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dis astranagant posted:What's a good way to secure about a 60 foot patch cable run along a ceiling without drilling any holes or driving a bunch of nails? I'm trying to get 2 bedrooms wired up on opposite ends of a lovely rental house. You best bet would probably some version of a 3M Command Hook. Amazon has a ton of them, take a look and see which type you think would work best.
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Aug 27, 2013 17:44
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I have an old WRT54GL running openwrt kamikaze. Recently a power surge took out the LAN port of both my cable modem and the WAN port of my router. I can connect to every other port and the router works fine, but connections through the WAN port just aren't seen. I had to replace my modem. Bizarrely, if I plug my new modem into one of the other LAN slots, I get a weird semi-connection; about 1 in 5 pings to 8.8.8.8 are completed, with normal latency. I was expecting it to either work or not. I'm positive that it's possible to connect this somehow through LAN and get a normal network connection, but I think it will have to be some configuration I've never used before. I'd really like to get wireless back without buying a new router, can someone point me the way? kaschei fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 27, 2013 |
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Aug 27, 2013 17:55
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dis astranagant posted:What's a good way to secure about a 60 foot patch cable run along a ceiling without drilling any holes or driving a bunch of nails? I'm trying to get 2 bedrooms wired up on opposite ends of a lovely rental house. Cable (rounded end) staple gun.
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Aug 27, 2013 22:27
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Sorry if this question gets asked a thousand times: what do you guys recommend for wifi signal boosters. That Securifi one looks neat and got a lot of good reviews on amazon.
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Aug 29, 2013 01:11
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This may seem like an odd request but here goes: What's the best bet for someone who wants an N router with WAN + 5 wired ports and doesn't want to spend a ton of money? Most of the stuff I see usually has 4 wired ports, so am I going to probably have to get a separate switch to expand my wired network? I'm currently rocking an old WRT54G with dd-wrt installed.
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Aug 29, 2013 02:57
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That's what I did, I bought a netgear n900 and for the extra wired computers, I just dropped a cheap-rear end gigabit switch between them. It works great, and the n900 is awesome (except it can't properly handle USB drives over 2TB, apparently.)
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Aug 29, 2013 03:00
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Alucard posted:This may seem like an odd request but here goes: Connect them LAN to LAN port. You lose 1 port from each but that's still 6 ports open rather than 4.
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Aug 29, 2013 03:03
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kaschei posted:You should be able to turn your old router into an overblown switch. I think all you have to do is turn off DHCP on the "switch" and make sure it uses a different IP from your new router. Fair enough, I can manage that. So what would be the best option to get a decently priced and featured Wireless N router then? I'd go by the OP, but it apparently hasn't been updated in almost a year. So my price point is probably sub $100, but also I am in an apartment where my needed range is probably less than 50 feet in any direction. Alucard fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Aug 29, 2013 |
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Aug 29, 2013 03:12
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Alucard posted:So what would be the best option to get a decently priced and featured Wireless N router then? I'd go by the OP, but it apparently hasn't been updated in almost a year. Depends on your price point, but as stated, I'm exceedingly pleased with my netgear n900 (a.k.a. WNDR4500). I get perfect signal all the way out to the back of my yard at my firepit and hammock by the forest (300' away and through the walls of the house), I don't notice any interference (my old wrt54gl was constantly dropping out), even the stock firmware is pretty great and feature-ful and easy to use.. Amazon has them priced at $160, but I swear I got mine closer to $100 (newegg appears to have refurbs for $100 even.) Bestbuy (shudder) appears to be selling them for $130, that's pretty good.
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Aug 29, 2013 03:38
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Should I just get an apple express? I'm looking to spend as little as possible without losing out on quality because like I said, I will be the only one using it. In Australia its $120. Go ahead and get one of those lovely TP-Link combo modem-routers on the site you linked. Specifically the TP-Link TD-W8960N looks fine and will suit your needs. Don't get an Apple Express, they're horrible poo poo and dont' support what you're trying to do. In general, we don't recommend combo devices because they get the lowest of the low chips for all the different functions and jam them into a single case. Our goon experience has been uniformly poor with these devices because we pick high-end routers and high end modem devices and then your connection will sing your praises as the modem does its modem stuff and the router handles packets like a champ. In your case, you're a cheap dork who isn't going to properly spend all their nights and weekends configuring and tweaking their home network setup. You're probably some disgusting sex-haver who talks to ladies and isn't even the least interested in whether your QoS setup is using PCQ queues or stochastic queues. gently caress you, buddy! Go and take your "I have a life and don't want to waste it loving around with a million devices" attitude and buy that loving TP-Link. While I'm carefully writing new packet tagging rules in my totally awesome MikroTik you'll be doing whatever it is that people do when they aren't elbows deep in their home network all the time. PS: no joke, the reviews for the TP-Link I listed above look good. It's cheap and should get you online with the least amount of hassle. Apparently TP-Link's customer service is poo poo so hopefully your ISP can help guide you through setup but it shouldn't be too tricky. Good luck.
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Aug 29, 2013 16:34
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kaschei posted:You should be able to turn your old router into an overblown switch. I think all you have to do is turn off DHCP on the "switch" and make sure it uses a different IP from your new router. If you run DD-WRT, you can use the WAN port as another lan port, so you only lose 1 port.
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Aug 29, 2013 17:20
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TLG James posted:If you run DD-WRT, you can use the WAN port as another lan port, so you only lose 1 port. Is it possible to do the reverse (use a LAN port as a WAN port)? Because that would fix my problem posted earlier this page.
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Aug 29, 2013 17:25
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I am moving to a FIOS area and will probably go for it over Comcast (Glen Allen/Henrico, VA). With a two year contract I get a free router. Is that thing the modem I need to connect to the service? I would prefer to use my Airport Extreme for home routing in either case, but if it is a modem/router, can I disable the routing and just use its modem functions?
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Aug 29, 2013 19:32
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Turnquiet posted:I am moving to a FIOS area and will probably go for it over Comcast (Glen Allen/Henrico, VA). With a two year contract I get a free router. Is that thing the modem I need to connect to the service? I would prefer to use my Airport Extreme for home routing in either case, but if it is a modem/router, can I disable the routing and just use its modem functions? The big question is if you are getting FiOS tv as well. The Actiontech acts as a MoCA bridge for the STBs as they are all IP enabled (that's how VoD works.) It's possible to cut the Actiontech out of the picture even in those cases, but it's always at a cost of increased complexity and reduced functionality.
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Aug 29, 2013 20:00
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http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077 I found this comprehensive FAQ on the subject
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Aug 29, 2013 20:48
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kstatix posted:Sorry if this question gets asked a thousand times: what do you guys recommend for wifi signal boosters. That Securifi one looks neat and got a lot of good reviews on amazon. Anyone? I looked in the last three pages and found nothing. I'm moving into a three story house tomorrow and want to get an idea on what to get. My modem/router will be on the first floor and I need the wifis to reach the top.
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Aug 30, 2013 01:09
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kaschei posted:Is it possible to do the reverse (use a LAN port as a WAN port)? Because that would fix my problem posted earlier this page. Yes, I believe you can do this, although you may need to dick around with the VLAN settings.
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Aug 30, 2013 01:15
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CuddleChunks posted:Go ahead and get one of those lovely TP-Link combo modem-routers on the site you linked. Specifically the TP-Link TD-W8960N looks fine and will suit your needs. More like 'I have more than a life than you not spending all day loving round with obscure router settings that I waste on playing league of legends/Battlefield and admiring my car all day'. At least I have girl-friends if not a girlfriend.  Actually my parents have a TP Link router and an oooold as gently caress motorola surfboard modem, and they have never had an issue that wasn't the ISP since they got it. My little Brother AFK farms Runescape while streaming music, hosting a teamspeak and playing league without any issue for anyone else in their house. This is on 30/1 cable though, and the worst thing anything else does in that house is my younger sister on facebook. I'll definitely check that router out, thanks for the reply!
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Aug 30, 2013 01:23
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I've been trying to catch up on the whole router thing, but I'm a bit out of date. Is the front page pretty accurate still? I have 4 room mates in a house with some lovely 2wire dsl b/g megabit router. We have a lot of streaming devices and the like we would like to run (apple tv [display mirroring], raspbmc [streaming off network drive], NAS that I use for movies and archiving pretty regularly, then just room mates who down load a lot). Would something in our price range work well for that sort of though put?
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Aug 30, 2013 01:40
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If anyone can make any suggestions that might help me with a problem, I'd be hugely grateful as I've been tearing my hair out for two days now on this. I have a small home network set up, using pfSense on 192.168.1.254 as a firewall / router / RADIUS server. I'm trying to add an Obihai obi202 VoIP adapter with no luck. If I plug it into the cable modem directly, it works with no problems (as far as I can tell in 2 minutes of testing). If I plug it into the pfSense router and turn on syslog on the Obi, I get this: 8/29/13 11:56:33.000 PM OBI[-1]: BASE:resolving root.pnn.obihai.com repeating over and over. The thing is, every other computer on my network can resolve the IP of this host. I even added it as a static DNS entry on the pfSense box, with no luck. I've tried changing DNS servers, etc., with no joy. Adding a firewall log on pfSense and sending that via syslog, I get this: (states table) udp 8.8.8.8:53 <- 192.168.2.250:36837 NO_TRAFFIC:SINGLE udp 192.168.2.250:36837 -> 8.8.8.8:53 SINGLE:NO_TRAFFIC (from Obi202) 8/29/13 11:55:53.000 PM OBI[-1]: BASE:resolving root.pnn.obihai.com (from pfSense) 8/29/13 11:55:53.000 PM 192.168.2.250.36837 > 8.8.8.8.53[-1]: 11189+ A? root.pnn.obihai.com. (37) 8/29/13 11:55:55.000 PM 192.168.2.250.42176 > 192.168.2.254.53[-1]: 11189+ A? root.pnn.obihai.com. (37) Am I missing something obvious? I've added a firewall rule on the interface I've put it on for testing (OPT1) to pass all traffic, with no change. I literally can't think of anything else to try - I've set up static ports, it's on a static IP, the firewall should be wide open for it... nothing. All the Obihai docs suggest is turning on DMZ mode, which pfSense doesn't have (as far as I can tell - it's flexible enough that you could probably simulate the DMZ mode of most home routers, but I can't figure out how right off).
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Aug 30, 2013 05:07
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I don't know how pfSense works, but I would find some way to open a terminal/ssh session and run "tcpdump -v -s0 host 192.168.1.254" and see what the VoIP thing is trying to do. It's possible it prints the log message for the next step after the next step completes, so you're not seeing where it's really hanging. tcpdump would at least show the network traffic in better detail. You might need to run ifconfig and figure out what interface pfSense considers "internal" and then add that interface name after the -v flag.
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Aug 30, 2013 05:56
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I'm about to set up a network in my new house, and I'm not sure what's a good wireless router. I want to connect a few wireless devices, a rasberry pi (which I think I want to do wired, not wireless), and I'm thinking of adding some kind of network storage in the near future. At the moment my devices connect to an old wireless-g router then to an adsl modem and then the internet, but my old router is struggling to work through two walls in a 120m^3 house. My new place is over 200m^3 and I mainly want to upgrade to something with better coverage, as there is likely to be more walls in between each device and the wireless router. I've been looking at some different models, but I'm having trouble finding out real world performance. I'm looking at the Linksys X2000, Netgear DGN2200 and the Linksys EA4500, although the EA4500 is a bit out of my price range (<= NZ$200).
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Aug 30, 2013 12:09
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kaschei posted:I have an old WRT54GL running openwrt kamikaze. https://forum.openwrt.org/viewtopic.php?id=16148 This forum post exactly describes your situation (even down to the cause).
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Aug 30, 2013 14:56
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Ok, so I need badly to redo the network in my apartment. I have ~21 devices before guests, and the wireless just doesn't work worth a poo poo. I had purchased an E3200 a few months ago, but it ran turd slow (compared to whatever $10 router my roommate had laying around) and after hanging on the phone for a few hours with Cisco trying wvery permutation of settings, they RMA'ed it. Of course this was during they Cisco spinoff so it just got refunded since all their stuff was out of stock indefintely. I switched to using an E2000 I got for $20 from a friend and it also runs like poo poo, albeit different poo poo. Whereas the E3200 was stable but slow, the E2000 is fast but unstable. Connections for all the wireless devices are spotty (as compared to, for instance, the apartment fitness center where we have perfect signal constantly on the same devices). So, I'd like to get this to the point where the network is something that just works instead of being a perpetual nuisance. Here's a list of my devices: 2x PS3 consoles 2x Xbox 360 consoles 1x Wii Console 3x Smartphones 3x Tablets 3x Notebook PCs 2x Desktop PCs 1x Raspberry Pi (XBMC) 1x PSP/Vita 2x Nintendo DS 1x AT&T Femtocell I've included a diagram below to show locations and distances.  I have a Zoom 5341J modem and it runs acceptably. I have ethernet lines run to each bedroom, but other than the Desktops in the bedrooms and the the Femtocell & Pi in the Living Room, everythng else is wifi. I don't feel strongly one way or another about dropping switches in the Living Room and Bedroom for the game consoles, but obviously it's not a cost I want to bear unneccessarily. Also, I'll live without the DSes having a connection if I have to, cause I assume they are G-only and not N. The apartment complex is predictably flooded on the 2.4ghz band, and the 5ghz band is starting to fill. Also, I'm no expert on which tablets (iPads and Fires) or Game systems (Wii/PS3/360/Vita) play well with 5ghz, but I assume the laptops/desktops can be beaten into using 5ghz, even if I have to replace cards. I just want something that can fire signal like a goddamn cannon down the ~50ft of distance from one end of the apartment to the other. I don't need fancy custom OSes or QoS/traffic shaping to my knowledge. So, that all said, what do I need to get? The OP seems a bit dated at this point as several recommendations are discontinued. I obviously would like a router/AP that gets the job done of: * Getting good signal to the 1100 sq ft of space I've got. * Compatibilty to all the consoles/tablets/phones would be super nice, compatibility to the legacy devices (DSes), nice but not a dealbreaker. * Guest AP for visitors nice, but not required. Also, if you guys think dropping switches would significantly help, which ones would you suggest? Obviously, gigE would be nice as the desktops/laptops are capable of it and it sure helps when streaming from a desktop to the Pi/PS3 with the other people in the apt doing stuff.
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Aug 30, 2013 17:38
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Move your goddamn router to the middle bedroom room so you're not trying to send a signal through 4 walls with who knows what on the inside and a refrigerator/microwave. You already have ethernet run, so you can get a $20 switch and put the consoles/pi/whatever in the living room on it. 100% odds the bedrooms already have cable jacks, so moving the router/modem is a non-issue.
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Aug 30, 2013 17:46
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evol262 posted:Move your goddamn router to the middle bedroom room so you're not trying to send a signal through 4 walls with who knows what on the inside and a refrigerator/microwave. You already have ethernet run, so you can get a $20 switch and put the consoles/pi/whatever in the living room on it. 100% odds the bedrooms already have cable jacks, so moving the router/modem is a non-issue. I'd considered it, but I really don't like the idea of having the modem/router in a room that I don't have full access to. Also, that room ia already super cramped.
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Aug 30, 2013 17:51
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How are you phyiscally setting this up - is OPT1 a VLAN or a physical NIC? Have you tried plugging another device in where you're plugging the Obi into? Alternatively, have you tried plugging it into the rest of your network (i.e. not in a DMZ) to see if it works there? I'd bet you still have some work to do on making OPT1 communicate with the rest of the world properly.
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Aug 30, 2013 18:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:How are you phyiscally setting this up - is OPT1 a VLAN or a physical NIC? Have you tried plugging another device in where you're plugging the Obi into? Alternatively, have you tried plugging it into the rest of your network (i.e. not in a DMZ) to see if it works there? I'd bet you still have some work to do on making OPT1 communicate with the rest of the world properly. OPT1 is a physical NIC. I started off with the Obi plugged into the rest of the network; I've used that port with my laptop, and normally it has an HP network inkjet on it. That didn't work, which is when I moved it to OPT1 so I could look into what it's doing a little better and try and open up all the ports. Here's some of what I get from tcpdump: 192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: UDP, length 46 08:02:52.369605 IP (tos 0x0, ttl 64, id 56712, offset 0, flags [DF], proto TCP (6), length 60) 192.168.2.250.51176 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: Flags [S], cksum 0xab48 (correct), seq 3735893403, win 5840, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 4294961171 ecr 0,nop,wscale 1], length 0 08:02:55.367670 IP (tos 0x0, ttl 64, id 56713, offset 0, flags [DF], proto TCP (6), length 60) 192.168.2.250.51176 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: Flags [S], cksum 0xaa1c (correct), seq 3735893403, win 5840, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 4294961471 ecr 0,nop,wscale 1], length 0 08:03:01.367428 IP (tos 0x0, ttl 64, id 56714, offset 0, flags [DF], proto TCP (6), length 60) 192.168.2.250.51176 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: Flags [S], cksum 0xa7c4 (correct), seq 3735893403, win 5840, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 4294962071 ecr 0,nop,wscale 1], length 0 The ec2-54....amzzonaws.com address is the same as root.pnn.obihai.com. I don't see any packets coming back from that address, and I don't see it being dropped at the firewall. Here's the OPT1 firewall rules: Proto: IPv4 TCP/UDP Source: * Port: * Destination: * Port: * Gateway: * So it should be passing everything. Maybe I'll try and block incoming packets from root.pnn.obihai.com and see if anything is getting stopped. I'm just wondering if NAT isn't working properly. Khelmar fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Aug 31, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 00:14
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I'll definitely check that router out, thanks for the reply!  No problem.
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Aug 31, 2013 00:48
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Try tcpdump-ing on the external interface and filtering for "host ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com" instead.
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Aug 31, 2013 00:48
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OK, this is super weird. I put in a rule to block all traffic from the root.pnn.obihai.com site, and nothing is getting blocked on the firewall. Where the hell are the packets going? I'm wondering if it's about this: pre:OBiTALK Service Status Parameter Name Value Status Acquiring Service;ex-addr=192.168.2.250:10000 Edit: pre:tcpdump: listening on em1, link-type EN10MB (Ethernet), capture size 96 bytes
20:03:55.828258 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 74)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: [udp sum ok] UDP, length 46
20:03:55.838242 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 106)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: UDP, length 78
20:03:57.828274 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 74)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: [udp sum ok] UDP, length 46
20:03:57.838132 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 106)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: UDP, length 78
20:04:01.828196 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 74)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: [udp sum ok] UDP, length 46
20:04:01.838315 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 106)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: UDP, length 78
20:04:02.329123 IP (tos 0x0, ttl 64, id 22200, offset 0, flags [DF], proto TCP (6), length 60)
192.168.2.250.53929 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: Flags [S], cksum 0x40e3 (correct), seq 4106226412, win 5840, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 23636 ecr 0,nop,wscale 1], length 0
20:04:03.328256 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 74)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: [udp sum ok] UDP, length 46
20:04:03.828072 IP (tos 0x68, ttl 64, id 0, offset 0, flags [DF], proto UDP (17), length 74)
192.168.2.250.10000 > ec2-54-241-160-4.us-west-1.compute.amazonaws.com.10000: [udp sum ok] UDP, length 46Khelmar fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Aug 31, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 00:49
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Khelmar posted:Is ex-addr external address? Is there a way to alter that to my external IP? I'm wondering if it's misrouting packets because of that, but it seems like everyone with a NAT would have the same problem. It's possible that first UDP connection attempt contains the IP the target should reply to, and then it falls back to TCP. But TCP should work fine through NAT, so I don't know why you're not seeing any responses to the following connection. Edit: Did you try forwarding the ports specified in the FAQ? TCP Ports: 6800, 5222, 5223 UDP Ports: 5060, 5061, 10000 to 11000, 16600 to 16998, 19305 Allow Incoming on UDP Port: 10000 Ninja Rope fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 31, 2013 |
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Aug 31, 2013 00:53
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Ninja Rope posted:Edit: Did you try forwarding the ports specified in the FAQ? Yup, at least as far as I can tell.  
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Aug 31, 2013 01:21
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Well the only one you're missing there is 5061, but from reading around it sounds like the only inbound open port you need is 10000, so maybe it doesn't matter. A lot of forum posts (like this one) mention it being a DNS issue. I'm not really sure how a DNS issue would cause this problem, but can you confirm the DNS settings on the Obi are correct, DNS is working, etc?
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Aug 31, 2013 01:31
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Sorry, that was based on what the Obihai reports in syslog, which looks like it's not accurate. DNS works on every other system I'm running, so unless it's getting blocked to the Obi specifically, it should be working. I also tried a firmware update, with no luck. I'm really, really lost at this point. Anyone know how to simulate the DMZ option of Linksys routers with pfSense?
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Aug 31, 2013 03:47
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Toshimo posted:I'd considered it, but I really don't like the idea of having the modem/router in a room that I don't have full access to. Also, that room ia already super cramped. Putting the router on the same wall as the desktop in the master bedroom should be a decent alternative, or in the linen closet just outside the 1/2 bath.
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Aug 31, 2013 13:31
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wanieldong posted:Putting the router on the same wall as the desktop in the master bedroom should be a decent alternative, or in the linen closet just outside the 1/2 bath. That doesn't buy me anything as all the same walls would be there, just in the opposite direction. Also, the master bedroom doesn't have a cable line. Which puts me back at square one. I need to find a replacement router as this one isn't even 100% with device in the same room.
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Aug 31, 2013 13:46
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Khelmar posted:I also tried a firmware update, with no luck. I'm really, really lost at this point. Anyone know how to simulate the DMZ option of Linksys routers with pfSense? I've never used a Linksys' DMZ before but some quick Googling says it's really just a matter of setting up an OPT interface that you want to use as DMZ, giving it a pass-any rule, and giving it rules to block it from the rest of the LAN (other than DNS, but if you run DHCP then it seems that you should be able to have a DNS inside the DMZ subnet). Are you having pfSense act as a DNS server or just passing the Google DNS IP to your clients? On the OPT1 side... why are you only allowing TCP/UDP traffic to any (but still blocking ICMP/etc)? Why not just open it up to all traffic types?
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Aug 31, 2013 16:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've never used a Linksys' DMZ before but some quick Googling says it's really just a matter of setting up an OPT interface that you want to use as DMZ, giving it a pass-any rule, and giving it rules to block it from the rest of the LAN (other than DNS, but if you run DHCP then it seems that you should be able to have a DNS inside the DMZ subnet). Are you having pfSense act as a DNS server or just passing the Google DNS IP to your clients? I've tried both using the pfSense as the DNS server and passing through other DNS servers (my ISPs and Google's). The other aspect of Linksys' DMZ is that it gives the external address to the DMZed host through DHCP, so the host can't tell it's not directly hooked up to the ISP. Don't ask me how, though. And I had just missed the traffic type selector - it defaults to TCP/UDP. I just changed it to any, with no change. On the pfSense message board, there's someone who's using an OBi100 who said it just worked, with no setting changes at all. I'm pretty confused at this point.
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Sep 1, 2013 00:41
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I have a potentially stupid question. Due to the layout of my house, the router has to be in the kitchen to broadcast to all devices, which means it is isolated from the cable modem and my PC. I prefer for the PC to use a wired connection. In order to avoid running two 60' lengths of CAT6 to the router (one from the modem to the router, one back to my PC) I have the modem connected to a switch, when then goes to the PC and router separately (see visualization below) My issue is that I cannot get the router to see the modem through the switch. My PC has internet access through the switch, so I know that everything is hooked up properly. It may also be worth noting that before today the router was hooked directly into the modem and everything worked fine, so the only change is connecting the two via a switch. Are there different IP settings that I need to use due to the switch, or is it not possible to connect a router and modem via a switch?
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Sep 1, 2013 00:49
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