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So, when I told the dealer "it's probably out of tune because the PO had a different exhaust on it and you guys removed it when you bought it from him", they took that to mean "put the old exhaust back on and re-tune it." So, on the one hand  but on the other hand   gently caress. Now it runs like a goddamn champ and doesn't throw P0244 anymore but it's too loud for my tastes, and probably a few local ordinances. Quiter muffler? Help me out here guys. Edit: I don't even see cats unless I'm super retarded here. Additional gently caress. Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 00:09
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Uh, put a stock exhaust and stock tune on it? Or is there more than just the exhaust and tune in mods?
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Sep 12, 2013 00:15
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si posted:Uh, put a stock exhaust and stock tune on it? Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 00:18
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Fifty Three posted:Yeah. SPT intake, Walbro fuel pump, GrimmSpeed BCS, and Blouch 16G turbo, or I would. How do I identify what down/midpipe is on this thing? I don't see any markings without getting completely underneath it. The exhaust tip was Crawford Performance but I only see cat-back systems on their site. Fair enough, unless you want to swap the whole mess out, you're going to need an exhaust and a tune. You can probably make some money off that exhaust. As far as I know Crawford only makes one, so you would probably have http://www.crawfordperformance.com/product/exhaust-cp-02-07-wrxsti-gymkhana-cat-back-exhaust-bolts-nuts-gaskets-06-07-wrx/ The kids over on NASIOC would probably claw over each other if you offered to trade it for stock + cash. At that point you need a downpipe still, again whatever you have you can probably trade for stock + cash . Problem is, then your tune is going to be all hosed up again, so you're going to need a tune. This isn't a huge catastrophic thing, and it seems like the place you bought it from is capable of tuning it? If you don't trust them, you can probably do an e-tune. The stuff you have is 'standard' enough you can probably find a tuner that has a baseline that matches your setup to get you by while you're doing it without downtime.
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Sep 12, 2013 00:47
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 I thought so. It's just a pain in the rear end, and I don't have another car to be removing the exhaust for trading etc.Edit: The place I bought it from is a Honda dealership. I brought it back to them when it threw P0244 and they sent it to TPG Tuning in Blairsville, PA. The car seems to run fine so I'd have no problem getting it tuned by them again. Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 01:07
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Theres gotta be someone out there with a quieter, catted exhaust that wants to trade. Craigslist it! Or NASIOC.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:10
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Yup, start digging here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=149 and here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=127 Throw a post up saying what you've got and what you want, see if you can find someone local who wants to trade. The exhaust can be completely swapped in a couple of hours with ramps and hand tools. It's not a huge deal. Alternately you could just have them meet you at that shop if you don't have even that available. You can also just buy one and have 2 until you sell yours off, a stock turboback shouldn't cost you much.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:16
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Fifty Three posted:
Honestly it's probably easier to just find a different axle back, should be a quick 10 mins to swap. Barring that take it to an exhaust shop and get a different muffler welded in, as long as it's not crazy restrictive compared to your current one you shouldn't have an issue with the current tune. Look at the down pipe right after the turbo, some have the cat just a few inches from the downturn and you won't be able to see it unless you're right under it, or you might be able to check from above depending how cluttered your engine bay is.
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Sep 12, 2013 01:51
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I checked from above and as close to underneath as I could get, I didn't see a cat on the downpipe. I'll get it up on jackstands tomorrow and have a closer look. Alternate option: I get free lifetime inspections from the dealership because I bought from them. If they'll inspect it as-is, I'll just get a different axle-back like you said. Would it still require a re-tune if the new axle-back is relatively performance-oriented? Edit: I guess you answered that part.  Thanks for the advice, people. I'm just a little flustered because I had to drive a loaner Civic for three weeks while the dealership goofed around.
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Sep 12, 2013 02:07
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Fifty Three posted:I checked from above and as close to underneath as I could get, I didn't see a cat on the downpipe. I'll get it up on jackstands tomorrow and have a closer look. The catback is pretty much irrelevant to the tune, by the time you're past the downpipe things have cooled enough that it really shouldn't matter, even all the way back to stock. That said, the axle back will help with the sound outside the car, but that midpipe and catless downpipe are going to be loud in the cabin of the car. Stock midpipe has a big fat resonator that's probably bigger than the muffler to kill the drone in the cabin, and the cat acts as a major sound killer.
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Sep 12, 2013 02:09
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Fifty Three posted:I checked from above and as close to underneath as I could get, I didn't see a cat on the downpipe. I'll get it up on jackstands tomorrow and have a closer look. It really shouldn't require a retune for just an axle back, especially if you're looking at a performance oriented one. The difference in back pressure will be minimal unless the new one is ridiculously restrictive. e: ^ what be said. Is the only issue how loud the exhaust is or does it drone too? Bajaha fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 02:16
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 There appears to be a rather large resonator in the rear exhaust pipe. Or it's a cat in the wrong place! Or I have no loving idea what it is. What's weird is that Crawford's cat-back doesn't look like it has a resonator at all, so I'm not sure who made this. I honestly couldn't tell whether it was just the volume or a drone- all I know is that it was almost headache-inducing loud on the way home from the dealership, inside the car. The car wasn't very quiet inside before they swapped the exhaust, either, but this was just ridiculous.
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Sep 12, 2013 02:35
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Yeah, that's a resonator, just by comparison the stock one is a big ol thing like so
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Sep 12, 2013 02:39
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I figured, but I thought this looked a lot bigger than stock so that means it should be even quieter right? At any rate, I'd settle for a little quieter in the cabin if it isn't loud enough to attract police attention from the outside. I'm calling the dealership tomorrow- if they'll inspect it, new axle-back it is.
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Sep 12, 2013 02:42
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I have some sort of issue where whenever I start to seriously think about getting rid of my '11 WRX I buy something else for it. Last time it was an Accessport, today one of those cheapo eBay front lip spoilers so I can save myself the grief of shredding my front bumper on curbs and whatnot. I love my car, I can't figure out why I always want to get rid of it.
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Sep 12, 2013 02:52
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Shrapnac posted:I love my car, I can't figure out why I always want to get rid of it. Freud's early psychodynamic theory states that we actually hate the ones we love because we resent their power over us. I suggest this might be the case here.
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Sep 12, 2013 04:16
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Shrapnac posted:I have some sort of issue where whenever I start to seriously think about getting rid of my '11 WRX I buy something else for it. Because deep down what you really want is a FWD hot hatch that will try and rip the wheel out of your hands when you stomp on it in 2nd or 3rd?
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Sep 12, 2013 05:00
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Just put a more quiet catback on it and keep the tune and everything else. The crawford is stupid loud (they call it a "gymkhana" exhaust). Invidia q300 would be a good choice and I can get those for fairly cheap.
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Sep 12, 2013 05:15
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That's the plan. I called the dealership this morning and they said "as long as it doesn't throw a CEL there shouldn't be an issue! " Uh. It's almost assuredly not going to pass emissions, but okay. They also said they wouldn't be able to run the emissions test until it was actually due, which means I get to wait for almost a year and I'm a little concerned about getting screwed by them at that point. Whatever, screw it. Time to swap that sucker. Edit: Dear jamal, Your PMs are full. Love, Fifty Three Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 13:27
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Amandyke posted:Because deep down what you really want is a FWD hot hatch that will try and rip the wheel out of your hands when you stomp on it in 2nd or 3rd? Nah, I could have bought a MS3 for cheaper when I got my WRX if I had wanted to do that. I think I want a BRZ. 
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Sep 12, 2013 18:26
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I started up a conversation with a well known local tuner who had the following to say:tuner posted:Currently, however, we do not offer OS tuning for the 2008+ WRX/STi and the reason why is the current OS doesn't even come close to touching the Cobb software as far as how much access with have to the ECU so we do not feel comfortable with the quality of tune you would would end up with. The main reason for this is back when the GRs first came out, Cobb actually hired the main guy that was writing all the OS software code so there hasn't been nearly the amount of updates. Is this something any of you have heard before? It is just a back and forth dialogue over email, but I intend to ask him outright when I talk to him again. Also, on the 'Subaru Love' front, I had a little boy obsess over my stock WRX today. I was picking up my son at daycare and when I walked out to put him in the car this young boy was jumping up and down and pointing at my car with a maniacal grin screaming "IT'S A SUBARU, IT'S A SUBARU!" His mother looked at me and nearly apologized saying he loves cars and knows every one of them. I obliged him the opportunity to walk around and look in it while I got my son and his car seat snapped in and then gave him a nice quick rev when I started up. I miss the little things getting me that excited. Aflicted fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 22:46
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VelociBacon posted:Getting my Power FC install + tune done next Wednesday, and my DCCD pro should be shortly after that. Looking forward to trying it out after! Amandyke posted:Sound like a misfire to me. Thought I'd pop in with what this actually was. I'm at work tonight and nothing much was going on so I went out to throw some loom on my boost line coming off of the intake manifold. I'm out getting this done and I notice a loose hose clamp sitting on the 'arm' of the intake piping leading from the filter box to the intake manifold connection. I trace it back and lo, my intake piping was literally twisted off of the intake manifold and was essentially resting against it. I put it back on and screwed the hose clamp tight around it and am now feeling like an idiot as it was probably my error after checking my MAF sensor recently. I suppose I should have listened to my ECU and actually checked the engine when that light came on.  Edit: Just finished putting my order through for my DCCDpro Universal kit. Should be fun, I'll do a writeup. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 02:09
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Relatively new subaru owner here with a couple quick questions. My 08 Legacy was recently leaking a lot of fluid (by a lot I mean within two or three minutes of stopping the car it was halfway across the drive) from around behind the front right tire. It seemed to all the world to be water and I haven't had any other troubles thought the engine was replaced a couple months ago. Secondly it was re-striped recently and unfortunately it's beginning to peal on one door near the edge. Does anyone have any suggestions for re-gluing the striping before it gets bad?
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Sep 13, 2013 15:03
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Halligan posted:Relatively new subaru owner here with a couple quick questions. quote:Secondly it was re-striped recently and unfortunately it's beginning to peal on one door near the edge. Does anyone have any suggestions for re-gluing the striping before it gets bad?
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Sep 13, 2013 15:10
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Halligan posted:Relatively new subaru owner here with a couple quick questions. Have you been using the AC lately? If it's just water then it's from the evaporator which is normal. Cars don't leak harmless fluids.
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Sep 13, 2013 15:13
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That tube is notorious for getting clogged. Might be you've been hauling around all your condensation and something finally knocked it loose. You might want to give it a shot from an air compressor if you have one just to make sure it's good and open. Watch out for water on your passenger footwell area.
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Sep 13, 2013 15:17
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Finally got the heads off my $500 '04 2.5TS - one of the headgaskets had a small leak and was pouring coolant into one of the cylinders causing a misfire and lots of smoke. Just ordered new headgaskets, timing belt, clutch, oil pan, and a few other bits. Should have it all back together next week! Timing cover off  Oil pan off  Oil pickup, not much metal, mainly rubber gasket crap  Sludgey oil pan,it was dented badly so it's getting replaced  valve covers off - looks clean   oil dripped around the intake ports when i flipped the engine - I hope?   One of these things is not like the other!  Free piston wash with coolant!    The culprit, tiny leak   Nice dirty piston, the other side is MUCH more caked on, but I forgot to take pics - whats the best solvent to use? Throttle body cleaner ok? 
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Sep 13, 2013 17:17
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Just bought a 2013 BRZ Limited manual SWP. Is my half toyota RWD welcome here?
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Sep 13, 2013 17:36
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I've heard that Mopar combustion chamber cleaner is really great for cleaning that kind of poo poo off the top of pistons. You just have to be super careful about how you apply it because it's apparently a goddamn wildcat and will kill your entire family if it gets a chance. Those pictures make me a little nervous about my original-headgasket 03 2.5TS with an occasional single cylinder misfire. The oil separator plate on an '04 should be steel (00+) if not the aluminum piece (reportedly 04+), but double check to make sure that I'm correct and it's not the old plastic one that cracks and leaks. Also replace the PCV and check the breather vents while everything's out. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 17:56
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gohmak posted:Just bought a 2013 BRZ Limited manual SWP. Is my half toyota RWD welcome here? You've got your own thread here. Subies are always welcome, and both cars are built by Subaru anyways.
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Sep 13, 2013 18:07
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And instead of getting the stock pan get the new version that is better. Although you need the pickup and baffle to go with it. And I think the dipstick tube is a slightly different length.
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Sep 13, 2013 18:19
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Ordered the cheapest one from rockauto, hope it fits :\
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Sep 13, 2013 18:45
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Have you been using the air conditioner a lot, and do you have a very sloped driveway in a humid environment? That's about where the AC drain hose is on my car. Yes, very much so. Thanks
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Sep 14, 2013 19:08
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Question for the rally car. 2002 Impreza w/STi drivetrain. I've got a staging brake with a single in/out, meant for locking rear wheels. I'm deleting ABS, and re-routing the brake lines. My question is this: The master cylinder has two lines running from it, so I can I run line 1 to the hydro brake, and then out of it run a T to the rear brakes? On line 2 out of the master cylinder, can I run it to a T to the front brakes? I realise that if I lost a line, I would lose either front or rear brakes, but without using a dual-cylinder staging brake, I have to either run it this way, or tie all the lines together, which I would rather not. Is there a technical reason this wouldn't work? My diagram would look like this: 
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Sep 15, 2013 00:39
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MrZig posted:Question for the rally car. 2002 Impreza w/STi drivetrain. I've got a staging brake with a single in/out, meant for locking rear wheels. I'm deleting ABS, and re-routing the brake lines. My question is this: Yes that will work, ran almost exactly the same on the old VR4. HOWEVER you need to check your rules real carefully as some classes OR rego authorities will not allow that. To keep a set of number plates in some areas (like here in Aust) you must have the original dual circuit in place and thence run a dual circuit handbrake cylinder.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:03
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes that will work, ran almost exactly the same on the old VR4. HOWEVER you need to check your rules real carefully as some classes OR rego authorities will not allow that. To keep a set of number plates in some areas (like here in Aust) you must have the original dual circuit in place and thence run a dual circuit handbrake cylinder. Rules don't mention it, not sure on road laws but we don't have vehicle inspections here unless a cop demands one. I'm not worried about it safety wise.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:12
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Short of going to the group n dual circuit handbrake that's about the only way to go. I would guess it's how most guys have it set up and I have done an evo that way.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:21
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Got some free Hella 500FFs from a fellow goon.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:23
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MrZig posted:Rules don't mention it, not sure on road laws but we don't have vehicle inspections here unless a cop demands one. I'm not worried about it safety wise. Oh it's safe - if you cut one brake line you still have the other half of the car to stop you so no real problem there you'll be able to stop. It's more just be 100% it's legal.
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Sep 15, 2013 01:40
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So, if my car's tuned for this ridiculous exhaust, what effects would swapping it for a Q300 have? I'd rather not reintroduce the overboost issue that was just fixed. I only ask because today while driving through Pittsburgh I set off a car alarm and why aren't there any cheap used Q300s on the internet, why god
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Sep 15, 2013 07:28
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