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The hill hold on my 2011 Golf has never really bothered me. It was an odd sensation when I first felt it working, but I've since gotten used to it. On the point of letting the car cool down, the modern TDIs will continue running a DPF cleaning cycle even after the engine is turned off if it needs to.
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Oct 9, 2013 20:29
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trouser chili posted:Should I be giving the turbo some cool-down time before shutting the engine off? I've never owned a turbocharged car before but that's something I seem to remember being a thing. I'm also trying to give it a little warm up time but this car doesn't seem to build heat quickly and I'm kinda stuck accelerating out of the valley I live in every morning. Perhaps a block heater? I run an EGT sensor on my scangauge and can confirm that the temperatures drop astonishingly fast on the TDIs, and the turbo is so small I can't imagine it would hold much heat. Giving it a few seconds of idle before you shut the engine off should be plenty (you have to set the brake and such anyway). EGT drops to 360-390 quickly, or hovers around 490-560 if the A/C is running. The big big exception is when a DPF regen is occurring. If that is happening EGT will be anywhere from 800 to 1300 and I'm not comfortable shutting down the engine while that is going on, super high-tech oil or not.
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Oct 9, 2013 20:32
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Test drove a 2005 1.6 tdci focus today, 2 questions: 1/ it felt gutless, is this normal for this engine or is the turbo on the way out? 2/anyone familiar with this block? Anything to look out for in particular?
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Oct 9, 2013 20:56
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I've driven manuals my entire life and have never had any issues with the hill assist. It disengages when you touch the gas pedal. I don't even notice it 99.9% of the time.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:29
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trouser chili posted:Kinda worried about two-stroke oil and the DPF. Not really interested in doing a DPF delete this early in the ownership experience. I've got mixed feelings on the whole DPF thing, on one hand I think it's really cool the inside of the exhaust tips is perfectly clean, and if that's better for meerkats in Zimbabwe or whatever I think that's great too. On the other it's really kinda sucky the drag it puts on fuel mileage (and it keeps getting worse and worse as it gets filled with ash) and that it must be replaced at some point at pretty heavy expense.  -39C is about -38F, and I've never used any additives. You'll be just fine. And I'm not sure what exactly you're worried about concerning the DPF? The part about it giving you worse mileage as it fills up sounds somewhat like bullshit, I put in a new DPF this spring and the effect on my mileage so far has been zero, neither better or worse. As for the turbo, as everyone else says, just let it idle for a couple of seconds, the important thing here is the rpm of the turbo when you shut the engine off. Total miles on my engine is 180k now and it's still on the original turbo. Cakefool posted:Test drove a 2005 1.6 tdci focus today, 2 questions: 1/ it felt gutless, is this normal for this engine or is the turbo on the way out? I've got a 2006 V50 with the 1.6D (in other words, the exact same engine and gearbox), and while it's not sporty by any means it's not a complete dog. And as you can see above, mines not exactly spanking new. Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 02:24
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My understanding of the DPF is that as it fills up with soot, a regen cycle will commence. During this cycle the engine dumps more fuel than normal to burn the soot down to ash. As the DPF eventually fills up with unburnable ash, it's capacity to hold soot is decreased, and thus regen cycles happen more frequently. Now regen cycle frequency is also dictated in part by driving style and usage pattern, so perhaps you use your car in a manner that doesn't frequently call for regen cycles, and thus no difference is noticed. Additionally the DPF itself represents an increase in exhaust back pressure, and it's pretty well accepted science that back pressure decreases turbo efficiency. Now, in regards to temperature, you may not be adding anything to your fuel to keep it liquid at -39c, but someone is. Number 2 diesel would have the consistency of jello at that temp, and I have diesel fuel experience in my area to know that what is available here typically gels when the temps drop below 15f ambient. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 04:41
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Ayem posted:The hill hold on my 2011 Golf has never really bothered me. It was an odd sensation when I first felt it working, but I've since gotten used to it. The cleaning cycle stops but the fans continue running to allow the engine bay to cool down some. I still avoid shutting off the car during a regen though.
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Oct 10, 2013 06:12
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trouser chili posted:My understanding of the DPF is that as it fills up with soot, a regen cycle will commence. During this cycle the engine dumps more fuel than normal to burn the soot down to ash. As the DPF eventually fills up with unburnable ash, it's capacity to hold soot is decreased, and thus regen cycles happen more frequently. Now regen cycle frequency is also dictated in part by driving style and usage pattern, so perhaps you use your car in a manner that doesn't frequently call for regen cycles, and thus no difference is noticed. Additionally the DPF itself represents an increase in exhaust back pressure, and it's pretty well accepted science that back pressure decreases turbo efficiency. Yeah, my big truck is getting ready to need a ash cleaning soon, I'm regenning more and burning a couple gallons per run more. I bet my company won't do a cleaning until the engine gets really pissed off though.
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Oct 10, 2013 10:18
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trouser chili posted:perhaps you use your car in a manner that doesn't frequently call for regen cycles, and thus no difference is noticed. Very possible, I'd say 90% of my driving is to and from work, about 40 miles one way on 55 mph roads. Easy work for the engine and not much soot generated, I'd guess. trouser chili posted:Now, in regards to temperature, you may not be adding anything to your fuel to keep it liquid at -39c, but someone is. Number 2 diesel would have the consistency of jello at that temp, and I have diesel fuel experience in my area to know that what is available here typically gels when the temps drop below 15f ambient. Yeah, I'll admit I didn't think about the fact that they'd actually sell fuel that wasn't useable without additives. Putting poo poo in your fuel (injector cleaner etc) that is competely unnecessary is a pet peeve of mine. 
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Oct 10, 2013 20:52
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New injectors? I think so. Bosio PP520s
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Oct 10, 2013 22:12
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CommieGIR posted:New injectors? I think so. I had those in my Beetle, a nice nozzle with a tune for more boost.
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Oct 10, 2013 22:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Very possible, I'd say 90% of my driving is to and from work, about 40 miles one way on 55 mph roads. Easy work for the engine and not much soot generated, I'd guess. I think you actually need to drive it hard to get it to avoid clogging/build up.
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Oct 11, 2013 01:43
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trouser chili posted:My understanding of the DPF is that as it fills up with soot, a regen cycle will commence. During this cycle the engine dumps more fuel than normal to burn the soot down to ash. As the DPF eventually fills up with unburnable ash, it's capacity to hold soot is decreased, and thus regen cycles happen more frequently. Now regen cycle frequency is also dictated in part by driving style and usage pattern, so perhaps you use your car in a manner that doesn't frequently call for regen cycles, and thus no difference is noticed. Additionally the DPF itself represents an increase in exhaust back pressure, and it's pretty well accepted science that back pressure decreases turbo efficiency. What kind of driving style lends itself to fewer regen cycles, and therefore longer life of the DPF? This is roughly what I understand to be how the DPF works as well, but in that case, what's a typical lifetime of the DPF and how does it get cleaned?
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Oct 11, 2013 06:10
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I'm far from an expert, I'm really just starting to learn right now. What I know is that VW recommends checking the DPF for the first time at 120,000 miles in North American cars. What they check specifically for is ash loading. I believe what prevents regen cycles more than anything is sustained high speed (engine speed) operations. So highway driving would likely be good I think.
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Oct 11, 2013 12:47
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Bovril Delight posted:I think you actually need to drive it hard to get it to avoid clogging/build up. I was going to ask about this. Is it worth while to do an 'Italian Tuneup' type drive once and a while to clean out diesels or is that BS? Mines a 2000 TDI and it runs great but it really never sees high RPM or heavy throttle...am I making things worse by driving it nice all the time?
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Oct 11, 2013 14:04
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NitroSpazzz posted:I was going to ask about this. Is it worth while to do an 'Italian Tuneup' type drive once and a while to clean out diesels or is that BS? Mines a 2000 TDI and it runs great but it really never sees high RPM or heavy throttle...am I making things worse by driving it nice all the time? The Italian tune up will help the vanes in your turbo not stick. You should do it like once a week or so.
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Oct 11, 2013 14:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:I was going to ask about this. Is it worth while to do an 'Italian Tuneup' type drive once and a while to clean out diesels or is that BS? Mines a 2000 TDI and it runs great but it really never sees high RPM or heavy throttle...am I making things worse by driving it nice all the time? Every car needs an Italian tuneup every so often. Mine gets at least 2 a day. They both just happen to coincide with passing all the assholes getting on the freeway at 40 mph.
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Oct 11, 2013 14:42
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I drive a VW Caddy TDI at work sometimes and it's pretty fast for being a van really.
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Oct 11, 2013 16:09
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trouser chili posted:I'm far from an expert, I'm really just starting to learn right now. What I know is that VW recommends checking the DPF for the first time at 120,000 miles in North American cars. What they check specifically for is ash loading. I believe what prevents regen cycles more than anything is sustained high speed (engine speed) operations. So highway driving would likely be good I think. The ECU also has some way of determining DPF loading beyond the pressure difference before/after the DPF, but I don't think it's accessible without VAGCOM. There were screenshots showing it somewhere, I think TDIclub again. If I have time this weekend I'll try to find the instructions and see what mine says. Hopefully somebody that can actually verify will chime in, but I think for passive regen all you need to do is get the DPF warm enough the crud starts burning off on it's own, which would be sustained high(er) engine load. I think max boost is available at 2200 rpm or so, you don't need to rev it to the moon, you just need to generate and maintain sufficient EGT. Only difference for active regen is the ECU adds extra fuel near/during the exhaust stroke to bring the DPF up to temp to start the process, and sustain it if necessary. Again, none of this is from primary VW sources, so feel free to correct if I'm talking out of my rear end too badly. I also didn't know the hill hold was supposed to disengage on throttle application, that hasn't been my experience but I'll have to play with it a bit more. Worst case it appears to be easily disabled via VAGCOM, looked like a single yes/no option in a single location.
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Oct 11, 2013 22:06
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Ayem posted:What kind of driving style lends itself to fewer regen cycles, and therefore longer life of the DPF? This is roughly what I understand to be how the DPF works as well, but in that case, what's a typical lifetime of the DPF and how does it get cleaned? Idling loads these filters up, so stop and go traffic isn't what you want to do. Driving down the interstate allows a easy regen.
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Oct 11, 2013 23:10
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Well im pretty sure the turbo in my turbodiesel just shat the bed big time. Put foot down to go up a hill, no go, no boost, dying in the arse, then enormous BANG and horrid noises from the turbo area as soon as the turbo starts to spin up. Towed it home, will try to find out the damage in the morning 
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Oct 12, 2013 11:38
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Ferremit posted:Well im pretty sure the turbo in my turbodiesel just shat the bed big time. Put an ISB in it.
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Oct 13, 2013 14:51
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Ferremit posted:Well im pretty sure the turbo in my turbodiesel just shat the bed big time. drat it, and I just sold a spare turbocharger.
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Oct 13, 2013 15:42
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So spending a grand more than the replacement cost of a standard turbo for a hi flowed monster that comes on boost 400rpm sooner and produces 30-40% more power and torque isn't silly is it? I've already got the intercooler and piggyback ecu to handle more boost...
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Oct 13, 2013 23:53
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Ferremit posted:So spending a grand more than the replacement cost of a standard turbo for a hi flowed monster that comes on boost 400rpm sooner and produces 30-40% more power and torque isn't silly is it? I've already got the intercooler and piggyback ecu to handle more boost... That depends on if it's going to break drivetrain parts and require 500% more money in upgrades. Not knowing anything about what you drive, I'd say go for it and just upgrade what breaks.
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Oct 14, 2013 00:05
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Odds are you're not going to window the block or anything, but I bet you're going to need a stronger clutch to handle that 30-40% increase in power.
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Oct 14, 2013 07:37
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there are guys pushing 285hp out of the 4.2L diesel I have (at 2400rpm... with 623ft/lb of torque) without changing any internals, but they are running stupid clutches. The guy wants $2500 for one of the silly turbo's... thats a LOT more than I was expecting. Im looking at a slightly less silly one for around $800. quote:Compressor wheel: 60 / 76 mm (Garrett 60-1 Wheel)
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Oct 14, 2013 09:45
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Fiat 1.9jtd, 100k miles, decent service history. Dog or okay workhorse?
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Oct 14, 2013 12:35
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I just ordered $80 worth of POR-15 and related products. The injectors are way out of balance on my TDI, making it way smokier than I want it to be. I doesn't make sense for me to put in new ones if my car is rusting away, so I'm going to see how much I can sand, paint, and patch. If that goes well, I'll order a balanced set of PP520's through DBW's hot swap program.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:43
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Urgh... I wish turbo's werent so god drat hard to work out specs for... Ive heard possibly that a 60-1 compressor wheel may be a bit out off spec for my cruiser motor, but I cant find anything to help me make sure or not. I dont wanna make an $800 mistake and order a useless turbo. The engine is a 1HD-FTE toyota turbo diesel, 4.2L, six cylinder, quad valve, SOHC, Direct injection. Redline of 4300rpm. Turbo's im looking at are either a stock CT26 with the following specs: quote:Compressor Wheel 46 / 65 mm (Inducer / Exducer) and a 12psi wastegate (adjustable with a different spring) Or the Upgraded CT26 with a 60-1 compressor wheel [quote] Compressor wheel: 60 / 76 mm (Garrett 60-1 Wheel) Turbine Wheel 48 / 59.8 mm (Inducer / Exducer) [quote] Again with 12psi wastegate. The ECU will go into limp mode at 16.5psi, so Im looking at fitting a 1bar (14.7psi) wastegate to either. The thing is, I dunno whether the compressor map on the 60-1 wheel will suit a low reving turbo diesel, or should i stick with the standard wheel and up the boost? HELP???
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Oct 15, 2013 08:56
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How much pressure did the original turbo make? It sounds like you need a tune to get rid of limp mode if you're going to make as much power as you want.
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Oct 15, 2013 19:23
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Does modern ultra low sulfur diesel fuel have a short shelf life like gas ethanol blends do? I don't drive much at all and am wondering if I should start only filing up halfway in my TDI. The 7.3 I am less worried about but I never fill it up all the way anyway because I don't like seeing the near $100 fuel bill.
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Oct 16, 2013 18:32
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Shifty Pony posted:Does modern ultra low sulfur diesel fuel have a short shelf life like gas ethanol blends do? I don't drive much at all and am wondering if I should start only filing up halfway in my TDI. Not that I am aware of, it should still keep better than gasoline, just add some diesel anti-gel to it and it'll keep. Water is what you need to worry about.
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Oct 16, 2013 18:35
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Where is the cheapest place to get nozzles? I was going to go DBW PP520s for $415 but maybe there is a cheaper place. My car has all of the beautiful symptoms of hosed injector nozzles - rough idle when cold that clears as the car warms up, white smoke on cold start, returning to idle hangs, etc.
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Oct 17, 2013 06:16
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I am looking to buy a 1994-1998 dodge 12v cummins truck, other than the transmission are there any other things to look out for? Is ten grand ( ) a reasonable price for one?
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Oct 18, 2013 04:11
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The ones you get from DBW aren't just nozzles, they're balanced on injectors as well. It might make sense to use a VAG-COM to see how well your system is balanced right now. I've used one on mine, and I know that one of my injectors is way out of balance from the others, so I need to get things balanced. The actual injector tips are only like $250, and you should be able to order those straight from DBW anyway if that' all you want.
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Oct 18, 2013 14:26
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BigHouseOfBooty posted:I am looking to buy a 1994-1998 dodge 12v cummins truck, other than the transmission are there any other things to look out for? Is ten grand ( This http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0706dp_1997_dodge_ram_kdp/
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Oct 18, 2013 18:47
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My 98 Jetta TDI now operates exclusively in limp mode with a trouble code of p01550, I've taken it to 2 different VW dealers and 3 independent VW mechanics none of which can figure out what's wrong it. In a weird way, I'm OK with it since my commute is 45 miles of country road anyway and I only need a top speed of 65 which it'll get to in 1 minute 33 seconds. It currently does 0-60 in 72 seconds. Also, just accepting the fact it's in perma-limp I at least expect it to just drive like it does rather than it cutting out and cycling the key randomly in a 10-30 minute time frame.
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Nov 7, 2013 16:40
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It seems like you've tried everything to the point that maybe trying a new ECU would make sense. Maybe a custom tuner would make a deal with you where you'd pay them if they can fix your limp mode; there's some nice guys in the TDI community.
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Nov 7, 2013 19:25
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I've already tried going that route too, a local guy in the TDI community let me swap parts off his to see where the failure point was. No dice.. Here's a list of everything I've replaced: vacuum lines including one in ECU, N75, turbo, turbo inlet pipe, maf sensor, intake manifold/EGR (AHU EGR is built in to intake manifold). Everything listed there is also what I swapped out off the other AHU including the ECU, exhaust gas recirc valve, plastic pipes, intake hoses, basically everything that bolts to the block. Nothing mechanical or vacuum related has taken care of the issue, I have a feeling I have an electrical short at this point. It is what it is. Sluggish as poo poo, but it still gets mid-40's mpg.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:33
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