't cheap but there's a massive markup. Today I jump started the Fairlane. It's battery was so dead it couldn't even work the central locking motor. It's only been about a week since I drove it last. I also decided that the Niva's radiator is probably roached. The VW (EA81 motor, JE(?) Camira radiator, 1x10" Davies Craig thermo fan) can pull the temperature down from the trigger point while the engine is idling in under a minute. The Niva with 2x OE 10" thermos from possibly Pajeros (essentially the same as the Davies Craig fans. I suspect they are the manufacturer) just can't seem to drag the temperature down in any time period I'm willing to wait for. Plus the air coming through is warm. On the VW it's bloody hot. The heater works fine and the top rad hose gets hot so I have doubts about it being the water pump. I have to decide whether to get my leaky rad resto'd, replaced or just upgrade the cooling system to a pressurized header tank system and a better rad.
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Aug 30, 2013 02:25
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Replaced my passenger window regulator and found out how amazing Stoner's Invisible Glass is. I was planning on wash/claybar/wax tomorrow morning but now it's supposed to be scattered thunderstorms Mon/Tues/Wed. Say gently caress it and wash anyway, or hold off.. hrmm. edit: Washed/waxed today. 
Pivit fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 22:57
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I treated the Niva like I hated it because my temper has gone to poo poo with this stupid virus thing. It can spin its wheels on road. Also I've commented about how I don't really like the engine noise but holy poo poo it sounds angry at 5k.
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Aug 31, 2013 23:28
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My steelies were a bit janky, so I cleaned, primed, and painted them gloss red. Also experimented with painting the lettering on my fancy-rear end JDM tyres.
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Sep 1, 2013 15:28
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I changed the oil and (most) of the filters. I changed the egg for the first time in probably 10 months. the old one weighed like 4lbs so i decided to crack it open and it was completely full.   let this be a lesson, change your egg regularly. I put all the gunk into a bottle, i have a theory that while having the rough consistency of crumbly rubber, that it is actually a liquid, this is going to a long term experiment.  I really don't understand why these are cheaper than the air filters for my pickup, it's over 2 feet long and over a foot around 
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Sep 1, 2013 23:34
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Powershift posted:let this be a lesson, change your egg regularly. I put all the gunk into a bottle, i have a theory that while having the rough consistency of crumbly rubber, that it is actually a liquid, this is going to a long term experiment. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitch_drop_experiment
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Sep 2, 2013 00:24
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Went to drive the winter car up and down the street to get rid of the rust starting on the rotors and came out to find a dead battery. Its charging now but I should've checked that before I moved my license plates over. Then I drove the mustang around in the wet but didnt have any fun because I had some coffee in the cup holder. 
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Sep 2, 2013 00:28
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Powershift posted:I changed the oil and (most) of the filters. I changed the egg for the first time in probably 10 months. the old one weighed like 4lbs so i decided to crack it open and it was completely full. 1. I recommend you send a chunk of that to Blackstone.  2. I bet they're cheaper because truckers actually change their air filters, while most people with pickups don't.
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Sep 2, 2013 01:47
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It's still a massive chunk of material for 20 bucks. Also, of course truckers change their air filters, that's totally a thing that happens. (not mine):  
Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Sep 2, 2013 02:34
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Powershift posted:It's still a massive chunk of material for 20 bucks. Hey, i empty half a can of filter oil on my K&N every couple years.
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Sep 2, 2013 03:16
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Hopped out to find another dead battery in the International. This time I got the alternator checked and yes, it was dead. Ordered a new one and cursed myself for not doing it in the first place. The whole thing pops off in 5 minutes, 6 if I grabbed the wrong wrench the first time. Then did an oil change on the Saturn, overall a lot less than I hoped. I've decided not to do any more auto work in the street when I have a perfectly fine garage.
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Sep 2, 2013 03:20
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Plasti-Dip is awesome:  Also, Black should be an option from the factory.
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Sep 2, 2013 05:31
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Poisonlizard posted:Plasti-Dip is awesome: Matte clear plastidip is your friend. 
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Sep 2, 2013 05:42
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Powershift posted:Matte clear plastidip is your friend.
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Sep 2, 2013 06:01
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I'm not a fan of matte black wheels, but holy poo poo, that clear matte looks amazing!
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Sep 2, 2013 06:10
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Powershift posted:Matte clear plastidip is your friend. drat you, now I have to do this too. It looks awesome.
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Sep 2, 2013 20:10
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Reminds me of the BMW frozen paint
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Sep 2, 2013 20:14
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Installed some mudflaps. They look cool, and hopefully knock down the rate of rock chip acquisition.
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Sep 2, 2013 22:14
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New ignition switch, new-to-me battery, then tuned up the carb a little and drove it around for an hour to charge the battery back up. drat thing turns on a dime, think it's around a 3-4 foot turning radius.  gently caress the haters, I think I'll take it to the bar this weekend
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Sep 2, 2013 23:33
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Kastein, I see that my FB status upset you.
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Sep 2, 2013 23:44
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Today I put seafoam into an '89 525i that I got a couple weeks ago just because who knows. No white smoke came out after a couple hours on the expressway.
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Sep 2, 2013 23:52
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| # ? May 15, 2024 02:29 |
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Kastein, I see that my FB status upset you. I aint even mad Come hit the bars with me and you can ride back on the implement attachment 
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Sep 3, 2013 00:45
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