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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:if you want them clean but not shiny, baking soda blasting and simple green wash is the way to go. Kinda wanted them to shine. Process included: Berryman's dip for 24h Some 800 grit wet sanding on certain areas Brass wire brush with Dremel Rinse then soda blast Experiment with various polishes (Mothers, etc.) Of course all the brushing, sanding, polishing was for the exterior of the carbs, just a Berryman soak and carb spray for the working bits and internal chambers.
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# ? Sep 25, 2013 18:49 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 18:49 |
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velocross posted:Do you dilute the simple green for aluminum things like carbs? Yeah, per the bottle and it dissolves varnish like its nothing.
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# ? Sep 25, 2013 18:57 |
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Not gonna hide it: I put the cb650's engine, whole minus side covers and alternator/plugs, in a Rubbermaid tub with diluted simple green for five days or so. Thought I'd toast the bearings or other things, but I just lubed it as normal and started it up after putting it back in the frame. So shiny~
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# ? Sep 25, 2013 20:27 |
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Tried using white hand degreaser on the rims to get rid of the road grime and chain wax overspray. It works drat good, just spray some water and rub a bit to remove any residue when you're done.
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# ? Sep 26, 2013 01:28 |
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Zipped home from work yesterday and got a stupidly ambitious thought in my head: wash both bikes! Turns out around 7:30 the light really starts to go, and by 7:45 you better be finishing off getting the wax off the bodywork because there's no way you're doing anything more than that for that day. Have to do the metal bits in a day or two depending on the weather, then it's time to sell the Honda.
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# ? Sep 26, 2013 02:01 |
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Well I'm an idiot. I ordered a 2000 YZ125 head for my '01 thinking they're the same. They aren't, $50bux down the hole.
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# ? Sep 26, 2013 03:11 |
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Retarded Pimp posted:Tried using white hand degreaser on the rims to get rid of the road grime and chain wax overspray. It works drat good, just spray some water and rub a bit to remove any residue when you're done. This stuff tends to have sand? gritty stuff in it so careful using it on anything painted / chromed
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# ? Sep 26, 2013 03:22 |
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Barkbusters Jet handguards, new grips and levers (yeah I fall off, these tracks have knee deep ruts, loose rocks the size of your head, slips, mud and ice) Rode it up the mountains to about elevation 1400m, until the track got slushy - gonna wait a few more weeks for it to melt.
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# ? Sep 26, 2013 03:36 |
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Got it back from the shop. Turns out I managed to bend the countershaft at some point. Shop guy: You know what you gotta do to that bike, right? Me: Ride it until the bottom end explodes and get a new one? SG: I was gonna say sell it and get something else, but it runs now..... Me: Into the ground with it! I got sprockets and chain 25,000 or so miles ago, and it looked a bit tight from the shop, but in spec was in spec, so w/e. Then I hit a cattle guard at like 105mph and probably broke it then. I've done a chain/sprockets since then, and have noticed that it gets tight/loose. It's only 1/4" to 1/2" run-out on the countershaft sprocket . When it eventually craps out its rear end (which may never happen, the stupid bandit 1200 motor is a tank), I'll just get a 1250 motor and figure out a way to make it work. edit: apparently the shop guy was so upset by the dirty bike, he cleaned the thing. Not shiny, by any means, but the tank doesn't have black spots and the swingarm is relatively free of sludge. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Sep 27, 2013 |
# ? Sep 27, 2013 02:04 |
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Why not swap an GSXR1100 motor into the chassis when it explodes? You get a GSXR steel basket clutch, GSXR intake and exhaust cams, and can opt for bore and jet kits and just wheelie forever
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 05:39 |
Xovaan posted:Why not swap an GSXR1100 motor into the chassis when it explodes? You get a GSXR steel basket clutch, GSXR intake and exhaust cams, and can opt for bore and jet kits and just wheelie forever This is the correct course of action.
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 06:11 |
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Going to drop the front wheel and regrease my speedo pickup today. It's been chirping and I'm kinda worried about it seizing.
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 15:19 |
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Pulled the Vetter Rooster fairing off my '82 KZ1000 LTD last weekend, realized halfway through that the turn signal mounts had been relocated onto the fairing and the original handlebar mounts were gone. Panicked. Found a used OEM set of mounts on eBay, ordered them Sunday, got them last night, installed, mounted and re-wired them this morning. Now the bike is totally stock... no more fairing, no more luggage rack, no more sissy bar/backrest. I've got a 100th anniversary function tonight at my Elks Lodge, which is next door to the garage where I keep the bike. I'm looking forward to riding home tonight in my tux, that oughta blow some minds.
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 16:36 |
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The_Raven posted:I'm looking forward to riding home tonight in my tux, that oughta blow some minds. Does your tux have ce rated inserts sir? What the abrasion resistance on the fabric? But for real, a motorcycle jacket that mimicked formal wear would be pretty rad.
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 16:47 |
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On my 1981 GS450E Replaced the front springs with a new set from progressive, set the fork oil level to the correct height. Replaced the front brake pads. Replaced the rear brake shoes. Renewed my hate for drum style brakes. Rode around town enjoying brakes and front suspension, and contemplating how to go with the rear shocks. (cheap out and go progressive or get something a little more pricey like a set of Gazi shocks)
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 19:48 |
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Xovaan posted:Why not swap an GSXR1100 motor into the chassis when it explodes? You get a GSXR steel basket clutch, GSXR intake and exhaust cams, and can opt for bore and jet kits and just wheelie forever Do I get fuel injection? I'm done with carbs forever.
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 20:46 |
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Do I get fuel injection? I'm done with carbs forever. No
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# ? Sep 27, 2013 22:08 |
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Mapping fuel injection is literally digital autism. That said, properly tuning carbs with custom engine builds is masauchism.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 00:32 |
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But, sometimes, carbs made for an engine that hasn't changed much in 50 years are perfect right-out-of-the-box. For instance, the new (old) carburetor for my Enfield 500. Bought it straight-from-India; it's the carb used on the standard Iron Barrel engine that they've had since forever, and was also the carb used on the IB 500 and 350 back when it was Made in Britain. I've been having trouble with the CV Mikuni ("Mikcarb") knockoff the bike has had for four years now. Things are wearing down, and direct replacement parts aren't available, as it was used primarily in the US and UK export markets (ha, the irony of the to-UK exports) in a lean-burning variant of the engine for emissions. Since it wasn't used really in India, the bike's home country, and spare parts really only come from India, they don't make much for it. Even the US distributor has kind of dropped support for the leanburn engine (they're currently clearancing parts at like 90% off) because just three years after re-entering the US market they came out with a fuel injected variant. New and Busted: Old Hotness: Installed it, and took it for a test ride. Fired right up after adjusting the idle (and filing down a bit of the throttle stop in the grip because the clearance is different for this cable), and has way loving more power. All I have to deal with now is the issue with direct-throttle carbs, where you can kill the engine by jerking on the throttle too fast (just about instantly) from idle. A constant velocity carburetor only has you open a butterfly plate and doesn't let you open up the slide too fast, as it's controlled by vacuum and the Bernoulli effect in various regulating channels. Did one spark plug pull after killing it at full throttle under load and coasting to the side of the road, and it looks good so far. Hopefully I don't foul anything down the road. Bonus shot of the dirty, dirty engine Horn mount I made from an old training wheel: And my new battery tender, now without Unexpected Melting and Overcharging Action(tm) (seriously it is awesome) Not-really-unrelated: anybody know of a good product that gets rid of oil and gasoline stains in brick? My landlord is going to kill me five years from now if I leave it like this.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 01:39 |
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Only downside? It doesn't go "FWOOF" or "FWOO-BANG!" ten seconds after I shut off the engine anymore.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 01:44 |
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Geirskogul posted:But, sometimes, carbs made for an engine that hasn't changed much in 50 years are perfect right-out-of-the-box. Goddamn you have literally acres of room to work with. I'm so jealous.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 03:55 |
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It was a bit more crowded before I moved the coil to underneath the frame near the headstock and the battery to one of those triangular side cases you see there (one used to have the air filter in it and the other had nothing except the rear (and only) brake switch. You're right, though. Changing from the Enfield to the CB650 is a gigantic pain in the rear end Also I am messy with tools. The tank I painted makes it all worth it. EDIT: poo poo unless you meant my actual workspace, which is the fenced in back patio to a townhouse. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Sep 28, 2013 |
# ? Sep 28, 2013 04:24 |
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Picked it up from the dealer! One shiny new Crystal White 2014 Street Triple R. I'm sitting now having a meat pie and hydrating during my first ride. Unf. Such a nice bike. First order of business when I get home: remove the dB killer from the Arrow and see how she sounds! Oh, and adjust the shifter linkage. Didn't want to hang around at the dealer to get them to do it, but it's definitely a little high for me. One spline should do it. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Sep 28, 2013 |
# ? Sep 28, 2013 05:17 |
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Nothing but commuting today but tomorrow I'm going to poke around and see why my bike seems sick lately. It seems like it idles a bit rough, lacks the power at the low end that it used to have and definitely doesn't have the acceleration it did at higher speeds. Strangely enough it hasn't changed it's fuel usage at all. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the air filter and did a valve adjustment about 3,000 miles ago, half of which it ran perfectly fine. After a 1,200 mile trip to Utah and back (through 100+ degree temps while going 85-90mph for hours) it seems to have run into problems. I guess I'm going to spray around for vacuum leaks, sync the carbs and maybe do a compression test for starters. I'm sort of doubting it's going to be a carb issue since it is acting goofy at both high and low RPM. It's a 25 year old air cooled bike with nearly 60k not so easy miles on it so it could just be age creeping up. Hopefully it's not just getting tired though. I just rebuilt the forks with Racetech valves and springs as well as got a friend of mine to dial in the rear shock and it handles so nice now.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 09:08 |
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Snowdens Secret posted:This stuff tends to have sand? gritty stuff in it so careful using it on anything painted / chromed No, this is just the cream. This stuff is pretty old school, all the old mechanics used to keep a can or two of this and a bar of Lava bar soap for the grit action. Companies like Gojo just combined the two. Edit Got the bike and luggage ready for an overnight in SE Ohio, St Rt 555, 78, 536. Gonna be a good weekend.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 12:40 |
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Geirskogul posted:Not-really-unrelated: anybody know of a good product that gets rid of oil and gasoline stains in brick? My landlord is going to kill me five years from now if I leave it like this. 1) Pour coke on the stains. 2) Scrub like a madman with a hard brush. 3) Put some kitty litter on the spots and rub it good. Leave it sitting for an hour. 4) Sweep up kitty litter and repeat 3) as needed.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 12:52 |
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7 fuckin weeks later, bike finally gonna get fixed I've basically been losing my mind cause I couldn't ride, no clue what I'm gonna do during winter.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 15:36 |
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Swapped a clutch perch before leaving on Monday. Now to load some poo poo up and figure out how to strap it to the bike.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 18:20 |
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Retarded Pimp posted:No, this is just the cream. I'm not sure about 536, but 78 and triple nickle are a blast.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 18:53 |
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velocross posted:Do you dilute the simple green for aluminum things like carbs? YES. the highest concentrate you should ever use is 3:1 (about 25% simple green) M42 posted:7 fuckin weeks later, bike finally gonna get fixed sup NOVA biker buddy? next time you're at manassas Honda, tell everybody that Charlie says "hi." Also, check with Jason at Brooks'Cycle Center and see if they're doing any events or group rides. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 28, 2013 |
# ? Sep 28, 2013 20:14 |
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Everything I've seen re: simple green and aluminum is to make sure it's pretty diluted and rinse it off immediately, like within 5 to 10 minutes max.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 20:15 |
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We use massive amounts of simple green when cleaning wind turbines and there is a ton of aluminum everywhere. Never had a problem with it doing damage, what exactly is it supposed to do to aluminum? Its one of the few cleaners approved by corporate since it doesn't strip gel coats or take off paint, and not deadly in confined spaces. Around 6k rpm on my Honda 599 I would get this annoying buzzing sound. After 6 years of being annoyed I finally did some research and it seems that Givi crash bars are renowned for buzzing from the way they join in the front. There's a metal spacer with a bushing that the bars tighten against, it never gets tight so it vibrates. Ripped those fuckers off.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 22:51 |
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Terminus Est posted:We use massive amounts of simple green when cleaning wind turbines and there is a ton of aluminum everywhere. Never had a problem with it doing damage, what exactly is it supposed to do to aluminum? Its one of the few cleaners approved by corporate since it doesn't strip gel coats or take off paint, and not deadly in confined spaces. I think the issue is that it causes polished aluminum to form an oxide layer and lose it's shine.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 23:20 |
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Geirskogul posted:Not-really-unrelated: anybody know of a good product that gets rid of oil and gasoline stains in brick? My landlord is going to kill me five years from now if I leave it like this. Masonry (clay) brick or concrete brick? If the former, just get some of the acidic patio cleaner stuff from your local DIY shop. If the latter, because it tends to absorb the oil, you need to attack it over a couple of days. First up, use cat litter or fuller's earth overnight to soak up any surface oil. Then, get some biological washing detergent (liquid is easier, obviously, especially the super-concentrated stuff - if you can only get powder, mix it with the minimum amount of water needed to dissolve it) and scrub it right in (wire brush is best), then leave overnight. Next day, scrub the detergent in some more then rinse it away with lots of water (pressure washer for preference). Then let the whole area dry thoroughly, and repeat as needed. In extreme circumstances replace the cat litter with Portland cement (make sure you only use this if it's a dry, non-windy day - any moisture will leave you with an impromptu speed bump in the middle of your drive, and if it gets blown onto any plants or grass you can kiss goodbye to them), and pick it up with a dustpan and brush before rinsing the area with a lot of water. Oh, and: Sir Cornelius posted:1) Pour coke on the stains. Coke won't do anything to lift stains, or at least anything more than water + scrubbing.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 23:38 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:YES. the highest concentrate you should ever use is 3:1 (about 25% simple green) Oh rad dude, for some reason I thought you were in PA! It should be interesting to see how rusty I'm gonna be after 2 months of no riding.
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# ? Sep 28, 2013 23:46 |
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Yeah, it's red clay brick. I think that after I'm done with all of my current refurbishing maintenance I'll just attack it with the acidic cleaner. I do have a gigantic bucket of muriatic acid for de-rusting gas tanks. Yea/nay?
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 00:12 |
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nsaP posted:Everything I've seen re: simple green and aluminum is to make sure it's pretty diluted and rinse it off immediately, like within 5 to 10 minutes max. I've never had an issue with simple green... but zepp... yeah, that poo poo discolored the frame of my 675 on contact.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 00:35 |
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Geirskogul posted:Yeah, it's red clay brick. I think that after I'm done with all of my current refurbishing maintenance I'll just attack it with the acidic cleaner. Give it a go, but test it out somewhere discreet first just in case. The proper patio cleaners have detergents in them too which speed things up (most detergents don't play well with acid though so don't be tempted to try and roll your own). BlackMK4 posted:I've never had an issue with simple green... but zepp... yeah, that poo poo discolored the frame of my 675 on contact. Assuming it's non-varnished aluminium or steel you should be able to polish that out relatively easily with Autosol or brass polish. I had to do that to my (stainless steel) sink after spilling some of the patio cleaner stuff I mentioned in it, that poo poo's nasty. goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Sep 29, 2013 |
# ? Sep 29, 2013 02:03 |
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Zool posted:I think the issue is that it causes polished aluminum to form an oxide layer and lose it's shine. Interesting, I can see why this wouldn't be an issue for our use then. It kinda sounds like a non-issue all around. I had visions of aluminum melting away or crumbling to dust under the power of the almighty Simple Green.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 05:56 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 18:49 |
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Terminus Est posted:Interesting, I can see why this wouldn't be an issue for our use then. It kinda sounds like a non-issue all around. I had visions of aluminum melting away or crumbling to dust under the power of the almighty Simple Green. Nah, that'd be mercury or gallium.
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# ? Sep 29, 2013 09:37 |