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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:So the speed sensor on my impreza died, I got a mechanic to replace it amongst other things, apparently it must have been dying when the last owners sold the car and they couldn't figure it out, so their mechanic unplugged nearly all the sensors in the car and put most of them back wrong Are you the guy I helped in the local Subaru club whose knock sensor was removed from the block and wrapped in a ziplock bag? I can only imagine what goes through the mind of someone like that. Probably a lot of swearing at drat foreign computers.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:25
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. I'm hoping it was just an apprentice, couldn't that gently caress some poo poo up? The mechanic said apart from that the cars in excellent condition though which makes me happy.
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So I was under the impression my VF24 turbo wasn't water cooled, now I'm seeing that it is? I can't see the lines going to it but it does have a stock heat shield on. Anyone know for sure? I've been wasting a lot of gas with the turbo timer if it's been water cooled this whole time.Seat Safety Switch posted:Are you the guy I helped in the local Subaru club whose knock sensor was removed from the block and wrapped in a ziplock bag? When I bought my 98 STi and got it home I found a knock sensor in a ziplock bag in my glovebox and almost poo poo myself. I checked immediately and found a knock sensor on the engine, and the standalone ECU that's now in there reads knock when it was getting tuned, so I guess it's ok but ugh what a feeling.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:38
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry, I totally misread your post. I think it's a bit unreasonable to call up the previous shop at this point. I don't understand to be honest how a sensor could be put back on 'wrong' unless you mean that things like the IACV and such aren't adjusted correctly. What issues are these sensors causing? Or was this a typical case of your mechanic patting himself on the back at the expense of the 'other shop you went to'? Apparently they weren't wired up properly. I don't think the mechanics bullshitting as the car legitimately feels better to drive now, especially at low revs where it used to chug a bit.
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Sep 30, 2013 17:02
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Apparently they weren't wired up properly. I don't think the mechanics bullshitting as the car legitimately feels better to drive now, especially at low revs where it used to chug a bit. I don't understand how this is possible, but I really want to know. It's not like you can mix and match the plugs in the harness. Are we talking people cutting wires and splicing them back in?
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Sep 30, 2013 17:24
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daslog posted:I don't understand how this is possible, but I really want to know. It's not like you can mix and match the plugs in the harness. Are we talking people cutting wires and splicing them back in? I'm guessing this was something like the last mechanic tried adjusting the IACV/TPS/etc and it was bogging under load, and the new mechanic just set them up properly.
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Sep 30, 2013 17:27
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VelociBacon posted:I'm guessing this was something like the last mechanic tried adjusting the IACV/TPS/etc and it was bogging under load, and the new mechanic just set them up properly. Adjust how?
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Sep 30, 2013 17:31
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daslog posted:Adjust how? A lot of these sensors are mounted in a way that you can loosen two screws and rotate them to change voltage outputs. For the TPS which is essentially a potentiometer you're just adjusting the voltage it sends by changing the 'zero' of the potentiometer circuit when you rotate it (like a distributor on an old car would be rotated to adjust ignition timing). The IACV is likely adjusted by a screw-type wormgear or something that positions the entire valve in such a way as to let more or less air by. I haven't looked at either of these sensors on our specific cars but I'm guessing there isn't too much different. e: maybe voltage 'range' is a better way to talk about it than 'zero'. I'm in healthcare 
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Sep 30, 2013 |
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Sep 30, 2013 18:09
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I don't know of anything recent that isn't water cooled. And yeah, the lines going in/out of the sides of the center cartridge are for water. Messing up sensor installation would be pretty hard. Most of them only fit in one place.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:29
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Have any of you guys encountered problems with Invidia DPs blowing out cats? Something has happened to (hopefully) my exhaust, it started sounding pretty raspy/rattly. I especially hear the burbling/popping on the 2-3 shift. The only comparison I can really make is that it sounds like a catless Subaru, instead of a catted Subaru. Could be something else wrong too (I hope not), just seems odd that my Invidia V3 or whatever DP blew out its cat or something in <10k miles.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:35
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si posted:Have any of you guys encountered problems with Invidia DPs blowing out cats? Something has happened to (hopefully) my exhaust, it started sounding pretty raspy/rattly. I especially hear the burbling/popping on the 2-3 shift. The only comparison I can really make is that it sounds like a catless Subaru, instead of a catted Subaru. Couldn't this also be a leak developing? Much more likely if you've been modifying the exhaust.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:38
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VelociBacon posted:Couldn't this also be a leak developing? Much more likely if you've been modifying the exhaust. Plausible, but it was fine with no leaks for >6 months. No changes were made when it started.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:41
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I can only recall seeing a blown cat once or twice. One was on a track car and I don't remember the brand of downpipe. Easy enough to check if you are willing to pull the DP off. The cat material will become dislodged from the metal housing and get wedged in there crooked. The guys at invidia are pretty nice. I would send them an email about it too http://www.invidia-usa.com/Support.aspx
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Sep 30, 2013 18:47
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jamal posted:I can only recall seeing a blown cat once or twice. One was on a track car and I don't remember the brand of downpipe. Easy enough to check if you are willing to pull the DP off. The cat material will become dislodged from the metal housing and get wedged in there crooked. Yup, I'm spitballing because while I don't mind pulling it off, all I have are hand tools and an alley to work with. I can't see anything visibly wrong, I have good and stable vac/boost. It just sounds very wrong.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:50
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Full boost is a good sign. The one car was way down on power and wouldn't come close to making full boost.
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Sep 30, 2013 18:52
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VelociBacon posted:So I was under the impression my VF24 turbo wasn't water cooled, now I'm seeing that it is? I can't see the lines going to it but it does have a stock heat shield on. Anyone know for sure? I've been wasting a lot of gas with the turbo timer if it's been water cooled this whole time. You're wasting time with a turbo timer anyway, and makes the car unbelievably easy to steal.
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Sep 30, 2013 19:05
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DJ Commie posted:You're wasting time with a turbo timer anyway, and makes the car unbelievably easy to steal. Well with a turbo that only has an oil line for both lubrication and cooling, running the car until the turbo temp stabilizes must extend the turbo's life if used after it's been driven hard. My timer is actually built into my compustar alarm and turns off the car + pages the remote if the door is opened, e-brake is lowered, or the brake is used, etc so I'm not worried about it being stolen. I agree that it's a waste of time if the turbo is also plumbed for coolant, as the convective flow of the coolant cools the turbo after the car is off anyways. I think the general 'turbo timers are useless' mentality is because the vast majority of turbos these days have coolant lines and you see a lot of timers on these which are uselses for the reasons I mentioned.
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Sep 30, 2013 19:30
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And the fact it makes it really easy to steal a car equipped with a turbo timer.
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Oct 1, 2013 00:54
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G-Mach posted:And the fact it makes it really easy to steal a car equipped with a turbo timer. As I mentioned in my previous post the turbo timing is done through the compustar alarm and is assuredly not easy to steal. It's not a seperate unit with a big wire going from 12v+ to the "ON" circuit in the ignition like lots of the HKS/Apexi stuff.
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Oct 1, 2013 01:02
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VelociBacon posted:As I mentioned in my previous post the turbo timing is done through the compustar alarm and is assuredly not easy to steal. It's not a seperate unit with a big wire going from 12v+ to the "ON" circuit in the ignition like lots of the HKS/Apexi stuff. Does it defeat the immobilizer?
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Oct 1, 2013 05:04
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nm posted:Does it defeat the immobilizer? No immobilizer in my car anyways which makes the car much more likely to get stolen but the turbo timer doesn't make it any more so in my case. Edit: Spelling VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 07:05
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Anyone have any suggestions for rear bushings on a 2004 WRX sedan? My rear diff ones are toast and I'm looking to get them done before I go off to play support car at Targa. (I'm in Australia if that helps)
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Oct 1, 2013 08:16
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Chiwie posted:Anyone have any suggestions for rear bushings on a 2004 WRX sedan? My rear diff ones are toast and I'm looking to get them done before I go off to play support car at Targa. Whiteline?
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Oct 1, 2013 19:15
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Chiwie posted:Anyone have any suggestions for rear bushings on a 2004 WRX sedan? My rear diff ones are toast and I'm looking to get them done before I go off to play support car at Targa. I got Turn-In-Concept bushings and they are so much stiffer than stock, it's awesome.
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Oct 2, 2013 16:54
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My bushings are a combination of Whiteline, Turn in Concepts, and Kartboy. For you Whiteline will probably be the easiest thing to get your hands on.
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Oct 2, 2013 19:09
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Hey Subaru guys! After nearly 5 years of not owning a car, I finally got myself some wheels. And it's a Subaru! My first, in fact. It's a 2008(2007?) Impreza 2.0 5MT. I'm really liking it so far! I've been trying to figure out what engine it has, but I'm having a bit of trouble. I know it's a 2L engine. I've tried my damnedest to find out, but the farthest I've got is it's either 150hp, 165hp or 190hp (JDM). The car was bought in the Middle East, and I think it was made for this market. Here's a shot of the plaque in the door jamb:  Can anyone help identify what this is?
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Oct 3, 2013 01:58
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Chiwie posted:Anyone have any suggestions for rear bushings on a 2004 WRX sedan? My rear diff ones are toast and I'm looking to get them done before I go off to play support car at Targa. Whiteline. Easy as poo poo to get in Aussieland
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Oct 3, 2013 02:21
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angor posted:Hey Subaru guys! After nearly 5 years of not owning a car, I finally got myself some wheels. And it's a Subaru! My first, in fact. Best guess http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#Specifications_4 EJ204 DOHC naturally aspirated AVCS Legacy JDM BL - BP series 2003-2009 190 PS (140 kW) 140 kilowatts = 187.743093 hp edit - better answer This has American codes, but it's a start http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html I think that model/motor was sold in Russia, considering all of the Google results are Russian. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 02:28
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angor posted:Hey Subaru guys! After nearly 5 years of not owning a car, I finally got myself some wheels. And it's a Subaru! My first, in fact. Can you try a bar code reader?
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Oct 3, 2013 02:45
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Anybody want a free timing belt? I've tried selling in CL and eBay, but no one wants it. I got it for my project before I realized I needed a whole new timing kit that came with a belt. And the parts store told me it had been "too long" since I bought it to return it (2 months). Never been put on a car. I stepped on it once. But it's all good. I just want to get rid of it and would hate to see it to go to waste. Cloyes Timing Belt #B277, good for 2.5L DOHC only, according to rockauto it fits a 98 Forester, a 98 Impreza, and 96-99 Legacy. It might fit others but I'm not sure. Pitch: 5/16 in.; Teeth: 281; Width: 1.170 in.; Interference Engine Application pm me where you want it sent and it's yours! (if someone buys it on ebay before I get your message obviously they get first dibs) (also sorry if this kind of post doesn't belong here)
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Oct 3, 2013 03:21
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so more BS and my brothers car won't be fixed while I'm here and I sick of it, if I pull the driveshaft will I hurt anything towing it back to AZ on a dolly? it would only cost a lot less than a full trailer.
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Oct 3, 2013 05:41
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Holdbrooks posted:so more BS and my brothers car won't be fixed while I'm here and I sick of it, if I pull the driveshaft will I hurt anything towing it back to AZ on a dolly? it would only cost a lot less than a full trailer. When I bought my legacy I unbolted the driveshaft, ziptied and bungied it out of the way, and dolly'd it home.
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Oct 3, 2013 13:51
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angor posted:
What are you trying to identify? The EJ204 code there is what it is. My guess is you'll have a hard time finding information on it in English. There are EJ204s in other markets, but it will have been adjusted to match the local market in terms of tune, fuel, emissions, etc.
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Oct 3, 2013 15:24
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Getting close to finishing my 2.5TS - going to slap on the timing belt and clutch today and hopefully slap the motor back in! I'm going to be so goddamn nervous when I crank it the first time 
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Oct 3, 2013 20:49
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si posted:What are you trying to identify? The EJ204 code there is what it is. My guess is you'll have a hard time finding information on it in English. There are EJ204s in other markets, but it will have been adjusted to match the local market in terms of tune, fuel, emissions, etc. I guess I'm just trying to identify how much power I should be putting down. In other news: I bought the car on Saturday, and Monday morning, it threw a CEL. I took it to a mechanic, and he told me he could pull the code on Friday. Turned it on last night, and bam, no more CEL. 
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Oct 3, 2013 22:46
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So... I'm considering buying this 1988 XT6 that's nearly across the country from me. 133k miles, pictures look goddamn immaculate, zero rust, great--and hilarious--interior, etc. Anybody have any experience with these so I can identify common failure points to have checked? I do have a friend in the area(who knows considerably less than I do about cars) who I can bribe into swinging by and giving it a look and test drive before I foolishly buy and have it shipped all the way from New England to the Southwest. The obvious things seem like the air suspension system and the wacky Cybrid power steering system. I certainly don't like the price of the replacement parts I'm seeing, but well, that's the price of liking old and uncommon imports. This is all a pretty bad idea, but for some ridiculous reason I've taken a shine to the unloved XT series to the point where I'm willing to buy one so far away. Anything beyond oil changes and like, replacing an alternator is out of my automotive knowledge, but locally there's an absolutely superb specialty Subaru mechanic that's been working on my family's cars for well over 10 years so I feel somewhat covered on that front. I guess I'm mostly looking for somebody familiar with them to talk about XTs a little. I've seen a couple here and there(not in a few years though), but never sat in one, driven in one, or touched one. What's their general reputation as a daily driver? poo poo, /do/ they even have a reputation? There's sorta a dearth of info on them--which isn't helped by the fact that every search comes up with mostly stuff pertaining to the Forester XT.
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Oct 4, 2013 02:02
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There was a guy on AI that had an XT turbo, but I haven't seen any posts by him in a while. MatLab1988, I think it was.
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Oct 4, 2013 02:44
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Neptr posted:There was a guy on AI that had an XT turbo, but I haven't seen any posts by him in a while. MatLab1988, I think it was. Ah, good to know, thanks. Maybe he'll drop in or I'll PM him later. In unexciting developments, I talked to the seller and he confirmed that the air struts had indeed been converted over to springs. A minus for uniqueness but certainly a plus for reliability/future expenses. Well, unless I get ambitious and feel like dropping 1200 bucks to convert it back to air because I have lost my mind, of course. And apparently their shop didn't need to top off the power steering, and the previous(and only) owner left a note on the steering wheel about it requiring magic Subaru juice. This was mentioned before I could even bring it up myself, so I'd cautiously assume it's true.
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Oct 4, 2013 04:31
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Popped a code in my 2003 wrx @ 71k today. Pulled over to check it out, P0031 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Is this a standard case at my mileage or is this indicative of something else? How urgently do I need to get it replaced? Another issue albeit minor. My armrest is getting really wobbly. Like bouncing back and forth off both front seats. This is something I could probably fix myself if I could find the loose screw(s), but I have no idea where to start. Any tips?
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Oct 4, 2013 09:34
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angor posted:I guess I'm just trying to identify how much power I should be putting down. It'll still be stored, so he can still pull it. dag01 posted:Popped a code in my 2003 wrx @ 71k today. Pulled over to check it out, P0031 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Is this a standard case at my mileage or is this indicative of something else? How urgently do I need to get it replaced?
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Oct 4, 2013 14:10
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So I didn't line up the cam marks on my EJ25 SOHC before I took off the old timing belt and threw it away. I have a new one and I'm trying to get the timing set right and I just have no idea how to line up the cams and the crank gears properly before slapping on the new belt. I cant seem to move the cam gears without it kind of... slipping? I didn't hear any bad noises so I don't think I crushed the valves. Every tutorial I watch already has everything all lined up.
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Oct 4, 2013 15:03
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