|
That's really some pink. Was that a factory selectable colour?
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 06:49 |
|
|
Sockington posted:Seen this the other weekend and thought of you. I was even able explain the cracking of the paint to another dude who was legit checking it out. Wow that thing is a mess! The Home Depot vents are a nice touch, as is the window trim thing attached to the passenger window. Also the body panels are even less lined up than they came from the factory, which I didn't think was possible! Munin posted:That's really some pink. Was that a factory selectable colour? Nope. Red, white, orange, green, and suntan (like a dark beige). That body was either replaced with painted fiberglass (poorly) or the acrylic panels were repainted (poorly).
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 00:13
|
|
|
Love the pink on that Bricklin. Very 80's.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 17:13
|
|
|
Its beach bum Barbie's Bricklin. Comes with an accessory bag featuring an eighth of swag, a pack of EZ widers and an earth mother merkin.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 03:44
|
|
|
Updates por favor?
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 03:27
|
|
|
I don't really have anything interesting to update right now. I did finally move my engine hoist back to the Bricklin after it being gone for 6 months. I've been focusing on getting my Talon back together, and now that it's mostly done I can shift focus back to this project. Money has been a little tight this year, so I can't do any big spending items like the door restoration or anything yet. Next plan is to buy some 1/4" steel plate and pipe, and order some bushings for my motor mounts. My goal is to emulate these, but with a bit of an offset since my engine will sit farther back than the frame mounts compared to these (which were built for an LS1 swap into a full size Jeep with the same AMC 360 engine) 
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 20:19
|
|
|
I see Grade 3 hardware bolts... And  with the hitch on the Pinko Bricklin.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2013 00:22
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:I see Grade 3 hardware bolts... 3 radial slashes on the bolt head denotes Grade 5. I don't think there even is a grade 3?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2013 17:49
|
|
|
There are grades 2, 5 and 8 with 0, 3 and 6 slashes respectively. For metric there's 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9 but they aren't exchangeable.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
xp67 posted:There are grades 2, 5 and 8 with 0, 3 and 6 slashes respectively. Grade 5 is about on a par with 8.8, Grade 8 with 10.9, in terms of strength. The metric designations actually give useful information, rather than simply "bigger number is stronger" - The number before the decimal place is the approximate tensile strength in hundreds of MPa, the number after is the yield strength as a fraction of the tensile strength in 10% increments. It's a little more complicated than that, and there's all the other stuff like nuts, stainless fasteners, proprietary designations etc, but the basics aren't too esoteric.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 12:58
|
|
|
Why can't we just adopt the metric system here. Everything would be so much easier. I'm really excited that an unknown number of bolts on this car are metric and an equally unknown number are SAE. It makes every nut and bolt a surprise!
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 19:49
|
|
|
Because I get 30 hogsheads to the rod and its going to stay that way. Also: Hearing Kilowatt when refering to something that isn't electrical just seems so off. Even the british skip that one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 21:28
|
|
|
It's really not that hard to switch between metric and imperial once you get used to it. Though people who make something to imperial sizes and then dimension it in metric units (e.g. a 25.4mm shaft, a 6.35mm thickness) can gently caress off.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 22:47
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Why can't we just adopt the metric system here. Everything would be so much easier. It's not an AMC/Jeep based product till it has both external and internal torx on SAE and metric threaded fasteners. With some big inside hex/allens and such thrown in for good measure. I'm slightly surprised they didn't find a way to put any Whitworth fasteners on them. (Did you get any E12 external Torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing or is that only an actual Jeep thing? I know it shares an engine/bellhousing pattern, so there's a chance...)
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 23:22
|
|
|
kastein posted:(Did you get any E12 external Torx bolts at the top of the bellhousing or is that only an actual Jeep thing? I know it shares an engine/bellhousing pattern, so there's a chance...) I'm not sure. I pretty much took the engine and tranny out as one unit and haven't looked at it since. I'll get some pics soon. The revival of this thread has gotten me motivated. I just ordered bushings for my motor mounts from Rock Auto. I'll run up to the local metal depot and get my 1/4" plate this weekend and start taking measurements. I've been looking at places online and while their prices are cheap, shipping is a killer as you'd expect. The cheapest I found for a 12" x 24" x 1/4" plate (or two 12" x 12") is around $50-$60 shipped, half of which is just shipping. I also need about a foot of 1/4" thick 2" ID steel pipe which seems to be hard to find online.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 08:36
|
|
|
Stop looking for pipe and look for DOM tubing - you want 2" OD 0.250 wall? Here you go, this place typically has good shipping. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15548&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=197 Show up at your local steel supplier for plate/box tube and just say you want to look through the drop pile and are quite negotiable about what exactly you're looking for... I have paid as little as 10 bucks for random bits of plate and box tube because the list of things that would work for me was very large, I didn't need any help, and they didn't have to lift a finger to cut it to size because I was willing to buy the whole thing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 15:39
|
|
|
I stopped by a local metal supplier when I wanted a length of 1/4" round steel for my fog light grill project. He gave me a 20' length and said it wasn't worth the time to bill out.  Hopefully you get as lucky. Maybe a quick, "I'm putting a GM V8 in an old Bricklin and wondered if I could have a peek in your scrap/discard bin"
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 17:07
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice. The bushings I ordered have an OD of 2", so I need 2" ID tube. This place: http://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/ is up the road from me, so I'll head there this weekend and see what kind of deal I can get. They don't have prices online.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 20:19
|
|
|
Like this? http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=13487&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=0 Hopefully the place near you has some on hand, because $30 is a little steep, but not too bad I guess since you only need to buy it once. Actually, give ruffstuff specialties a call and see what they think, they sell premade DOM bushing sleeves with grease zerks (not really needed for your app IMO) and if you call are usually OK with doing custom lengths and diameters IIRC. A friend got some for an upper control arm build recently and they were pretty helpful. The prices I see on their website for the DOM (turned to square up the ends, with a zerk), bushing, and bushing sleeve are about half what a foot of the bare DOM will cost you from onlinemetals, so you can probably get just the turned/squared up DOM for even cheaper. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 21:00
|
|
|
Well, part one arrived, and they look a little worse for wear. I guess you don't need to make leaf spring bushings look pretty. But now my plans changed and I won't be able to pick up the steel bits until next weekend. drat you labor day!
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2013 05:14
|
|
|
I've been struggling with what to do about the fuel tank situation. Here are the limitations I'm working with: - I don't want to hack up my stock tank. It's rare and in great shape. - I need to convert it from a carbed setup to EFI, with the ability to eventually pump enough e85 for a turbo V8. - It's basically a '74 AMC Gremlin gas tank which is not made as a repro by anyone anywhere. - The stock tank is roughly 32"x17"x10". A very odd size, and much smaller than most tanks that are rear fill and EFI ready, such as the B-Body Caprice/Impala for example. - Due to the size limitations and rear fill, no off the shelf fuel cells will fit and custom tanks run over $1,000. So here's my plan after hours of research. Also I have a question for people who know more about carbed fuel tanks than I do at the bottom. I plan on getting a Holley Red electric fuel pump and hooking it up to the factory feed line out of the stock gas tank. This flows 97gph at a low 7psi. Like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-801-1 That will feed a surge tank mounted next to the main gas tank, like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Universal-Thick-Aluminum-Fuel-Surge-Tank-5-x-7-S13-SR20DET-240SX-/140717293578#vi-content That will allow me to feed a constant supply of fuel to the main high pressure pump while also removing any air from both the feed and return lines. It will also make sure the high pressure pump doesn't get starved and the lift pump doesn't get overrun. Then I'll have a Bosch 044 pump inline from the surge tank to the rail, then FPR, then back to the surge tank, then from there to the main fuel tank. Whew. So does this work? My biggest question, since I know so little about carbed fuel tank setups, is can I hook up the Holley Red pump to the factory feed line from the tank? BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Sep 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 08:34
|
|
|
Quick question, but do you have a spare tire well in the rear end? They make racing cells that fit there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 22:04
|
|
|
I have a 255LPH Walbro sucking from the stock-style intake on my GMC (bigger diameter pipe, using the stock line for return) but I'm also not planning on needing anywhere near the fuel volume you are. I think a low-pressure pump feeding a surge tank is your best bet, especially since the surge tank should negate any fuel sloshing issues you'd get from a non-baffled tank. I've also got the (dis)advantage of having a very tall tank, so at least under acceleration I've got very little chance for sucking air anyway.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 22:23
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Quick question, but do you have a spare tire well in the rear end? They make racing cells that fit there. Nope it's just a flat fiberglass floor. This car never came with a spare tire.  That space looks a lot bigger than it is. You can see the filler tube coming down from the rear on the right of the frame. IOwnCalculus posted:I have a 255LPH Walbro sucking from the stock-style intake on my GMC That's good to know. I'm going to stick my phone in the filler hole of the gas tank today and see what it looks like inside. Hopefully I can just hook the feeder pump to the stock fuel pickup tube and that's that. I'd love to be able to use my stock tank without modification. This is my backup plan: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 22:42
|
|
|
The other thing you could do is pull the carbed fuel sender (which I assume is just a snorkel of sorts and a level sender bracket, basically) and attach an in-tank pump to its business end, then put in-tank pickups for a fuel cell on the inlet to the pump. Might come out well, might come out hack as poo poo, depends on how much you think about it and what parts you use. Getting power to it might be difficult, I know on some fuel senders there's an easy way to swap out the bushing for the wire to the sender to one with more wires going through it, but sometimes there just isn't space. I'd probably go with an external pump though. Much easier to service if/when it fails. Not sure you need the surge tank, I've seen externals that require no cooling, just bolt to the frame rail and plumb lines. Obviously, make sure you use FI pressure rated fuel hose downstream of the pump. Don't try to jam a too small hose over the barb, either, even if it goes on there, it damages the inner layer of rubber and allows fuel to get between the inner/outer layers of rubber along the reinforcement weave, which quickly separates the layers and bursts the outer layer of rubber, then you have fuel everywhere. Learned that one the hard way, but fortunately nothing caught fire.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 23:38
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:That's good to know. I'm going to stick my phone in the filler hole of the gas tank today and see what it looks like inside. Hopefully I can just hook the feeder pump to the stock fuel pickup tube and that's that. I'd love to be able to use my stock tank without modification. The one thing I would worry about there is sizing of the supply line; you might need to pull it and replace it with a larger-diameter one, especially for E85 if you still go that route eventually.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 00:14
|
|
|
Also E85 has its own requirements for fuel hose rubber and such, so pay attention to that. Is there a problem with just piling in some pickups from here and put some fuel cell foam in it? You can actually fit the big bricks of it through a 2" filler and move it around with long screwdrivers.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 00:17
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:I've been struggling with what to do about the fuel tank situation. Yes, it will work. that's how I EFIed all my cars in the late 90s. LP pump sucking off the tank, which feeds a 2L surge tank, and EFI pump feeding off the surge tank. LP pump was holley red, EFI pump was whatever was the recommended Bosch for required flow rate. I ran 12A and 13B turbos off that set up just fine. It just makes an ugly boot space... Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Sep 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 13:13
|
|
|
You might also look into if there is local place that can clean and coat the tank for you I'm not sure if the there any coating on the stocker but if it is it might not like the e85. Injectors like to gum up when switching to e85 if there is poo poo in the fuel system.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 19:33
|
|
|
Holdbrooks posted:You might also look into if there is local place that can clean and coat the tank for you I'm not sure if the there any coating on the stocker but if it is it might not like the e85. Injectors like to gum up when switching to e85 if there is poo poo in the fuel system. Hmm I was hoping to avoid that since it's a steel tank. The inside is in immaculate condition for sitting full of gas for 32 years. I wonder if it's because gas back then had no ethanol in it? Blurry crappy picture inside the fill tube.  There's zero room for the surge tank next to the main tank, so I'll need to put it between the seat buckets and the battery and door system buckets in front of the rear axle. Probably bolted to the black frame bit at the top and to the side to avoid clearance issue with the driveshaft.   I'm thinking of going with this surge tank since it combines the pump and the tank into one unit to save on room, and it keeps the pump fully submerged in fuel to help keep it quiet and cool.  http://www.034motorsport.com/fuel-injection-solutions-fuel-pumps-fully-enclosed-fp34-044-fuel-surge-tank-p-21527.html As for motor mounts, I made some rough measurements and it looks like the engine has to move back about 2.5 inches for the factory horns to *almost* line up with the mount points on the block. I might pick up some sliding LS1 motor mount brackets to give me a few inches of play. Driver side:  Pass side:  The engine has to rotate towards driver side 5 degrees and slide about 1.5 inches to the passenger side and it should be centered. It looks like the mounts on the frame are the same angle as the engine which is a bonus. And I should be able to move the engine back 2.5" before I have firewall clearance issues. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 22:23
|
|
|
If you intend to make an adapter plate, having it further off is actually usually easier than that close, because you get more clearance for bolts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 22:47
|
|
|
That is a slick as hell little surge tank / pump setup. If I ever run into fuel starvation issues on my GMC I'll stick that right in the frame rail. Is your engine set up with a return or a return-less fuel rail? If you've got a returnless one, you can stick a Corvette filter/regulator right next to wherever you mount that surge tank and have some nice short return lines to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 23:14
|
|
|
kastein posted:If you intend to make an adapter plate, having it further off is actually usually easier than that close, because you get more clearance for bolts. I am bolting a T56 to the engine, so no adapter plate needed. IOwnCalculus posted:That is a slick as hell little surge tank / pump setup. If I ever run into fuel starvation issues on my GMC I'll stick that right in the frame rail. I have an LS2 intake manifold and fuel rail, which I believe is returnless. My plan is to get the '99 Corvette WIX FPR and do exactly what you're saying. I'll probably have to tap another line into the fuel tank for the return.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 00:11
|
|
|
Sorry, I meant engine mount adapter plate, not bellhousing adapter plate.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 00:21
|
|
|
kastein posted:Sorry, I meant engine mount adapter plate, not bellhousing adapter plate. Ah, ok, gotcha. That is still a possibility. I was hoping to find a 3 bolt SBC adapter plate that would bolt to an AMC engine mount horn since I'm sure people have been bolting SBCs into AMC cars since the 70's, but no luck. Everyone just seems to weld their mounts in to the AMC cars.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 00:33
|
|
|
The biggest hurdle with carb to EFI conversions is fuel line sizing. Most carb tanks have too small of a return line (if any at all). Any surge tank setup needs a line back to the tank, and this line needs to be big enough that the surge tank isn't pressurised. I suggest removing the tank and seeing what you have to work with. It might be easier to sell the tank, and buy one you don't care about to modify. Cut it open and add an ATL black box and call it good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
mafoose posted:I suggest removing the tank and seeing what you have to work with. It might be easier to sell the tank, and buy one you don't care about to modify. Cut it open and add an ATL black box and call it good. That's the problem. I can't just pop into any place and buy a gas tank for a Bricklin. Even if it is a '74 Gremlin tank, those are so few and far between anyway. That's why I'm going through all this in the first place. I'm not opposed to drilling a hole in the tank and installing an AN fitting for the return line to keep the surge tank flowing properly. That's a lot easier than cutting the top of the tank off and installing an internal pump. I've had the tank removed for quite some time. There are two fuel lines going from the tank to the front of the car, one about twice the size of the other.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 01:59
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:There are two fuel lines going from the tank to the front of the car, one about twice the size of the other. Are those metric or standard measurements? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 02:18
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Are those metric or standard measurements? Hah, I didn't feel like getting into it. The fuel situation is under control. Now on to the motor mounts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 02:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 06:49 |
|
|
Bumping to keep out of the archives. This project isn't dead yet, just my social life is while I've been working 14 hour days for the past month. I'm hoping to get some time in December to wrench on the Brick.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2013 02:01
|
|