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XmasGiftFromWife posted:The city replaced some of the sidewalk and some idiot scratched "gently caress" in front of my house. Luckily it had already set some so the gently caress is more scratched on the surface (but still very much there. 10x so when wet.) This video might have the solution you're looking for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNWFE5UaTf4
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Sep 19, 2013 03:29
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:The city replaced some of the sidewalk and some idiot scratched "gently caress" in front of my house. Luckily it had already set some so the gently caress is more scratched on the surface (but still very much there. 10x so when wet.) When I worked for the park service here, we used to roll out wet cement with a paint roller to fill stuff like this. Once or twice we had to take a grinder to it and grind it down and fill the rest in with fresh cement. You can even use a quickcrete, which makes it even easier.
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Sep 19, 2013 19:24
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Killing Flies posted:When I worked for the park service here, we used to roll out wet cement with a paint roller to fill stuff like this. Once or twice we had to take a grinder to it and grind it down and fill the rest in with fresh cement. You can even use a quickcrete, which makes it even easier. I will give it a shot. Standard mix or a little wet?
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Sep 19, 2013 21:33
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I've got this closet door in my apartment that seems to be missing a knob on the outside part of the door (there is a knob on the opposite side). For most of my time here we didn't latch this door but a cleaner closed the door fully and latched it so now it's closed. I can't figure out how to open it. The credit card trick doesn't work since the flat side of the bolt is facing outwards. I can't get anything to hook around the sloped side of the bolt because there's molding on the other side of the door frame. I figure I must need to rotate something inside the knob mechanism itself but poking around in the knob with a screwdriver hasn't helped me to find anything useful. How do I get this thing to open? (hopefully short of taking a dremel to the bolt) Deus Rex fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 06:39
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Deus Rex posted:I've got this closet door in my apartment that seems to be missing a knob on the outside part of the door (there is a knob on the opposite side). For most of my time here we didn't latch this door but a cleaner closed the door fully and latched it so now it's closed. Hook a wire coat hanger around the sloped side of the bolt, position a credit card above it, and pull out on the hanger while sliding the card down to keep the bolt from springing back in. You might need to lean in against the door to keep the bolt from jamming.
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Sep 20, 2013 06:46
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thelightguy posted:Hook a wire coat hanger around the sloped side of the bolt, position a credit card above it, and pull out on the hanger while sliding the card down to keep the bolt from springing back in. You might need to lean in against the door to keep the bolt from jamming. I wasn't able to get this to work (I would be a terrible burglar), but I was able to jam a closed set of needle nose pliers into the spindle hole until it was snug and turn to open the door. Thanks for the help!
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Sep 20, 2013 07:25
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Usually a plain old number 2 pencil is the correct size and firmness to engage and turn the square bit inside a doornob.
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Sep 20, 2013 16:02
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:The city replaced some of the sidewalk and some idiot scratched "gently caress" in front of my house. Luckily it had already set some so the gently caress is more scratched on the surface (but still very much there. 10x so when wet.) First call the city and tell them to fix it.
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Sep 20, 2013 17:36
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Deus Rex posted:I wasn't able to get this to work (I would be a terrible burglar), but I was able to jam a closed set of needle nose pliers into the spindle hole until it was snug and turn to open the door. Thanks for the help! You got it. For most door latches, you stick something about the same size into the half-circle hole in the latch, then press bar in the flat side of the half-circle farther towards the flat side while pulling on the door. Usually some fingers under the bottom of the door work fine for the last part.
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Sep 20, 2013 18:28
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I have an electric Kenmore dryer that poo poo the bed. The drum turns, but it won't heat, or stop when the cycle is over. It runs until the door is opened. Some quick googling doesn't seem to show anyone else having similar problems. Anybody have any ideas on how I might be able to fix this myself? It's a Kenmore model number 11066512690 *edit* Any cycle, and no I took off the back of the dryer and found this:  That wire is mostly uninsulated, now, and covered in rust. I know enough about wiring to know I'm not gonna gently caress with it. Repair guy it is, I guess. Hayden fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 20:09
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Hayden posted:I have an electric Kenmore dryer that poo poo the bed. The drum turns, but it won't heat, or stop when the cycle is over. It runs until the door is opened. Some quick googling doesn't seem to show anyone else having similar problems. Anybody have any ideas on how I might be able to fix this myself? It's a Kenmore model number 66512690 Which cycle: timed or auto? Also, do you have a multimeter? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Sep 20, 2013 |
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Sep 20, 2013 20:12
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wormil posted:First call the city and tell them to fix it. Been there done that. Took 6 calls just to replace the broken sidewalk.
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Sep 20, 2013 20:20
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Been there done that. Took 6 calls just to replace the broken sidewalk. call a local news station and complain about how the city won't remove obscenities and won't somebody be concerned about the neighborhood children
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Sep 21, 2013 01:19
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Deus Rex posted:I've got this closet door in my apartment that seems to be missing a knob on the outside part of the door (there is a knob on the opposite side). For most of my time here we didn't latch this door but a cleaner closed the door fully and latched it so now it's closed. Take the pins out of the hinges.
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Sep 22, 2013 05:25
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dwoloz posted:Outdoor dusk-to-dawn porch light question: Well, I did it Very much a hack but I think it will work. Bought a cheap plug in timer and stuffed that, a plug and an led driver in to the fixture. All the stuff blocks a little bit of light but its still plenty bright for the small porch. Should save a ton of power also 
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Sep 22, 2013 18:09
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I've been having water softener problems for the last few months and thought I'd see if someone was familiar with it here. My water softener is older (I'm guessing at least 15 years or so) and every time it recharges, it's been overfilling the brine tank. It doesn't continue to fill it, it'll stop after about a gallon of water goes out of the overflow spout. I've read that this is usually a problem with the float mechanism in the tank, but would this ever be outside the brine tank and on the softener? The tank has a white cylinder that the water goes into, but I can't seem to get it off easily. If I follow the line back to the softener, it goes into a clear cylinder about the size of a medicine bottle with a ball floating in it. I'm thinking the problem might actually be something with this and I should start there with cleaning it. Any advice on what to do here? With it being as old as it is, I'm thinking it would be better to just replace the softener than call someone out for a service call, but if I can fix myself I'd rather do that.
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Sep 23, 2013 16:08
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In general it seems a lot of softener problems are solved by cleaning. But if that one is really 15 years old I'm gonna guess there are no parts available anymore, so I'd be very careful about disassembly.
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Sep 23, 2013 16:27
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I'd try cleaning it first. Like the poster above said, just be careful removing parts and make sure you put everything back the way it was. Take pictures if needed. If you can't fix it, you can easily replace it with a water softener from one of the big box stores.
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Sep 23, 2013 16:32
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Thanks, I'll give it a good clean this week and see if it improves. I did a little more searching this morning and it looks like the part I was pointing out is an air check and should be unrelated to the float.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:04
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How does one permanently remove pot smell from a home (recently purchased; no one will be smoking in the future)? Google only wants to tell me how to keep active, ongoing pot smoking under control.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:37
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rekamso posted:How does one permanently remove pot smell from a home (recently purchased; no one will be smoking in the future)? What kind of surfaces are you talking about? I assume that you've washed or ditched anything that can be like curtains, so that would leave hard surfaces and carpet. Carpet is probably the bulk of the issue (may be cleanable, may not), scrubbing the walls and painting as well as a duct cleaning (if you have forced air) should deal with the rest.
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Sep 23, 2013 18:04
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rekamso posted:How does one permanently remove pot smell from a home (recently purchased; no one will be smoking in the future)? Call around for smoke abutment quotes. They have the enzymatic cleaners and fans.
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Sep 23, 2013 18:57
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:I will give it a shot. Standard mix or a little wet? A little wet. You want it to flow a bit. Just don't drown it. rekamso posted:How does one permanently remove pot smell from a home (recently purchased; no one will be smoking in the future)? Smoke is a tough one. Most of the time, we just removed all carpet and used ozone, but I never felt like that was a very good solution. Aside form the health risks, it just never seemed to get it clean enough for me. I preferred to use this cleaner... It took some looking, but I can tell from the container that it's this brand. I wish I could remember which product it was exactly, but it's been about five years since I've used the stuff. Anyway, do some looking into these, because the one I used was the only thing that really worked very well. Bottom line though, you'll have to wash and/or steam clean everything, then use that stuff wherever you can. You'll also want to clean out the ventilation system wherever you can - returns especially.
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Sep 23, 2013 20:22
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I'm having trouble with a sewer-like smell coming out of my shower drain. I've checked the trap and it has water, cleaned it with baking soda and vinegar, and made sure that what I can see was cleaned and unclogged. The shower itself is an upright fiberglass model on the first floor, which is a concrete slab. The only thing I haven't checked yet are the vents on the roof because I don't want to die, though I probably will check them if it's a last resort. Are there any recommendations for me to try at this point? Fake edit: I'm also having a foundation repair person come out due to cracks in the door frame in the master bathroom where this shower is located. I'm afraid that it may be related to our foundation shifting (yay Texas!) so there may be plumbing issues related to this that I can't see. I'm wanting to try anything I can before calling a plumber, but I will if I have to. Just wanted to explore options I can do at this point.
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Sep 25, 2013 00:34
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Finally got two estimates for cutting holes in my roof and installing exterior vents for my two bathroom exhaust fans. $225 or $375, a little steeper than the $50/hole speculated earlier in this thread. The $375 guy said, "Labors very cheap on this. It's all material cost." So I guess he's using better vents than the $25 kits at home depot? Something about a flapper sealing tightly when the vent fans aren't running...
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Sep 25, 2013 00:53
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eddiewalker posted:Finally got two estimates for cutting holes in my roof and installing exterior vents for my two bathroom exhaust fans. How many stories house? Steep roof? Was this quote including hooking up the fans? Hagrid are you watering your foundation during summer? It is one of the little secrets no one bothers to tell you about tejas. EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 14:04
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eddiewalker posted:Finally got two estimates for cutting holes in my roof and installing exterior vents for my two bathroom exhaust fans. Here in Columbus found a guy who was willing to install 2 vents for $125 if I provided the vents. I would keep calling people. A roofer should be able to give you a ballpark quote over the phone if you tell them the roof material, slope and height.
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Sep 25, 2013 16:46
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HagridOfTheLibrary posted:I'm having trouble with a sewer-like smell coming out of my shower drain. I've checked the trap and it has water, cleaned it with baking soda and vinegar, and made sure that what I can see was cleaned and unclogged. Sometimes with stinky drains, I will take some boiling water, and pour it down the drain. It always does the job for me. However, I wouldn't recommend doing this if you have old plumbing, or lovely pipes.
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Sep 25, 2013 17:11
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Here in Columbus found a guy who was willing to install 2 vents for $125 if I provided the vents. I would keep calling people. A roofer should be able to give you a ballpark quote over the phone if you tell them the roof material, slope and height. Also ask contractors replacing roofs. I get my best deals just asking people around town doing work that looks decent. If they are close to you its free money to them. No extra trip, parts ready, done in 10 minutes.
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Sep 25, 2013 17:59
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I finally got the rest of that drat floor up. Only one of the joists looks badly hosed up. http://imgur.com/a/84kQa#5 The joist is about 7 inches tall, and the tape measure is there to show how much of it is missing. It would be hell to pull up the entire bathroom/bedroom wall, the big tub, and the floor to replace that joist. What other options do I have for fixing this? Can I reinforce the joist somehow? Also, the cheap fuckers who built this thing put fuckall insulation in the floors, so I'm going to get some floor insulation to stuff that with while I have it opened up.
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Sep 27, 2013 02:43
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I'm removing a interior door and putting up some drywall in its place, which should be easy enough. The problem is that i'd like to run some cables through my new wall and i cant seem to figure out what the best way to do it would be. All the info i can find seems to be for people who go full on cabling runs through their entire house with patch panels and the like. Easiest would probably be to just drill a hole through the wall but that would look like poo poo and i assume make sound travel through easily. Looking to get a hdmi, coax and a cat5e cable through about 20 cm of wall. Yellow Jesus fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Sep 27, 2013 |
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Sep 27, 2013 03:51
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Yellow Jesus posted:I'm removing a interior door and putting up some drywall in its place, which should be easy enough. The problem is that i'd like to run some cables through my new wall and i cant seem to figure out what the best way to do it would be. All the info i can find seems to be for people who go full on cabling runs through their entire house with patch panels and the like. Easiest would probably be to just drill a hole through the wall but that would look like poo poo and i assume make sound travel through easily. If I want to run cable between rooms with common walls what I have done before is cut a hole on either side of the wall then buy Keystone jacks and make or buy really short cables that fit in the wall behind the jacks. I think places like monoprice sell combo wall plates that can do the kinds of cable you mention as well as the short bits of cable that go in the wall. Home depot sells orange plastic things that fit into the hole you cut in the wall and you can screw a faceplate to it. I've only done this for cat 5 and cable but I don't see why it wouldn't work for hdmi too. Edit: found the hdmi one. http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/Product/Details/6852?mainCategoryId=104&categoryId=10426&subCategoryId=1042609 Squibbles fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Sep 27, 2013 |
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Sep 27, 2013 04:43
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Yellow Jesus posted:I'm removing a interior door and putting up some drywall in its place, which should be easy enough. The problem is that i'd like to run some cables through my new wall and i cant seem to figure out what the best way to do it would be. All the info i can find seems to be for people who go full on cabling runs through their entire house with patch panels and the like. Easiest would probably be to just drill a hole through the wall but that would look like poo poo and i assume make sound travel through easily. You can buy two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042509&p_id=3997&seq=1&format=2 and attach them to the wall with these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042507&p_id=7013&seq=1&format=2 You just cut a clean hole in the drywall, press in that bracket and screw the tabs in. They work great. You can get fancier with keystone plates attached to the same kind of brackets if you want. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6731&seq=1&format=2 Then you can pop in keystone ethernet "legos": http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051303&p_id=1044&seq=1&format=2 and these for your coax: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042605&p_id=6542&seq=1&format=2 but HDMI doesn't fit in a keystone hole, so you'd have to use a separate HDMI-only plate for that. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042501&p_id=7330&seq=1&format=2
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Sep 27, 2013 04:47
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Had a nice grease fire in one of my pans today while cooking and although at first I went to throw it in the sink and douse with water-luckily I remembered that water+grease fire=bad. Unfortunately, in my not thinking mode, I put it down on the ground for a second because it was burning my hand. The ground in question is a wood laminate floor-yep. Took it off there pretty quick after realizing this and moved it outside to the concrete. The floor isn't damaged too much surprisingly. It's got a small bit of bubbling on a portion, but that's it-not too noticeable unless you're looking for it. There's maybe 5-10 small bubbles. Anyways, any way you can think of to remove this? Sand it down a bit and then lacquer? Or is there something I'm missing/easier way to do it?
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Sep 27, 2013 04:52
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eddiewalker posted:
HDMI keystone jacks are available http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...CFfFj7AodjWMAAw
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Sep 27, 2013 12:29
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My front door is a bit annoying. It's plumb as far as I can tell, and none of the edges rub. However, the last 1cm or so of travel requires bit of force to get it to latch, and then it puts pressure on the door latch. This is a problem because I need to tug the handle shut a bit extra in order to get the deadbolt to lock (I'd like to install an electric auto locking deadbolt; but cant do this unless the door shuts cleanly). What would cause this? I'm thinking the hinges are almost just too bulky, but I have no idea either. Once I unlatch it and let it move that centimeter of play out, the door does not swing or move on its own at all.
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Sep 27, 2013 13:33
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ShadowStalker posted:HDMI keystone jacks are available Whoa. Thanks.
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Sep 27, 2013 13:36
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Hi guys I need some help with best practices on siding / stone work we had done recently. The stone guys applied a thin bead of caulk between the ledge and the siding. I looked good but after he left the job we noticed that there were a few gaps, which we pointed out to the general contractor. Since then he has tried to remedy this himself and match up the caulk type, color and application to the original work but he has failed miserably. He had the wrong color, the wrong type, poor workmanship, etc. In some spots it is cracking already. Finally we have told him that we want it all stripped out and re-applied. Does there need to be caulk between the siding and the stone ledge and if so what is the proper type? If it makes any difference our house is in North Jersey. I don't have a close up of the trouble spots at the moment but here is a shot of one general areas. 
tomapot fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Sep 27, 2013 |
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Sep 27, 2013 14:52
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Walked posted:My front door is a bit annoying. It's plumb as far as I can tell, and none of the edges rub. Is any weatherstripping pinching as you close it? Or the sweep on the bottom?
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Sep 27, 2013 14:52
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Can I use tie-plates to reinforce this joist? I was looking up ways to reinforce it and I don't think I can maneuver another full joist in there to sister it. Would I be able to use something like this on both sides of the joist instead? Or is there a specific type of plate I should be using for this?
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Sep 27, 2013 15:18
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