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NitroSpazzz posted:
Are you flashing the 9XR with opentx? I did mine the other week and am really happy with it.
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Aug 27, 2013 00:35
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mashed_penguin posted:Are you flashing the 9XR with opentx? I did mine the other week and am really happy with it. Hadn't planned on it but I may look into it. Need to see what features is offers or opens up versus the software that comes on it.
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Aug 27, 2013 12:06
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NitroSpazzz posted:Hadn't planned on it but I may look into it. Need to see what features is offers or opens up versus the software that comes on it. Its mostly more polished with some bug fixes. But the biggest advantage is that you can hook the radio up to your PC and set up models on the computer and copy them to the radio which is much faster than using the radios menus. You just need a usbasp programmer which costs about $5 on ebay. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USBASP-USBIS...2343fe9a&_uhb=1
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Aug 27, 2013 15:21
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How is that different from ER9x and eepe?
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Aug 27, 2013 16:18
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CrazyLittle posted:How is that different from ER9x and eepe? Eepe is almost identical to Companion9X. I loaded ER9X onto mine and while some stuff is easier, I miss other stuff and plan on loading openTx onto it. (I have it set up using Companion9X anyway). Being able to program your stuff on the PC makes life soo much easier, especially helicopters.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:09
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:My MQX body is beyond trashed, so I run a solo cup body. Problem either solved or made worse depending on your opinion. I think a solo cup is a lot better looking than that stock.. 1970's sci-fi looking body.
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Aug 27, 2013 20:31
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What is the complexity of a tricopter build? It looks pretty simple to build one so long as you keep the center of gravity close to the center of lift. The other question is: would 3 geared up VEX motors be enough to lift a relatively small tricopter? I haven't been able to get much luck from Google, so I'm beginning to think not. dromer fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Aug 28, 2013 |
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Aug 28, 2013 01:31
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I'm 100% new to R/C and have always wanted to get into flying planes but just never did. Now that I have a son and he's of the age that he LOVES anything airplanes I'd really like to look into it. I've searched the thread a bit to see if anyone had posted this sort of info but I wasn't able to find anything. So what's the go to starter cheap get out and fly with my son in my clear 1-1.5 acre front yard that's surrounded by trees on the perimeter?
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Aug 29, 2013 16:20
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rotaryfun posted:I'm 100% new to R/C and have always wanted to get into flying planes but just never did. Now that I have a son and he's of the age that he LOVES anything airplanes I'd really like to look into it. Check out the DIY foam board plane designs on http://flitetest.com That's probably the cheapest way to get into rc planes.
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Aug 29, 2013 16:38
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I have no idea what I'm looking for. I don't know what I need with respect to batteries? Controllers? Is there a beginners guide somewhere I can start?
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Aug 29, 2013 17:33
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rotaryfun posted:I have no idea what I'm looking for. I don't know what I need with respect to batteries? Controllers? Is there a beginners guide somewhere I can start? I only started 6 months or so ago and got a reasonably clear idea of the questions you need to ask..I'll try to put together a rough guide later. Start by looking at hobbyking.com You'll need: Transmitter(Controller/TX). Transmitter module (in some cases) (And if you end up buying the Turnigy 9XR) A lipo battery for the TX. A battery charge for multi-cell lipo batteries. If you go the Flitetest route (I recommend it), you'll need: Reciever(RX) Servos (2-4 depending on plane model) Speed controller (ESC) Motor Props Prop adapter You'll need a variety of battery plugs, possibly motor connectors, some heat shrink tubing, piano-wire, a hot-glue gun, velcro tape and a handful of other small things you forgot to think about and people didn't mention. With the Flitetest stuff, you can buy the 'power packs' from Lazertoys and they are reasonably good deals, but you'll still need a TX and a RX. You are probably still looking at ~$200 in start-up cost, even though it seems like it can be done cheaper.
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Aug 29, 2013 17:51
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Thanks a lot. That's really helpful. And a rough guide would be wonderful. I was figuring 150-200 to begin with so I'm glad to get some confirmation on that.quote:You'll need: I like what I'm seeing one the flitetest site and everyone seems to say it's a good idea so I'll go that route. Does that mean I'd need everything from the top list and bottom list or are they separate? Also, speed controller? lipo? I feel a lost in a lot of words.
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Aug 29, 2013 18:06
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rotaryfun posted:Thanks a lot. That's really helpful. And a rough guide would be wonderful. I was figuring 150-200 to begin with so I'm glad to get some confirmation on that. I'll spec out the top list with links later. The top list is your radio/controller. You can use it for multiple models. Speed controllers control the speed of your motor Lipos are Lithium Polymer batteries and are quite brilliant, but can also be very confusing if you are not familiar with batteries. This is a good guide: http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
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Aug 29, 2013 18:16
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rotaryfun posted:I'm 100% new to R/C ... fly with my son in my clear 1-1.5 acre front yard that's surrounded by trees on the perimeter... I have no idea what I'm looking for. If I were you, I'd get a small ready to fly (RTF) package similar to this one It's small, slow, forgiving and easily repaired. This way, you can be flying NOW while at the same time tackling the pretty steep learning curve of all the other stuff. Have fun 1st, then when you're ready to move onto something bigger / more challenging you'll have a good idea of what you want and need. You'll save $ and frustration. edit: I should point out that the transmitter in the example plane I posted it pretty much useless for anything other than that plane. However, you can use other BETTER transmitters to control the plane. Widdershins fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Aug 29, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 18:55
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Thanks for the that. I honestly came here looking for a ready to fly now plane but wasn't about to get discouraged. I'd still be interested in going the flitetest route though. Seems like they have some really neat bodies available. Would it be worth looking at picking up a separate transmitter with that kit even though it comes with one that works with it? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Aug 29, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 19:56
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rotaryfun posted:Thanks for the that. I honestly came here looking for a ready to fly now plane but wasn't about to get discouraged. I'd still be interested in going the flitetest route though. Seems like they have some really neat bodies available. Eventually it is worth it if you are going to buy more models. But if you only have the one rtf model I wouldn't bother. Decide if you like it enough to want to sell your
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Aug 29, 2013 20:06
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I would agree getting something ready to fly or nearly ready to fly for starting off is the way to go. Building your own plane and piecing together the electronics is fun but not something I would mess with if I was getting someone into the hobby. And a computer radio is nice but an overkill and another thing to mess with for a new pilot. I'd look at something like these *just two quick examples from Horizon -http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/apprentice-s-15e-rtf-with-safe-technology-EFL3100 -http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/glasair-sportsman-rtf-HBZ7600 Tower Hobbies has a few - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=AFA Better yet where are you located and have you checked for clubs in the area? When I started flying I went out to the local field, they had a trainer (big, slow, stable plane) setup on a buddy box (experienced pilot can take over control by releasing a switch) that they offered lessons on for $5 a tank of fuel or something cheap. Sure it's not flying in your yard right away but it's also not crashing a dozen times and walking away from the hobby discouraged. AMA, lists SOME fields - https://www.modelaircraft.org Craigslist can also be a good spot to find planes, equipment and clubs. Helps to know what you're looking at/for or have someone that does go along though. Keep in mind as well larger models handle wind a lot better than small ones. High wing models are more stable and easier to fly than low wing. Electric usually has higher upfront costs (vs nitro) but cheaper/cleaner/easier to run. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Aug 29, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 20:32
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NitroSpazzz posted:-http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/apprentice-s-15e-rtf-with-safe-technology-EFL3100 After looking at the first link RTF model I saw this on the site and was wondering if there was something I was missing that I wouldn't be getting with the champ. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/mini-super-cub-rtf-HBZ4800#t1 I did notice that these two RTF did not have ailerons. However the two linked here did. Should I really skip the $70-$90 and open up with a $250-$300 plane? They have ailerons and are bigger. Will I be limiting myself with the first linked RTF or the one that I linked?
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Aug 29, 2013 20:50
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Widdershins posted:If I were you, I'd get a small ready to fly (RTF) package similar to this one I would recommend this route as well. Just starting out, you dont know what kind of plane you want to build yet, nor do you (i'm assuming) really know how to build an R/C plane. Its not too tough, but starting at absolute ground zero can be daunting. Buy the Hobbyzone Champ, learn to fly it, learn to fix it, learn how it works, then move on to something else when you and your son are ready. I will say I'm jealous of you, I have a 20 toddler, and I cant wait till he gets interested in flying things!
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Aug 29, 2013 21:01
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rotaryfun posted:I did notice that these two RTF did not have ailerons. However the two linked here did. Should I really skip the $70-$90 and open up with a $250-$300 plane? They have ailerons and are bigger. Will I be limiting myself with the first linked RTF or the one that I linked? 4 channel is 1 harder than 3 channel  but really, you won't be missing anything starting off. Adding ailerons + rudder is just adding another layer of complexity starting off. If you go that route and get some type of computer radio, you could always turn them off for now. Should you spend 3 times as much? That's up to you, but you're going to crash and break something. That's a fact and it's part of the hobby... always. I strongly suggest you get something small starting out if you're going to be flying in the 1 to 1.5 acre front yard you mentioned. I flew my 1st plane (1 meter wingspan Cub) in the area the size of a couple of soccer fields. It felt like I was trying to fly in a shoebox when I was starting out.
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Aug 29, 2013 21:15
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Whatever plane you start with, you will break it. Maybe even on the first flight. The advantage of the flitetest stuff is that you will already know how to repair/rebuild it and it can be done very very cheaply. I smashed my BabyBlender last time out and it will cost me $3 to rebuild it. Further, if you go through the progression of FT swappables, you'll learn to build, fly and repair in a logical manner. http://www.flitetest.com/articles/nutball-scratch-build http://www.flitetest.com/articles/delta_wing http://www.flitetest.com/articles/FT_Flyer_Scratch_build They are designed to ease people into the hobby for a low cost and all the electronics can be re-used. Anyways: Start with the Controller/Transmitter: Turnigy 9XR http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31544__Turnigy_9XR_Transmitter_Mode_2_No_Module_.html Turnigy Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31315__Turnigy_9XR_Safety_Protected_11_1v_3s_2200mAh_1_5C_Transmitter_Pack.html TX module (Spektrum): http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24655__OrangeRX_DSMX_DSM2_2_4GHz_Transmitter_Module_Futaba_Compatible_.html Battery charger for Lipos. (You'll need this for the Turnigy TX battery and whatever plane you end up with anyway) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__5548__IMAX_B6_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_.html There are other brands of TX's that will cost 100's of $, but there's honestly very little need to spend that kind of money. With the 9XR you can connect almost any kind of module, whether you want to do parkflyers or long range FPV. Now, then you *will* also want to get one of these: http://dx.com/p/usb-2-0-almighty-flight-simulator-dongle-51480 And then download the appropriate RC sim. Sims are simply invaluable in learning how to fly RC. I got a pilots license and already knew how to fly, but the trick with RC, is getting used to using the right control input, regardless of the relative orientation of the plane. It is harder than it sounds and the sim is extremely helpful in developing those skills. Even you do go down the RTF route, I would still get a simulator. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 21:16
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ImplicitAssembler posted:... awesome list The list ImplicitAssembler posted contains awesome things. Good job.
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Aug 29, 2013 21:20
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Widdershins posted:The list ImplicitAssembler posted contains awesome things. Good job. Yeah, I was going to type something up but he pretty much nailed it in one.
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Aug 30, 2013 00:40
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Anyways: This is awesome! So a 9XR doesn't come with a transmitter module or it does and I'll just be swapping it out with another?
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Aug 30, 2013 03:26
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rotaryfun posted:This is awesome! The 9XR is just the controller. It does not come with a transmitter or receiver. You'll need to buy at least one transmitter and compatible receiver in order to get flying. The 9XR's predecessor, the Turingy 9x, does come with a transmitter module (that's wired-through internally) and receiver. In order to swap modules you'll have to do some soldering, or cut the stock transmitter's antenna. I'd prefer to get the 9XR simply because it comes with a programming header already.
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Aug 30, 2013 03:45
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The requirements for the plane are then roughly as follows: A receiver (RX). This is what receives the controls and turns it into control signals for the servos. If you get the TX and module mentioned above, you then need a matching RX. Each receiver has X-amount of channels, which is basically how many things it can control, but remember that the throttle will always take 1 channel. So, a four channel plane will typically have the following: 1: Throttle 2: Rudder 3: Aileron 4: Elevator If you then want flaps, retractable gear, etc, you'll need more. The motor these days is typically a brushless motor. Brushed electrical motors are outdated. Their ratings/sizing is still mostly a mystery to me, because there's no real uniform system. Some refer to the old nitro/gas sizing (usually fractions of cubic inch displacement), but the power-output AND rpm will vary wildly depending on design. Roughly you need to know the following: Kv : rpm per volt. A 1-cell battery is rated at 3.7 volt, so a 1000kv engine will give you 3700rpm. (Just to confuse matters, a fully charged battery is actually more like 4.2v per cell, but just ignore that for now). Max Watt (Many plane designs refer to watts for sizing) Max sustained and burst current (Amps): This is to get the right ESC!. Finally the overall weight of the engine is often also important and then there's shaft sizing, prop adapters,etc. Doesn't matter too much for flitetest stuff as you can just buy what they recommend. Now, between the motor and the RX you have the ESC. (Electronic Speed Controller). This does 2 things: -Connects to the battery and feeds power to the RX (and servos) -Controls the motor. (Brushless motors, if I understand it right, needs a series of pulses in order to work, but I could be completely wrong on this). These can be programmed in a variety of ways, but are mostly good to go out of the box (At least the turnigy ones from HK are). Also connected to the RX is the servos. These comes in a variety of sizes. Go with the HXT or Turnigy ones. They're cheap and fairly reliable. The other confusing thing is propellers. There's different designs, but primarily they're measured in diameter and pitch.
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Aug 30, 2013 08:01
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This is all awesome info. Maybe add it to the OP for people like me? I did look up my area on the link posted earlier for a club and looks like there is one right here in my town. Patuxent Aeromodelers http://paxaero.com/ I emailed the gentlemen linked to on the page and he told me they are very active and are actually having a precision aerobatic contest this weekend. Going to take my son out and see what I can learn/pickup. I'm really interested in the transmitter setup and going full forward with the flitetest builds but I think I'm still going to go ahead and pickup a RTF plane for me and my son to get our feet wet. Leaning toward the Mini Super Cub for 69.99. One because I like that it's bigger. I don't know anything about the hobby but being larger seems like a neater plane to fly. And two because it's cheaper. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go ahead and place the order for all the 9xr stuff as well. I knew I came to the right place.
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Aug 30, 2013 10:55
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Yay new batteries soldered up, wish these things would just come with Deans already on them. Need to pick up a heat gun or just burn through a couple lighters for the heat shrink. Should be doing initial setup and test flights on some new toys this weekend. Need to get a shot of the current fleet...for now here's some battery packs. 
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Aug 30, 2013 16:48
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One thing I still don't understand is what is the difference between two different motors of the same Kv rating but different size. Say a 2830 or a 3530. My current understanding is they will produce the same amount of power per volt but the larger motor will probably have a higher maximum voltage and better heat dispersion. If anyone can shed more light on that it would be great.
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Aug 30, 2013 17:25
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mashed_penguin posted:One thing I still don't understand is what is the difference between two different motors of the same Kv rating but different size. Say a 2830 or a 3530. My current understanding is they will produce the same amount of power per volt but the larger motor will probably have a higher maximum voltage and better heat dispersion. A bigger motor can produce more torque and will draw a higher current (A), but will run at the same RPM per volt (Kv). At least that's how I understand it 
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Aug 30, 2013 17:35
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NitroSpazzz posted:Yay new batteries soldered up, wish these things would just come with Deans already on them. Need to pick up a heat gun or just burn through a couple lighters for the heat shrink. I switched over to deans because ec3 connectors blow. Anyone else ever have that little spring tab on the male side pop up and out of the female connector as your putting it in.... giggity?
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Aug 30, 2013 17:36
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I'm looking to get everything together to start a flitetest build and I'm looking at the parts for the power pod. The suggested batteries are Turnigy 500mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack or Turnigy 500mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack What is the difference between the two? I see one is a 2S and the other a 3S. Also, does it matter which linkage stoppers I get? Suggested include Linkage Stoppers D1.8mm (10pcs) and Linkage Stopper "Speed Clevis" Also, here's a Google Doc Spreadsheet of everything I'm putting together. Does it all seem right? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Am6omgTpojZRdEZRclVqMDZwY3BkLXJjdVhUeE5KY0E&usp=sharing rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 18:03
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rotaryfun posted:I'm looking to get everything together to start a flitetest build and I'm looking at the parts for the power pod. 'S' refers to the amount of cells (ie voltage). Each cell is a nominal 3.7v, so say you hook that up to a 1000kv motor, a 2s will run it at 7400rpm and a 3s will run it at 11100rpm. I think you'll want a 3S. Linkage stoppers: Whichever are in stock, as they tend to go on backorder all the time! Post the list here before you press 'buy', as you will most likely also need: Bullet connectors (motor to ESC) Battery connector (ESC to battery) Some heat shrink tubing. Because I kept missing stuff, it took me 3 orders to get everything I needed when I built the first one:)
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Aug 30, 2013 18:19
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rotaryfun posted:Also, here's a Google Doc Spreadsheet of everything I'm putting together. Does it all seem right? I don't see an Orange Rx (to match the Orange Tx module) in your list. edit: you got the correct one now Widdershins fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 18:30
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You're right, I missed the RX. This seems to be the compatible counterpart correct? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28554__OrangeRx_R615_Spektrum_JR_DSM2_Compatible_6Ch_2_4Ghz_Receiver.html I should be able to get the "music wire" at any music shop right? How many batteries to people usually keep around? I was thinking I would just order 2 but is that going to be enough? Again here's my parts list. I think I'm ready to order. Anything stand out as not working with other parts or missing anything? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Am6omgTpojZRdEZRclVqMDZwY3BkLXJjdVhUeE5KY0E#gid=0 rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 18:35
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rotaryfun posted:You're right, I missed the RX. This seems to be the compatible counterpart correct? No, you'll get music wire at the local hobby shop or a well-supplied hardware store. Beware, the 2mm music wire I got for the landing gear was sprung steel and ruined 2 of my sidecutters and I had to resort to using my dremel to cut it. You'll also need: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9631 (To solder on to the ESC so you can connect the batteries) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42536__3_5mm_3_wire_Bullet_connector_for_motor_5pairs_bag_USA_warehouse_.html To connect your ESC to your motor. Your ESC is on backorder and might be outdated (and wont be restocked) Here's the updated version: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2168__TURNIGY_Basic_18A_v3_1_Speed_Controller.html It's also kinda bigger than it needs to be, but there's no real attractive 12A options and the extra 3-4 grams wont matter. You may also want to consider buying some wheels: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__598__594__Hardware_accessories_-Wheels.html (I don't have time to browse through, but some cheap foam wheels around 2.5" diameter would be about right).
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Aug 30, 2013 19:12
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rotaryfun posted:I should be able to get the "music wire" at any music shop right? I've spent a fair bit of time in music shops and I've never seen "music wire" in any of them. I would go with more batteries. By the looks of what you've listed, you can expect to get 6 to 8 min flight-time with each battery (full throttle). Can't tell exactly how long until you get yourself a watt meter. And while speaking of batteries, don't run them down till they stop. You'll ruin them (and possibly make them unstable and burn your house down)... a charging bag is cheap insurance. Your 9X has a timer on it. Set it conservatively and try not to fly after it let you know you're out of time. If you take care of your batteries they will last a long while.
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Aug 30, 2013 19:19
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Your ESC is on backorder and might be outdated (and wont be restocked) I was just going to post that both the ESC and motor are both backordered. Should I look at a different motor as well? There's the Turnigy Park300 Brushless Outrunner 1080kv and the Turnigy Park300 Brushless Outrunner 1600kv What would going to one or the other do to my setup? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 19:25
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rotaryfun posted:I was just going to post that both the ESC and motor are both backordered. Should I look at a different motor as well? Argh...at least there's some reasonable subs: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19034__Turnigy_Park300_Brushless_Outrunner_1600kv.html This will be more powerful (and justify your 18A ESC :P), but is otherwise very close. Regarding more batteries: You could, but don't get more than 4 in total. You'll most likely break something before you get through all of them .ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 30, 2013 |
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Aug 30, 2013 19:44
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Whelp, two orders placed. Couldn't order the servo's on the original order because they were coming from a different warehouse. So, now it's a waiting game and gotta pick up stuff from the local hobby store.
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Aug 30, 2013 20:03
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