|
Z3n posted:Join me in the benediction: My Yamaha is orange, too  I've even bought an orange pump for it, and an orange handlebar pad. I just want to be part of the club
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:33 |
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:My Yamaha is orange, too Burn the heretic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:08
|
|
|
There is a KTM dirtbike front fender on my DRZ right now because the stock suzuki one flopped around too much at speed. It is obnoxiously orange and will be painted black or something very soon
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:08
|
|
|
apatite posted:There is a KTM dirtbike front fender on my DRZ right now because the stock suzuki one flopped around too much at speed. It is obnoxiously orange and will be painted black or something very soon You must not cover up the holiest of colors! To repent, you must buy something orange and Germanic (I have one, and it is awesome).
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
^^^ goddamnit I was not fast enough ^^^^apatite posted:There is a KTM dirtbike front fender on my DRZ right now because the stock suzuki one flopped around too much at speed. It is obnoxiously orange and will be painted black or something very soon Kill the mutant.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:10
|
|
|
Z3n posted:http://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-news-new-bikes/ktm-set-to-launch-rc125-200-and-390/23689.html Firstly, that looks like a terrible render. Secondly, yeah, lemme just take that big underslung aluminum box offroad or down a flight of stairs. DRZ supremacy reigns supreme. EVERY DAY I WAKE UP AND OPEN PALM SLAM MY BIKE DOWN A FLIGHT OF STAIRS
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:26
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Firstly, that looks like a terrible render. Secondly, yeah, lemme just take that big underslung aluminum box offroad or down a flight of stairs. DRZ supremacy reigns supreme. I'm pretty sure that's the RC, not the SM.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:28
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Firstly, that looks like a terrible render. Secondly, yeah, lemme just take that big underslung aluminum box offroad or down a flight of stairs. DRZ supremacy reigns supreme. Well I'm sure they'll change that for the sumo version. After all, that's what they did with the duke/690 sm. But drat just think about how much fun a DRZ that's probably 20% lighter, actually makes good power stock, and has awesome suspension will be. Also yeah that must be a render. But a RC390 would be so much fun around track too, so that's a thing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 20:28
|
|
|
"maybe in 2015,lol" -an anonymous source *presses cancel button on "DRZ FOR SALE" sign printout*
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 21:16
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:"maybe in 2015,lol" -an anonymous source What, you don't want to be like every 690 owner on this board and either never ride your bike or pine over something you sold years ago? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 21:17
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What, you don't want to be like every 690 owner on this board and either never ride your bike or pine over something you sold years ago? Hey! I resemble that statement!
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 21:50
|
|
|
I keep smelling burning at stoplights, then I lean to the right and remember that there's still a ton of cheap polyester/acrylic/something pant material melted onto my Yosh exhaust from the DGR. I wonder what the PO did with the heat shield.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 21:52
|
|
|
That RC390 sure has a big "125" on the side
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:That RC390 sure has a big "125" on the side Its a render by Visordown but apparently KTM is wrapping Duke 125/200 and 390's as RC versions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2013 22:03
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What, you don't want to be like every 690 owner on this board and either never ride your bike or pine over something you sold years ago? Shut up! Strangely the 390 Duke is selling brand new for less than used DRZ's in Australia.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 03:28
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What, you don't want to be like every 690 owner on this board and either never ride your bike or pine over something you sold years ago? I already did the latter with my original DRZ, which is why I have another now
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 04:11
|
|
|
I did some clutch in wheelies on the way home from work on my DRZ and I'm all  still, way more fun than WOT wheelies.Also saw a bright orange duke while outside flipping signs and  do they look mean.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 06:14
|
|
|
I was out exploring around an old overgrown abandoned highway and found some awesome trails someone had cut in with four-wheelers. Dang, dirt riders have some balls that I don't yet possess. Although with street tires, there where a lot more "if I slow down, I'll never make it" situations than I'm sure someone with knobbies would have had. I want to go back every day. A trespassing charge can't be that bad, right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 14:28
|
|
|
Post Workout Peach posted:while outside flipping signs This is a gang thing right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2013 14:34
|
|
|
Just had both tires on the DRZ SM replaced with Pilot Power rear (150) front (120). I'm experiencing some sort of up/down bouncing/shaking when riding in a straight line on a nicely paved road, which I noticed when the brake line which loops up and over the dash was bouncing around more than usual. I don't know much about suspension, so I'm not used to evaluating these kinds of things yet. If I ride up to 100kph, pull the clutch and coast back down, it's worst right around 60kph. I checked tire pressure when I got home (I should have done this right after the tire change, I know), and it was 33 front, 36 rear. The internet leads me to believe it should be much lower, like 24 front, 29 rear. I adjusted the tire pressure as such and rode around the block, which didn't seem to help. I don't have a stand, otherwise I'd lift the bike and spin the wheels, looking for imperfections. Maybe it's time for a stand. Suggestions? Edit: Clymer says 25 front, 29-33 rear. epswing fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Oct 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 23:41
|
|
|
Check your chain.
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2013 23:47
|
|
|
epalm posted:Just had both tires on the DRZ SM replaced with Pilot Power rear (150) front (120). I've noticed that bike shops don't know dick about supermoto tyre pressures. Whenever I got new tyres or a service or anything done to my KTM I'd come out, the ride would be nervous and a little stiff, check the pressures and they've closer to 40 than 30. Once the tyres are down to 26 front and back everything feels good again. This was three different shops including two KTM dealerships.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 00:15
|
|
|
A lot of that is bike shops often don't both setting pressures. Put air in it till the bead sits, let 'some out', charge you and on your way. Most SM tires are happiest in the low mid 20's pressure wise, at least on the track. Mid 20's more so for street use.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 00:21
|
|
|
JP Money posted:Check your chain. For a massive kink? Am I experiencing a chains last dying words, and actually shouldn't ride it until I get a new chain/sprockets?
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 04:04
|
|
|
If it's really tight it could bind up. If it's super super loose you can experience some weird stuff with the chain slapping around but you'd probably know if it was that bad. Are you saying it has a massive kink or asking?
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 04:06
|
|
|
The chain is loose, but as I understand, it's supposed to be on a bike with such a flexible swingarm (most sumos, right?). I haven't had a chance to check closely for kinks in the chain yet. I'll be doing that tomorrow morning.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2013 04:58
|
|
|
I've had my 2007 690 SMC for several months now and it is awesome. However I've noticed an occasional strange stalling issue at lights. Sometimes it just dies when the light goes green and I apply throttle and slip out the clutch. I really don't think I'm doing anything wrong; as a noob rider with my old bike I stalled less than a handful of times in a year (usually going uphill). Since I've had the KTM its happened much more often. It's not a big deal as it starts right up again, but it is somewhat awkward when lanesplitting and cars are going angrily around you. I seem to recall reading something about this being a fuel mapping issue with there being some sort of emissions-related map that kicks in when you're idling, and a different map that transitions when you're moving. I did some googling but all the results are related to people installing aftermarket exhausts. Am I on the right track? Is there a fix that doesn't involve advanced TuneECU stuff? I don't have the equipment/knowhow to mess with that... The bike is totally stock as far as I know.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 02:45
|
|
|
I heard something about the 690 originally coming with a map that was way too choked down for emissions and cut down on power a bit. Dealers should be able to remap it back to the original full-fat map. At which RPM does your bike idle, btw? I had issues with my XT660 cutting out if I blipped the throttle too quickly from idle. Turns out it was idling at 1200 RPM and the manual says it should be between 1300 and 1500. I adjusted it to 1400 and since then, it hasn't cut out at all.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 07:53
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:I've had my 2007 690 SMC for several months now and it is awesome. However I've noticed an occasional strange stalling issue at lights. Sometimes it just dies when the light goes green and I apply throttle and slip out the clutch. I really don't think I'm doing anything wrong; as a noob rider with my old bike I stalled less than a handful of times in a year (usually going uphill). Since I've had the KTM its happened much more often. It's not a big deal as it starts right up again, but it is somewhat awkward when lanesplitting and cars are going angrily around you. The earliest 690 SMC's had stalling issues down to tuning and ECU. First step, take the seat off and find the engine map and make sure your not on the bad fuel map. Talk to your dealer about getting that tuned out/flashed. Or you can go get a tuneboy and have tons of fun
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 20:29
|
|
|
Carb supremacy     
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:
You definitely should not do that, Tune ECU is free and has the same functionality, you just have to buy the cable and a USB/obdii adapter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 20:50
|
|
|
I meant to say TuneECU, whoops. Yeah do that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 20:51
|
|
|
Tunnels are a great place to check your newly bought sumos vocal range. I suck at filming things while driving, also phone microphones suck, it sounded way more hilarious in person. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsfP8sBySLA
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 21:16
|
|
|
Took my DRZ into the shop to have the guys that installed my tires look it over, hoping to find the source of the roughness/bouncing I was experiencing. Turns out the tires are fine but the wheel is slightly ovaled.  (Also, forks are slightly bent.) epswing fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Oct 12, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2013 21:31
|
|
|
Went for a ride with a sportbike buddy on some nice country roads. I was right behind him in the corners, but every long straight the VFR would loose me while I pinned the DRZ wide open and put my chin on the tank. Good times.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 01:27
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:I've had my 2007 690 SMC for several months now and it is awesome. I've got the cable if you want to try TuneEcu yourself. It's surprisingly easy. Otherwise your ktm dealer should be able to remap it for you, I know mine was pretty aware of the 690's bugs. I've played with my mapping about 4 times so far, just trying different things per the forums and probably have it set 95% good. I used this link http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13 and this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctNjC_7HtjE .
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 03:19
|
|
|
Ola posted:
I pledge allegiance to the Orange and Black, To the engineers, and the theory- That three oil filters isn't unreasonable, and even though my valve train is lubricated- by oil flung up from the timing chain I will try not to complain. And when my bike leaks oil, and bolts rattle out I will eventually find their source and apply more loctite. How to replace the v-seal on your leaky LC4: Step the first: Kick bike onto it's weak side  Locate offending orifice:  Strip bare:  Confirm that old seal is filthy and worn out:   Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to apply copious quantities of loctite. Also, a question: When I did my valve adjustment a few weeks back, I found that the spark plug was surprisingly loose. Now, I did use anti-seize, but I also torqued it down when I replaced it. So, when I went to reinstall the plug, I checked my manual and started tightening... and tightening. And then got scared, and called it good enough. In other words, my torque wrench never clicked and I didn't want to strip anything. Is this normal? I hope the PO didn't do something stupid like strip some of the threads for the spark plug. I haven't had any issues like the spark plug wire being blown off, so I think that's okay-- but I also don't have a tool kit on the bike and I don't want to get stranded if the spark plug somehow manages to back itself out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure antiseize lubricant reduces torque needed by quite a bit. You probably made a smart decision to stop turning early.
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 05:04
|
|
|
JP Money posted:I'm pretty sure antiseize lubricant reduces torque needed by quite a bit. You probably made a smart decision to stop turning early. Torque values should be spec'd according to anti-seize required or not. If the plugs aren't spec'd for it, then yeah smart move as you can severely over torque something with the reduced thread friction from the lube.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 06:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:33 |
|
|
The kickstarter shaft is over the shifter? Never seen that before.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2013 07:26
|
|
