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Heating/Cooling is super confusing to me... We talked to a Heating guy over the weekend who was recommended by our contractor (who we trust as a family friend). He gave us some estimates on high-efficiency gas furnaces and A/C units. Primarily American Standard and Lennox units. It seems like everything in Heating/Cooling breaks down to 1) spend the money up front and save it the additional expense over the next 5 years, or 2) save the money up front and spend the additional expense over the next 5 years. It really feels like a pretty even trade for a bunch of these units I'm looking at. Is there really any logic that I'm missing here that should come into play when shopping for Furnaces & AC? Assuming we have the budget to get whatever high-efficiency furnace we want in the 95-98% AFUE range what should we be looking at to guide our decision? We're also looking at a gas fireplace insert for our living room... does anyone have any particular brands or considerations I should have when looking at them?
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Oct 21, 2013 19:14
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Fireplaces are heat suckers. Furnace sizing depends on the size of your house, how the ducting is configured, how cold it gets, what fuels you have available, how cold your wife gets, how much insulation do you have, is your house a 100 year old block of swiss cheese, which way does your house face? I know I'm forgetting something(s.)
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Oct 21, 2013 20:07
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Fireplaces are heat suckers. yeah, well I'm just trying to decide between options the heating guy gave me... it's a 1920's home, in a moderate climate (PNW), we want a gas furnace as opposed to a heat pump to keep the lady nice and toasty warm all winter... There are so drat many factors, I guess I just trust the heating guy and print his options out, staple them to the wall, and throw a dart at them to pick which is best.
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Oct 21, 2013 20:24
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MMD3 posted:yeah, well I'm just trying to decide between options the heating guy gave me... it's a 1920's home, in a moderate climate (PNW), we want a gas furnace as opposed to a heat pump to keep the lady nice and toasty warm all winter... There are so drat many factors, I guess I just trust the heating guy and print his options out, staple them to the wall, and throw a dart at them to pick which is best. What is "best" if you can afford it almost always comes down to higher efficiency equipment that has been properly installed. I say highER not highEST where you get into big dollars and moon parts that may not be available in the future. But something on the higher end that pays off in 5 years is going to last another 15-20 where it keeps paying off. Something that is cheap and costs you enough fuel after 5 years to break even is going to KEEP SUCKING MORE FUEL for the next 15-20 years.
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Oct 21, 2013 22:50
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Motronic posted:What is "best" if you can afford it almost always comes down to higher efficiency equipment that has been properly installed. I say highER not highEST where you get into big dollars and moon parts that may not be available in the future. But something on the higher end that pays off in 5 years is going to last another 15-20 where it keeps paying off. Something that is cheap and costs you enough fuel after 5 years to break even is going to KEEP SUCKING MORE FUEL for the next 15-20 years. good point... well, I don't think any of these options are going to be particularly prone to breaking down early. These are the models I'm looking at: American Standard – Platinum ZV 96.7% AFUE American Standard – Gold ZM 97% AFUE Lennox – Signature Collection SLP98V 98% AFUE Lennox – Elite Series EL296E 96% AFUE the range between them w/ installation factored in is ~$4800-$5800 roughly. and I should mention that he isn't trying to shanghai me here, I specifically asked for higher-end high-efficiency models for comparison. It's just difficult to pick between these based on how close they are in efficiency.
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Oct 21, 2013 23:56
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It comes down the service at this point. Do you have a bunch of Lennox dealers around that will have parts if you need them? Pick Lennox. More American Standard? Pick that. Same for both? Use your dart method. Unless you have someone you trust who actually know this stuff because they have worked on them in the repair end of the business for years (so therefore has a qualified opinion) it just doesn't matter. And even that probably doesn't matter because the plural of anecdote is not data. What you are looking at would seem to be pretty feature-compatible. You aren't looking at something with a single speed fan and compressor vs variable everything or something like that, so this is all a good apples-to-apples comparison. Every company makes crap that breaks eventually. Some have worse quality control then others. But on the higher end, it's gonna be pretty similar and as I've said before......the reliability and comfort will have much more to do with installation than the equipment. Directly ask him why you would choose something other than the least expensive model he's quoted. If any of the reasons are worth the addition cash, go for it.
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Oct 22, 2013 00:25
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I'm trying to replace the socket and cord in an old brass floor lamp, and I'm a baby when it comes to electricity. Previously it had a huge insulated ceramic socket like this, apparently called a mogul socket My girlfriend also had a converter in it to step the socket down to accept a standard sized bulb, and shortly after that, the socket shorted out  I have two questions: Is it ever dangerous to use one of those converters? Is there any reason I can't just replace the socket with one like this so it doesn't even need one of those converters? This is my current plan. Thanks for any help!
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Oct 22, 2013 05:59
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uncloudy day posted:I'm trying to replace the socket and cord in an old brass floor lamp, and I'm a baby when it comes to electricity. Previously it had a huge insulated ceramic socket like this, apparently called a mogul socket As long as the new socket fits the volt/amp/hz of your electricity you should be good to go. It is likely only two wires so pretty simple. I've never had a problem with those adapters but I don't think they are the proper way either. Handy in a pinch.
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Oct 22, 2013 12:23
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MMD3 posted:yeah, well I'm just trying to decide between options the heating guy gave me... it's a 1920's home, in a moderate climate (PNW), we want a gas furnace as opposed to a heat pump to keep the lady nice and toasty warm all winter... There are so drat many factors, I guess I just trust the heating guy and print his options out, staple them to the wall, and throw a dart at them to pick which is best. There are additional benefits to look at as well, though. Like, tax rebates for higher efficiency units can mean substantial savings upfront (well, next tax season, anyway), in addition to the decreased continuous utility cost. Higher efficiency units also produce less off gasses, making them safer for your home and the environment. They also produce cooler exhaust, meaning you have more options for ventilation. Just by way of an example, when we bought out first home, it was built in 1896, had a super lovely fuel oil furnace installed sometime in the 90s, and used the old chimney as an exhaust. We started renovations before moving in, which included taking down a drop tile ceiling. After removing a few tiles, we noticed a ton of soot. Long story short, the lovely old low efficiency furnace had a blow-out, popped a cap out of the side of the chimney, blew it across the drop ceiling, and embedded it into the plaster wall about 20' away. From the soot, it looked like for years it had been pumping poisonous gas and crap directly into the house. Not every failure is this dramatic, but exhausting out of the chimney is not at all atypical, and if the mortar comes loose or there's a crack, that gas can get out. So, for my money, I payed a slightly higher price up front for something about 95% efficient and did something I knew would be better overall in the long run. It's a furnace. They're important and suck to replace, so I figure better get one with a good reputation, and one that's good for the long haul. Even if you end up selling the place, it's a lot better to prospective buyers to see a new high efficiency unit than not. Personally, whenever I inspect a house, if I see a low efficiency unit, I assume the owners are either flipping the place, got taken in by a bad contractor (who charged them for a better unit), or didn't have any idea what they're doing. All of these are a red flags for me that more problems lurk within, because there's no reason to not go higher efficiency except that it's cheaper at that moment.
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Oct 22, 2013 14:49
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Killing Flies posted:There are additional benefits to look at as well, though. Like, tax rebates for higher efficiency units can mean substantial savings upfront (well, next tax season, anyway), This is a good point. Killing Flies posted:Higher efficiency units also produce less off gasses, making them safer for your home and the environment. They also produce cooler exhaust, meaning you have more options for ventilation. J This is not even a concern since we're talking about new equipment. I think the minimum is now 90% AFUE (as of 2013), which needs nothing more than PVC pipe. What does become a concern with these low temp exhausts on condensing furnaces is.....once again.....installation. I've been to more CO calls than I can count during and after snow storms. If the exhaust is mounted too low and snow drifts over it it's literally not hot enough to melt it all, so CO backs up into a "bubble" under the snow and migrates into the house, or sometimes even through the furnace itself because of excessive back pressure.
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Oct 22, 2013 15:34
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so.... for your guys money, American Standard or Lennox? I like this Honeywell Prestige IAQ thermostat and also the ComfortLinkII, I definitely want a smart thermostat but if both American Standard and Lennox will work for it then I am just going to decide based on reliability probably. The Lennox SLP98V would be a little cheaper than the American Standard Platinum ZV 96.7 and it's a variable/modulating whatever rather than a 2-stage so that's the way I'm leaning.
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Oct 22, 2013 17:05
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MMD3 posted:so.... for your guys money, American Standard or Lennox? I like this Honeywell Prestige IAQ thermostat and also the ComfortLinkII, I definitely want a smart thermostat but if both American Standard and Lennox will work for it then I am just going to decide based on reliability probably. What I would really suggest is getting two more quotes. I know you have the inlaw deal or w/e but see how two other companies size you. They may be aware of rebates unbeknownst to you.
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Oct 22, 2013 17:37
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:What I would really suggest is getting two more quotes. I know you have the inlaw deal or w/e but see how two other companies size you. They may be aware of rebates unbeknownst to you. oh, should've mentioned it but his estimates have the rebates called out, he has actually itemized the rebates we'd be eligible for from state and federal programs for each of the furnaces. It's essentially $692 in rebates for 97% and higher and $550 for the furnaces that are less than 97%. (Federal stays the same at $200, State jumps from $350-$492). This is from the first page of his bid:  and this is the furnace I'm leaning towards. 
MMD3 fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 18:12
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Yes he is your bff. An estimate from someone else costs you an hour of your time. We can't give you a great reply because you haven't invited us into your home. Call your gas co and see if they offer a free audit. They usually eat the cost of many upgrades. Are you honestly 100 percent going to live there for more than 4 years? Then buy the more efficient. e: My quote from May 2010. 2 bed 1 bath craftsman with semi-finished basement posted:-PROPOSAL- I had a $300 rebate from gas company and a couple hundred from the federal government, and another hundred or so from state government. So total was closer to 1800 I think. I love the humidifier and AIR BEAR. I did not get an extended warranty. I also got 3 other quotes to compare this to. 3 of 4 agreed on furnace sizing. The fourth pushed a bigger unit due to swiss cheese house, but the others took into consideration I was replacing windows and upping attic insulation within a year. EvilMayo fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 20:01
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MMD3 posted:so.... for your guys money, American Standard or Lennox? I like this Honeywell Prestige IAQ thermostat and also the ComfortLinkII, I definitely want a smart thermostat but if both American Standard and Lennox will work for it then I am just going to decide based on reliability probably. Both American Standard and Lennox are at the top of their respective product lines and as such are comparable in quality and reliability. You're choosing the dealer, not the equipment at this point.
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Oct 23, 2013 00:12
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uncloudy day posted:I'm trying to replace the socket and cord in an old brass floor lamp, and I'm a baby when it comes to electricity. Previously it had a huge insulated ceramic socket like this, apparently called a mogul socket For what it's worth, I have bought lamp sockets from these guys and the quality was excellent. If they sell a mogul socket (and that's what you want, and can still find mogul bulbs), go for it. You can also just convert it to a standard-base socket. As mentioned earlier, it's just a couple of wires. The most important thing you have to realize (after making sure the lamp is unplugged!) is that you run the 'hot' wire to the center contact...if you have polarized receptacles in your walls, the hot one is the narrower of the two slots. Your lamp cord should be marked - usually one line is smooth, the other grooved - to help you tell one from the other. I would guess that the original socket failed because the center contact wasn't making good contact to the adapter, which would create an arcing condition. Make sure the center contact on the socket is lifted a little - I have pried them up a little ways with a small screwdriver as insurance.
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Oct 23, 2013 04:51
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I have a small fenced in dog run that consists of 5 foot chain link fences. I have noticed coyotes jumping another fence around my house though and so I want to make the fence 8 feet high. I would really like to just add on to the existing fence by sliding a smaller post inside the existing 2 & 3/8 inch post and adding a new 3 foot tall section of fence on top. When I went to home depot / lowes though they only had the same sized pipe. Any idea on where I could get something like a 2 & 1/4 inch post?
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Oct 23, 2013 05:00
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Are you honestly 100 percent going to live there for more than 4 years? Then buy the more efficient. 4 years? For spending $1,000 to go from a 96% efficiency to 98% to pay for itself in 4 years, he'd have to be spending somewhere in the range of $12,000 a year. If his gas bill is less than $2,000/year, it will never pay for itself at all. If he actually does need enough heating for those very high efficiency furnaces to pay for themselves, he'd still probably get a better return from improving insulation.
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Oct 23, 2013 05:00
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What order should I go about remodeling a trailer home? I bought one hella cheap that includes the land and it needs some help. Plans: Fix skylight - drips into tub. Inspect roof and roll as necessary. Fix window - cut out small piece of glass, glue in plast, run cable wire in...why did this happen Paint - oh god it is bad. Ordered a graco sprayer. Hit all the walls with primer then paint with sprayer Flooring - rip out carpet and vinyl tile, put 1/8" underlay sheets, and do vinyl plank wood faux Dishwasher - my girlfriend didn't like the idea of her being one Counters - Redo the kitchen and master bathroom counter with formica Paint outside - Lastish Guest bath - tear out the vanity so new floor can go in and put a cheaper prefab in then put something up besides the plastic coated sheet in the shower area. I am hiring someone who will hopefully have a person or two helping plus what I can do, my girlfriend, and paying friends. My goal is to move in as fast as possible so flooring and painting would be required before that and hoping this can be done in two to three weeks. Figure first chance in I'll go tear out current flooring, check subfloor, prep cover for painting, and prepare for primer. After primer, paint, and then throw underlayment material for flooring before turning over to someone to do flooring, dishwasher, counters then go from there. Am I missing something? Should I feel in gaps in paneling with mud or will it not be worth the time/looks? Each month I stay in current living situation I'm out about $1500 VS fixing things faster and having no payment but I always don't want it to fall apartment in less than 5 years. Looking to budget around $6k for initial requirements to move in and can add more as needed to about $10k total. Thanks
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Oct 23, 2013 05:47
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If my trailer is any indication the wiring will be hilariously bad, so start budgeting for that. Mine had essentially two zones: A (refrigerator, microwave, two middle rooms, hallway and living room lighting) and B (coffeemaker, toaster, electric pilot for gas stove, living room, master bedroom) so if more than one person tried to use the kitchen 90+% of the time you'd trip a breaker. Plus all the outlets and switches are backstabs, so they're a fire hazard.
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Oct 23, 2013 14:54
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It is a 1993 Fleetwood so hopefully wiring is okayish. It will just be my gf and I and she doesn't really cook so might be ok with zones hah. The breaker box did seperate each room, ac, water heater, sdo hoping good. For covering vinyl walls and covering 1/8 floor underlay before installing vinyl plank, just oil base killz everything?
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Oct 23, 2013 18:02
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I'm pondering options for a wall around part of our property here to block off highway noise. I could see it going beyond 100 linear feet. I think we're looking at around 80 feet on the main side and then some more going around the two corners to complete blocking off the highway. we haven't quite measured out what we think most essentially needs a barrier. To get above the engines of passing construction vehicles, the wall would have to be 8 feet for most of it. I'm trying to consider various potentially creative possibilities. It looks like the cheapest would be to just get some fill dirt and build up a berm. That would suck away a lot of depth into the yard and IMO it would look like poo poo. So I wonder about cinder block and then if I could do even better. Some possibilities we have pondered:
I'm looking for thoughts and a conversation about the whole thing since I haven't really run into anybody else that has pondered this stuff before.
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Oct 24, 2013 05:56
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I don't have any good advice for you on wall building but have you considered getting your local government to build it? I have seen a lot of sound mitigating walls going up along the local interstates in the past few years (TN). Possibly you and your neighbors could petition for tax money to get it done.
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Oct 24, 2013 06:26
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Totally TWISTED posted:I don't have any good advice for you on wall building but have you considered getting your local government to build it? I have seen a lot of sound mitigating walls going up along the local interstates in the past few years (TN). Possibly you and your neighbors could petition for tax money to get it done. This being Texas, it's enough of a battle for them to fund new road construction, so I'm not counting on it. I suppose something worth mentioning is this house has a kind of quirky 1960's cross of a Spanish Mission style of house, so having a wall even going all the way around the property would fit right in if done right.
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Oct 24, 2013 06:39
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Sound has a way of going everywhere. Soundproofing is quite difficult and expensive to do right. Sound barriers on highways can sometimes be 20-30 feet tall or more and almost a foot thick. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but an effective barrier will probably cost you more than you are wanting to spend, and an 8 foot wall will likely not be very effective.
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Oct 24, 2013 14:10
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Cosmik Debris posted:Sound has a way of going everywhere. Soundproofing is quite difficult and expensive to do right. Sound barriers on highways can sometimes be 20-30 feet tall or more and almost a foot thick. It is only a 2-lane undivided highway (can't speak for 20+ years from now), with a 55MPH speed limit, so it's not that intense. Regardless, it does get a lot of use. Some surrounding communities have erected their own walls, and we were thinking of finding a sucker this Saturday, around the time things get loud, to try to get a good listen in the back yard and ask the other homeowners how they think it has worked out. As a fallback, we may just set one up across one side of the back yard so at least we're not hearing it all the way back there. Also, the highway side has some old windows, and we have found newer windows elsewhere in the house are doing a better job of cutting off sound there.
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Oct 24, 2013 15:28
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Room for trees to soften the noise ?
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Oct 24, 2013 16:00
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So the idiot previous owner of my house built this deck, with the beams going straight into the ground. Do you guys think I should just demo the whole thing? Or try and replace the rotted wood and lift the whole thing on cement blocks?
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Oct 24, 2013 23:13
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crutt posted:So the idiot previous owner of my house built this deck, with the beams going straight into the ground. Do you guys think I should just demo the whole thing? Or try and replace the rotted wood and lift the whole thing on cement blocks? Depends on how much of the wood is rotten and how many friends you have to lift the deck up while putting blocks underneath it. As I type this though I'm thinking that you really should have concrete foundations so you can have a more level finished product which may be pretty tricky without moving the deck out of the way entirely.
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Oct 24, 2013 23:22
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Totally TWISTED posted:Depends on how much of the wood is rotten and how many friends you have to lift the deck up while putting blocks underneath it. Yes on the first (assuming it was framed properly to begin with), WTF on the second. That's what jacks and cribbing are for. And wile it's a lovely job, it is entirely possible to dig post holes below the front line and place proper posts under there. 2 or 3 bags of quickcrete in each and backfill in the morning. It's not rocket science, but it will probalby take several days of a couple hours of work each day as you make you way around. If a few joists are rotted that bad you can either replace them or sister new joists. I know a lot of people love them some tear down and start over, but it's not always practical, financially reasonable or necessary.
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Oct 24, 2013 23:47
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Motronic posted:WTF on the second. That's what jacks and cribbing are for. 
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Oct 25, 2013 00:04
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Room for trees to soften the noise ? Came here to post this. Plant evergreens (like Douglas firs) every six feet. They suck up an amazing amount of sound. Comedy bamboo option, but everyone around you will hate you within five years unless you have perpetual anger issues and a machete.
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Oct 25, 2013 05:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Came here to post this. Plant evergreens (like Douglas firs) every six feet. They suck up an amazing amount of sound. Clumping bamboo isn't nearly as bad as running bamboo at spreading out of control. Clumping bamboo just offsets from the parent plant, while running bamboo sends out underground rhizomes in all directions. The problem is that for Rocko's situation, spreading would be exactly what you'd need to fill in over such a long area quickly. The good news is that in somewhere as warm as Texas, you should have plenty of options for bamboo that would survive the winter.
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Oct 25, 2013 06:43
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Speed bumps on the highway?
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Oct 25, 2013 11:47
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kid sinister posted:Clumping bamboo isn't nearly as bad as running bamboo at spreading out of control. Clumping bamboo just offsets from the parent plant, while running bamboo sends out underground rhizomes in all directions. The problem is that for Rocko's situation, spreading would be exactly what you'd need to fill in over such a long area quickly. Bamboo Garden and other Bamboo nurseries sell heavy duty plastic barriers to keep bamboo from spreading too much. http://www.bamboogarden.com/barrier.htm
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Oct 25, 2013 14:57
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I just bought my first house this summer and I am using the heat pump for the first time and I think something may be wrong. The heater is not producing heat unless I force it to go on the auxiliary heaters. The defrost cycle seems to be working fine, except that one freon line (click for image) frosts over permanently. I know that the outside of the heat pump is supposed to get frosty and will defrost during a defrost cycle. However I'm not sure if the freon lines are supposed be frosting up? I recently changed the air filter if that helps anything. I'm wondering if this is something I can attempt to fix by myself before spending $200 to have someone take a look at it.
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Oct 25, 2013 23:37
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I'm working on plans for a workshop I want to build in my (suburban) back yard. The plan is to go fully-permitted (but not as "habitable" space, so no insulation etc. requirements). 16'x24', one big room, concrete slab foundation, but that still leaves a lot of leeway in the actual design. I'm a reasonably handy person, but strictly a hobbyist -- I'd be hiring contractors to handle the foundation pour and any electrical work (no plans for water at the moment). I'd like to do most of the actual construction myself though. Outbuildings around here can't go above 12' tall, which means with 8' walls I can get something like a 4:12 slope on the roof at most. We have a temperate climate; no snow, moderate rainfall, plenty of fog, no heavy winds. I'd appreciate some advice, specifically: * Do I need diagonal bracing for the walls, or should I just rely on the siding? * Is there any particular reason besides cost why I shouldn't use 2x6s for the sole plate, studs, and top plate? I mean, why engineer when you can overengineer? * A standard flat joist ceiling "wastes" the volume above the joists. It's only 2-3 feet or so, but it could be useful as storage or something. Would it be possible to space the joists and rafters wider than normal, like say every 3' OC, by using doubled 2x6s or something? Then I could lay down some plywood and access the space up there with a ladder. * Alternately, a vaulted ceiling would leave the entire interior volume open, but I get the impression that a 24' ridge beam would be a big expense and difficult to install. I could probably put up a support post in the center of the slab (presumably secured to the slab via anchor bolts and some kind of 90° straps). Thoughts? And bottom line: how nuts of a project is this? I'm drawing up my plans in Blender, and eventually will be taking them over to the building inspector to get them approved. I've never tackled a project this big before.
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Oct 25, 2013 23:45
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Seph posted:I just bought my first house this summer and I am using the heat pump for the first time and I think something may be wrong. The heater is not producing heat unless I force it to go on the auxiliary heaters. The defrost cycle seems to be working fine, except that one freon line (click for image) frosts over permanently. I know that the outside of the heat pump is supposed to get frosty and will defrost during a defrost cycle. However I'm not sure if the freon lines are supposed be frosting up? I recently changed the air filter if that helps anything. The outside of the heat pump is not supposed to "get frosty." You likely have a low refrigerant charge due to a leak somewhere. You'll need a pro to find the leak, repair it, and recharge the system properly if that's the case. Even if it's not the case, step 1 is having a manifold gauge and knowing how to use it. E: also, that looks like a terrible install. It's sitting on randomly scattered 4x4s and the line set isn't insulated. You should really have someone who knows what they are doing check out the entire system. It's also a Goodman, who will sell to ANYONE (which is why they have a less than stellar reputation). That adds up to it having been installed by the lowest bidder. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 23:54
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Motronic posted:The outside of the heat pump is not supposed to "get frosty." During the inspection the inspector said my air handler is really old, but the heat pump is newish (2011). Do you think that could be contributing to this? I did some basic research and I read that having a mismatched air handler and heat pump can really mess with the air flow. Since you said it seems to be poorly installed, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and get a whole new system installed.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:10
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 00:47 |
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Seph posted:During the inspection the inspector said my air handler is really old, but the heat pump is newish (2011). Do you think that could be contributing to this? I did some basic research and I read that having a mismatched air handler and heat pump can really mess with the air flow. Since you said it seems to be poorly installed, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and get a whole new system installed. If they just slapped whatever condenser out there and it's not matched it could absolutely be causing your problems - including whatever other problems were created by a hamfisted install. I can't tell you it's time to install a new system entirely - what you have may very well be easily correctable. But only someone who is both qualified and actually standing in front of it can tell you that for sure.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:15
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