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Shame it was windy, but then again it was a storm so... Tormenta tropical by Mijaeus, on Flickr
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Oct 2, 2013 17:09
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Very nice. I love the purple.
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Oct 2, 2013 18:22
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I do night photography so rarely, but it's so awesome   Big Island by hookshot88, on Flickr  Big Island by hookshot88, on Flickr  Big Island by hookshot88, on Flickr
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Oct 5, 2013 06:08
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 Good Sam by Ashade76, on Flickr  Embrace The Fire by Ashade76, on Flickr
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Oct 6, 2013 06:51
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Musket posted:
Wow, really like these. Any details on how they were shot? I'm guessing film?
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Oct 6, 2013 15:43
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gently caress the shutdown. At least the main road through Great Smoky Mountain NP is still open, thanks to it being a through road: Chimney Tops Milky Way by venusian-weasel, on Flickr  Valley Stars by venusian-weasel, on Flickr  Mt LeConte Stars by venusian-weasel, on Flickr These are just the medium-quality jpegs from the camera, but I'm going to fix these up from the raws when I get back home in a week.
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Oct 6, 2013 16:02
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Shellman posted:Wow, really like these. Any details on how they were shot? I'm guessing film? Fuji XE-1 and 18-55mm kitlens on a tripod.
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Oct 6, 2013 16:54
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 One from last night; the first time I've ever seen the Milky Way!
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Oct 7, 2013 16:55
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First time trying this: Las Docas by Mijaeus, on Flickr Alternative processing:  Las Docas alternativa by Mijaeus, on Flickr Its a little blurry, the second one is not as much:  Las Docas v2 by Mijaeus, on Flickr El Laucha fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 17:12
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 Lava 2013 by hookshot88, on Flickr  Lava 2013 by hookshot88, on Flickr
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Oct 7, 2013 19:13
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 Shelby Street Ped Bridge by venusian-weasel, on Flickr  Nashville Union Station Railyard by venusian-weasel, on Flickr
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Oct 10, 2013 06:52
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Oct 12, 2013 12:18
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Embrace The Fire by Ashade76, on Flickr [/quote] Love this one! I'm a huge fan of neon at night  IMG_0347 by bighoits, on Flickr
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Oct 17, 2013 17:31
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I wanted to try to do some low light shots around my apartment. I decided to shoot my Soviet rocket light. No matter what settings I used I just could not make it look good. ISO 100/f18/30s. Pentax K5 with a Tamron 17-50. It seems like the colors in the lamp got blown out no matter what I did, except if I massively underexposed, which then just made it look really dim. Is this just too high-contrast of a scene?
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Oct 25, 2013 01:29
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ZippySLC posted:I wanted to try to do some low light shots around my apartment. I decided to shoot my Soviet rocket light. No matter what settings I used I just could not make it look good. I'm not totally sure what you mean by blown out, do you mean it streaked all over the place? If you meant that it was too bright when trying to get the rest of the scene a bit more illuminated, try playing with the shadows slider in lightroom, or adding some indirect light to the scene.
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Oct 25, 2013 02:03
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Oct 25, 2013 16:14
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Nob Hill.
yoctoontologist fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 09:05
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I should have taken the advice earlier in the thread about how to focus at night, since I'm apparently blind in the near-dark.
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Nov 1, 2013 01:45
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That advice again! Find the longest focus on the lens during daylight and tape it in place. Find the longest focus on the lens during daylight and remember where it is: probably all the way and just a little teensy bit back. Using liveview, focus on a light in the distance whilst zooming in on the screen. Adjust until it's good. Tape it down! Allow the lens to autofocus with the lens cap on, then click it to manual and it'll likely be at infinite. It might not be, though! Tape it down! Test with largest ISO, and lowest F/stop first, before doing a ten minute exposure. Tape it down, if you waaaaant. I just googled other ways to do it, in case I missed something obvious, and wow oh wow. http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/FOCUS/METHODS.HTM People have crazy ways of doing this. Helmacron fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Nov 1, 2013 |
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Nov 1, 2013 06:32
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If you want to focus on something not at infinity in the dark I find that a laser pointer is pretty helpful.
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Nov 2, 2013 19:04
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A couple more night shots from Nashville now that I'm getting on top of all the pictures I took on vacation: Nashville Union Station by venusian-weasel, on Flickr  Hattie B's by venusian-weasel, on Flickr  Trainyard by venusian-weasel, on Flickr
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Nov 4, 2013 01:50
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Is there an application that can stack star photos but keep them aligned so there aren't trails?
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Nov 8, 2013 05:04
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there an application that can stack star photos but keep them aligned so there aren't trails? If you have PS, you can usually get it done with autoalign or merge to pano. You might need to mask off foreground crap, though, or it will just refuse to rotate (because the foreground isn't moving, obv). Then just layer back in foreground. Othwerwise, for astro specific stuff Free -> $80 -> $280 http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html http://www.stark-labs.com/nebulosity.html http://pixinsight.com/index.html All are pretty badly designed, with DSS being especially confusing to use. BrosephofArimathea fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 06:12
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BlackMK4 posted:Is there an application that can stack star photos but keep them aligned so there aren't trails? drat straight there is. http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html is what i use, it's nice and free. http://flintstonestargazing.com/2009/06/26/my-quick-deepskystacker-tutorial/ is a decent tutorial on how to use it, although depending on what you're shooting handling the curves and such might be easier to do in lightroom or whatever you normally use. It works ok (although as you can see it worked better in the center of this image than the sides, I probably had some too long exposures or something mixed in there).  BadlandsStack1.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr Think that's about 3-5 minutes worth of exposure though, so even if it's iffy at full res it's way better than what it'd be otherwise. e. I need to use this software more, it's fun  Andromeda2.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 06:19
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gently caress it, stack manually Comet Lovejoy and the Beehive by venusian-weasel, on Flickr
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Nov 8, 2013 06:47
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Hmm, I must be doing it wrong. I've got about an hour total of exposures (tripod/10-22/t2i/30s continuous exposures/800iso) and I end up with nothing like what you guys have. I'll keep messing with it though. edit:  Blurry as poo poo so I adjust the colors...  At least I got some output this time... kinda figuring it out. RAW output to DSS seems to result in nothing but black, more or less, whereas cropping the foreground out then exporting as JPG gets the above. I forgot to crop my black frames down and I didn't have the star count adjusted right (was getting 10k+ stars per image scores from 15k to 18k) so this has been a good learning experience. I'm probably going to head up to Flagstaff, Az (dark sky city) for the next test rather than being about 20mi outside Phoenix, Az. Next time I'll forego the foreground and pick the ISO up a bit... along with screenshotting where I am shooting in Star Walk. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 11:41
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BlackMK4 posted:Hmm, I must be doing it wrong. I've got about an hour total of exposures (tripod/10-22/t2i/30s continuous exposures/800iso) and I end up with nothing like what you guys have. I'll keep messing with it though. Well, I work with photoshop primarily, since it's a little more familiar for me. DSS is pretty much all Greek to me. Definitely go for a higher ISO. I usually shoot 2500 or 3200, depending on sky quality. Just play around with your ISO settings, and remember if you're stacking, the noise won't be too much of a problem. The point of stacking isn't really to make the stars brighter, it's to reduce sensor noise. If you're going for faint objects, you'll want to make some stacks to reduce the noise, and then add them to bring out fainter details. Also, be careful with lens distortion. It'll make stars closer to the edge of the frame appear to converge (or diverge, depending on your lens' characteristics), so if you're changing the direction your camera is pointing,the quality of the stack will degrade. Venusian Weasel fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 00:44
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I got some nice shots (I think, haven't had time to process yet) from the Grand Canyon last week. I have a T2i too, and definitely had to stick with 3200 most of the time to get the milky way. Hopefully I can go through them and post some soon.
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Nov 9, 2013 02:59
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I was out taking pictures of comets early in the morning, when I recognized a huge wedge of light shining out of the horizon. At first I thought it was the beginnings of dawn, but it turned out that it was still about half an hour away. It ended up being the zodiacal light, the combined reflection of trillions of little dust particles laying along the plane of the ecliptic. I've seen it in pictures, but never actually seen it with my own eyes. I just had to get a picture: Zodiacal Light by venusian-weasel, on Flickr There's a bit of magenta sensor noise I need to figure out how to get rid of, but overall I'm happy with how it turned out. Also, I got a pretty decent series of pictures of comets ISON and Lovejoy, I just need to find the time to go through and stack them. Comet ISON:  Comet ISON by venusian-weasel, on Flickr Venusian Weasel fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 11, 2013 |
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Nov 11, 2013 08:54
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Helmacron posted:That advice again! The easiest POSSIBLE way, is to install Magic Lantern on a compatible Canon DSLR. I can set the liveview refresh rate down to one frame per 5 seconds, but with an F1.4 lense I can focus even on moonless nights by going down to 4fps @ ISO 1600. Quick and easy with no wizard magic prep work that might go wrong.
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Nov 12, 2013 08:54
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Romanv posted:The easiest POSSIBLE way, is to install Magic Lantern on a compatible Canon DSLR. I can't say anything to this until you clarify whether it's a joke or not.
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Nov 12, 2013 08:57
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I'm not joking, it works exceptionally well to the point where other methods are useless, frustrating, or guess work by comparison. It's effectively the 'digital zoom trial and error' done in real time / without needing to waste shutter actuations. When I've accidentally brought a memory card without Magic Lantern, it's hopeless trying to focus in the dark. When in any of the photo modes, the liveview screen refreshes at 30fps. So each frame you see, the camera can only take up to a 1/30th sec exposure to simulate it. If you drop to 15fps or 10fps, you can have 3x the exposure time per liveview frame. Or drop it down even further to a 5 second exposure per liveview frame refresh, use 10x digital zoom to get the focus perfect and the first photo you take will be bang on. Romanv fucked around with this message at 11:23 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 11:16
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Tried to get a photo of ISON this morning but it didn't want to cooperate. While waiting for it to show up I did see this plane with its contrails illuminated by the moon pass right by M42, though!
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Nov 19, 2013 21:00
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Minotaur I/ORS-3 launched tonight about 2.5 hours ago. Edit: Ahhh, my horizons! I'll fix it later Edit 2: New upload: 
rcman50166 fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 04:32
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Romanv posted:I'm not joking, it works exceptionally well to the point where other methods are useless, frustrating, or guess work by comparison. I am definitely using this trick. Thank you 
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Nov 21, 2013 06:36
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I just feel like it's not the easiest possible way because I don't own a Canon. And because of that, it might not ever be the easiest possible way. It's a good way for Canon users who can utilize that particular hack, though! But again, not for me. So it's just weird to say that, I think.
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Nov 21, 2013 09:53
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If you're having trouble focusing on the sky, I can't recommend a home-made Bahtinov mask highly enough. You can generate a template here.
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Nov 21, 2013 10:26
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Do lenses not have the focus window on them? Every lens I've ever used has had one. I just use that.
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Nov 21, 2013 12:26
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rcman50166 posted:Do lenses not have the focus window on them? Every lens I've ever used has had one. I just use that. Depends on the lens. My kit lens (which I use for wide-field imaging) doesn't have one, while the telephoto I use focuses at a point just past infinity on the focus window. Fortunately my Nikon's liveview is 10 or 15 frames a second, so it's a little easier to point at a star and get in focus using that. Anyone got a good guide to processing images that DeepSkyStacker produces? I'm getting some good pictures out of it, but I'm having to convert to 16-bit/channel tif to play with them in photoshop (I don't have lightroom) and I'm probably tossing out a lot of information since DSI produces 32-bit/channel tifs. I'm not really sure how to work DSS's processing stuff, and the developer just suggests using other postprocessing software. EDIT: Here's what I've been able to do so far:  Comet Lovejoy 11-20 by venusian-weasel, on Flickr Problem is, it feels like I got to this point entirely by accident. Would love to know the ins and outs a little better than I do. Venusian Weasel fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 18:48
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Exposed for a bit too long, but the 35 f/1.8 is not too shabby.
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Nov 24, 2013 04:41
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