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That's pretty drat awesome right there.
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Sep 9, 2013 00:28
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I had quite a bit of time to work on the jewellery box this weekend, I borrowed my friend's scrollsaw to try a bit of marquetry. I was going to put the year in the corner, but the text was too small and caused the saw the break the veneer up, so I stopped after the initials. Nice work. She might actually marry you after all this!
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Sep 9, 2013 00:38
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Probably everyone here reads the tool thread too but what the hell, xposting... Leaves a surface like glass. The shaving doesn't even seem real, it looks and feels like plastic. Best $4.50 I ever spent.  
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Sep 10, 2013 05:51
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Dont worry, I would be posting the poo poo out of that restoration everywhere I could as well. Amazing job.
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Sep 10, 2013 15:48
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wormil posted:Probably everyone here reads the tool thread too but what the hell, xposting... Wish I had your luck. Every one of these I find is ridiculously expensive.
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Sep 10, 2013 17:36
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Nice! I grabbed a 9 1/2 at an auction for $9. Love that little thing. I just made another plane.  
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Sep 10, 2013 17:44
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Thank you Frogmanv2.pageerror404 posted:Wish I had your luck. Every one of these I find is ridiculously expensive. The trick is buy one that looks like rear end then clean it up. I bid on another that looked bad but someone outbid me by ~$4.00. mds2 posted:Nice! I grabbed a 9 1/2 at an auction for $9. Love that little thing. This one is very elegant, I like it.
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Sep 10, 2013 18:42
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Wormil- I'm cross posting a question from the tool thread, where you showed off your new tapper. What, more precisely, would you use it for? I know for faceplates, but my ignorance on this matter doesn't even allow me to form a more specific question. I'm new to bowl turning- I've been at it about 10 days. And. I. can't. stop. I'm driving my wife crazy, positively losing hours on my lathe. After my third or so very amateurish bowl, I already wanted a bigger, better lathe. The only reason I'm not on it right now is that I stopped for coffee on my way back from picking up 25' of 14" diameter black locust tree someone was giving away on craigslist. So, questions for all you more experienced turners: when you turn green wood, what's your process for drying, sanding, and/or finishing? I browsed David Ellsworth's book, which helped a little. Tage Frid seems to only give advice about dry wood turning. A website I found that seems reputable advises storing the turned bowl in brown paper bags for a few days to a week. Ive also seem that some turn to around 1" thick, let it dry for months, then re-mount the bowl once it's dry to turn to finish- which seems silly. Can anyone give me a play-by-play of what you do when you finish the actual turning?
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Sep 12, 2013 00:44
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Stavrogin posted:Wormil- I'm cross posting a question from the tool thread, where you showed off your new tapper. What, more precisely, would you use it for? I know for faceplates, but my ignorance on this matter doesn't even allow me to form a more specific question. This might help. http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/WoodenFaceplate/WoodenFaceplates.htm Take a piece of wood, find the center, drill and tap for the threads on your lathe (i.e. 1x8, 3/4x16, 1x12, etc), mount the piece on your lathe as if it were a metal faceplate, cut it down to a circle, true the face. From there you basically have a wooden faceplate to which you can glue mount bowl blanks or glue on sandpaper for disc/drum sanding. http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2012/04/03/a-disk-sander-for-the-lathe/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWDeiTaX54c&feature=share&list=PLEe3FbxhHqCcyntMkhDP9zguSuZXVSZ4d As for drying, I'm still experimenting but some common methods are: Leaving it in a paper bag for several months occasionally changing the bag. When the bag no longer gets wet it's done. Boiling. Soaking for 24-48 hrs. in 50/50 mix of dish soap and water. Burying in sawdust for a few months. Soaking in alcohol. I've done the sawdust thing and it works a champ. I keep a bucket next to the lathe, throw partly turned green wood into it and cover with sawdust then forget about it. A good idea to churn the sawdust once in awhile or you can get mold. I tried soaking in soap/water except that was for a seasoned burl that is/was difficult to cut. Soaking definitely made it easier until I got deeper into the burl. Everything else I've turned was already dried. edit: one more... http://lumberjocks.com/projects/89413 wormil fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Sep 12, 2013 |
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Sep 12, 2013 03:23
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They sell kitty litter that is 100% silica. I have not used it for wood turning but silica is an excellent desiccant. Its $8 for a big bag on amazon or you can get it at a place usually sold as "pearls" because they're little round beeds. After they absorb the water they can be baked to release it.
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Sep 12, 2013 03:54
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Stavrogin posted:Wormil- I'm cross posting a question from the tool thread, where you showed off your new tapper. What, more precisely, would you use it for? I know for faceplates, but my ignorance on this matter doesn't even allow me to form a more specific question. I rough out my green bowls to around 10% of the bowls diameter. So a 10" bowls rough out will be around an inch thick. Some woods move more as they dry, some move less. Some also crack more easily than others if left too thick when drying. The point is, it's a balancing act that you'll always be refining. I let my green bowls dry from 6 months to a year, depending on species, thickness and my patience. Then I put them back on the lathe to finish. This nets you a nice round bowl that'll stay that way. Mostly. You'll lose quite a few to cracking in the drying process. Typically the larger and thicker the blank the more often I get cracks. But when you get fast at roughing them out it's not a big deal to turn out 10-12 rough bowls in half a day, including the chainsawing, sharpening, bandsawing/whatever. My best advice is to turn as many rough outs as you can stand as often as you can stand, both for just practice and to make sure you'll have plenty of dry ones in a few months. Oh yeah. I also seal the end grain with Anchorseal, a wax based coating used for preventing end grain checking due to the rapid moisture loss end grain experiences. I also put them in paper bags for about a month after roughing them out. I roll the end of the bag up as much as a can, like a potato chip bag after you open it. After a month I open the end of the bag up. After a few months I take them out completely and let them sit in the open air. I've also boiled them in a big vat after roughing and before all the bagging and anchorsealing, and it really does help with cracking around end grain and knots. They look lovely on the outer 1/16 or so of depth, but you'll be turning a lot more than that off anyway. I haven't set up a way to boil them now that I'm back home.
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Sep 12, 2013 05:16
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Wormil/carforum/chaotic, what do you think of the drying theory put forth by this guy- http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html ? He seems to hold if you turn it thin enough the first time and bag the bowl, it can dry anywhere between 2 days and 3 weeks. Seems crazy? But I don't know any better. Also, what are bad woods to turn? I live in the northeast and am harvesting lumber here, so I'm not worrying about lignin vitae or cocobolo or anything. What are your favorites?
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Sep 13, 2013 15:51
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"Bad woods?" What makes it bad? Black palm sucks. It's made of a thousand tiny splinters that will get everywhere. Not native, obviously, just bringing it up as a possible example of what bad can mean. I'll never turn black palm again so long as I live if I have the choice. Osage is hard as gently caress unless you turn it green. I didn't.  Soft maple is my favorite wood to turn. Cuts easy and smooth, finishes up nice. Some people don't like the plain nature of it, but curly maple can help with that. Basically, all the hardwoods you'll find en masse in the northeast are fine: maple, walnut, cherry, oak...I'm not a fan of turning oak because it's kinda splintery or reedy or whatever. Maybe it'd be better green, I've never tried. Don't rule out softer woods, though: they're great for turning in any condition. I don't know what the regional softwoods are here, but things like ash and poplar and beech and such are all good. The shortest answer is: if you can get a log of something, do it, and try it out. Everyone's preferences are different and the only way you'll find out if you hate something is by trying it. And as always, mind the dust. I think walnut dust is supposed to be particularly disagreeable. Also always be wary of inhaling dust from spalted wood. I don't know if that's an urban legend thing or what, but you probably don't want to risk it either way. Whereabouts are you if you don't mind my asking?
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Sep 13, 2013 16:11
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New York's Hudson Valley. Also, do you have resources for identifying trees and/or stumps? I've gotten decent at basics like varietal oaks and maples, and easy ones like birch, but that's mostly based on leaf ID.
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Sep 13, 2013 17:54
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I've been going through hell trying to plane a table top by hand. I've been using this hand plane, and it seems like no matter how I adjust the plane it tears out big chunks of the wood. I thought that the blade wasn't sharp enough, so I sharpened it well enough to shave the hair off my arm and while I get a really nice surface on some spots, it keeps tearing wood out in other spots. What could I be doing wrong? The wood is rock maple.
Dolphin fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 21:20
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Stavrogin posted:Also, what are bad woods to turn? I'm still learning, so what Bad Munki said. I will emphasize that really hard woods like ipe or black locust are a bitch; and soft maple is also my favorite so far though it can be very plain. Burls are beautiful but also difficult to turn, or at least they have been for me, not only because are they hard but the grain just goes every which way. Dolphin posted:I've been going through hell trying to plane a table top by hand. I've been using this hand plane, and it seems like no matter how I adjust the plane it tears out big chunks of the wood. I thought that the blade wasn't sharp enough, so I sharpened it well enough to shave the hair off my arm and while I get a really nice surface on some spots, it keeps tearing wood out in other spots. What could I be doing wrong? The wood is rock maple. Make sure you plane with the grain. Often described like stroking a cat, if you go against the fur (grain) it will stand up and be scraggly (or tear out) but if you go with the fur (grain) it will lay down and be smooth. For smoothing you need a plane with a tight mouth, which your Buck Bros will not have. With figured wood the grain raises and falls basically going in multiple directions, it is interlocked and presents a challenge. There are a variety of ways to deal with it like high angled planes, toothing planes, scrapers, traversing (planing across the grain) or resorting to sandpaper. The Buck Bros plane will have too big a mouth, they are for carpentry not fine woodworking, so I would try traverse planing followed by scraping or sandpaper. Edit, here is the best image I found to illustrate what I mean. 
wormil fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Sep 13, 2013 |
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Sep 13, 2013 22:16
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[quote="wormil" post="419445013"] I'm still learning, so what Bad Munki said. I will emphasize that really hard woods like ipe or black locust are a bitch; and soft maple is also my favorite so far though it can be very plain. Burls are beautiful but also difficult to turn, or at least they have been for me, not only because are they hard but the grain just goes every which way. I'm actually working my way through a black locust log, and it's been a pleasure to turn. It IS green as green gets, though, having been cut down only a few weeks ago. And what a color! I keep thinking about Indian curries as the shavings fly off.
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Sep 13, 2013 23:25
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wormil posted:Edit, here is the best image I found to illustrate what I mean. In terms of hand planers, is there anything good for woodworking that I can buy at a big box store like Lowes? Or do I have to order online?
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Sep 13, 2013 23:38
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Dolphin posted:Okay, that was definitely my problem. I've glued up the tabletop so that half of the grain is going in one direction, and half the opposite, so whenever I crossed over from one board to the other I was going in the wrong direction. Just buy out this guy and you'll be all set.
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Sep 14, 2013 00:05
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Dolphin posted:In terms of hand planers, is there anything good for woodworking that I can buy at a big box store like Lowes? Or do I have to order online? No, nothing from a big box store. Those planes can be tuned so they perform okay but never good enough for smoothing difficult grain. You should be able to plane across the grain to remove any tearout and flatten the table top then you'll just have to sand it smooth. Some people are afraid of planing cross grain but I've flattened 4 tables (a mahogany dining table and 3 end tables), a workbench, and any number of boards that way without problem using a British made Stanley (no better than your Buck Bros). Set it for a fine-medium shaving and plane 90d to the grain. If you do need to take it down thinner then set the blade slightly deeper. Stavrogin posted:[quote="wormil" post="419445013"] Fessing up to say my experience with black locust is off the lathe and after looking it up just now it's about the same hardness as padauk which turns nicely. So I probably shouldn't have mentioned it above. The ipe though, yeesh, the end grain especially was tough. Here is a picture of the 
wormil fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Sep 17, 2013 |
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Sep 14, 2013 00:28
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Uncle Enzo posted:Just buy out this guy and you'll be all set. whaaaaaaaaaaat.
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Sep 14, 2013 02:38
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Uncle Enzo posted:Just buy out this guy and you'll be all set. And I used to live so close to there...
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Sep 14, 2013 02:49
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Skinny Bins posted:And I used to live so close to there... It's 10 miles from where I live, I saw it on my local CL.
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Sep 14, 2013 03:01
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Hey woodworking thread, I have some questions. I have never done wood working before, but I need to learn some wood skills to use on my custom inlays for musical instruments and cufflinks. I just bought a beautiful slab of Chakte Kok to cut up, and I am not sure the best way to do it. I need to cut it in to ~1/2" discs, about .05" thick. Can I buy a hole saw drill bit to cut the circle? I can't have one that has the center guide, because the disc has to be solid. Does a hole saw leave the disc smooth enough, or would the edges be chipped and need a lot of finishing? I assume if I wanted say a 1/2" disc, I would have to buy a 5/8th bit or something to accommodate for the kerf? Is there a better way to get a disc? I went to an exotic wood store near me, but they didn't have any dowel scraps and I have no need for a 4' dowel, so buying dowel and cutting it is a last resort. I also was wondering what kind of clamps I should look at if I wanted to make a fancy inlay ie: a yin yang. Is there a small clamp that I can get that will clamp together round pieces so I can glue them and finish them? I was thinking maybe a collet would work from my metal lathe gear, but I don't really want to get glue all over my metal lathe stuff.
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Sep 16, 2013 01:44
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After almost sawing my shop stool in half I decided to build a saw bench from some leftover fir 2x4 studs. Still want to run a stretcher but it's sturdy as hell as-is. Brekelefuw posted:I need to cut it in to ~1/2" discs, about .05" thick. Can I buy a hole saw drill bit to cut the circle? http://youtu.be/4HQlgpxqz4A
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Sep 16, 2013 03:02
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plug cutter is also a thing: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H7693-Deep-Cutter-6-Piece/dp/B000E305CQ
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Sep 16, 2013 03:08
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wormil posted:After almost sawing my shop stool in half I decided to build a saw bench from some leftover fir 2x4 studs. Still want to run a stretcher but it's sturdy as hell as-is. I have a drill press, metal lathe, milling machine, band saw, and belt sander. I was going to use the drill bit on the drill press. I don't know how I would use the metal lathe to work on a slab, until I got a 4 jaw chuck to hold the piece. I will take a look at those plug cutters. Hopefully I can get a set locally. Thanks for the help guys.
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Sep 16, 2013 04:01
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Brekelefuw posted:Hopefully I can get a set locally.
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Sep 16, 2013 04:05
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For some reason my brain translated 1/2" disc into 4" disc so I didn't even think of a plug cutter. Also check ebay, I see a lot of used plug cutters sell cheap. If you do want to go bigger, make a glue block that you can hold with either your metal jaws or tap and screw directly to the lathe arbor (see my posts from this last week).
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Sep 16, 2013 04:57
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So, since the table was a (hard earned) success, I'm now going to make a bench for it as well. Finding the right design was tricky, having a 'rustic' table top with modern legs, but I really liked this one:  and decided to stea....erhh use that as inspiration  Legs/apron will be made from clear douglas fir. I was going to use basic douglas fir studs for the top but I bought a couple of already and they are rather rough (despite going through the whole stack). I may change to regular pine studs for the top instead. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 04:58
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Another day, another plane. 
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Sep 16, 2013 17:31
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wormil posted:
I started to suggest a glue block the other day, but forgot to do so. I saw you post on LJ's about this and it reminded me. You could use a glue block and simply not worry about getting it back out. Either use the same type of wood, or a contrasting wood. You most likely aren't going to get a seamless fit but you could get close enough so that a band of crushed stone or dyed epoxy around the seam wouldn't look out of place. You could pinch it between the headstock and tailstock with a jamb chuck to clean up the recess first if you wanted.
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Sep 16, 2013 18:34
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ChaoticSeven posted:I started to suggest a glue block the other day, but forgot to do so. I saw you post on LJ's about this and it reminded me. You could use a glue block and simply not worry about getting it back out. Either use the same type of wood, or a contrasting wood. You most likely aren't going to get a seamless fit but you could get close enough so that a band of crushed stone or dyed epoxy around the seam wouldn't look out of place. You could pinch it between the headstock and tailstock with a jamb chuck to clean up the recess first if you wanted. This is probably the way to go. I'm not in a hurry since the wood is already dry so I might build a set of cole jaws for my chuck so I can fix the bottom then glue in a paduak block.
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Sep 16, 2013 21:07
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Stavrogin posted:Wormil/carforum/chaotic, what do you think of the drying theory put forth by this guy- http://www.customwooddesign.com/turninggreenwood-1.html ? 1) That's what I've always used. Turn near finished size and in a week or so do a bit of finish work. Thin enough, it'll be drat near perfect. 2) http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/ or Bruce Hoadley's books. Basically treat all wood dust as really bad for your health. Wear an N99 or better respirator.
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Sep 16, 2013 21:55
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wormil posted:Here is a picture of the burl I've been working on. The problem is that it broke off my Nova chuck and I'm not sure how to remount it securely. I don't have a Longworth or similar so that can fix the bottom. Any ideas on that are welcome. The red spots are wormholes I filled with padauk dust and CA glue. http://bobhamswwing.com/Articles/No%20Chuck%20Bowl/Page%2011.htm Vacuum, friction or jam chuck. You can get a 4 jaw penn state industries economy chuck with faceplate for 90$ if anyone needs starter gear: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lathe-chucks.html
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Sep 16, 2013 22:02
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I am pretty excited, since we just bought a new house that has a huge basement to use as a woodshop. Also, we now live about 3 miles from Roy Underhill's Woodwright School, so I will be taking a class there this fall for sure! (probably this one) A quick question - how do you guys deal with sawdust in your workshops? I have always worked outside, but now that I will be setting up a shop indoors I don't want to flood the whole house with sawdust. Any recommendations?
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Sep 16, 2013 23:08
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The best thing you can do is to not use power tools. Power tools produce dust which gets everywhere, hand tools produce chips which fall on the floor. Assuming you still want to use powertools, though, get yourself a dust collector and run some tubes to the tools that need it most. I use this one from Harbor Freight because I found a sale that took it down to a hundred bucks or something, it seems to work fine, has good suction, although I can't run a 40' hose or anything. Between that and an active air filter (just as an example, here's a Jet) I think that's the most you can do. Any tools that have dust ports, always put a vac on them, passive dust bags are worthless (so your miter saw, sanders, etc.)
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Sep 16, 2013 23:17
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Be awesome too if you put the dust collector outside so you don't have to lug bags up the stairs and through the house. Miter saws and lathes will benefit from shrouds or hoods because they are particulary bad about throwing dust.
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Sep 17, 2013 00:42
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Also if it's outside, you don't have to listen to it. I'm still considering putting a little hut off the outside wall of my garage and punching a hole through the wall for just that reason. Well, that and to get the floorspace back.
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Sep 17, 2013 00:48
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| # ? May 16, 2024 23:55 |
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mds2 posted:Another day, another plane. That's a nice looking hand plane.
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Sep 17, 2013 03:02
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