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If its a deck that's the hold up for you I think I still have a few mp3 cd headunits in the garage that I won't be using again. I have a ton of poo poo that I need to clear out before I move including a bunch of subs and boxes and poo poo. I have not got any interest when i have posted stuff for sale either. I probably have most of the stuff to get I decent system together that you can have if you will use it. I will be driving the crown vic out to AL and have plenty of space to take it with me and since I will be coming back on I10 which means I will be in your area to drop it off in a few weeks. My goal is to get my fiat back in the garage before I leave this week so I can figure out exactly what I have as I clean and organize.
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Sep 15, 2013 16:20
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Yeah, as long as the outlet is tied to accessory it'll work. Although honestly you could probably get the stereo out by pulling on the console trim panel and undoing four 7mm bolts (don't do this without confirming) but it miiiight turn on through GMLAN. I can look it up if you want. Played around with the new Sony head units and the remote app works nicely. Source selection, radio tuning, volume control, EQ control and you can add your own apps on the dashboard. Would work really nicely for a hidden installation; just mount the aux and usb ports, use a phone holder and just don't use the cd player. Will probably do that in the Miata and Mini. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Sep 15, 2013 |
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Sep 15, 2013 16:54
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Alright so I went out and bought an amp and sub off of craigslist for my 91 Integra. For $45 I got a 12" Infinity sub in a ported Bassworx Box and for $75 I got an Alpine MRD-m300 mono amp. Hopefully this should do the trick. Here's a photo of the sub that takes up pretty much the whole trunk. 
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Sep 15, 2013 18:47
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quote:stuff about turning on amps without running a power lead from the deck There are some line level -> amp converters that support something like that, like the Audiocontrol LCQ-1 might do it: GTO (Great Turn-On) Circuit: The main speaker level inputs have a signal sensing circuit (GTO) that turns the unit "On" when there's a speaker level input signal, and turns the unit off when the signal disappears. I'm sure not sure how well that'd work though :/
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Sep 16, 2013 19:53
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originalnickname posted:There are some line level -> amp converters that support something like that, like the Audiocontrol LCQ-1 might do it: Why not just use an appropriately sized relay with the amp(s) on the load side and the antenna power lead from the radio on the signal side?
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Sep 16, 2013 19:58
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Holdbrooks posted:I have never heard of a way to do remot turn on with a factory deck. The only thing I can think or would be to tap in to the backlight of the radio display and a relay if it turns off with the stereo. But that would be a lot of work, and risk damaging something opening it up like that. I would just do an ACC wire. You could always l add a switch if it hums with radio off while driving also. Some do. The Fairlane does. It has a factory amp behind one of the side panels in the boot (trunk) that is controlled by the stereo. I'd like to believe some sneaky engineer managed to put that functionality in to a lot of OE decks but otherwise you are poo poo out of luck. You could always do an accessory circuit powered switch for the sense for the amp so it can't be left on with the key out and you can kill it while driving if you want. e: There was another page?
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Sep 17, 2013 01:16
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Holdbrooks posted:If its a deck that's the hold up for you I think I still have a few mp3 cd headunits in the garage that I won't be using again. I have a ton of poo poo that I need to clear out before I move including a bunch of subs and boxes and poo poo. I have not got any interest when i have posted stuff for sale either. I probably have most of the stuff to get I decent system together that you can have if you will use it. I will be driving the crown vic out to AL and have plenty of space to take it with me and since I will be coming back on I10 which means I will be in your area to drop it off in a few weeks. I may take you up on some of that actually, if you wind up on I-20 or I-30 anyway. Or hell, I've been itching to take off to Austin and San Antonio again, that'd give me an excuse for a road trip. Lemme know what you have and how much you want for it, once you get everything cataloged. I don't think my garage has seen a car in about 2 years.  Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Yeah, as long as the outlet is tied to accessory it'll work. Although honestly you could probably get the stereo out by pulling on the console trim panel and undoing four 7mm bolts (don't do this without confirming) but it miiiight turn on through GMLAN. I can look it up if you want. Seeing as the the harness I need is named GMOS-LAN-06....  I don't necessarily have to use that harness, unless I want to keep OnStar (which I do) and want to keep retained accessory power (ditto).The power outlets tripped me out at first - the front one is constantly powered (and if the fuse blows, it takes out the OBD2 port). There's one in the back seat that's switched with accessory/retained power. I've never even seen a power outlet in the back seat of an economy car before..  Motronic posted:Why not just use an appropriately sized relay with the amp(s) on the load side and the antenna power lead from the radio on the signal side? No antenna power lead on the factory head unit (in my case). Also, the amps have built in switching, they run off of the remote lead from an aftermarket head unit (or power antenna lead from a factory unit, if the antenna stays up while on CD or aux).
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Sep 17, 2013 02:34
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Hey STR, if getting a new amp is an option, there are some that are activated by the audio signal itself, maybe look into one of those.
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Sep 17, 2013 06:35
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I have a 12" Kicker L7 08S12L74 in a folded horn box. The amp I am using now is garbage, some Soundstorm 500x2 bridged POS. I want a cheap monoblock. Looking on sonicelectronix I found this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44671_Boss-AR1500M.html Is it total poo poo too or would this be a tremendous upgrade for the sub? Sub specs state 750w RMS 1500w peak, dual 4ohm voice coil.
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Sep 18, 2013 02:46
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Nait Sirhc posted:I have a 12" Kicker L7 08S12L74 in a folded horn box. The amp I am using now is garbage, some Soundstorm 500x2 bridged POS. I want a cheap monoblock. Looking on sonicelectronix I found this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44671_Boss-AR1500M.html I don't know about their amps.... But their head units are absolute poo poo. Absolutely nothing redeeming about them.. Fwiw I had a this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11795_Kenwood-KAC-9104D.html when I had my L7. And it sounded amazing. It's now discontinued, but check out eBay or Amazon. Or I could even check my garage to see if I still have one or both of the ones I had.
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Sep 18, 2013 04:40
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The amps are poo poo too, I have a 100w x 4ch amp made by them and it is pretty bad.
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Sep 18, 2013 05:37
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Nait Sirhc posted:I have a 12" Kicker L7 08S12L74 in a folded horn box. The amp I am using now is garbage, some Soundstorm 500x2 bridged POS. I want a cheap monoblock. Looking on sonicelectronix I found this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44671_Boss-AR1500M.html I tried finding some 'real' specs on the amp, and in 5 minutes of googling, nothing was found outside of the "Boss" spec sheet that claims a hilarious 700w RMS into 2 ohms from 9hz to 50,000hz, but somehow only needs a single 30 amp fuse. To give you a point of reference, a Rockford mono-block rated at 600w continuous into a 2 ohm load from 20hz to 250hz requires a 140 amp fuse. It seems like it should be illegal for companies to print patently false marketing material as 'specifications', but oh well. Disclaimer: I have no personal experience with this amp, but there is a reason this 1500 watt amp costs only costs $62 on Amazon. If you can stand the wait, give it a couple months and watch for good quality amplifiers on lightning deals on Amazon during the Black Friday week specials. I snagged a 500w mono amp for about $100 bucks that way a couple years ago, and I remember there being a fairly large number of quality brand amps on special during the deals.
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Sep 18, 2013 07:37
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LloydDobler posted:Hey STR, if getting a new amp is an option, there are some that are activated by the audio signal itself, maybe look into one of those. It's not at the moment, just trying to re-use what I already have. Speaking of...   Did exactly what I said I would, tapped into the rear power socket for the remote wire. Works perfect, no pops when turning the stereo on or off. It's not pretty, but it's functional, and it'll be rewired to the head unit once I get an aftermarket stereo. It's done with a regular crimp connector, but nothing more potent than a cell phone charger is ever plugged into that outlet. When I eventually get an aftermarket head unit, I'll repair the connection with solder + heat shrink to make sure the next owner doesn't get any  surprises. Still need to set up the levels + low pass filter, but it sounds a hell of a lot better with a bit of kick. Having the battery in the trunk made running the positive wire so much easier too. A very nice surprise was discovering that the trunk liner attaches to the back of the back seats with velcro, instead of being one piece - made it a piece of cake to make the wiring look neat. e: went on a munchie run, threw on some music with heavy bass - the back massage from the sub is loving awesome, I forgot how much I missed that. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Sep 18, 2013 |
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Sep 18, 2013 09:04
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After two years of indecision, I have finally got my arse into gear about getting a new head unit for my car (2001 Ford Laser aka Mazda Protege5). I am not looking at anything flash, but will be going double DIN as the current (factory) radio is double DIN. These two radios have my attention: Pioneer FHX-755BT: http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-FH-X755BT-Car-CD-Bluetooth-Tuner-p/fhx755bt.htm Kenwood DPX-U5130BT: http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-DPX-U5130BT-Car-CD-USB-Tuner-p/dpxu5130bt.htm I'm learning more towards the Pioneer, however do anyone else have opinions on either head unit, or another brand around the same price which I may have missed? Also I'll be looking at installing the head unit using wiring harness conversion connectors. Is it ok going that way or can there be issues?
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Sep 18, 2013 11:35
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You Am I posted:Also I'll be looking at installing the head unit using wiring harness conversion connectors. Is it ok going that way or can there be issues? Can't say anything about the head units, but conversion connectors (aka adapter harnesses) are the only way to go. There is absolutely no reason to ever install a stereo without such a harness if such a harness is available. Using such a harness ensures you'll always be able to swap stereos in the future (or return to stock) with very little work. Even if you don't plan to do swaps in the future, the next owner of your car will thank you for using such a harness.
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Sep 18, 2013 11:52
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JackRabbitStorm posted:I don't know about their amps.... But their head units are absolute poo poo. Absolutely nothing redeeming about them.. That looks awesome. I wish I still had my Alpine 700W amp. If you still have yours let me know and I'll buy it off you.
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Sep 18, 2013 23:56
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some texas redneck posted:Can't say anything about the head units, but conversion connectors (aka adapter harnesses) are the only way to go. There is absolutely no reason to ever install a stereo without such a harness if such a harness is available. Using such a harness ensures you'll always be able to swap stereos in the future (or return to stock) with very little work. Cool, thanks for the info STR 
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Sep 19, 2013 01:23
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You Am I posted:After two years of indecision, I have finally got my arse into gear about getting a new head unit for my car (2001 Ford Laser aka Mazda Protege5). I would lean towards the Pioneer. Also check out the AVH-X4500BT by Pioneer. I just bought it on Amazon for an extra $30 then the Pioneer one you linked with DVD/Pandora/Touchscreen capabilities. Not sure pricing in Australia though. Nait Sirhc posted:That looks awesome. I wish I still had my Alpine 700W amp. If you still have yours let me know and I'll buy it off you. I'll look sometime this weekend to see if I still have it.
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Sep 20, 2013 13:43
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I recently bought a 2002 BMW Z3 and it's definitely in need of some audio love. I figure everything's gotta go. I've replaced a head unit before, but rooting around the wires and paneling I don't think I'd feel comfortable with. I was wondering how much I'd be looking at to have it professionally done. I don't need anything earth shattering. Just something I can hear at highway speeds. I live in the DC area. Thanks!
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Sep 21, 2013 20:32
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Whats the recommended sound deadening product? Dynamat is the name I know, but Im sure there are more out there and possibly better solutions. Just want to do the doors of my car to improve the mid range.
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Sep 25, 2013 01:30
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If I'm adding a sub, is the recommended enclosure volume an exact spec or is it a minimum spec? Like if the recommended volume is .88cf will it ruin my sound if I make a 1cf box?
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Sep 25, 2013 03:52
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Dolphin posted:If I'm adding a sub, is the recommended enclosure volume an exact spec or is it a minimum spec? Like if the recommended volume is .88cf will it ruin my sound if I make a 1cf box? No. For a standard ported or sealed box, the larger you go, the better. Just build it as big as is practical.
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Sep 25, 2013 20:26
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Hey guys, looking for beginner advice. I have a 2004 Lincoln LS with 6x9 "subs" in the rear deck. One of them was blown when I recently bought the car used. I just replaced both of them with these JBL GTO928 as they were the only 6x9 in 2 OHM that I could find (using the stock amp for now which is 2 ohm). Everything works fine, though a little under powered, but the holes for the mounting screws don't line up very well. Is it possible to get an adapter, or am I looking at drilling holes? I don't know if drilling would work to well because it would probably hit the edges of the existing holes. They are currently in there with the screws threading in at an angle, which only allows me to get 3 of the 4 on each speaker. Normally I wouldn't care too much about this, but I'm getting a good amount of vibration and I think this is the main cause. I can also look into a dynomat solution, but know nothing about that, if anyone would share some knowledge on what I'd be looking to do to fix the vibration.
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Sep 26, 2013 02:00
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I ended up buying a Pioneer/Scion head unit that will drop into my car without any fuss and add bluetooth & HD radio. It sounds like Pioneer will have an iOS in the Car deck inbound at some point and I figure that'll do the trick once it's out.
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Sep 26, 2013 03:16
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Hashal posted:Hey guys, looking for beginner advice. I have a 2004 Lincoln LS with 6x9 "subs" in the rear deck. One of them was blown when I recently bought the car used. I just replaced both of them with these JBL GTO928 as they were the only 6x9 in 2 OHM that I could find (using the stock amp for now which is 2 ohm). I know there was adapters for my 01 LS, but not sure about the 2nd Gen. Hashal posted:Hey guys, looking for beginner advice. I have a 2004 Lincoln LS with 6x9 "subs" in the rear deck. One of them was blown when I recently bought the car used. I just replaced both of them with these JBL GTO928 as they were the only 6x9 in 2 OHM that I could find (using the stock amp for now which is 2 ohm). I know there was adapters for my 01 LS, but not sure about the 2nd Gen. Check out lincolnvscadillac.com their forums are a wealth of knowledge about anything you would want to know about your LS.
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Sep 27, 2013 03:38
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Hashal posted:Hey guys, looking for beginner advice. I have a 2004 Lincoln LS with 6x9 "subs" in the rear deck. One of them was blown when I recently bought the car used. I just replaced both of them with these JBL GTO928 as they were the only 6x9 in 2 OHM that I could find (using the stock amp for now which is 2 ohm). I just picked up some foam weatherstripping like you would use to seal door jambs on your home etc. Cut to fit the circumference with a small bit of overlap and then peel the backing off and stick it down so that it creates a seal around the mount. I put some dynamat on my doors as well, but still used the foam stripping as a barrier and 'cushion'. Bonus is you can then seal the drafty doors in your domicile.
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Sep 27, 2013 12:47
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I just bought a 2013 dodge challenger on Sunday. Love the car, but as expected, the audio sounds like rear end. I eventually want to get good sound in it, however, I really like the function of the stock HU/system. It's not a touch screen or a navigation system but I like the buttons on the wheel and the hands free system is really good. Voice commands (uconnect) works well too. From I understand, with the right HU, I could retain the steering wheel controls. However, I'd lose the voice command, I'd have to install a new microphone, and I couldn't use the ipod usb port in the center console (which is connected to my ipod classic). I'd also probably lose the factory look. Are digital sound processors a practical and seamless solution? I have an amp and sub in my old car (which I may use again or replace) and I would like to upgrade the speakers.
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Oct 2, 2013 00:10
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Idatalink Maestro system is a data interface module for aftermarket head units, although right now only Kenwood supports it. It'll retain uconnect and possibly the steering wheel controls. You can also see all the OBDII data and have secondary gauges a la GTR. Aftermarket microphones can be put in the factory spot and the factory USB port turns into miniusb, at least it did for a JK Wrangler I worked on. Failing that the aftermarket port can be put in the factory spot. Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Oct 2, 2013 |
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Oct 2, 2013 01:16
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Idatalink Maestro system is a data interface module for aftermarket head units, although right now only Kenwood supports it. It'll retain uconnect and possibly the steering wheel controls. You can also see all the OBDII data and have secondary gauges a la GTR. Hmm if I could do that maybe I'll look into it. I'm pretty sure a jeep is going to have the same radios as a dodge. I'll dig deeper when I get some time, but I'm having trouble finding the dodge stuff on the maestro site. When I select Dodge as the manufacturer, it gives me the year selection as 1998, 1999, 2000.
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Oct 2, 2013 02:05
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Hmmm you're right about idatalink, I guess support isn't out yet.
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Oct 2, 2013 18:13
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Alright question for my new iPhone 5s and how to integrate it into my car. When I first bought my 2006 Honda Accord EX (no nav package), I told them I wasn't buying it unless they put an a port for me to hook my iPhone up to. They did, and they used the following product: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=915&CategoryID=36 Everything except the RCA cable (upper right of the picture) in the picture is included. That worked fine for my stock stereo using my iPhone with the old 30-pin adapter. I just upgraded to the 5s with the lightning cord, and tried the following: I bought a Mini USB-USB Female adapter off monoprice. This one actually. I tried hooking that into the USB port and then the lightning cable to my iphone. No dice. None of the available settings on the stereo (Aux1, Aux2, SAT, Ipod) work. There is no USB setting so I am assuming that might be why. So the next three solutions I have are these: 1) Find a cable that uses the same hookup as the old iPhone connector (not sure what it's called, but it's the round 8 pin or so adapter that plugs into the box itself) but uses a lightning connector to hook up. (I haven't been able to find these anywhere through google). 2) Use the existing iPhone 30 pin connector cable I have (but it's broken so I'd have to buy another one anyways), but buy the 30-pin ->lightning adapter for 20-30 bucks through Apple. 3) Just buy a new drat stereo. The old adapter, like I said, is broken. The wires have frayed so it will still play music on an old iPhone, but it won't charge the thing. I plan on having this car for a while and driving it into the ground, so buying a new stereo isn't out of the question, but I'd like something that uses my phone as best as possible. Bluetooth, apps, maps, etc. Any suggestions for these? Also, if you can provide me with a link for #1 or tell me if #2 would work or not, I would appreciate it. Thank you.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:23
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nwin posted:Alright question for my new iPhone 5s and how to integrate it into my car. Fwiw, the head unit I have needed a firmware update for the 5 so that might be an issue
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Oct 3, 2013 02:33
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JackRabbitStorm posted:Fwiw, the head unit I have needed a firmware update for the 5 so that might be an issue I dunno-this is a stock stereo from 2006. You think those could even take updates?
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Oct 3, 2013 03:23
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If I have 6x9's on my parcel shelf would it affect them to put a couple 12" subs in the trunk? Seems like they'd be sharing the same compartment.
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Oct 3, 2013 18:51
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nwin posted:Alright question for my new iPhone 5s and how to integrate it into my car. My vote is cheap new bluetooth head unit or something like that. Or a bluetooth adapter that has aux out. The lightning connector dropped analog audio from its support. The 30pin had analog audio out. Chances are your old unit doesnt have an DAC built in so it cant do anything with the digital audio input. I dont know if the 30pin to lightning adapters have a DAC to provide analog out.
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Oct 3, 2013 20:28
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Sadi posted:My vote is cheap new bluetooth head unit or something like that. Or a bluetooth adapter that has aux out. The lightning connector dropped analog audio from its support. The 30pin had analog audio out. Chances are your old unit doesnt have an DAC built in so it cant do anything with the digital audio input. I dont know if the 30pin to lightning adapters have a DAC to provide analog out. Oh wow...so we'll never see an iphone with the lightning port that can connect to a radio and play sound? Only options are an aux input cable from the headphone slot or Bluetooth then?
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Oct 3, 2013 20:59
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nwin posted:Oh wow...so we'll never see an iphone with the lightning port that can connect to a radio and play sound? Only options are an aux input cable from the headphone slot or Bluetooth then? No, there's still digital audio / data connectivity available; the factory head unit in my '13 CR-V will grab music from my wife's iPhone 5. But if the head unit depended on the old analog audio functionality, then short of someone making what would certainly be a non-trivial adapter, you're boned.
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Oct 3, 2013 21:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:No, there's still digital audio / data connectivity available; the factory head unit in my '13 CR-V will grab music from my wife's iPhone 5. But if the head unit depended on the old analog audio functionality, then short of someone making what would certainly be a non-trivial adapter, you're boned. Ah ok. So just to make sure I understand this, the technology of my stock head unit is the limiting factor here, correct?
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Oct 3, 2013 23:22
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nwin posted:Ah ok. So just to make sure I understand this, the technology of my stock head unit is the limiting factor here, correct? No, the technology of the external iPhone/iPod interface that was installed is the technical limiting factor in your case, since your head unit has no idea what and iDevice is. Upgrade the interface if there is one compatible with your head unit, replace your head unit, or use an AUX in from the headphone jack and a cigaretter lighter battery charger.
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Oct 3, 2013 23:53
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So there is this 01 BMW 330i. It currently has 3 10" MTX Thunder 6000 subs in a sealed box, powered by a weak 450w MTX amp. The wiring gauge looks really small too. I have a Kicker 750W/1500W 12" L7 in a giant folded horn box and a 500wx2 Soundstorm (lol) amp. It is pretty loud (was much louder when I had my good Alpine amp). What combination of these things should I use? These MTX subs look pretty decent but they need an amp that is at least twice as powerful, and I'm not sure how they're wired. Is it worth trying to find a decent amp for them, or should I just find a decent amp for the Kicker and replace the whole setup in there?
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Oct 4, 2013 06:56
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