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rotaryfun posted:How much would this mess up my flight? It looks like a the part of the prop that attaches to the motor is too large for the motor. It definitely overlaps the edge of the prop saver and the inside of it is bigger than the shaft. Was definitely vibrating A LOT. um, yeah... You're doing that all wrong. That looks like a Turnigy Park 300ish, which means the shaft comes reversed (it's sticking out the bottom where the mount is); that's what the prop attaches to. You'll have to hammer it carefully (ideally use a press) to reverse it if you want to attach the prop to the end you have shown. The propeller should have come with inserts (little plastic O shaped things) which adapt the prop to whatever size shaft the motor has. Those motors come with collets, so you don't need the prop savers. Your prop also looks a little big, what size is it?
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Oct 6, 2013 01:33
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Started out as the one that flitetest motors for the swapables but it was out of stock so I grabbed a similar park motor with a bit higher kv. The props are the props also suggested by flitetest... 8x4.3 And yes the prop came with some adapters. Don't know why it didn't dawn on me to put some of those on. Why would the shaft be on the opposite side of the mount? rotaryfun fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Oct 6, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 01:50
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rotaryfun posted:Why would the shaft be on the opposite side of the mount? Doesn't have to be. He's saying that if you want to use collets to hold the propeller, you typically need a longer shaft sticking out, and that (from memory) there's more motor shaft that's sticking out the other side. He's spot on about the insert rings. Did your propellers come with a bunch of little spacer rings that fit inside your prop's hub? The other thing you might try is: see if the prop saver has a wider mounting surface on its other side. If so, you can unscrew the prop saver and flip it over.
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Oct 6, 2013 02:34
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Some planes expect motors to have the shaft on the motor mount side, sometimes they're opposite. Having the the shaft and the motor on opposite sides of the mount adds stability, which I'm assuming is why turnigy ships them like that. You're going to have to take out both the c-clips and press the shaft through if you want to use your prop-savers. I also suggest not bothering the set screws or be extremely careful as they are cheaply made and aren't actually doing anything.
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Oct 6, 2013 02:56
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TheLastManStanding posted:I also suggest not bothering the set screws or be extremely careful as they are cheaply made and aren't actually doing anything. Wait, what? If that's the case, then he probably should not screw around with trying to reverse the shaft at all.
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Oct 6, 2013 02:58
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Just got back from a FPV meet in upstate NY : Met a bunch of very smart and cool people from all over. 22 pilots in total. Lots of great moments, and planes and copters everywhere constantly. Crazy chases, people crashing and other people finding their planes from the air. So fun. FPV is awesome. ease fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Oct 6, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 03:04
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The shaft is press fit extremely tight and the c-clips are there to keep everything in place. It's not as bad as it sounds. Just be careful not to knock the shaft out of alignment when you reverse it.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:04
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Well here is the motor in question... Also the prop adapters that came with the props
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Oct 6, 2013 03:14
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So is this the order of things to go on the motor? This all seems so backwards.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:41
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The center piece of the collet goes into the base piece of the collet, which is then put onto the shaft. The prop then goes onto the center and the cap tightens and holds everything together. Don't forget your prop insert.
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Oct 6, 2013 04:04
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Prop insert? Also, if I put the center piece into the base piece and then put the prop on, the cap doesn't reach the center piece of the collet to screw on.
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Oct 6, 2013 04:16
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Prop inserts are those black rings. And you're going to have to sand/file down your prop to fit.
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Oct 6, 2013 04:50
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You can also take one of those spacer rings and fit it to the prop saver, then glue it inside the hub of the propeller. That way you can use the prop saver if you want to, and it'll reduce the wobble.
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Oct 6, 2013 04:59
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ease posted:Just got back from a FPV meet in upstate NY : That looks awesome. Were there issues with people using the same frequencies at all?
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Oct 6, 2013 06:53
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Awesome, thanks for all the prop to motor help. Looks like I have a little work to do either way I try to make this work. None of the prop inserts really fit the motor hub. So I'm going to sand the prop a bit to fit the collet better. Is this all fixable just by getting some smaller props? Looking at the motor on hobbyking site, it lists the 8x3 as the largest prop.
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Oct 6, 2013 12:32
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You can get longer collets or prop adapters with a longer collet. Just make sure you get one that fits the right shaft size. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39168__Propeller_Adapter_Colet_Type_Long_3mm_USA_warehouse_.html CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Oct 6, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 18:03
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mashed_penguin posted:That looks awesome. Were there issues with people using the same frequencies at all? Yeah a few, but none that resulted in any crashes that I know of. Mostly someone would switch on and cause interference and and shut off right away.
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Oct 6, 2013 19:44
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ease posted:Yeah a few, but none that resulted in any crashes that I know of. Mostly someone would switch on and cause interference and and shut off right away. I guess the standard practice should be to turn your vrx on first and see if you see anything before you start transmitting.
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Oct 6, 2013 23:35
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I was able to sand the hub on either side of the prop to get the collet to fit and made some adjustments to the front of my power pod to accommodate the reverse sided motor. I added a small separator so that none of the cables will get snagged in the "prop saver" during flight. What do you guys think? Added drops of hot glue to the screws on the outside of the firewall so I can save my kids fingers.
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Oct 6, 2013 23:50
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Guess I can only do one attachment from the Android app
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Oct 6, 2013 23:51
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mashed_penguin posted:I guess the standard practice should be to turn your vrx on first and see if you see anything before you start transmitting. A lot of the people getting stepped on where having either harmonic issues, or problems with being too close like 1280 and 1258. I don't think a rx test would work so well because of the different types of interference. Here's my only video from the day : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRquDrzmHrA
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Oct 7, 2013 13:24
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIoWEXvKmJ4 Sunday morning flying in Vancouver. I put some new carbon props on my quad and am getting a bit of vibration from them. I guess I didn't balance them as well as I thought. I had a strange issue on my third flight when I suddenly lost all my video range. I lost the video link in under the length of the soccer field. I didn't change anything on the quad except the battery. Its a boscam 5.8ghz setup with immersion rc circular polarised antennas. I'm suspecting a problem on the transmitter but haven't started to try and troubleshoot it yet.
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Oct 7, 2013 15:49
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Well, my front yard works for the champ but I certainly need to go to a bigger field for the ft delta! What a HUGE difference flying is without a rudder and a larger motor. Finally had a break in the weather and getting my motor straight to get to fly the Delta and boy was it a chaotic mess. I'll be heading to my local middle school for the next flight I think as they have a large open field behind the school that would be better suited for the faster model. Few notes from my flight were basic that I've picked up from flitetest videos but for whatever reason didn't think I needed to follow. First and most basic being that I need to get my plane up higher before I start doing anything with it. Low flight isn't friendly to noobs. With all the rain that we have on the East coast though, I'll have plenty of time to build another power pod and some new firewall's just to have on hand because they seem to be breaking pretty easily. Ordering another pack of propellers. Since I haven't installed any landing gear and have been trying to belly land. Seems like they break pretty easy so I might go ahead and look into popping a pair of wheels on there.
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Oct 9, 2013 17:58
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Potentially/Probably a foolish question here. I have four 3s1p 2200mAH battery packs for my Mini Titan, can I wire them in series-parallel to create a 6s2p pack with 22.2v and 4400mAH? I've seen plenty of people wire two packs in series OR parallel but no one doing series-parallel. I'm thinking my Raptor 30 with worn out engine could use a 50 stretch and e-conversion. Ideally this wiring scheme would just be for testing and working the bugs out then later get a 6s1p ~4500mAH pack.  In other news I was digging through some boxes and found my old downlink gear, only 200w (if I remember right) but should be fun to play with. Need to find a screen or something to test it with. Don't worry I'm not going to attempt FPV with it as it sits, this was a 5 minute tape and toss job before it got too dark. (KX131 CCD Camera, 2.4Ghz 200mw tx/rx) Thinking about it more I think I'll move things to above the wing for better balance. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:36 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 9, 2013 21:36
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NitroSpazzz posted:Potentially/Probably a foolish question here. You can certainly turn 4X 2200 3S into 6S2P4400. However some really good 6S 4400's are only about 60 or 70 bucks from EPBuddy so you will probably just wind up buying those and skipping the hassle.
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Oct 10, 2013 16:52
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Flew at the first industrial hemp harvest in the US in 60 years last weekend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FumBTUe8Qcs http://www.denverpost.com/breakingnews/ci_24259474/colorado-farmer-harvests-first-u-s-commercial-hemp
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Oct 10, 2013 18:23
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Wojcigitty posted:You can certainly turn 4X 2200 3S into 6S2P4400. However some really good 6S 4400's are only about 60 or 70 bucks from EPBuddy so you will probably just wind up buying those and skipping the hassle. There's also the possibility of hazardous fires from dissimilarly worn/charged cells.
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Oct 10, 2013 21:02
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Is there such a thing as cheap fpv equipment that doesn't suck? I'd like to do something for fpv on my mqx, but the idea of sinking a grand into fpv gear for my $90 mqx isn't super exciting. Have the Chinese made fpv decent and affordable yet?
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Oct 10, 2013 23:38
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Is there such a thing as cheap fpv equipment that doesn't suck? I'd like to do something for fpv on my mqx, but the idea of sinking a grand into fpv gear for my $90 mqx isn't super exciting. You're going to be quite limited to what the MQX can carry,I think.
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Oct 10, 2013 23:45
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What are you talking about? It all started with cheap Chinese stuff and continues to be cheap Chinese stuff. You can get a camera for $40 that will give you 90% of the best and a vtx/vrx combo on any freq in the 100mw-500mw range will be like $60. The most expensive part is still video goggles, but you can make do with a cheap LCD TV until you decide if you like it. For your MQX people have had excellent results using this little vtx: http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=1302 You can find them for cheaper from other sites if you look. For the camera you can find a few micro ones around which are in the 1-5g range. The picture isn't the greatest though, if you step up to the PZ0420/CMQ1993X they're probably 20-30g but have an amazing picture (for a security camera).
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Oct 11, 2013 00:58
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What's a good receiver to use with that? Also, barring fat shark goggles, is the preferred viewing method just an LCD monitor? How are you recording, just bringing a laptop along?
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Oct 11, 2013 04:22
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Here are some good RXs, all of these are good just read the description and choose whichever you think is best. http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11_34_44 You can find generic versions of these for cheaper from other shops too. The Racewood rx is the best in totally stock form. LCD TVs you can get for like $60-100 depending on where you look, the key is you need to find one that doesn't show blue screen or "no input" when the signal degrades, a lot of modern TVs don't expect static so they don't play it. Some do. Here's a couple good ones: http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11_22_228 For recording you need a DVR of some sort. Some people use laptops but they don't like the analog signal of the FPV stuff, especially when the signal degrades a bit. Lots of DVRs around for FPV nowadays though.
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Oct 11, 2013 16:11
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Brushless gimbal on my Skyhunter. First Skyhunter I've seen with one and I've only seen a handful of other planes with them. Can't wait to make some more videos with this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zAUlvAckC8  
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Oct 22, 2013 17:32
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What's the advantage of the brushless gimbal over a servo driven one?
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Oct 22, 2013 22:57
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Way better performance.
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Oct 22, 2013 23:06
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performance how? Rotational speed? resolution? Accuracy?
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Oct 22, 2013 23:48
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Yeah, everything. Servo gimbals are mechanically linked through the gears which means they can never be super smooth. Brushless gimbals rotate on bearings and are controlled by a super accurate AC controller. The difference is immediately clear in the video, I've never seen a servo gimbal as smooth as my gimbal and mine is badly tuned at the moment, at least a servo gimbal of comparable size and weight.
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Oct 23, 2013 00:18
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How does the motor index to the correct location and hold that point? Are they basically operating as stepper motors with like twenty poles?
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Oct 23, 2013 01:20
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I'm not really sure how it works but the controller has two brushless ESCs that are very high resolution and the motors are 70T+. There is an IMU on the camera that senses position and you tune it with PIDs like a multirotor to make it as stable as possible.
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Oct 23, 2013 01:59
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I have the same gimbal on my quad and its great. After some faffing about tuning it has been very trouble free.
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Oct 24, 2013 00:34
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