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Castaign posted:On an unrelated note, how often do you all replenish or restock your clean up crew? For the past six months I've been wrestling with nitrates and hair algae, and I finally pinned it down to the fact that I've been running my 150 gallon with its original CUC for nearly three years. I just added in about fifty nassarius, fifty assorted astrea and cerinth, some sea cucumbers, a couple of fighting conchs (for those of you trying to find a solution for cyano I can't say enough good things about fighting conchs - they're the only animal I've ever had that actually seems to make a dent in the stuff), some emerald crabs and a handful of different hermits. The hair algae has cleared up by about 50% in three weeks, and nitrates are down from 10-15 ppm to about 5. Honestly I find that it's better to maintain the water quality differently than to band-aid with CUC after the fact. I have a 110 gallon and I've got: 1x cerith 3x strawberry tophat snails 10x astrea 5x (sorta like margarita snail, can't remember species now) 1x fighting conch 1x sand sifting star 5-10x small hermits (blue legs mostly) If you have too many CUC and they starve out and die they will pollute the tank. I've lost the odd snail/hermit over the last year but otherwise haven't changed it up much. Avoiding excess nutrients will go the furthest to clearing up hair algae. Cyano generally will balance out over time but it can be frustrating when present. I've done ~4 water changes in the last year of maybe 25% each tops, I try to just introduce as little excess as possible. I just got back from my honeymoon in Maui and ironically the one fish to die back at home was one of my Hawaiian ones (Lavender Tang).  I have no idea what could have happened, my parents didn't see any odd behavior and all the other animals are fine including much more sensitive species. I saw tons of awesome stuff while snorkeling including some big eels, sea turtle and a cuttlefish as highlights.Feeling inspired from that I picked up a new plate coral, some new zoas (my previous ones are starting to take hold way more than I anticipated and have gone from 5ish polyps to 300+. Got a new Starry Blenny and a beautiful Powder Blue Tang.
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Aug 27, 2013 04:08
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MKLKT posted:Honestly I find that it's better to maintain the water quality differently than to band-aid with CUC after the fact. I have a 110 gallon and I've got: I envy you your Hawaii trip and am sorry to hear about your Lavender. As far as cleanup crew, that seems really light for a 110, but it's obviously working for you. I tend to feed a bit heavier (lots of filter feeders and hungry corals) and I enjoy watching the CuC in any case.
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Aug 27, 2013 16:01
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Anyone use the nano or normal Tunze Osmolator? I bought a 3155 on impulse yesterday from Bulk Reef Supply to replace my aging Aquamedic
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Aug 31, 2013 18:44
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We have a nano Tunze Osmolator for my girlfriends 8g tank. It works great.
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Aug 31, 2013 18:52
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Just noticed my flameback angel looks rather tore up, missing parts of fins and his tail, but it looks like something is picking on him. Other inhabitants: YWG, 6-line wrasse, clown pair, mandarin. Anybody ever heard of any aggressiveness from any of these?
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Sep 1, 2013 03:29
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Unless you have large, mature clownfish, it's the six line.
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Sep 1, 2013 03:43
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Couple questions. I'm still a few weeks out from moving into my place and getting a tank. I've decided I want something from 50-120 gallons to start with. To make it as easy as possible to keep the water where I want it, I want a full overflow system (preferably center back) going into a good size sump with a protein skimmer that will fit inside the stand for the aquarium, which I also need. I'd like to put pumps pretty much everywhere except for the refugium to try and eliminate any dead spots where water doesn't flow and things can settle. I'd like to spend right around a grand on that. That seems to have limited me to craigslist and an online vendor named Glass Cages. Glass Cages seems like an incredible deal, but I've seen tons of reviews where the silicone failed and the tank became useless. I've also seen quite a few reviews from people who love their tank and wouldn't buy from anywhere else. Does anyone have any experience with Glass Cages, or recommend any other cheap vendors that offer reef ready aquariums with stands and sumps included? I'm also looking into what I'd eventually like to have. I see a lot about how lionfish and triggerfish aren't reef safe, but I see a lot of videos on youtube with them in reef aquariums. Is the reason that they aren't reef safe just because they like to rearrange the place every now and again? I saw a video of a guy who designed his live rock by sticking pvc pipe through them and then using silicon to attach that to the aquarium floor. Would doing something like that to secure everything allow you to keep corals and anemones with fish like that in there, or will they actually get bitten and thrown around? Lastly, I think with the fish I'm looking at, and with the advice I got earlier in this thread, my refugium is going to be extremely important. I'm having a hard time finding resources about what kind of options you have with one though. What types of algae you can put in there and what each bring to the table for your tank, that kind of thing. Any resources on that you guys could point me to?
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Sep 1, 2013 03:45
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I do have a large mature clown, two of them, you're probably right.
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Sep 1, 2013 03:52
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Volkerball posted:Couple questions. I'm still a few weeks out from moving into my place and getting a tank. I've decided I want something from 50-120 gallons to start with. To make it as easy as possible to keep the water where I want it, I want a full overflow system (preferably center back) going into a good size sump with a protein skimmer that will fit inside the stand for the aquarium, which I also need. I'd like to put pumps pretty much everywhere except for the refugium to try and eliminate any dead spots where water doesn't flow and things can settle. I'd like to spend right around a grand on that. That seems to have limited me to craigslist and an online vendor named Glass Cages. Glass Cages seems like an incredible deal, but I've seen tons of reviews where the silicone failed and the tank became useless. I've also seen quite a few reviews from people who love their tank and wouldn't buy from anywhere else. Does anyone have any experience with Glass Cages, or recommend any other cheap vendors that offer reef ready aquariums with stands and sumps included? If you're going with a big tank (75gal or above) you should just plumb with a big pump and multiple returns (i.e. more than 2-3) instead of using multiple in-tank pumps. It's cheaper to do it that way. At a later point you can upgrade the tank with a single wavemaker water-moving pump like a Vortech or the Chinese knock-off that people seem to like. No experience with Glasscages. Can't really say. Typically you wouldn't keep lionfish or triggers in a reef system because they eat ornamental and cuc inverts. Also, as big predators that eat a lot and poop a lot they generate a LOT of waste. Most of the time those guys are put in FOWLR tanks with only minimal reef corals--stuff that can handle higher nutrient loads. Reef tank stocking tends to go with nano fish, relatively few big fish. Mostly bigger reef fish stocking tends to be tangs. A single 50 can reasonably handle maybe one small tang (don't tang police me) depending on rockwork. A 120 might reasonably handle 3 of them--depending on their mutual aggressiveness. Mostly refugium algae selection is not important. If it's going to be a display fuge you may want to mix it up, but if it's just a export fuge you can't go wrong with just chaeto. As a display fuge I wouldn't do chaeto, but maybe like say, turtlegrass, gracilaria, etc., stuff that have holdfasts and grow from sandbeds or rockwork. VAGENDA OF MANOCIDE fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Sep 1, 2013 |
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Sep 1, 2013 06:21
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Good Buy Alert: THIS THING I love toadstools with good color contrast like this (i.e. not the ORA one)
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Sep 8, 2013 20:31
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api call girl posted:Good Buy Alert: THIS THING I love my toadstool but it's getting kind of big and needs to be fragged . Anyone ever fragged one of these? Also petco is running $1 a gallon sale
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Sep 9, 2013 23:11
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IIRC, slice it up, rubber band to rubble. Might wanna google that though.
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Sep 9, 2013 23:36
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WRT toadstool fragging--mine tends to frag themselves. It'll get "ingrown" and then cut a bit of itself off. I haven't had to trim severe overgrowth. Very convenient. But yes, just cut with your regular bonecutters or scissors.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:52
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Thoughts on Algaefix? The thread on RC about it has generally positive posts with some warnings. I'm trying to battle a green hair algae issue and I'd like to try this stuff. I've never dealt with it before and its really bumming me out. I'm guessing I've got too many fish in my tank and that is what is considering to the phosphate source. I guess 3 tangs will do that. I think I'm going to try a phosban or GFO reactor but I'd like to get rid of the existing stuff first.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:55
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3 tangs and not one of them will eat it? Ouch. Instead of using algaefix (not for use with crustaceans? warning bells) I would just siphon out whatever you can before using your filtration/export (GFO, pellets, whatever). VAGENDA OF MANOCIDE fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 01:13
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I too have a slight algae problem, not a takeover by any means, but splotches. Its like bryopsis with GHA at the tips, never seen anything like it. Manual removal and waterchanges aren't working because I can't get the holdfasts. I've got a tuxedo urchin, but he prefers coraline  .Is it worth looking into some sort of reactor?
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Sep 10, 2013 01:30
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Since I had a crash in April '12, I put in an algae scrubber. No more chemical filtration (GFO fucks with T. maxima clams, so that's a big no-no in my tank, no activated carbon which is associated with HLLE, etc.). In the tank (even before crash) I've variously had spots and/or epidemics of ulva growing from holdfasts (kind of nice and pretty), valonia, bry, pink cotton candy, standard hair, dinos, etc (I dip but I don't bother to QT). Now? Absolutely no algae whatsoever in the display. No cyano. No dinos. Even the xenia is dying off. Everything else looks healthy and the coralline has pretty much retaken xenia and algae ground. e:  My harvest, every 10 days. Approximately 4x6x2" volume, loose. Imagine siphoning that poo poo out of your tank. VAGENDA OF MANOCIDE fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 01:59
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I'll post the obligatory counter - I run both GFO and biopellets with excellent results. I don't have a clam or xenia but LPS in general look great and fully inflated; hard corals are growing like weeds. Bubble algae, red turf algae and bryopsis used to be my main problems but have had no issues for at least a year after putting the reactors online at proper dosage/amounts. I spot-treated with hydrogen peroxide once the reactors were established and that helped to quicken the demise of both turf and bryopsis. Plus, virtually no maintenance on reactors! GFO is replaced once every three months, biopellets topped-off every six months. I am a lazy reefer.
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Sep 10, 2013 02:54
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I'm not knocking those, they definitely work -- just that, just like algaefix, they have their contraindications. Depending on the tank I'd definitely consider their use, just that they're not right for mine.
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Sep 10, 2013 03:06
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Do you have any good links that show instructions on how to set up an algae scrubber? I wanted to try one but I'm not sure if I'll have the space in my cabinet. It really does seem like the best new thing. Just came across his thread on RC: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1977420 I think I will try this. What are you using for your canvas? visuvius fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Sep 10, 2013 |
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Sep 10, 2013 07:37
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Just a standard sewing/quilting grid. I had a bunch of them, bought a package when I was using them as intake guards for maxijets waaaaaay back when. The key is to rough it up a lot like the thread says.
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Sep 10, 2013 12:52
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Some of those algae scrubber setups look expensive to run. Multiple lights on 24/7 on a giant rack of algae growing above your tank. Not exactly pretty either. Though if you're in an area with strong sunlight maybe you could run an indoor/outdoor algae rack. 
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Sep 11, 2013 06:06
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SynthOrange posted:Some of those algae scrubber setups look expensive to run. Multiple lights on 24/7 on a giant rack of algae growing above your tank. Not exactly pretty either. Here is a simple upflow algae scrubber that can be run directly in your aquarium. UAS DIY build The basic idea is to have a air stone underneath the screen that creates a constant flow of oxygen rich water over the screen which is lit by a small refugium light shining directly on it from the side of the tank. You can make it as elaborate as you like by making custom light boxes and enclosures for the tank portion.
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Sep 11, 2013 13:58
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SynthOrange posted:Some of those algae scrubber setups look expensive to run. Multiple lights on 24/7 on a giant rack of algae growing above your tank. Not exactly pretty either. It's pretty much about as complicated and as expensive as you want it to be. For people who keep lighted refugiums it's probably not a significant increase in electricity usage or light spillage.
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Sep 11, 2013 14:18
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You don't want to keep it lit 24/7, though. Probably more like 18hrs a day. Depending on tank size, you could probably do fine with a couple CFLs, plus you won't use a skimmer so that's one less pump sucking electricty too.
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Sep 11, 2013 19:35
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I decided to build one of those updraft scrubbers in an empty chamber of my Biocube, so today, I pieced together a twin Cree XP-E 3W 660nm LED light for ~$30, and I already have an air pump, so I just need to find a smallish air stone, some mesh, some rare earth magnets, and a suitable light-proof container. And then I will begin growing unpleasantness.
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Sep 12, 2013 14:35
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I wanted to build a updraft version but I've only got like 6 or 7 inches of depth in my sump and for the size I would need I don't think it would work so I'm going to try the waterfall style. If I don't want to add yet another pump, can I plumb it into my return pump by using some kind of T connector or something? Also, the instructions I read say to cut a 3 mm slit across a 3/4" PVC and then to stuff and zip tie the mesh to it. Does everyone use a 3/4" ball valve to control the flow so water doesn't splash everywhere or is it not really an issue? How do you get the flow nice and even?
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Sep 12, 2013 17:51
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I use a ball valve and a second pump. If I went up a size on my return pump I could probably do both at the same time, but I didn't want to bother with that. The flow is nice and even across the slit because the pump fills the pipe so the slit is like a single exit hole, not sure how to explain it better.
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Sep 12, 2013 20:22
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Just stumbled across this thread and thought I'd share, The photos a little old but I'm in the middle of redesigning and changing stock so the tank looks pretty lovely right now.
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Sep 15, 2013 06:05
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Can somebody help advise on lights? I have a 36" rimless tank that I'm just starting as a marine tank. I'd like to find a cheap lighting solution to get going - normal output florescents would be fine for now, as I'm just planning on beginning with zoanthids and xenia. I can upgrade in the future.
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Sep 16, 2013 14:03
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First thing you wanna know when looking at lighting is that depth makes all the difference. If you're just keeping softies you won't need a stellar lighting system, your cheapest option would be a 36" t5 retrofit kit that you build a little enclosure for. However if you're looking for larger savings overall you may want to look into some of the LED PAR38 bulbs. They won't cost much more up front and a couple of solid PAR38's could cover your tank well. LED's are known to give out photosynthetic light equivalent to that of metal halides without the heat. The real advantage though would be the money you save not having to replace $80 in t5 bulbs about every 6 months. 3 watt LED's have something in the area of 50,000 hours of use before they blow out, so you can get near 10 years of life theoretically. In practice you see 3 year warranties on diodes quite often, and I expect mine to last somewhere around 5.
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Sep 16, 2013 15:50
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So the shop that I sold one of the flame tips to a couple years ago has been propping (or trying) and selling them on their site. I guess they're out of them because they just came by to ask me for more 
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Sep 16, 2013 17:27
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unprofessional posted:Can somebody help advise on lights? I have a 36" rimless tank that I'm just starting as a marine tank. I'd like to find a cheap lighting solution to get going - normal output florescents would be fine for now, as I'm just planning on beginning with zoanthids and xenia. I can upgrade in the future. theAsteroidBlues posted:First thing you wanna know when looking at lighting is that depth makes all the difference. If you're just keeping softies you won't need a stellar lighting system, your cheapest option would be a 36" t5 retrofit kit that you build a little enclosure for. I highly recommend going directly to LED over using T5s even temporarily; especially considering that you are trying to save money. The six-month replacement cycle on T5s is ruinously expensive and will trap you in a cycle of never having quite enough money to upgrade to a better fixture or even worse causing pest algae blooms when the spectrum degrades because you didn't replace the bulbs after six months. You will save money if you just buy a decent LED fixture up front and it is easier to save money before you set up the tank than after.
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Sep 17, 2013 21:23
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zhuangcg posted:I highly recommend going directly to LED over using T5s even temporarily; especially considering that you are trying to save money. The six-month replacement cycle on T5s is ruinously expensive and will trap you in a cycle of never having quite enough money to upgrade to a better fixture or even worse causing pest algae blooms when the spectrum degrades because you didn't replace the bulbs after six months. You will save money if you just buy a decent LED fixture up front and it is easier to save money before you set up the tank than after. This man speaketh the truth. LEDs are that good.
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Sep 17, 2013 21:46
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zhuangcg posted:I highly recommend going directly to LED over using T5s even temporarily; especially considering that you are trying to save money. The six-month replacement cycle on T5s is ruinously expensive and will trap you in a cycle of never having quite enough money to upgrade to a better fixture or even worse causing pest algae blooms when the spectrum degrades because you didn't replace the bulbs after six months. You will save money if you just buy a decent LED fixture up front and it is easier to save money before you set up the tank than after. Seconding (or rather thirding) this. LEDs are worth every penny of up front investment.
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Sep 18, 2013 02:22
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And for the cost of a good T5 fixture and bulbs (or just wee bit more) you can build an LED array with the same output and even make it dimmable!
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Sep 18, 2013 04:11
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Has anyone here ever dealt with plywood tanks? I was researching diy tanks just to see my range of options, and there were a lot of forum posts on enthusiast sites from people who seemed like they knew what they were talking about that basically said don't just up and try to silicone an aquarium together if you've never done it, idiot. Somewhere along the line though, I started looking into having plywood braces on the corners of the tank for stability, and then I found out you can actually build tanks with plywood as the main surface against the water, safely seal it, and just install viewing panels. That really caught my attention, because there was one build thread of a 300-some gallon freshwater tank, and he was able to actually mold his aquascape into the back panel since it can withstand uneven pressure better than glass or acrylic. Had huge branches that were sticking out of it and into the tank. Which means instead of having to form and glue down a heap of live rock in the middle of the tank and maintain a gap from all 4 sides, I could mold some into the back and let it flow from the back down into the center to make it look like the base of an underwater cliff. It's also much easier to silicone glass into a viewing panel then it is to silicone two edges of glass together. I plan on keeping as big a lionfish I can get, likely on its own, so I think that method would let me make a nice large cave that a full grown Volitan could fit into, while providing it with some good places to perch. It would also be convenient to custom make the dimensions to allow it to comfortably swim around around anywhere instead of having a tank that is 5 feet long, but only a foot and a half in depth. Plus it would allow me to build a custom sump with room for a big fuge and algae scrubber. I don't really have any questions right now, but I would be interested in hearing if anyone has had any dealings with this kind of thing before or has any comments. Edit: Here's the build I was referring to. http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/diy-aquarium-projects/81816-my-200-gallon-plywood-build.html   
Volkerball fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 12:08
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Thanks for the lighting advice. I have a 24" marineland led unit, which I know isn't gonna cut it, but I was just hoping to keep costs down, as the wife isn't thrilled about a bunch of purchases all at once. Might have to wait a few more paychecks to get everything I need, I guess. Volkerball, check out garf.org. They probably have the best instructions on plywood tanks, and are very well respected, despite the look of the site.
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Sep 18, 2013 12:14
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Got another flame tip up for sale, fucker took out 2 heads of my awesome frogspawn before I noticed it was on the run. This one is probably 6-8 inches across, its gargantuan. If anyone is interested we can work out some kinda price. I've got it listed for $450 on nanoreef because nanoreef, and the demand is huge there. You could keep it, split it, whatever. Its huge. I've shipped one before with good results, but it was stressful on me personally haha.
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Sep 19, 2013 08:26
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LFS is selling live rock for $6/pound. Is this a reasonable price?
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Sep 19, 2013 18:39
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