|
It's a Dana Frankenstein axle.
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 05:30 |
|
|
It will end up being a "dana 36" hybrid axle. Dana 30 center section, axle tubes, mounts (strengthened), ring/pinion, carrier, etc. Dana 60 1 ton truck grade 8 lug steering knuckles, kingpins, brakes, spindles, hubs, ujoints. The only custom parts will be the steering, inner axleshafts (dana 60 parts, turned down, resplined, and shortened to match the custom housing and dana 30 differential) and the housing itself, which is a dana 30 housing with the stock inner knuckles cut off and dana 60 kingpin ones welded on. Reasons not to do this: It is retarded. The inner shafts, carrier, and ring/pinion are the weak point. It wastes two decent axles to build one that most people won't see a reason to run. gently caress em, they should have bought the donor dana 60 I cut up for 200 bucks sometime in the last 9 months, then I wouldn't have cut it up. Reasons to do this: It means 8 lug 1 ton brakes for my project without a giant can of worms making the larger 1 ton diff clear the future v8 engine, etc. Hell, it means I may not have to lift at all to clear the engine, which most people putting a v8 in an xj/mj have to do. I have 130 bucks into parts so far. My estimates say around 500 all in for the frontend. The resulting axle will be about 64" wide WMS (wheel mounting surface) to WMS, which matches the rearend I have planned quite nicely and should make the wheel fitment in the wheel wells a bit nicer, IMO. Here is an XJ with approximately the wheel fitment I will end up with:  I just finished tearing down the stuff I cut off the donor axle. Most nuts are 3/4", aside from rust and dirt it was quite easy to work on. Parts I need to order: Spindle mounting nuts x12 Kingpin seals Kingpin bushings Axle bearings and seals (the ones that mount in the spindle) Hub lockout mounting bolts (x8) Kingpin bolts (lower x8, upper x4) Kingpin studs and conical nuts (x4) Kingpin spring cap Brake caliper rebuild kits x2 Brake caliper retention h-block bolts x2 Possibly a spindle, hoping to find one at the junkyard Assorted zerks Kingpins... I hope not Hub seals x2 As well as a lower kingpin rebuild kit or two. The inner knuckles and axle tube cuts are disentangled from the rest of the parts though, which is the important part, because now I can bring them to work and see if a friend of mine thinks they will fit in his lathe. If they do, they will be turned out to fit over the ends of a dana 30 axle tube once the stock inner knuckles are cut off, then shrink fit on, rotated to the correct angle to adjust for desired steering caster, and welded in place. That is a lot of words and no pictures. Oh well, I just fought with 300lbs of rusty bolts and parts for a few hours, it is dark, and I am tired. Might take some pics tomorrow evening. I need to sandblast most of the parts I am keeping and then run a tap through all the threaded holes, these parts have seen 21 years of salt and it shows. An 11/16" socket fit on many of the originally 3/4" nuts and bolts. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Sep 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:15
|
|
|
kastein posted:I think this should answer that question... It looks like you are down in the kitchen..
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 08:54
|
|
|
West SAAB Story posted:It looks like you are down in the kitchen.. I can tell those pics were taken on the deck.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 14:52
|
|
|
drat it, buddy at work no longer has access to the lathe, the shop he had his machine tools in is closing down and the guy sold his lathe already. I guess I need to find another person with a lathe that'll spin a part like 8" wide and bore the middle out adequately. I'm not sure this qualifies as a "legos for real men" project because it involves cutting, turning, and welding. If it was finding things that could be lightly modified and then bolted together in a way never intended, sure, that's legos 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 17:48
|
|
|
Is this the part where you build a lathe out of a spare 4.0?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 18:24
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Is this the part where you build a lathe out of a spare 4.0? God I hope so! That would be awesome.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 18:27
|
|
|
Don't tempt me goddammit. I don't think I can hold the kind of tolerances I need to. I found a decent lathe for $400 on CL but seriously can't afford that for quite a while, more important things to throw money at.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 18:46
|
|
|
Did someone put TJ flares onto an XJ? what...
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 19:19
|
|
|
Yes. That's a common thing to do to meet tire tread coverage laws in states requiring it. Most people do two sets of rear flares, but some people like the way the front TJ flares look on an XJ.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 19:26
|
|
|
Been frustrated about my friend at work losing access to the lathe just when I needed it. Another friend texted me today and said someone he knows is trying to sell a big lathe for small money to get it out of his way. I am broke. I ask anyways... how big a lathe, how much money? Because I enjoy tormenting myself with nice things I can't have. He sends me a pic.   How much? ... $150. It looks like my budget is hosed for this paycheck!  I suspect it is going to cost me more to get it to the shop (pending approval, going to put it in the shop at work on the condition that any employee can use it) than I will have paid for it. I can't even get a "babbys first lathe" harbor freight special for $150, so even if I have to completely rebuild this thing, I don't give a drat. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Sep 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 16:48
|
|
|
Too bad the five ton is broken, that would make a good heavy equipment delivery vehicle. Hope you have a giant loving gantry crane on both the from and to ends!
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2013 07:57
|
|
|
We have a couple forklifts at the shop, just hoping the place selling it has some way to get it on a trailer/truck really.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2013 08:26
|
|
|
Hell of a price, and the older lathes are the best ones, unless your talking CNC. That one looks awesome - reminds me of the 9" (IIRC) Clausing my dad bought when one of the local school districts closed down their voc-ed programs (idiots - but at least he got a cheap lathe rather than some jerk scrapping it!) I've yet to use the Clausing, but it's nice knowing it, and a Bridgeport knee mill are there if I need them. Man, I haven't used either of those type machines since high school. That's longer than I care to think about... And yeah, they're a bear to move. Also, 3-phase, which yours may or may not be. e: typos and formatting.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2013 20:02
|
|
|
 Just gonna put this here....... http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4085644767.html
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 22:55
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:
Hell yes. I'll buy it, shove it in a shipping container and resell it for 5-10k profit. Whoever is selling it should have at least cleaned it a little before taking the pic. I see a snail on the engine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
Benz turbodiesel that's included with the Jeep. Factory engine is a 4.2L Jeep 6 that's dying, according to the ad.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 23:13
|
|
|
That is all far too far away from me. I wouldn't buy it if it was next door, though... On another subject I am tired of wearing out steering intermediate shafts in the MJ. Used ones, even ones that don't seem to have any wear or play in the joints, don't last all that long when you drive like a maniac. Three options. 1. dealer replacement ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 2. Borgeson makes one, $284. Ouch. 3. Borgeson makes U-joints to connect anything to anything for steering. I need a 3/4" 30 spline to 3/4" smoothbore one at the steering box end and an unknown dimension double-D to 3/4" smoothbore one at the steering column end. Problem: they say drilling and pinning the smooth bore section to a tube will weaken it by 30%. They also say not to setscrew it (duh!) and that welding it is not something they recommend. Alright, what the gently caress am I supposed to do, hot glue it on? Ideas? Ideally I'd get the U-joints separately from the U-joint yokes and simply weld the yokes onto the tube before pressing the U-joints in, but they don't seem to sell them that way, only preassembled and staked in place. This all will help a lot when I go to build the frame (still planning that...) because the steering box probably won't end up in the factory location, so the factory steering shaft may not be the right length. e: I will probably just nut up and buy the premade one eventually, they make them in various lengths and recommend simply disassembling them (they have a telescoping section in the middle) and cutting down till the length is right if your application isn't quite normal. Jesus though, $284? This is an expensive hobby dammit. The u-joints themselves are $80 each, so $120 for welding, slip joint, and two tubes that sleeve inside each other and lock together rotationally plus a rubber bellows boot... I guess that isn't really too too bad. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Sep 24, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 04:27
|
|
|
kastein posted:That is all far too far away from me. I wouldn't buy it if it was next door, though... Option 4 : http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-4713943-Steering-Column/dp/B008VPWBTY $105 Granted, it isn't a permanent upgrade, being OEM equivalent, but still. I tried like hell but I could NOT find the Borgeson any cheaper, though. I think I might actually attempt to rebuild the steering box in my XJ at some point, now that I see how cheap the rebuild kits are. drat.
ACEofsnett fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Sep 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2013 03:30
|
|
|
ACEofsnett posted:Option 4 : Rebuilding a steering box is a task above mere mortals. I will gear a diff or rebuild a man trans... I remove and replace steering boxes. gently caress. That. I need to think about the steering more I guess.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2013 15:39
|
|
|
Speaking of steering boxes, do you know about redhead boxes? Apparently they're awesome, I'm planning on getting one for my crown vic. http://redheadsteeringgears.reachlocal.com/?scid=982563&kw=5016327
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2013 03:10
|
|
|
I've actually never heard of redhead... those look a little expensive for my tastes. $50 at the junkyard is more my style  Decided to do a fuel tank swap after work tonight, since the check valve (part of the FPR assembly on top of the pump on 97+ XJs) is beyond junk and the fuel level sender hasn't worked right in ages, and I had a spare good tank/pump/level sender assembly sitting around. 1.5 hours in (I estimated 45 minutes to an hour) the new tank is in and hooked up, just needs the two straps tightened down, and one of the stupid hose clamps for the filler hose broke. Go figure, it's the hose I've told probably 30 people on NAXJA to buy ahead of time because they always break. What did I forget to buy ahead of time? So I'm going to say gently caress it and drive home with the hose slip fit on there, since it is the top end and was a pretty snug fit. I'll buy a drat hoseclamp on the way to the junkyard tomorrow morning. I think at least 2-3 pounds of dried mud fell out of various places when I pulled the tank out. None in my eyes yet thankfully.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 02:29
|
|
|
VikingSkull posted:That hill on I84 is a motherfucker. I know exactly where you're talking about. I can't wait  When is the next rallycross? Saw these at the junkyard for $225, got out the door with mounting/old tire disposal/tax for 260 total. Studded 215/70R15 firestone winterforces. I was hoping for 235/75R15 (what I already run) but 260 total vs 400 for tires/shipping, 80 for studding, and ~60-100 for mount/disposal convinced me in a hurry. I will deal with the lack of ground clearance somehow, and it has some real getup from a stop now with the smaller tires anyways.  Two of my three matching tires were horribly dry rotted, one was very oddly worn and causing some very bad vibrations at 70mph, and the third one had a nail go through it Thursday. I had been looking for a fourth to match the other three but suddenly I was looking for three to match the one I had, or four since that would still leave one dryrotted tire, and so I just went with these when I saw them. Gas tanks suck. But at least I planned ahead, there was only around 4-5 gallons in it and I was waiting for traffic to clear before driving home from work anyways. Gauge is a little flaky still, I suspect it will clear up once it has sat in gas for a while, and it starts on the first crank now because the new tank/pump/filter/check valve assembly isn't shot. loving mud.  gently caress you old pump/check valve/sender assembly!  Time to get all the fuel out of the old tank so I can drive to the gas station and fill it up instead of walking there with a jerry can. What's that, I forgot to bring hoseclamps, hose, or jumper leads? Scrounge in the trashcan and find some vinyl tube and a piece of used safety wire. A 14.4v cordless tool battery will do.  Done.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 21:39
|
|
|
So those are studded winter tyres? I don't know what they normally go for but the size looks adequate unless you're looking to go serious offroading with studs. How would that work out anyway?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 22:15
|
|
|
Not sure how well they would work for you, but a pair of Airlift helper air bags on the saggy leafs helped my '99 XJ a ton. Would be a cheap way to get some ground clearance and just overall a great way to stay level especially when you're loaded down with poo poo in the back.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 00:01
|
|
|
I was actually thinking of doing exactly that but hadn't gotten as far as looking up how much they would cost or who made them. Thanks! I am always loaded down with poo poo, my toolbag is close to 100lbs and permanently resides in the back of the jeep just in case I decide to do repairs after work or something. I need to order a new set of bumpstops too, the ones that are in there are beyond hosed. That and the heater core will probably be the next repairs, then I need to throw a new exhaust on it, again, because this one's pretty shagged out from being smashed into rocks and heavily rutted dirt roads repeatedly. I think this time I'll probably just put a flex joint in the downpipe, then run catalytic->glasspack->turndown because factory style mufflers don't last me very long and the tailpipe is always snagging on things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 00:06
|
|
|
They are well worth the $200, it's more with a compressor but you don't need one. Just make sure you mount the valves in a place they wont get ruined. Super easy install, and super easy to take off when you want to swap them on another Jeep. If you plan on driving XJ's for awhile it's a great investment because as you know the rear leafs sag on pretty much every XJ there is, and leafs aren't exactly cheap or easy to replace. [edit] They actually improve the ride a bit too. [edit 2] I should post a pic of my old XJ, all this talking about XJs makes me miss it 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Oct 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 00:28
|
|
|
This will actually be my last XJ most likely. No idea how long it will last, but I can't see a reason to buy another right now. I've done leafs on an XJ, it cost me around 250 bucks for the pair as I recall, getting the drat bolts out was a bastard though. I much prefer the MJ design, all leaf bolts are through bolts so if they seize you cut both ends off and blast the stub out with an air hammer. So the airlift idea is very appealing because I'll be damned if I'm going to go through that poo poo again, and if I had to guess, I can probably make them fit an MJ as well, they use the same 2.5" wide springs (spring under axle instead of spring over, and different spring length, but whatever) and roughly the same suspension travel. It's either that or go with a "bastard pack" leaf spring build, where you pick and choose leafs from a donor pack and combine them with the existing ones to make a pack with the thickness, spring rate, and rest height you want. The benefit to that is the same as an airbag setup, you don't have to undo the leaf bolts, you just remove the axle U-bolts, cut the centering pin in the leaf pack, experiment with which spring leaves to use, then put a new centering pin in and throw new U-bolts on. I think I'd prefer the airbag setup because it can be adjusted to compensate for cargo weight changes. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Oct 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 01:07
|
|
|
As for the tires, I'm a dumb Floridian so I don't know what snow is, but aren't narrower tires supposed to be better in winter because they punch through packed snow better?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 02:50
|
|
|
Yes. They're colloquially known as pizzacutters. These also have an interesting directional stepped tread pattern so that they always have lots of biting edges (instead of getting somewhat rounded over as they wear) as well as fuckloads of siping. And snow tires are made out of a softer compound so they're still pliable in cold weather. And then you throw in the carbide-core steel studs that bite into slick ice/remelted packed glazed snow and it's like you can go anywhere. I have my eye out for a limited slip rear for it every time I go to the junkyard, same one I put in the white truck a while back. That plus the snows plus maybe a limited slip or auto locker in the front and I'll be able to go anywhere. I'll miss the full inch of ground clearance I'm losing (235/75R15 down to a 215/70R15 is a big jump, my speedo reads 80 when I'm doing 73 now) but sticking to drat near anything this winter will be worth it. And I have my eye on a set of 235/75R15s with a decent aggressive-ish mixed pavement/allterrain tread pattern at a local junkyard, they want $250, if they still have them when I get my next paycheck I'll probably grab those for next summer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:30
|
|
|
kastein posted:I've done leafs on an XJ, it cost me around 250 bucks for the pair as I recall, getting the drat bolts out was a bastard though. Yeah that's pretty much the reason I went with the air springs. I thought about new leafs or a bastard pack and said gently caress it. Saved me a lot of time and aggravation, would do it again A++.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 04:04
|
|
|
kastein posted:
I had to shove those numbers into a size calculator to see how much difference there is. I can see why you're hurting for clearance. Even the A/Ts on the Niva when I got it were larger diameter. Thanks for the explanation of snow tyres for us hot climate folks. There's a lot to be said for pizzacutters but they fall short on soft surfaces with no solid base like sand or deep mud. I know you know that kastein. Just saying is all.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 06:01
|
|
|
Can anyone think of a way to get a ~540rpm PTO drive out of a 4.0L/AX15/NP231 drivetrain, preferably one that runs even when not in gear? I can't, and I have a really stupid idea that requires this. There's no PTO option for the AX15, anything involving the transfer case means it'll only run when the vehicle is moving, and I can't think of a good way to add it to the belt drive since it'll need to transfer 30-40hp at least.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 21:43
|
|
|
kastein posted:Can anyone think of a way to get a ~540rpm PTO drive out of a 4.0L/AX15/NP231 drivetrain, preferably one that runs even when not in gear? I can't, and I have a really stupid idea that requires this. There's no PTO option for the AX15, anything involving the transfer case means it'll only run when the vehicle is moving, and I can't think of a good way to add it to the belt drive since it'll need to transfer 30-40hp at least. That's an awful lot of HP for a PTO to take. Otherwise I would have suggested some kind of crankshaft and reduction box setup. I know nothing about the drivetrains on these so humour me. is the TC bolted directly to the transmission or is there an intermediate coupling or shaft?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 21:46
|
|
|
Bolted directly on, that's not relevant however because either way, the output shaft of the transmission is only turning when it is in gear.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 21:51
|
|
|
Potentially stupid idea: Is there a mechanical fan on the front you can take off and replace with some kind of gearing, then put an electric fan in front of that?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
kastein posted:Bolted directly on, that's not relevant however because either way, the output shaft of the transmission is only turning when it is in gear. Ah sorry. Your TC doesn't have a neutral. Nevermind. Completely impossible for a couple of reasons. There is another option I forgot about. Again the HP is an issue, and cost kind of is unless you know someone but a hydraulic pump and motor setup. A standard PS pump probably wouldn't be anywhere up to the job.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
There is a mechanical fan but I kinda need it to cool the engine... and I really doubt the belt drive will handle the kind of power I need to transfer. A loose serp belt on these manifests as a squealing belt when the alternator tries to charge the battery, they're only ~137A alternators (2kw, 2.6hp) even when fully upgraded. This may be a stupid idea and simply get tossed aside for another setup.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
kastein posted:There is a mechanical fan but I kinda need it to cool the engine... and I really doubt the belt drive will handle the kind of power I need to transfer. A loose serp belt on these manifests as a squealing belt when the alternator tries to charge the battery, they're only ~137A alternators (2kw, 2.6hp) even when fully upgraded. Breaking out the amount of power you are after isn't easy. If it were in a more normal PTO range the hydraulic setup is nothing unusual. Unless there are special variant parts made for rural or military applications that can be made to fit, a mechanical PTO is a bit tough. Are you sure about your figures on the load for the alternator? Or is it more of a location problem causing a bad belt angle? Even a single V belt setup is good for 10+ HP. But anyway 10 is way below 30 or 40. Really I can't even think of what you'd want to run that uses that HP short of a large sawmill, pump or generator.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 22:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 05:30 |
|
|
 I am extrapolating here, since they recommend a ~40-50hp tractor to run something like this, I assume approx. 30-40hp is for the snowblower. I am going to have to fab up either a snowplow mount or a snowblower mount before this winter and if I gotta weld, I'm going with the one that involves more motors and less getting stuck trying to push too much snow with not enough truck.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 22:36
|
|