|
Lenins Potato posted:City side always starts on their side of the meter. I just looked at a side job where the city wanted a PRV (pressure reducing valve) installed before their meter due to high pressure (around 130 PSI). I called bullshit that the home owner should pay for this but they said it's not something they do and would give me written consent to do work before the meter. Either way I thought it was bullshit.
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 05:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 19:08 |
|
|
That sounds like complete bullshit. That is strictly a city problem. The municipals around here use Neptune meters, which are all generally good up to 150 psi. I'd look up the rating for their meter just in case. The city probably won't care though. A lot of my jobs are dealing with low pressure/flow on fire systems. Often enough, there isn't enough pressure coming in on the city side to meet the flow tests. The client will go back to the Fire Marshall with the news and usually get a break. But every now and then Fire Marshall will simply tell the client how much that sucks and they'll just need to get a pump house installed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 05:38
|
|
|
Lenins Potato posted:A lot of my jobs are dealing with low pressure/flow on fire systems. Often enough, there isn't enough pressure coming in on the city side to meet the flow tests. The client will go back to the Fire Marshall with the news and usually get a break. But every now and then Fire Marshall will simply tell the client how much that sucks and they'll just need to get a pump house installed. Marshal. One "l". And I'm the guy who does the latter. If you don't have the calculated flow rate your stamped and sealed engineering plans show, why should I pick up the liability that your engineer currently holds on the design by willfully allowing you to install the system out of spec? If the system doesn't actually need that designed flow rate but will work and pass local code on less, have your engineer prove it, document it, and seal it again so it's on his professional liability insurance. The entire purpose of my involvement in this process as a code official is to ensure 1.) the plans meet or exceed code 2.) the system is installed properly and to the designed specs. I get it that it's inconvenient for you and the home/business owner. But it's a fire protection system, not a hot tub or a shower head.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 15:37
|
|
|
This isn't on new installs. This will happen on systems that have been installed decades ago, but there will be a change on the city side. And yeah, I know a lot of sprinkler companies will lie on their yearly inspection reports and you won't know there is an actual problem until a new company comes out. So a client will have a perfectly good system until the city decides to expand but can't maintain pressure, which isn't the client's fault. But they will still be asked, sometimes, to put down 150-200k for a pump house. Another property had a pump, but the pressure would drop to 0 psi at the meter when a hydrant was being flowed. The The city's tap was so corroded the 8 inch line was getting sucked dry as soon as the pump kicked on. They had to pay 25k to the city for a new tap and 15 feet of pipe. Plus whatever they had to pay the contractor to bring it in from there. I don't see why anyone should have to be responsible for a change in conditions on the other side of the meter. Lenins Potato fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 17:36
|
|
|
Lenins Potato posted:This isn't on new installs. This will happen on systems that have been installed decades ago, but there will be a change on the city side. And yeah, I know a lot of sprinkler companies will lie on their yearly inspection reports and you won't know there is an actual problem until a new company comes out. Well, those situations suck and I agree they shouldn't have to pay for a change on the other side of the meter. This is what civil litigation (against the municipal water authority) is for. I don't see how allowing the existing system to stay in an underperforming state is any kind of answer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 17:55
|
|
|
A lot of times they know it's not an isolated problem. Sometimes even city hydrants on the same main won't have great flow either. So usually the cheaper option is to just live with it, as far as the city is concerned. Each county and city in the area is different. But in that kind of situation, 70% of the time, they're willing to just let it go. What's really scary is there is one 35+ story tower that can only pass their flow inspection if it's done after midnight. The city knows and had deemed that ok.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2013 18:36
|
|
|
I want to run water out across my yard to some planters I'm putting in. It's about 50 feet from the outside faucet at this time. 1) What's the right kind of pipe to use for direct in-ground installation? 2) How deep do I have to go? Assume I'll blow the line every fall. 3) What's the best way to tap into the existing line at the house? The basement is only 2/3 in the ground, should I just run another line out next to the existing faucet and have it then dive directly into the ground? 4) At the planter end, what's the best way to mount a faucet? I'm thinking drive a 4x4 into the ground as a post and just have a pipe coming up strapped to that post with a faucet on there. 5) Anything I might not have thought of here? I can post pics with lines on them if it helps.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 19:05
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I want to run water out across my yard to some planters I'm putting in. It's about 50 feet from the outside faucet at this time. I typically 3/4" well line. It's cheap and tough. Bad Munki posted:2) How deep do I have to go? Assume I'll blow the line every fall. Doesn't much matter if you're blowing it out (and you should). 12" should be fine. Bad Munki posted:3) What's the best way to tap into the existing line at the house? The basement is only 2/3 in the ground, should I just run another line out next to the existing faucet and have it then dive directly into the ground? I would excavate to the level you are laying the line and go through the basement wall, then to an appropriate pipe and put in a T with a shut off and a 3/4" barbed adapter (or whatever size you're using). Bad Munki posted:4) At the planter end, what's the best way to mount a faucet? I'm thinking drive a 4x4 into the ground as a post and just have a pipe coming up strapped to that post with a faucet on there. You can do that, or you can bury everything below the frost line and put in a yard hydrant (the faucet on a pipe thing). Back fill a bit and then dump a bag or two of quickcrete in the hole, then back fill the rest of the way. But that my be more than you're willing to get into. But you wouldn't need to blow it out in the winter, which is nice. Bad Munki posted:5) Anything I might not have thought of here? I can post pics with lines on them if it helps. Other than going all out and doing it below the frost line, you got it. Just make sure you have a shut off. And get the kind with a bleeder so you can easily attach air to the outside faucet and blow it back into the basement, or adapt air to the bleeder and blow the other way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 22:40
|
|
|
I like not having to blow the faucet each fall, that'd be a far better plan for someone like me. However, I also don't want to tear up my lawn more than I have to. I know I can get a ditch digger that makes a trench 8" deep and 2" wide. It sounds like if I want to go any deeper, I have to go up to 6" wide, which would be a shame. I guess I could also get a sod cutter and peel up the grass first. As for the point where the pipe hits the house, my only reluctance there is that it'd mean I'd have to run a pipe down the wall in my basement. Right now, the joists are just at the right height such that all the utilities come in from outside between the joists, no holes in the block wall. But I guess if I want to go below the frost line as you suggested (which I really really do like) I don't have any choice in that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 23:47
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I like not having to blow the faucet each fall, that'd be a far better plan for someone like me. However, I also don't want to tear up my lawn more than I have to. I know I can get a ditch digger that makes a trench 8" deep and 2" wide. It sounds like if I want to go any deeper, I have to go up to 6" wide, which would be a shame. I guess I could also get a sod cutter and peel up the grass first. Yes, cut sod. It's not a big deal. It's also the right time of the year to start some new grass. Also, don't sweat the block wall penetration. Just use some hydraulic cement (I like UGL DryLoc) and it will be just fine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 23:49
|
|
|
It's more the cosmetics I care about. I'm a total sperg on stuff like that: partly because that's just how I am, and partly because this house is only 6 years old and as such is in really good shape.  And I actually use my basement for my bar, poker table, and "indoor projects" workbench, so I don't want anything unsightly coming down the wall.  e: I guess I could do it in the corner over by the washer/dryer, I never look in that direction anyhow. So how do I find where the frost line is in my area, anyhow? Just ask around? Also, what's the number you call to have wire location done? 911? 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Sep 24, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 23:57
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:so I don't want anything unsightly coming down the wall. Sorry, but if you can still see block it's already unsightly down there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2013 00:01
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:and "indoor projects" workbench, aka this chair.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2013 00:14
|
|
|
Hahaha, I'd like to...I'm not set up to mold hard rubber. No, it's for stuff like painting and soldering assembling and the like. It's my "clean" workbench:  As opposed to the shop, which is a perpetual loving disaster. Here it is after an entire day spent cleaning it up with my wife's help:  Motronic posted:Sorry, but if you can still see block it's already unsightly down there. It may be an unfinished basement, but at least it doesn't look like an industrial disaster. I'd consider finishing it, but I'd want to wall off the utilities and I'm not sure that would leave me with much space. The house is a split level so it's not a full-size basement. v  v
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2013 01:12
|
|
|
Oh, one thing I forgot: I like the yard hydrant option and going below the frost line, but the main reason I intend to run water out there is so I can have some automatic watering going on. At the same time, I'd like to NOT have a hose coming off my faucet to the watering system so that I can use the faucet like one normally would without disrupting my setup. With that in mind, I'd like to run some pvc or something just barely underground between the planter beds and then back to the water supply, and have a separate attachment point for those lines. Because of that, I assume I'll basically have to blow the line anyhow, right? Or at least, the part of it that's shallow, so the part between the source (at the garden) and the actual irrigators. So the question is, what are my options for tying into something like a yard hydrant without actually tying up the hydrant all the time? I'm probably not describing this very well. Oh look, Google's aerial view is actually fairly recent, I'll make a picture:  A is the current exterior faucet (pink) and where I would most likely be coming through the wall. Maybe 15 feet closer to the garden depending on where I punch through, but still somewhere along that wall. Cyan is the underground supply line. That's the one I'd be cutting sod and using a ditch digger for. Preferably below the frost line so I don't have to blow the entire thing. B is the garden. I would like one of those freeze-proof yard hydrants there (again in pink) and I would like it to remain available at all times. The green line is a supply line to the various planter beds. The red lines are small 1/4" flexible hosing that goes to spot irrigators as needed. I would like the green line to be controlled by an electronic valve that I can put on a timer or controlled by some more involved mechanism. So with that in mind, I'll need to run some low voltage stuff out there, gently caress. So here's what I'm thinking: 1) At A, dig down below the frost line and go through the block wall at that depth. Put a shutoff inside the house with a bleeder just in case. 2) Dig a trench below the frost line from A to B and lay pipe and any needed electrical. 3) Install a T below the frost line at B. 4) Install a yard hydrant above the T at B. 5) Install some sort of bleeder or manual shutoff off the T at B, again below the frost line. 6) After the shutoff from (5), install an electronic valve. 7) After the electronic valve from (6), run some pvc or whatever out to the planters as needed. Then, come fall, I'd shut off the manual valve from (5) and blow everything after that, meaning just the green/red lines, but not the main supply line (cyan). Fake edit: But wait, that won't really work, (5) through (7) are sort of flawed. I was picturing having my T below the frost line and the manual shutoff right there off the T, but that'd mean I'd have a shutoff at the bottom of a 2 foot hole, and that would become a 2 foot bucket of water in about a week's time. So then I think, "Okay, so have the T, and then run something up closer to the surface to have your access, and go from there." But then I think, "Uhh, then I've got non-blown line well above the frost line." Like so:  Cyan is again the supply line from the house, the tall pink one is the yard hydrant, the small pink one is the manual shutoff, the black is the electronic valve, green is the supply to the beds, and red is the spot irrigation. But obviously where the access is for the manual shutoff/e-valve to the beds is at, there's a freezing issue even though I can blow the line back to the shutoff. I suspect I'm deeply over thinking this. Am I better off just blowing the whole drat thing and not worrying about all this frost line/freezing stuff at all? Then I could do it just like that picture but with the supply line coming in at a much shallower depth (or maintaining the depth but still blowing it anyhow.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2013 04:08
|
|
|
Ok so I just lifted up my toilet to try and replace the wax ring and I didn't like what I saw. The wax ring has probably been leaking for some time although I was slow realize the correlation between flushes and the leak. Anyway, this is what I saw. The flange and maybe the pipe is heavily corroded. I didn't do a lot of inspection but obviously I'm worried about rot in the floor as well from the leak (I haven't seen issues with the ceiling below). It's a 1920's house and the drain pipes are probably original cast iron. So I have zero plumbing experience, what am I looking at here? Normal corrosion wear/tear or a potential massive problem? I'd like to have some idea before calling anyone? \/\/ No the floor wasn't noticeably sunken or soft. 
asdf32 fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Oct 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2013 02:39
|
|
|
Is your floor soft or sunken around your toilet? If your floor is rotted and sinking, you'll need to fix that first.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2013 02:43
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:Ok so I just lifted up my toilet to try and replace the wax ring and I didn't like what I saw. Having little experience myself; the first thing I'd suggest is cleaning off the old gasket so we can see what the pipe looks like and then we can suggest a plan of attack. If the pipe is in good shape you might just need a new gasket (just make sure you get one the right size). If the pipe is wrecked, you might be in for some not so fun times replacing a portion of it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2013 15:32
|
|
|
I had a similar issue with my old toilet, do you have access to the pipe below? Does it go straighy down? If yes get a short piece of pvc drain pipe a fernco flexible rubber adapter and a new flange. Also get new bolts pcv glue set (clear and purple) and a new wax ring. Cut the old pipe at a straight down point you can reach and use the pieces to put a new flange down. It will be easir than trying to wrestle the old rusted iron. And as long as you have access to a sawzall probably quicker.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2013 18:31
|
|
|
Wanted to stop in to say thanks: my dig went fine and I laid pipe in yesterday. Got a hole through the block wall, closed it up with hydrocement, everything seems to be in order. I haven't hooked it up to the supply line yet, but I will before I kick the dirt back in so I can pressure test it. And in the mean time, to keep any critters and water out, I just glued a cap on the far end of the pipe. I'll probably hook up the supply line today and then figure out what exactly I want to do for a faucet later this week.  Also, going to try to get a semi-permanent connection for air inside the house on the supply line so I can easily blow it from there. Of course that'll be isolated from water by another shutoff, but since I'm going to be installing compressed air through my garage soon anyhow, I'll just run another line across the ceiling of the basement and all I'll have to do is open that valve and the garden faucet to blow the line.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:20
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Wanted to stop in to say thanks: my dig went fine and I laid pipe in yesterday. Got a hole through the block wall, closed it up with hydrocement, everything seems to be in order. I haven't hooked it up to the supply line yet, but I will before I kick the dirt back in so I can pressure test it. And in the mean time, to keep any critters and water out, I just glued a cap on the far end of the pipe. I'll probably hook up the supply line today and then figure out what exactly I want to do for a faucet later this week. You may want to look into putting a check valve before that shutoff to insure that you don't ever accidentally get water into your compressed air system by forgetting to shut it off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 17:35
|
|
|
Yeah, I was just sort of glossing over/broadstroking the isolation of the air system from the water system. Have no fear: I am nothing if not cautious! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 17:48
|
|
|
I'm going to be adding a powder room into my basement over the weekend and had a question about the workflow. It is a concrete floor. Do you lay the pipe out in the rough shape, break the concrete out, cut/dry fit then tap into the existing sewer line? I am just concerned about the angle coming off the existing line not lining up perfectly, and of course I don't want to break up more floor than I have to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 12:27
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:I'm going to be adding a powder room into my basement over the weekend and had a question about the workflow. It is a concrete floor. Do you lay the pipe out in the rough shape, break the concrete out, cut/dry fit then tap into the existing sewer line? I am just concerned about the angle coming off the existing line not lining up perfectly, and of course I don't want to break up more floor than I have to. Is your sanitary sewer line below grade level already? Typically in basement powder rooms I see a grinder pump to deal with the lift required.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 17:03
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Is your sanitary sewer line below grade level already? Typically in basement powder rooms I see a grinder pump to deal with the lift required. Yes, I opened the cleanout by where the sewer line exits the house and the pipe is approximately 3' below the grade. I should have lots of room to properly slope the new piping.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 19:22
|
|
|
In that case, yeah....that's a reasonable way to go about it. But what do you mean by this:sirr0bin posted:I am just concerned about the angle coming off the existing line not lining up perfectly You're going to have to cut the existing line and put a T into it. Make sure you point it in the proper direction........ I must be missing something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 19:27
|
|
|
Motronic posted:In that case, yeah....that's a reasonable way to go about it. But what do you mean by this: My question I guess is do people typically cut into the existing line, install the wye and plumb from there or do they install all the piping first and put in the wye last? I am sure I'm overthinking things. An hour or whatever of sewer gas while pipe is installed shouldn't be a big deal. Just stinky.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 23:13
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:My question I guess is do people typically cut into the existing line, install the wye and plumb from there or do they install all the piping first and put in the wye last? If you are doing what you are doing, you are at least cementing the T/Wye second to last (the last cemented connection will be from your new run). Yes, you are over thinking this. It sounds like you know how it needs to go. Just think a few steps ahead while you are doing it and you won't screw yourself. And even if you do.....it's just plastic pipe...it's all fixable. You're gonna be fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 01:56
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If you are doing what you are doing, you are at least cementing the T/Wye second to last (the last cemented connection will be from your new run). Hey thanks for the replies, I am sure it'll all work out!
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 12:27
|
|
|
I've got a slow floor drain I was using to drain the A/C condenser and a dehumidifier. I tried to snake through the trap but had a hell of a time making the corner. I would like to go through the clean out but it's horribly rusted and I've given it about half a bottle of liquid wrench and it shows no signs of budging. Any ideas?
ManDingo fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Oct 12, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 21:23
|
|
|
ManDingo posted:I've got a slow floor drain I was using to drain the A/C condenser and a dehumidifier. I tried to snake through the trap but had a hell of a time making the corner. I would like to go through the clean out but it's horribly rusted and I've given it about half a bottle of liquid wrench and it shows no signs of budging. Any ideas? Heat. (for getting the clean out loose). When penetrating lube doesn't work it's time for the torch. Even a propane torch would be likely to help a whole lot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 00:20
|
|
|
Getting a bit tired of this. I've tried multiple times now to get this copper->pvc working, and each time, it springs a leak at the adapter. Furthermore, I learned tonight that because pvc isn't acceptable for potable water, I have to put a check valve on the copper portion before it hits pvc. I was going to put in a check valve, but partway along the pvc before it left the basement, but turns out that's too late, so I need to do some refiguring. Between that, rigging up air to blow the line, and the huge (and rapidly-becoming-more-expensive) adapter issues, I'm on the verge of just saying gently caress it and converting the whole thing to pex. Unfortunately, while I had multiple people recommend pex, none of those recommendations came until AFTER I'd put in all the pvc. The pex I need will cost me about $30, which is just fine and dandy. I'd need a connector to mate the pex to copper, those are like $7. Lastly, I'd need another fitting to connect the pex to the faucet I have at the garden, that's like another $5. I already have any additional copper fittings/pipe I would need (like one extra elbow and some 1/2" pipe.) That puts me at about $50 to redo the whole drat thing right. The pvc I'd be yanking would be about $25, plus another $15 worth of fittings. The fittings are trashed, but I'd easily make use of the pipe. SO! Let's talk about pex. 1) I'm thinking 1/2" pex. It's a 100' run. I've used 1/2" hose previously and the flow was fine, so I'm thinking the same should be true of pex as well, at least, if not better. 2) Does the color matter? I assume they're supposed to represent hot/cold. This is for a cold-only irrigation system, so blue I guess, but there's also white? 3) Are the quick-connect fittings fine, or should I use something else? I need whatever fitting I use to go from copper to pex. 4) I also need to go from the pex to the faucet. I found a right-angle fitting that's quick-connect on one side and threads on the other, so I think that's what I need at the faucet. 5) My understanding is that pex can freeze willy nilly. However, I also read that those quick-connect fittings don't handle that so well. They might not break, but maybe the pex will pop out? Any concrete info on this? 6) And speaking of concrete, I read that pex isn't supposed to be in concrete? I need to go through a block wall. What's the correct way to do so? I have a pre-existing 1 1/16" hole that was for pvc, but I might not mind patching that over with hydrocement and putting a new hole in a less conspicuous location. I guess for the pex to go through the block wall I need some sort of sleeve? 7) Lastly, instead of actually blowing it, I have a drainage tile and drain system about 2 feet from the (roughly) lowest point in the run, I'm thinking about just putting in a T and running a line over into the drain and having a little shutoff valve there. Then I'd be able to gravity drain the system without needing air OR an extra access tile in my lawn. Thoughts on this? I'm going to go talk to the people at Carter Plumbing tomorrow, they seem pretty knowledgeable and have a good supply of parts for me to fondle, but I'd like to take as much knowledge with me as I can. Also, I'll post pics of a couple specific parts tomorrow once it's light out to hopefully make things more clear if needed. Thanks in advance for any help on this. It'll be a little bit of a bummer if I decide to retool this whole thing, but I suspect that if I do it the right way now, I'll be a LOT happier with it come winter and, more importantly, spring. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 01:58
|
|
|
You can use PVC on potable water. It's used all the time. They even use it on water mains. You can't use PVC for hot water, but you can use CPVC on hot water. What kind of coupling are you using for the PVC to copper? Compression, quick connect? Compression couplings tend to do really well, but if you have soft copper and tighten them down too fast and hard, it can make the copper lose its shape and cause a leak. As far as I know, PEX can be concreted in. When go through the wall, you might want to a short piece of larger diameter pipe as a sleeve. So if you have to replace the line, you can just pull some more pipe through the sleeve and not redrill the wall. Not sure if you're too far along for this though. I wouldn't worry about the joints freezing and popping out if you get the water out of the line. If you can get the line to drain out with gravity alone, I would do it. Just don't use a ball valve for it, because the ball valve will trap a little water in the ball, freeze, and break the valve. Lenins Potato fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Oct 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:24
|
|
|
Lenins Potato posted:You can use PVC on potable water. It's used all the time. They even use it on water mains. You can't use PVC for hot water, but you can use CPVC on hot water. Yes, PEX can be concreted in. The radiant heating installed in concrete is usually PEX unless they use the electric mat types.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:27
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Yes, PEX can be concreted in. The radiant heating installed in concrete is usually PEX unless they use the electric mat types. You're missing a very important detail: PEX for radiant heat in concrete is not the PEX you typically buy for running potable water. It is PEX with an oxygen barrier. That being said, the question isn't really about that - he just needs a wall pass-through which should be sleeved and not in direct contact with any hydraulic cement or whatever used to patch the wall.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:44
|
|
|
The pvc with potable water thing must have been someone not being detailed enough about hot vs. cold, so that's good to know. Also good to know about the concrete. I was really just googling around trying to pick up whatever info I could find. I suspect large parts of it were lacking context or details. As for the copper to pvc connection, I was using a 1/2" sweat to 3/4" thread male copper fitting, and a 3/4" female threaded coupling. Turns out I was doing that part backwards: you're supposed to use copper on the outside and pvc on the inside. The way I was doing it was destined to fail eventually. However, in my case, it was leaking immediately, and I tried it twice. The first time with tape, the second time with paste. I also read that I should have been using both tape and paste for a change in material, which I hadn't tried yet. Each time I do this, though, I have to replace a couple parts, and the female copper fitting I should be using instead of the male one is also another $7. I was told (and the packaging all agreed) that those quick connect fittings aren't for pvc, just cpvc. As for using some pvc as a sleeve when going through the wall: I'm coming out of the wall below grade, so I don't want any open space around the pex where water can drain into my wall or basement. I'll gladly accept the (probably pretty low) risk of having to redrill in exchange for a not-ruined wall. Motronic posted:That being said, the question isn't really about that - he just needs a wall pass-through which should be sleeved and not in direct contact with any hydraulic cement or whatever used to patch the wall. At this point, I think I'm looking at <$50 to do it all in pex, I'm pretty okay with that unless there's any huge reason not to. The cost of the pvc I'd be yanking out would probably be one of my cheaper mistakes (and the pvc pipe itself will still be totally usable except I'll lose a couple inches off the end of each 10' length.) The only other potentially-critical detail I can think of is that it'll be buried about 8" below the surface for a hundred feet in clay-heavy soil, not a lot of rocks or anything. Thanks again for all the advice, I'm learning a lot here.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:47
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Is a sleeve like you mention going to be water-tight? Like I said, this is coming through below grade. Well, that's up to you I'd suggest using something that has an ID only slightly larger than the OD of the PEX and seal it using a butyl rubber sealant on both sides of the sleeve. Seal the sleeve into the wall penetration using hydraulic cement. This is far from the only way that will work for your situation, but it's what I'd be likely to do.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 04:11
|
|
|
Choices choices choices!  As always, I'll probably feel more comfortable doing a thing once I've had a chance to hold parts in my hands. Fondling always makes it more apparent what I need to do: I'm a very tactile thinker. I'm so fed up with this pvc to copper poo poo that even if gender-swapping my fittings would fix it, I kind of just want to do it with the pex because it'd be "better" and I'd have far fewer fittings and the ones I did have would be waaaaay easier to replace in the event of a failure.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 04:16
|
|
|
If pex is going to be easier to put together, go for it. There isn't really any reason not to, especially if you don't mind scrapping the PVC you've put in the ground. You can waterproof the sleeve any way you want. It's just there to make it really convenient if you ever needed to replace the line.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 04:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 19:08 |
|
|
Motronic posted:You're missing a very important detail: PEX for radiant heat in concrete is not the PEX you typically buy for running potable water. It is PEX with an oxygen barrier. Not missing an important detail really, it's the same tubing with an oxygen barrier and regular PEX can still be buried in concrete. See link http://www.apollopex.com/faq Can PEX Pipe be buried under Concrete? Yes. However, all fittings MUST be outside the concrete. You are just asking for trouble using a sleeve and trying to waterproof it
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 05:12
|
|