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I personally love the Cubes and they sound great for practice or jamming. I picked up my 40XL new for $200 last year, so you should be able to track one down for a decent price. I only mention the 40XL as it also has a built in looper. This is fun for practicing lead over top a chord progression of your choice. Also, 40watts will be enough to jam with another guy on guitar at a decent volume. I've jammed with a few guys, and they say the Cube is one of the best sounding solid state amps they've heard. I loved my 40XL so much I bought the 80XL for any future full band jams/etc. it comes with an external out plug so you can hook it to a 212 or 412 cabinet.  Edit: your best option is to go into a music store and try out all the small amps and see which one sounds best to you. Then shop used for that particular model if it's something you want. Sockington fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Sep 22, 2013 |
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Sep 22, 2013 13:27
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Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely go to a shop and try some amps out. Reading this page it looks like the wattage isn't as important as it would seem in terms of loudness, so I guess I shouldn't be too picky based on that. I don't mind saving up and waiting, so would a hybrid valve/solid like the Fender Super Champ be worth saving up for? Or would I be fine with a cheaper solid-state one on par with the Cube 40xl? Is the difference in sound quality enough that I should hold out for something with tubes?
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Sep 22, 2013 19:47
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Try out a bunch of amps, tube, solid state, hybrid, whatever. Many people like the sound of a tube amp, because tubes are weird, musically- they compress and distort in a very dynamic way that's hard to simulate. But really, just find something you enjoy.
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Sep 22, 2013 20:27
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And with respect to wattage, unless you're playing alongside drums, or playing sold out arenas, you don't need much. For what it's worth, I have a ton of amps lying around, from a 40 watt super reverb, to a 100 watt twin, even a 300 watt SVT- and I spend 99% of my time playing a little Traynor head running in low power 2 watt mode.
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Sep 22, 2013 20:37
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I'd look for a used Cube on ebay/craigslist/local store/wherever then switch out the lovely stock car stereo speaker in it with a cheap Jensen or Eminence.
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Sep 22, 2013 21:46
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jwh posted:Try out a bunch of amps, tube, solid state, hybrid, whatever. Many people like the sound of a tube amp, because tubes are weird, musically- they compress and distort in a very dynamic way that's hard to simulate. This is the best advice, even if it sounds obvious. You'll be chasing your tail trying to find the consensus "best budget amp"; just go out and fiddle with poo poo until you find something you like. If you end up getting tired of it, you can swap out tubes, the speaker, or whatever, or you can eventually get a new amp. You mentioned you have a POD; play with the amp models on that if you really need a starting point and then do some research on what amp sim you like (for example, if you like the POD's AC30, seek out information about EL84 amps and whatnot). Best thing to do is take your guitar into the store and plug it into a bunch of different cheap amps until you find one that approaches your definition of "good tone". And don't be afraid of small amps; here's a recording I made a week ago to demonstrate what a Gibson GA-5 amp sounded like to a friend. They can sound really, really, really big at comfortable volumes.
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Sep 22, 2013 22:34
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Declan MacManus posted:
Your vibrato is out of control son.
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Sep 22, 2013 22:42
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HollisBrown posted:Your vibrato is out of control son. I come from the Leslie West school of "Shake the poo poo out of everything" 
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Sep 23, 2013 02:18
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Some guy is selling his Marshall DSL 401 from 2007 with an added Vintage 30 speaker for 470€. What's the difference between this and the new DSL40C that's 766€ new om Thomann? Also, should I get it? I've been looking at the 40C for a few weeks.
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Sep 30, 2013 21:23
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Iucounu posted:So I've sold my Fractal Audio Axe-Fx II, it was simply too complex and I don't have the patience to spend a ton of time tweaking. Also, using it with a powered monitor didn't have the same room presence as a real amp. That said, I'm anxiously awaiting delivery of a used VHT/Fryette Deliverance 60 head! Nothing like a simple single channel amp to uncomplicate my gear situation. Aww, sorry to hear it wasn't for you. I love mine! I usually run it through a tube poweramp and 2x12 cab and think it sounds amazing that way. I actually just got back home from a music store where I tried it out with a few PA style speakers and floor monitors myself though. While I think an all Axe-Fx rig is perfect for recording applications, and would be great for really large shows where you and everybody else can only hear the PA anyway, you're correct that the full range speakers route with an Axe-Fx is definitely not a replacement for an amp-in-the-room experience. I will say that with a good poweramp and guitar cab though, it can duplicate almost any amp-in-the-room tone you want to the point where you can't tell which is which in a blind test. I don't know what firmware you've upgraded your unit to, but the latest ones are great for plug and play. You can tweak all you want and get super deep and change just about any internal parameter you can imagine and a few more on top of that, but you never have to go past the basic gain,treb,mid,bass controls in the amp block to get a great sound, which used to not be the case. vvv Hah, you know now that you mention it, the VHT D60 was my favorite model in the Axe-Fx for a long time. I don't know too many other amps that can stay that clear and "slick" sounding even with the gain set incredibly high. They really do kick tons of rear end. Congrats on the new amp! GreatGreen fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 00:20
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I got my VHT/Fryette Deliverance 60 head in today. This thing is an absolute beast, and I am really going to need an attenuator.
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Oct 3, 2013 01:06
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Let's throw out some random, low-budget amp options for folks, just for kicks (and because it comes up a lot): Crate Blue Voodoo: Decent build quality, there HAVE been some QC issues that have mostly been sorted out by any amps still out in the wild. Good distortion overall, MUCH better distortion once a proper bias and matched tubes are installed. Easily competes (on a basic level) with modded JCM800/900, not quite as 'grindy' as a DSL, doesn't get as fuzzy as a Vintage Modern but is quite versatile. Peavey Windsor: It's a Marshall Plexi clone. Period. That's really all it is, it's all it does and it does it surprisingly well. Build quality is for poo poo however. Don't expect it to be your main gigging amp and I'd be drat careful about relying on it as a backup unless it's transported in a WELL padded road case. It's a loving shame because with a decent clean boost (but a treble boost was a lot of fun too) and a good cab (don't use the matching 4x12 please) this amp sounds really REALLY good. Very responsive to tube changes and mods are cheap and fun because seriously, who's worried about loving up a $200 tube amp? One of the most underrated amps available. EDIT: Unless someone has an objection, let's say 'low-budget' = less than $300 new or used (based on average street price or eBay or whatever, yes we all know that guy who got a plexi for $100 but seriously...) and is amp-only, not counting speaker cabs since there're so many other options there. Sound good? iostream.h fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 16:37
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I'm Joining in: Vox Night Train (G1) There's a new generation of NT's coming out with new features (High Gain channel, reverb, effects loop); but if you don't need these features then you can get a first generation one for a cheap price. Especially once the new ones hit, and these drop in price. Although it's marketed as a hard rock monster, it's still a Vox a heart and a good addition to your gear if the top boost channel in a AC30 is considered to be a "luxury". Plus you get a more "british" sound when you turn it to the 'THICK' channel, which I'd see as useful to somebody who likes hard rock. As for a cab; I'd recommend an open-back 1x12 or 2x12 with at least a Celestion Blue and/or a G12H; though a Greenback works well if neither are available. Orange Micro Terror This is the best amp you can get for under $200 new. If you always wanted an Orange, but never wanted to even drop the cash for even a Tiny Terror, well Orange for some reason always has you covered. Literally looks like a toy, and sounds nothing like it. Pretty much 'classic' Orange through and through. And it sounds pretty loud, even through the matching 1x8 cabinet; though not necessarily loud enough to cover more than a practice session. But I'd highly recommend it to anybody who plays dirtier than a Jazz cat, and cleaner than a Metal guru. For cabs the matching 1x8 is not as boxy as you'd think, but still has a little bit of it ('tis the nature of the beast). But pair it up with pretty much any half or full-stack, and you have both a funny image and a ridiculously awesome sound from such a cheap amp.
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Oct 3, 2013 18:37
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Does anyone here have experience with the Fender Cyber Tube? My friend offered to sell me his for $150 and I was wondering if it was worth keeping or parting it out?
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Oct 4, 2013 00:08
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Anybody have experience with Peavey VTM120's? I've got a line on one for $250 and they seem really awesome. I play mostly Offspring ish punk. Currently using a Laney pro tube lead, so I'm used to sort of a quirky version of the jcm 800 sound.
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Oct 7, 2013 14:00
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I've had a Bugera V5 for the past two weeks and tonight when I turned it on the light wouldn't turn on, and it made no sound at all. Is it hosed, can it be fixed (by me), and is it my fault? 
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Oct 8, 2013 21:42
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Check the fuse on the back panel?
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Oct 8, 2013 21:57
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jwh posted:Check the fuse on the back panel? Unsure what you mean by 'check', but I took it out and kind of just had a look at it, and then put it back.
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Oct 8, 2013 21:58
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ADTerminal posted:Unsure what you mean by 'check', but I took it out and kind of just had a look at it, and then put it back. See if the filament is broken, it's a thin metal strip that runs between both sides of the fuse. If it's broken it means there is no voltage getting to your amp. Also look to brown/black on the glass that'll also mean that filament burned out. This is the easiest to fix problem with any electronic device. If it is just a fuse, take it to Radio Shack and have them match it.
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Oct 8, 2013 22:09
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HollisBrown posted:See if the filament is broken, it's a thin metal strip that runs between both sides of the fuse. If it's broken it means there is no voltage getting to your amp. Also look to brown/black on the glass that'll also mean that filament burned out. I think I'm missing something, as this fuse isn't see through in any way, so I can't just look at the filament like that. Or am I meant to open the fuse up?
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Oct 8, 2013 22:33
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ADTerminal posted:I think I'm missing something, as this fuse isn't see through in any way, so I can't just look at the filament like that. Can you take a pic? Most fuses are glass tubes with metal caps on the end and metal filament running between. I don't know what kind of fuse isn't see through. Automotive fuses are bifferent but you can still see a filament.
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Oct 8, 2013 22:39
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 The offending article
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Oct 8, 2013 22:48
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That's a ceramic fuse. I have no idea if it's blown.
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Oct 8, 2013 22:51
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I forgot cermaic fuses were even a thing. Yeah just replace it, it's not an expensive part and if it works, great! If not you at least know 1 thing it's not.
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Oct 8, 2013 23:00
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Just take it to Radio Shack and get a new one (and a couple backups). The amp rating (probably in mA) should be stamped onto the caps. I'm guessing it's 5A. e: It might not be that fuse. There's 4 internal fuses as well. Alec Bald Snatch fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Oct 8, 2013 |
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Oct 8, 2013 23:05
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Have you turned the amp on without a speaker cab plugged in? That can really screw up an amp and/or blow fuses.
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Oct 8, 2013 23:06
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HollisBrown posted:I forgot cermaic fuses were even a thing. Yeah just replace it, it's not an expensive part and if it works, great! If not you at least know 1 thing it's not. Alright, thanks for the help. I hope it's just this fuse GreatGreen posted:Have you turned the amp on without a speaker cab plugged in? That can really screw up an amp and/or blow fuses. Not in memory, no The only time the amp has been on with the speaker 'deactivated', so to speak, is when I was using the headphone out.
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Oct 8, 2013 23:09
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ADTerminal posted:Alright, thanks for the help. I'll go out on a limb and say it's 90% likely it's a fuse, if you were playing normally turned it off then it wouldn't turn on the next time you went to use it. If it was a transformer it'll usually go during use.
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Oct 8, 2013 23:42
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Anybody have experience cleaning tube sockets? I only have WD-40 and Radioshack Contact Cleaner/Lubricant which are both no-nos for cleaning sockets. I don't think anyone locally sells DeOxit, which is a drag. Edit: I've found contact cleaner is usable in a pinch. I have rehearsal tonight and a gig on saturday, but it'd take too long for the DeOxit to ship. I might let it sit thru rehearsal tonight and do it before the gig and then just wait until the good stuff gets here to give it a real cleaning. Noise Machine fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 18:50
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Noise Machine posted:Anybody have experience cleaning tube sockets? I only have WD-40 and Radioshack Contact Cleaner/Lubricant which are both no-nos for cleaning sockets. I don't think anyone locally sells DeOxit, which is a drag. When I worked at RadioShack a year ago they stocked Deoxit most of the time. I'd ask a clerk and see if you can maybe get some shipped in from another store if they're out.
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Oct 9, 2013 18:56
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Zonekeeper posted:When I worked at RadioShack a year ago they stocked Deoxit most of the time. I'd ask a clerk and see if you can maybe get some shipped in from another store if they're out. the Ratshack website said it wasn't in my local radioshack or anywhere near me, unfortunately. I could call some stores though. Edit: gently caress, I might just bring it in somewhere and pay them and ask to watch what the hell they do and get the whole thing cleaned out. Noise Machine fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Oct 9, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 18:57
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Leninboarrir posted:That's good to hear. Unfortunately I lost my job about two weeks ago and I'm not in the position to buy something like that right now. Spaced out psych/fuzz/stoner/doom rock. Actually they're coming back to play in town tomorrow!
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Oct 9, 2013 20:36
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Against my better judgement, spray on some contact cleaner on the power tubes... nothing. It's definitely a power amp problem, plugging from the FX loop into my interface gets rid of the sound I'm hearing. It didn't happen when I switched the tubes out two years ago either. I'm guessing a solder joint or some dirty contacts.
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Oct 10, 2013 06:28
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What are the general reliability concerns with Bugera amps? I'm considering getting a 333XL, and I'd like to know if I can do some repairs on it to fix the shortcomings of it.
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Oct 10, 2013 23:08
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Everything I've read mostly points to bad solder joints and occasionally faulty parts. If you have access to a wave solder machine and PCB fabrication facility you can probably fix it. e: It's not just Bugera though. Chinese manufacturing processes are still pretty subpar across the board. The cheaper Peavey combos made there have the same problems, for example. I'm curious how all these newer Vietnamese-made amps from Marshall, EVH, etc. hold up in a few years as well. Alec Bald Snatch fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 23:27
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hokay, last question: if I use a Load Dump between my tube amp and my speaker, can I just leave the speaker unplugged if I don't intend on sending signal to it, or do I need to have the speaker plugged into the speaker out and then turn the load dump completely down? I read that if a tube amp isn't plugged into a speaker it will perceive it as infinite ohm and proceed to blow up...
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Oct 11, 2013 00:43
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Noise Machine posted:hokay, last question: if I use a Load Dump between my tube amp and my speaker, can I just leave the speaker unplugged if I don't intend on sending signal to it, or do I need to have the speaker plugged into the speaker out and then turn the load dump completely down? I read that if a tube amp isn't plugged into a speaker it will perceive it as infinite ohm and proceed to blow up... If your attenuator is set to load, you don't have to have a speaker cabinet plugged in.
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Oct 11, 2013 02:32
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Iucounu posted:If your attenuator is set to load, you don't have to have a speaker cabinet plugged in. And the other half of the explanation... if it's not set to Load but just some percentage of attenuation, you'll still hurt your amp without a speaker plugged in.
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Oct 11, 2013 13:32
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comes along bort posted:e: It's not just Bugera though. Chinese manufacturing processes are still pretty subpar across the board. The cheaper Peavey combos made there have the same problems, for example. I'm curious how all these newer Vietnamese-made amps from Marshall, EVH, etc. hold up in a few years as well. This is what has has me worried about Orange recently. I'm eyeing up a Dual Terror/one of the other lunchbox heads they have and even though there's no reason to doubt the quality, the concern is always there. That said my made in the u.s. XXX combo has held up like a wet paper bag so who knows. Music gear is too weird. Made in America is a great plus but there's a lot more to it than the region nowadays.
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Oct 12, 2013 09:33
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Orange has the Crush Pro series if you're worried about reliability. because they're solid state 
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Oct 12, 2013 13:13
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