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jamal posted:Exedy stage 1 should handle that fine. Thanks. 15082 of 15082HD?
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Aug 31, 2013 01:17
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Get the regular stage 1, the HD pressure plate was a pain in the butt in my WRX.
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Aug 31, 2013 01:36
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I'm running the Exedy Stage 1 clutch in mine. No complaints.
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Aug 31, 2013 07:25
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So I have been doing some reading on EM options (Cobb vs open source) and I'm torn between the two. How good/bad are the Cobb OTS maps? I am ultimately looking to put on a DP and intake so I know I'll need a tune. I am probably going to hold off on the hardware and just flash a stage 1 tune for a year or so since the car is brand new, and I'd like to take advantage of the free maintenance from the dealer and not unzip my fly on the warranty. What is the real world failure risk on the pistons in my WRX? Is the V3 sensor polling interval good enough now to use it as a monitor?
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Sep 1, 2013 13:49
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Scaling for an intake is really easy with OS. Put the intake on first and scale for it, then toss on the downpipe and a stage 2 map with the MAF scaling copied over. Pretty simple stuff, and much cheaper. http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=4863
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Sep 1, 2013 15:06
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Larrymer posted:Scaling for an intake is really easy with OS. Put the intake on first and scale for it, then toss on the downpipe and a stage 2 map with the MAF scaling copied over. Pretty simple stuff, and much cheaper. I'm reading through the newbie tuning guide written by Bad Noodle over on NASIOC and the rom raider forums. My biggest fear with going OS is that I'm completely new to tuning so I'm a bit apprehensive to go that route for that reason. The pros are a tactrix is far cheaper, and the polling when logging is great. There are a few tuners local to me, but after paying them for a pro tune once I'm already getting to the price of Cobb AP, hence asking if the OTS maps are just miserable and the V3 polling sucks. Maybe I have my skirt over my head with the whole self tuning and it isn't as wrought with catastrophe as I think?
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Sep 1, 2013 19:03
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Aflicted posted:I'm reading through the newbie tuning guide written by Bad Noodle over on NASIOC and the rom raider forums. My biggest fear with going OS is that I'm completely new to tuning so I'm a bit apprehensive to go that route for that reason. The pros are a tactrix is far cheaper, and the polling when logging is great. There are a few tuners local to me, but after paying them for a pro tune once I'm already getting to the price of Cobb AP, hence asking if the OTS maps are just miserable and the V3 polling sucks. Maybe I have my skirt over my head with the whole self tuning and it isn't as wrought with catastrophe as I think? Just my opinion but you're better off doing all your engine mods at once and getting your tune over and done with. For me, that means taking it to a shop. I don't trust that I will have the expertise to do as good a job as a tuning shop.
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Sep 1, 2013 19:09
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If you're not comfortable, pay somebody. You'd also need to budget for a wideband on top of you mods also. Also just so you know, you can download base maps from people on the forums for "stage 2" so you could just buy the tactrix and that and see how it goes. It's probably a ridiculously common setup for people so I'm sure some decent maps for it exist. If you don't like it, have it "pro" tuned (any local dyno place) just the same as you would an accessport. The intake is another story. You'd need to get that tuned for your car unless somebody out there has already scaled it and you can copy theirs (same exact intake). But even the stock MAF is +-5% or so due to variation, so it never hurts to dial it in correctly for your car. I just looked and didn't see a lot of maps for the newer (08+) cars. Check our romraider and OSecuroms. Maybe others have some good sites to look at for OS tuning. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Sep 1, 2013 |
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Sep 1, 2013 19:35
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If anyone is looking for an access port I have one in great condition, AP-SUB-003. I have pics if you want them, it's unmarried and includes everything in the original packaging. Make an offer, but I dont have paypal so I prefer local (Denver area) but can ship if we can just work something out. I also have a set of Michelin pilot Alpin pa4 tires with one season on them in great shape for anyone around (will not ship).
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Sep 1, 2013 19:57
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Master of Demons is looking for one
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Sep 1, 2013 21:43
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VelociBacon posted:Just my opinion but you're better off doing all your engine mods at once and getting your tune over and done with. For me, that means taking it to a shop. I don't trust that I will have the expertise to do as good a job as a tuning shop. I have considered this very seriously and probably wouldn't do the intake or DP until later and do them together and have someone tune it. Larrymer posted:If you're not comfortable, pay somebody. You'd also need to budget for a wideband on top of you mods also. Also just so you know, you can download base maps from people on the forums for "stage 2" so you could just buy the tactrix and that and see how it goes. It's probably a ridiculously common setup for people so I'm sure some decent maps for it exist. If you don't like it, have it "pro" tuned (any local dyno place) just the same as you would an accessport. The intake is another story. You'd need to get that tuned for your car unless somebody out there has already scaled it and you can copy theirs (same exact intake). But even the stock MAF is +-5% or so due to variation, so it never hurts to dial it in correctly for your car. I was planning on getting a wideband as part of the DP and intake + tune, yes. Initially right now I was just looking at getting a better tune than the stock one and flipping back and forth while I get free oil changes etc... When that is up, I was going to go a bit further since I'll be doing my own maintenance. I'm less concerned about the money and more about doing it right. Paying for a new shortblock I would rather not, but I wouldn't be looking at modding if I wasn't willing to stomach being stuck with that bill. The medicine just tastes better if you know you made smart decisions and just got bit in the rear end.
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Sep 2, 2013 00:20
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Is a wideband really needed? I was trying to figure that out, and the FAQ on the romraider site says:quote:A Wideband O2 Sensor is almost, but not quite, essential. The stock O2 sensor is not accurate when the car is under boost. Cars with 16-bit ECUs use O2 sensors that are only accurate in a narrow range around 14.7:1 AFR under any conditions. Cars with 32-bit ECUs use O2 sensors that are accurate over a wider range, but they still located in the up-pipe, where exhaust backpressure renders them inaccurate. Even if you relocate a 32-bit ECU's O2 sensor downstream of the turbo, they will only read down to 11.1, which is insufficient for most tunes (you could shoot for 11.5:1, but few people do)
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Sep 2, 2013 00:39
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daslog posted:Is a wideband really needed? I was trying to figure that out, and the FAQ on the romraider site says: Yes, it's needed. If you're richer than 11.1, then it reads 11.1 and you'll have no idea where you're really at. If you change the intake, you don't know if your MAF is scaled correctly and your AFR that you set in your open loop fueling table will be off. Even stock MAF's can be off a bit due to variation between parts or orientation of the sensor/pipes/million other things. So to do it right you should have one.
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Sep 2, 2013 01:40
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Keep in mind that a tuning shop has a wideband they put in through the tailpipe for tuning so again, if you're only tuning it once it's cheaper to have a shop do it.
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Sep 2, 2013 01:47
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My question is why are you replacing the intake? Do you want more induction noise? The stock air box is good for 300 whp, so if you just want a louder intake just take off the silencer and call it good.
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Sep 2, 2013 01:57
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jamal posted:Master of Demons is looking for one I read that as Master of Demons was looking for you.
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Sep 2, 2013 02:31
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Why do dashboards have to be so poo poo? Something in my center aircon rattles like its about to fall out at 2.2kish revs in fourth, I'm 90% sure its a fan because it only happens when the aircon is off/low, and its really loud and obnoxious so I thought I'd try and fix it. That thing does not want to come apart.
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Sep 2, 2013 02:59
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Why do dashboards have to be so poo poo? Something in my center aircon rattles like its about to fall out at 2.2kish revs in fourth, I'm 90% sure its a fan because it only happens when the aircon is off/low, and its really loud and obnoxious so I thought I'd try and fix it. That thing does not want to come apart. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
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Sep 2, 2013 03:50
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nm posted:Go to harbor freight, buy some plastic dash clip pullers. $10 made my blower change take 5-10minutes. It shouldn't even take that. 10 minutes and a phillips screwdriver should have the glove compartment out and the entire blower motor assembly exposed.
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Sep 2, 2013 03:56
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Powershift posted:It shouldn't even take that. 10 minutes and a phillips screwdriver should have the glove compartment out and the entire blower motor assembly exposed.
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Sep 2, 2013 04:09
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Powershift posted:It shouldn't even take that. 10 minutes and a phillips screwdriver should have the glove compartment out and the entire blower motor assembly exposed. I had the glovebox off easy, its a few screws and clips, I couldn't get the center part off, and I was prying it hard enough that I thought the plastic was going to break. It felt like there were more screws under it but you can't get at it very easily, unless I'm blind and missed something.
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Sep 2, 2013 04:12
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I had the glovebox off easy, its a few screws and clips, I couldn't get the center part off, and I was prying it hard enough that I thought the plastic was going to break. It felt like there were more screws under it but you can't get at it very easily, unless I'm blind and missed something. With the blower motor on my 04, i had to pull off a couple support brackets on the far right hand side, and from that point on it was basically a rubix cube rotating and moving it a few inches each way to work it out of the hole, but if something is loose/vibrating, it should be as easy as exposing it, re-creating the noise, and touching poo poo until the noise stops.
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Sep 2, 2013 05:26
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This weekend I changed the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and accessory belts on my 2008 WRX; 102k miles currently. Overall successful but I did have a snafu that I believe I've mitigated for now. Sorry for the poor quality of images, using an iPhone in poor lighting. Prior to starting this, I did a significant amount of research. Here is a list of resources I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU A quick video by Jamal running through installing a timing belt on a DOHC Subaru. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSUxEF-NXNc MoeHanGarage doing this same maintenance on a 2003 WRX. Different model year but basically the same steps. 2008 WRX & STi Factory Service Manual Let's start!  New parts.  Up on ramps, pop the hood, ready to disassemble. Removed air intake scoop and the hose from the filter box. Next drained the coolant. Disconnected all the radiator hoses and pulled the radiator.  Loosened and removed the main accessory belt, cut the stretch-fit A/C belt. Removed crank pulley and timing belt covers. Replaced crank pulley and set the timing to TDC. Removed the crank pulley; Ready for new timing belt.  You don't see it removed in any photos but I did end up removing the secondary air pump as it sits directly above the driver side cams and made it difficult to see the top timing mark. I followed the FSM steps for removing the timing belt; the driver side intake cam spun on it's own when removing the belt but I did move the exhaust cam by hand to put it into a resting position. Removed and replaced the water pump. Here is where the snafu was introduced. Turns out, listings online for this brand of timing belt kit w/ water pump list/show a water pump with three ancillary outputs; my original only has two. The part number I was recommended was correct but the online listing for my vehicle had an 'SF' suffix which I was not attentive to and had ordered. I did not notice this third port initially and installed the water pump and new thermostat. I'm mostly disappointed in myself for this mishap as I *know* to compare old versus new parts when working on vehicles but sometimes we become complacent and end up being reminded. I merrily continue... Removed and replaced all the pulleys and tensioner. Installed the new belt and timed the driver side cams. Installed and gapped all the belt guides. I turned the engine over by hand for 4 or so runs through the entire timing. Cleaned up and installed the timing belt covers. Installed new accessory belts.  Radiator goes back in.  Bonus workbench shot.  Hoses get reconnected.  We're ready to fill with coolant! I start filling the engine and about two seconds later I hear coolant pouring out from underneath the car and my heart sinks. I look and, "Oh hey! There is a ancillary port on the water pump not connected to anything. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck." A break was taken and I did some research. Turns out there is a bit of confusion as to whether or not a 2008 WRX has an oil cooler (it doesn't but the STi does). I've found some manufacturers list a two port and some list a three port water pump for the vehicle. I toiled over this issue for a while, with my preference being to order the correct pump and replace it since I'm terriblly OCD about my vehicles, but I simply cannot have the vehicle out of commission that long. I build a plug to block the extra port.  Plug installed. I made sure the bolt head could not contact the block or oil pan. Back to filling with coolant. Engine is filled with coolant according to the FSM. This includes starting and running the car for 40 seconds or so. This was the first start after the belt and it started right up and ran well. Finished filling the vehicle, then started and let it get hot. Ran well and coolant isn't spraying out anywhere; Hazzah! Took it out for a test drive and flogged on it some. The engine runs smoother than when I bought it at 79k miles and a small hesitation in the lower RPM range has been resolved as well. The water pump plug appears to be holding as well. I went through all the new hose clamps and tightened them again.  Fin! TL;DR - I successfully changed the timing belt on my 08 WRX; runs great! I'm a dipshit though and installed a water pump with three ancillary outputs instead of two and had to plug one. Frankenstein fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Sep 2, 2013 14:17
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Need mods for your  turbo Subaru and are in metro Detroit? Buy my poo poo.http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3515402&pagenumber=3#post419036425
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Sep 2, 2013 14:57
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Swwww. I'm sorry, that's kind of my fault. I knew the 08 doesn't have that cooler and that kit goes on nearly every other subaru so I have the part number stuck in my head.
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Sep 2, 2013 17:37
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If the sti oil cooler is anything like the one on my lgt, I wouldn't bother. I'd get something aftermarket.
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Sep 2, 2013 18:59
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I have a 2012 Impreza, and some Hella 500ff lights. This is an initial mock-up. Installing them just like this is not going to work because when the grille is installed, the lights would be pointing 45 degrees up in the air. There is a black plastic piece that holds the mesh part in, and probably gives the whole thing structure. It can be unscrewed, which is how I got the lights in.  I would need to cut into this piece, which I'm not sure I want to do, because despite being a small bit of plastic, this grille is $200+. Or I can get smaller lights. This is what it looks like behind the grille. Its raining a lot right now, so I'm not going outside to see if there would even be clearance between the grille and radiator.  This could look cool, giving the lights something of a brow line if you will. But I don't know how the light pattern would be effected. Should I be concerned about airflow? I don't think heat from the lamps themselves should be an issue. Does anyone have any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, or concerns?
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Sep 2, 2013 19:10
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How much shake will that plastic piece have?
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Sep 2, 2013 19:11
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I think you underestimate the heat from the lamps, but also what that dude said, can you mount them solid enough to avoid them shaking all over? Generally I'd suggest mounting them out front a bit and solidly to the bumper or other solid metal structure. You should also check your laws locally if you care - here I technically can be cited if I do not have the covers on my 500FFs while on the road. The cops in IL and MO both will actually do this sometimes if you get pulled over for something else (speeding, light out, etc).
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Sep 2, 2013 19:16
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I have an auto-dimming mirror for late model Subarus. Posted HERE. I don't know if anyone would even be interested, but I figure it is worth a shot.
Aflicted fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Sep 2, 2013 19:33
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daslog posted:How much shake will that plastic piece have? si posted:I think you underestimate the heat from the lamps, but also what that dude said, can you mount them solid enough to avoid them shaking all over? I plan on building some kind of a structure behind the grille, I think there are a few bolts around the radiator area that can be latched on to. I wouldn't actually attach it to that plastic piece, but rather to something like this stuff. There is tons of conflicting information about auxiliary lights in NJ. You can't have more than 4 forward-facing lights (this car and many others have 6 stock - separate low beams, high beams, fog lights.) You can't have more than 4 lights on at the same time. The lights must be attached to a circuit that does not allow them to run unless the high beams are on. You need covers if they are higher than the headlights. You need covers if they are not lower than the headlights. You need covers period. I like behind the grille rather than out front because it's not this big obvious thing. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Sep 2, 2013 19:38
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If anyone is curious, you can in fact fit an 8-foot piece of lumber inside a 2012 STi sedan. Back end on the back of the trunk, front end about 2 inches off the air control panel in front. The edge of the knockdown back seat cantilevers the front of the plank up enough that it's not resting on the shift knob, though it's only about a quarter inch above it. Take some old towels to pad the ends in case of sudden braking and you can get away with it. If you're serious about carrying wood get a roof rack or a pickup or something.
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Sep 2, 2013 20:08
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jamal posted:Swwww. I'm sorry, that's kind of my fault. I knew the 08 doesn't have that cooler and that kit goes on nearly every other subaru so I have the part number stuck in my head. I just checked and you did have the part number correct, TCKWP328. I ordered what RA automatically pulls up for my vehicle under Gates Kit w/ WP and it shows a TCKWP328SF; I have a packing slip here stating this. I had compared prior to ordering but ignored the SF suffix; yikes. I've modified my post to reflect this. My apologies. As I said, ultimately it's my fault for not comparing the two components as I was changing them. Does adding the oil cooler make any sense or should I just wait until I have time to tear it down again and replace with the correct pump?
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Sep 2, 2013 20:30
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Well, no SF is for the stretch fit A/C belt. There are actually five "TCKWP328" kits. Standard, A, B, C, and SF. Standard, A, and B have slightly different idlers. C and SF are for the stretch fit belt, and C has the two port water pump. So you needed "C." I would skip the sti cooler. I've deleted it on a number of cars in favor of a air-oil cooler (which are more efficient than the stock part and don't heat the coolant) and did exactly what you did with the extra port.
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Sep 2, 2013 20:58
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jamal posted:I would skip the sti cooler. I've deleted it on a number of cars in favor of a air-oil cooler (which are more efficient than the stock part and don't heat the coolant) and did exactly what you did with the extra port. This puts me at ease some, thank you. I'll just leave the plug in place.
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Sep 2, 2013 21:47
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jamal posted:I would skip the sti cooler. I've deleted it on a number of cars in favor of a air-oil cooler (which are more efficient than the stock part and don't heat the coolant) and did exactly what you did with the extra port. Yeah, I haven't done it yet, and in heat, when driving hard, it gets very warm, warm enough that you may have to slow it down or park it for a bit. It is for this reason if you're doing any track work at all, I strongly recommend an oil temp gauge -- without it I may have cooked something.
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Sep 2, 2013 22:07
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Just wanted to mention the stoptechs street performance pads held up just fine on the track. Very little fade and no packing.
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Sep 3, 2013 05:34
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What's causing my 02 OB sedan H6 (190k on the odometer) to shake when accelerating, especially around 50-60 mph? I thought it was the tires and just bought brand new ones that were balanced before being mounted. It was less pronounced, but still there especially when accelerating like when going up a hill or something. I'm just not sure where to start looking for what's out of whack. Also, it was manufactured in 11/01. I know the front brakes changed from 01 to 02 but haven't been able to find a definitive answer for which front pads I should use as I need to order new pads and rotors. I plan on getting these from rockauto: pads: CENTRIC Part # 10509290 Posi-Quiet Ceramic; w/Hardware & Shims rotors: CENTRIC Part # 12047018 Premium
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Sep 3, 2013 08:12
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Probably a bad CV joint. I'd start with the inner fronts. And the pads you need are 105.07210 not the 929 ones.
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Sep 3, 2013 08:21
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| # ? May 28, 2024 09:55 |
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I have been looking for quite a specific car for a while now to replace the r36 wagon. Criteria being, powerful (preferably easy to tune, so turbo would be good), manual and awd. Obviously the liberty gt wagon is smack in the middle of my criteria, and has been for a while. Unfortunately I cant get over the looks. It is far uglier then the old spec b, is there any after market or oem bits that will make it look better? I would be specing it with optional enkei sti wheels.
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Sep 3, 2013 08:43
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