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I couldn't help myself with the new Sternguard as the +2 beard of awesome is... well, awesome. Don't worry I will be basing it.  
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Oct 1, 2013 17:42
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krushgroove posted:In case you've been living on the moon and didn't know, the new Reaper Kickstarter started about an hour and a half ago, they're at about $1 per mini now and lots of pretty nice add-ons are coming too. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1513061270/reaper-miniatures-bones-ii-the-return-of-mr-bones/ Bachtere, does that kraken interest you? I'd love to see you simulate underwater lighting on that guy.
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Oct 1, 2013 18:11
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In between Terminators I've painted up the first member of yet another Tactical squad. The new plastics are really nice and have a lot of decent bits to scatter around other models. Presenting Sergeant Grumpy of Tactical Squad Grumpus IV. 
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Oct 1, 2013 18:25
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Bavius posted:When I first saw this I thought: "No way I could ever do that, brilliant." I am glad you liked it! If you are working on a big model a significant factor is patience. You might just do one step of the process in a night then you will have to wait for things to dry before you can move on. It will look very plain at first but when you start weathering it really comes together and adds visual interest to the wide and flat spaces.
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Oct 1, 2013 18:57
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I'm currently trying out some muddy look bases using spackle, or polyfilla as it's known in the UK. After a little trial and error i've got a mix i'm happy with (filler, pva glue, brown ink and a little water), but i'm having trouble getting the mini (in this case a forge world resin Marine) to stick to the mixture. Do you have any recommendations? So far my thoughts were either drill a hole through the mix and pin the model on, which will likey crack the filler, drill a hole first then have a pin sticking through, or use small bits of plasticard with no filler mix on them as an anchor point for the model, i'm not sure how succesful this will be though...
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Oct 1, 2013 20:43
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Drilling it shouldn't crack it, but you could just push the pin into it whilst it's nearly set to make a hole, then take it out and glue in after?
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Oct 1, 2013 21:06
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Wait until it is starting to firm up, then push the model into the base just a little bit - enough to make an indentation, but not enough to bury it. Wait until the base dries, and just glue your model into the footprints. Wood glue should work just fine.
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Oct 1, 2013 21:23
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berzerkmonkey posted:Ebay? If you're looking for plain bases, Ebay is probably your best bet as well. If you're looking for resin, MicroArt Studio and Scibor come to mind. As far as the halberds go, I mean without hands, some sort of polearm I could slide into historical style miniatures.
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Oct 1, 2013 22:16
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Coool, cheers guys!
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Oct 1, 2013 22:47
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My project for the weekend provided Forge World can send me a replacement for the missing part on his backpack ffs
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Oct 1, 2013 23:02
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Posted asking this in the 40k thread, but probably belongs here more. I've used Vallejos texture paint for a long time now for basing, but thinking of trying out their water effects line. I can't seem to find any instructions for using them though and not much in terms of reviews. Has anyone else tried them out before and how well did they work?
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Oct 2, 2013 05:41
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Quantumfate posted:As far as the halberds go, I mean without hands, some sort of polearm I could slide into historical style miniatures. You're going to have a hard time there, since most are going to be molded onto hands and arms. Your best bet is to find a bunch in the style you like, then clip the heads off and use brass rod or styrene for the haft. What models do you have that have drilled out hands but no weapons?
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Oct 2, 2013 14:01
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So I've decided that I should take a crack at some mini sculpting, and was wondering what advice you guys could give. I have/can get the tools for it, and have had a bit of practice at filling in gaps or adding details with greenstuff. But what I would like to know is what materials are good for putting together an entire model. I find greenstuff to take far too long to set and is way too expensive to use large quantities. I've seen recommendations for "brown stuff", apoxie sculpt, and miliput each with their own pros and cons. Should I just buy some of each and see which I like best? And are there any places that sell it fairly cheap and preferably in Canada?
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Oct 2, 2013 20:16
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How much are you paying for greenstuff?
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Oct 2, 2013 20:21
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It was something like $10 for 20 grams. But I bought it from a local hobby store, so chances are I got ripped off compared to online prices.
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Oct 2, 2013 20:25
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kannonfodder posted:So I've decided that I should take a crack at some mini sculpting, and was wondering what advice you guys could give. I have/can get the tools for it, and have had a bit of practice at filling in gaps or adding details with greenstuff. so far I've found green stuff to be best for the initial adherence to a metal armature and for sculpting organic curves, miliput (preferably with a little green stuff mixed in) to be great for sharp edges and machined shapes, and Magic Sculpt is good for filling in gaps/smoothing stuff out (it's water soluble to some extent) and for bulking out miniatures (it's quite cheap).
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Oct 2, 2013 20:30
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I was looking at some of the new(for me) citadel paint range. Is Liquid Green Stuff exactly like it sounds? A paint on gap filler with decent adhesive quality? Or is it a much weaker product than the old green stuff.
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Oct 2, 2013 20:49
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:A paint on gap filler...
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Oct 2, 2013 21:06
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I've heard that using brush-on thread sealer is the exact same formula, but I haven't tried it.
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Oct 2, 2013 21:13
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berzerkmonkey posted:This. No adhesive quality though. It's pretty much for filling the bubbles in Finecast models. It works for very small gaps, but takes a lot of coats for larger ones - you're better off just filling with superglue for most gaps. Thanks, quick follow up, does citadel make a metallic green? Is warpstone green close?
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Oct 2, 2013 22:12
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They don't make colored metallics. You can use metallics together with flat colors to make them, though. Do something similar to this tutorial, but not mixing with blue. http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2013/09/tutorial-how-to-paint-iron-hands-space.html
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Oct 2, 2013 22:17
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I really don't like liquid greenstuff unless its a tiny little crack. Regular greenstuff is better in almost all situations. I guess you could use it to make textured paint, but that's silly expensive.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:22
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Macdeo Lurjtux posted:Thanks, quick follow up, does citadel make a metallic green? Is warpstone green close? You can also paint Minitaire ghost tint over metallic paint but if you go overboard your miniatures will start to seriously look like Christmas tree ornaments.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:23
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 Got chance to put a couple of hours in on this guy today. One of the best faces Forgeworld have done.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:31
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Ferrus Manus, post Heresy.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:34
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They don't make colored metallics.
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Oct 2, 2013 22:49
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Ferrus Manus, post Heresy. If you look very closely you can see where I slipped while trimming the sprue off his head and cut his throat. Its hidden by the armour luckily but still funny as heck.
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Oct 2, 2013 23:01
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So I'm assembling the 2nd edition metal Land Speeder and I've got a question. Yeah, I can see how to assemble it. However, the stock flying stand it comes with seems like a disaster just waiting to happen. I'm figuring on getting some brass rod, pinning it to the base, and painting it black. My question is how thick should the brass rod be to support it? The kit's pretty much a chunk of metal the size of a child's fist.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:10
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I used a 1/8" aluminum rod (the store was out of brass) for my 2nd edition Necron Destroyers. They don't weigh quite as much (but similar) and it's super overkill. I probably could stand on it, and it was a pain in the rear end to cut. 1/16" should be fine.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:21
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I tried painting directly onto (washed with soap & water) Bones, and the paint was beading like a motherfuck. So I used some brush-on primer, since the last time I used spray-on primer it took 24+ hours to dry. This stuff usually dries almost instantly, but 30 minutes later it's still wet. Has a best answer been found to Bones painting? Is there a guide somewhere? e: Oops, so there is.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:37
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The halberds of my Empire halbardiers are ridiculously flimsy and prone to snapping if one so much as stares too long at them. I know that TG recommends replacing them with brass rods, but how do you get the axe heads to stay onto the brass rod!?
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Oct 3, 2013 00:41
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They don't make colored metallics. You can use metallics together with flat colors to make them, though. Do something similar to this tutorial, but not mixing with blue. Thanks for this, wanted to try painting my Legion of Everblight creatures with an irridescent carapace.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:45
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Oxford Comma posted:The halberds of my Empire halbardiers are ridiculously flimsy and prone to snapping if one so much as stares too long at them. I know that TG recommends replacing them with brass rods, but how do you get the axe heads to stay onto the brass rod!? Drill out the base of the axehead to slip over the brass rod. If you can't do that, either A) get some plasticard tubing with an inner diameter equal to the brass rod, and fit the axe head to the plasticard, or B) get some green stuff and wrap it around the brass rod and attach to the axe head.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:55
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Signal posted:so far I've found green stuff to be best for the initial adherence to a metal armature and for sculpting organic curves, miliput (preferably with a little green stuff mixed in) to be great for sharp edges and machined shapes, and Magic Sculpt is good for filling in gaps/smoothing stuff out (it's water soluble to some extent) and for bulking out miniatures (it's quite cheap). That's something else I'm curious about, how useful is it to have a metal "skeleton" under the sculpt? I imagine it's mostly just handy to keep the sculpt from drooping while being worked on, but is it something every newbie should use?
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Oct 3, 2013 01:53
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I plan to paint a Charontid with the studio paint scheme, as pictured here: http://www.infinitythegame.com/infinity/en/2011/miniatures/the-charontids/ For my October Oath. But I'm having a tough time determining what colors to use as highlights on the armor. I've started with a basecoat of Charadon Granite, but I'm not sure if I should highlight with a dark green, or a grey...any suggestions? I really only have GW paints and a couple P3.
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Oct 3, 2013 02:18
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Just started messing around with my new airbrush, any advice for painting finer details? So far I've only been using it for base-coating.
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Oct 3, 2013 02:23
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Dr. Clockwork posted:I plan to paint a Charontid with the studio paint scheme, as pictured here: http://studiogiraldez.blogspot.com/ The plasma Charontid is a very old mini though, may be pre-Giraldez. Still, worth a try.
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Oct 3, 2013 02:25
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kannonfodder posted:That's something else I'm curious about, how useful is it to have a metal "skeleton" under the sculpt? I imagine it's mostly just handy to keep the sculpt from drooping while being worked on, but is it something every newbie should use? Yes. I'd say you should even go the full distance and get metal armatures for your first few sculpts until you get better at making them out of wire.
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Oct 3, 2013 02:54
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kannonfodder posted:That's something else I'm curious about, how useful is it to have a metal "skeleton" under the sculpt? I imagine it's mostly just handy to keep the sculpt from drooping while being worked on, but is it something every newbie should use? Even veteran sculptors use an armature of some sort, often just made out of wire (paper clips work) but they also use pre-made ones. Reaper sells a couple of different armatures that are proportioned for minis: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/armature/latest/75002
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Oct 3, 2013 03:14
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Where's the cheapest place to buy greenstuff? Also what was the name of that reusable clear mold making stuff and where's a good place to get it?
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Oct 3, 2013 03:40
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