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What is that thing, 7-8 feet? Unless that pallet is really small or something
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Oct 17, 2013 17:39
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Really I think your only option is a hydraulic pump mounted to the crankshaft, but that will take a bit of $$. Trying to get that much power off the flywheel ring gear will cause things to melt in a hurry. Might make more sense to get a big V-twin mower engine to run the snow blower.
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Oct 18, 2013 04:25
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Yeah, unfortunately that is the conclusion I'm coming to myself. We'll see. rscott, close, it's 6 foot 6. 8 foot would be nice, but I'll take 6.5 for $400 assuming I can find a way to attach it for under $200, which I suspect I can.
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Oct 18, 2013 04:31
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Lead acid batteries are getting expensive, drat. Just blew $130 but at least the truck will start again.
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Oct 20, 2013 19:49
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kastein posted:Lead acid batteries are getting expensive, drat. Just blew $130 but at least the truck will start again. That's not bad for a battery bigger than something to start a Mighty Boy or similar.
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Oct 20, 2013 21:07
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Kastein, is this the company you work for? http://www.cnn.com/video/data/2.0/video/bestoftv/2013/10/17/exp-erin-dnt-terrafugia-fly-car-coming-soon.cnn.html
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Oct 20, 2013 21:30
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General_Failure posted:That's not bad for a battery bigger than something to start a Mighty Boy or similar. Or two normal sized batteries anyhow.
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Oct 20, 2013 22:12
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Coasterphreak posted:Kastein, is this the company you work for? I can neither confirm nor deny  yes. If you or any other AIers are in the area, ring me up (number's on the website, just ask for Ken when you call) and as long as you are willing to sign and adhere to our NDA, I can probably arrange a tour. Oh and don't be a goony gently caress to my coworkers because I enjoy working here. So uh... diesel people. Is this motor healthy sounding for a ~60 year old multifuel/diesel engine design, or do I have rod knock? I can't tell worth a drat, I'm used to gas engines. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8_9NwpEXps e: youtube is still processing, give it time. I said batteries were expensive, didn't I?  Put two 1000cca group 31s in it. They look exactly like Exides, just with a no name label and SECOND branded in the top of the plastic housing, probably due to minor flaws. Even if they are kinda lovely, it was $130 for two, cash and carry, brand fuckin' new, so it was worth it. 925cca Exide group 31s are $100 each at TSC as of today. Also had to throw a couple battery cables between the studs of the two batteries because the new ones have 3/8" threaded top posts while the old ones had auto style top posts, which I hate. And the intermediate cable from the old setup had the top post clamps cast onto it. Hopefully ACE posts the videos he took of the 5 ton multicolored turd driving sometime. I then tore the trans tunnel access panels off and managed to find the airline that's been leaking forever, which was pissing me off. Went off to Home Depot for some 3/8" copper line and a packet of compression fitting rings, once I finish eating I'm gonna head back outside and finish that off so it won't leak air anymore. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 01:01
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kastein posted:
Good question. Most of where you have the camera sounds like a normal old diesel but some spots it does have the tappy sound of petrol rod knock. My gut says it's just the way it sounds. Go listen to some diesel rod knock sounds on Youtube. Very nasty sound.
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Oct 21, 2013 01:21
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No offense but that is something I could figure out myself ("watch videos on youtube"). Ultimateforce says it's rod knock, Fart Pipe says it aint. Ace says it sounded normal to him when he was here while it was running. I think it sounds normal but it's the first diesel this large I've worked on significantly and it's the first one I've had to personally worry about blowing a rod through the block on, paying to have towed home, and then worrying about logistics of getting a new 2000lb engine home and into the truck in the middle of the woods, which is affecting my impressions of how the motor sounds most likely. Batteries in their box. It's sized for a pair of 6TLs but I don't really feel like spending that kind of cash and it started in one crank with even the old lovely batteries in the middle of winter before they completely went to poo poo, so I'm not too concerned about cranking time with a pair of good 1000cca batteries.  Those are two #4 cables from +12 of the low battery to -12 of the high battery, I probably should crimp up a 16" #0 or #2/0 cable at some point but I'll deal with that later. That was the best I could scare up locally in 10 minutes, we have a good crimper for large lugs at work so I'll order the cable and lugs at some point and crimp one up after hours. Whipped out the air shift line from the transmission to the transfer case so I can move it back into its usual parking space tomorrow morning before I leave for work.  The trouble spot was that narrow place between the cab mounting rail and the top cover of the transmission. The old copper line was routed through there for some reason and got pinched, crushed partway, then slowly rubbed though, probably over the course of several years.  Other end  gently caress you, worn out airline. Can't wait to hear it run tomorrow morning without sounding like a leaky boiler, it's been leaking air for literally years, basically ever since a few weeks after it broke down for the first time. e: and I need to cut out a few blocks of pressure treated lumber to put in between the two batteries so they don't slide around, as well. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 04:55
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kastein posted:No offense but that is something I could figure out myself ("watch videos on youtube"). While I haven't worked on big diesels I've spent time around them and driven them. That clacking didn't sound too out of place to me. It's great to see this being brought fully back to life by the way. I've been waiting for ages to see this happen. e: Something I forgot to add. Unless it has minor rod knock on every rod in equal amounts the frequency of the tapping sound is too high for an idling diesel. What does that engine idle at? I really think you are just hearing the magic of diesel engines. Let's hope I'm right about it not being rod knock on every cylinder, eh? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 05:36
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If you think it's the noise that's happening on every cylinder you need your ears checked, or should listen to the noise that ISN'T happening every cylinder. That's the one I'm worried about, the whole drat point is that one or two cylinders sound different from the rest. I know a diesel is louder than a gas engine drat it, I just wasn't sure if they typically had a sort of lopey rattle or if the cylinders should all rattle the same way. It definitely has rod knock on #5 or #6, I heard it very clearly when I started it up this morning to back it into its parking spot. It was much easier to hear with the trans tunnel access plate removed. Either that or it's a really leaky head gasket (again) but I don't think so. If it goes away when I do the HG I'll know for sure. Oh well, I was afraid that it had rod knock a year ago. This isn't all that disappointing. PS: that means UF and I were right, and agreed on something. A first to be sure. Ace uploaded the video of it driving for the first time in... a year? a year and a half? two years? I forget. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJ-7U12bQ8M It's still spraying large quantities of oil from between the two cylinder heads (two 3-cyl heads on an inline engine... else the head would just be too drat heavy to lift, they weigh 100+ each as it is) so clearly it needs some work. I'm going to pull the heads soonish and get them magnafluxed, resurfaced, maybe a valve job, then slap them back on with the good revision head gaskets this time around. kastein fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 14:49
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kastein posted:
I'm sorry that's the case. How available are the parts, and can work be done without the engine being removed? From my perspective it sounded like uneven injector charge and fairly even diesel tap when you stuck the camera down the side. The head / gasket needs to be done anyway so I suppose that's a way of finding out, assuming if it is rod knock it's viable to fix. If not, more power to you. No matter what you have an awesome truck that a lot of people would give their right nut to get their hands on.
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Oct 21, 2013 21:27
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kastein posted:If you think it's the noise that's happening on every cylinder you need your ears checked, or should listen to the noise that ISN'T happening every cylinder. That's the one I'm worried about, the whole drat point is that one or two cylinders sound different from the rest. I know a diesel is louder than a gas engine drat it, I just wasn't sure if they typically had a sort of lopey rattle or if the cylinders should all rattle the same way. I'm not hearing it on the video - sounds a lot like the Cummins in my Dad's Dodge, really. Too bad it's not road legal - I'd say take it to a diesel mechanic and pay him a few bucks for a professional opinion.
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Oct 21, 2013 23:20
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It sounds no more knocky that my 7300hr old perkins 6 pot in the Massey MF3095 im hurtling around the countryside in these days
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Oct 22, 2013 08:48
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How many 4.0s can you fit in the engine bay
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Oct 22, 2013 18:26
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Galler posted:How many 4.0s can you fit in the engine bay Not enough  A 4.0 makes more power, but nowhere near as much torque. I guess that's what happens when you have 4 liters of gas engine instead of 7.8 liters of high compression turbo multifuel Seriously though, I am fairly certain it has rod knock ever since I ran it with the trans tunnel cover off. I may be wrong though, so I'll try and remember to take a video tonight with it running so people can judge for themselves with the mic actually close to the spot where you can hear it. I'll probably flail around with the mechanics stethoscope a bit too.
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Oct 22, 2013 20:09
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its hard to tell from the sound , but to me it sounds like any old large diesel i have been around, my old diesel had a leaky injector that i was convinced was rod knock. 1 injector replaced , all of them calibrated , fixed. i am probably completely wrong though , love the thread
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Oct 23, 2013 08:23
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I can't hear the rod knock as well. I would take a gander at something else.
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Oct 23, 2013 15:27
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I really hope you guys are right, but it sounds too similar. We'll see I guess. I got home at 2AM and had to be up at 6 else I would have a better video by now. Ah well, hopefully tonight. e: I got a limited slip for the crapcan XJ at the junkyard last weekend and also picked up a new cherry bomb for it at the swap meet I went to, so some upgrades are in order. Just haven't gotten my rockauto order yet... kastein fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Oct 23, 2013 |
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Oct 23, 2013 15:44
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kastein posted:I really hope you guys are right, but it sounds too similar. We'll see I guess. JOIN THE loving CLUB. Seems like those fuckers spend two days handling the god drat package before it gets out their door. I need cheap car parts and magnets of shittys kthx.
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Oct 23, 2013 16:27
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrjILCfqW-Q Sure sounds like rod knock to me, but I could see it being: 1. goofy head gasket or exhaust leak? Probably not, it doesn't sound like a tick like the HG leak used to. 2. misadjusted valves? They're solid lifters and I did the valve lash alone in the middle of the winter so it may just be wrong. 3. injector fouled or mismatched so that cylinder just sounds different? 4. piston slap? I could live with any/all of the above, preferably 1 or 2 since they will be fixed when I do the head gaskets over again. e: video edit in progress still, if it's more than like 50 seconds skip to 0:38.
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Oct 24, 2013 07:15
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I don't hear anything different from what I am used to hearing with those things, but it has been about 13 years sine I last heard one. Maybe it is too subtle a noise for me to notice.
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Oct 24, 2013 13:05
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It is very, very audibly only one (or maybe two, I'm not good at this) cylinders at around 0:18 or so. Sounds like someone tapping on a countertop with a screwdriver compared to the other cylinders. On the other hand it might just be an old rattly diesel/multifuel. I'm not ruling that out, just freaking the gently caress out because it's a 2000lb engine I know has been sick, I have no way to buy a new one for cheap (like all my other vehicles) and no way to swap it myself right now. I'm really not used to that. It has good oil pressure when it hasn't leaked all its oil out. Mostly I am worried because I overheated the poo poo out of it on the return trip from PA (story in OP) and I know for a fact it ended up with several gallons of coolant in the sump for an undetermined period of time, up to several months, over the winter 2010/2011 when I was putting it back together in a friend's yard. A gasket leaked unexpectedly and the valve covers weren't tightened down so the coolant just trickled down under them, through the oil passages and straight into the sump. It was never run like that fortunately, just sat like that and then was drained, but it gave me a hell of a scare. Also, based on the current poo poo HGs it has in it and the way the oil under the valve covers was very milky and emulsified I started freaking out all over again. That could easily just be that it's an open ventilation system engine (slobber tube instead of a PCV system... need to change that sometime) and sat without running for something like a year and a half, but add all the water/oil concerns I just listed up and you might see why I'm worrying. I think I'm gonna just slap the new HGs in, redo the heads, then change the oil and run it up, see how it does, if things still seem odd I may drop the pan and check for play in the rod bearings or pull some caps. They could probably stand to be retorqued anyways, the military depot rebuild engines aren't known for their quality. The pan is going to be a bastard to get out though because it's sorta surrounding the front diff.
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Oct 24, 2013 16:43
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HEY CHECK OUT MY FORMER XJs    The white '99 I bought for a song in FL and took it to NY. The green '97 (5 speed!) I found for 1k with some issues that were easy fixes. I was running a campground on 275 acres and they were my work horses. I sold the '99 before I moved back to FL and made a decent profit, the '97 I traded to my brother in law for a minivan lol.
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Oct 24, 2013 17:00
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OK, I just listened to the video with headphones on and I have to say there's not much to go on with that. If it's rod knock, it's very light an probably easily salvageable if you don't run it too much more like that. But I'd say it's just as likely that you have one or more injectors shitted up, which is a much easier proposition to deal with. If I were in your position, I'd be going after the injectors first, as they likely need to be serviced anyway. e: Missed your edit......piston slap? I suppose it COULD be, but that should go away when warm and off idle unless the skirts are pretty horribly damaged. If the injectors don't do the trick you should be able to see some telltale scoring at the bottoms of the bores when you have the pan off. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Oct 24, 2013 |
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Oct 24, 2013 17:01
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Good to know, thanks. IIRC one of the injectors was pretty badly coked up when I pulled it apart last time because it hadn't been running right for a while, then it blew the head gasket due to overheat. Having them serviced isn't a bad idea especially since I have it in the yard now instead of 100 miles away.
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Oct 24, 2013 17:08
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I'll have to check it out in person but it really doesn't sound like rod knock.
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Oct 24, 2013 17:11
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kastein posted:IIRC one of the injectors was pretty badly coked up when I pulled it apart last time This alone should make your rock knock fears greatly reduced from "oh poo poo oh poo poo" to a mere possibility down the list. Diesels sound like that when they aren't getting fueled properly. Listen to any old rear end air compressor that runs off of a diesel (the kinds that run on 4 cyl and use the last 2 solely for compressing air). They always sound like they're ready to throw a rod. Further edit: Have you ever had an old diesel that you started in the cold that had one or more bad glow plugs? You get the exact same sound until the motor warms itself up on those cylinders because they are essentially under-fueled (not burning completely). Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 24, 2013 |
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Oct 24, 2013 17:14
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Yea I have an old Kubota tractor with a 2 cylinder diesel and it does that exact thing before the second cylinder lights up on a cold start.
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Oct 24, 2013 17:40
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Yeah, that just sounds like an old utility diesel engine getting back on its feet after a few months of downtime.
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Oct 25, 2013 14:39
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Well, I'm still going to freak out about it, but I think I can put off buying bearings and planning when I'll drop the pan now that everyone else on the planet says it isn't rod knock. Tonight after work (starting a few minutes before 6 local time...) I decided to do the heater core on my POS DD XJ because morning commutes are getting pretty frigid. 6PM: driven into the shop at work, unload tools and parts 7:02:  7:42:  7:50:   8:15:  (the dealer wanted $59 for the gasket set that consists of 3 diecut closed cell foam rubber self adhesive gaskets. gently caress paying that kind of money, this roll of 7/16" weatherstripping cost $8 at home depot.)  9:38:  Of course I managed to blow up a rusty brake line by looking at it funny or something (dammit!) and the brake light switch now doesn't touch the pedal arm for mysterious reasons, so it looks like I have some more loving about to do before I can leave. mo' jeeps... mo' problems. I will have to tear this whole thing apart again sometime in the spring to put a new AC evap coil in it because it was pretty badly corroded and there was nothing left of the system charge Black88GTA helped me put in it back in August. Also, I forgot my AC line tools (this vehicle uses those godforsaken coil spring clip things instead of bolted connections, but at least doesn't use flared fittings) so I ended up using a pair of boltcutters to get the AC evap coil disconnected from the lines, so it is hosed either way. Made sure not to damage anything else in the system so I should be able to just bolt one in, draw a vacuum, and recharge it again. e: my first heater core replacement ever, and got it done in 5 hours I wasn't even moving all that fast, either. I bet with practice I could crank a 97-01 XJ heater core replacement out in 3 hours door to door.
kastein fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 03:43
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My jeep blew its rear hardline when I was getting new tires mounted.. They just seem love to choose the best times.
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Oct 26, 2013 06:30
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Walked 3.5 miles to get the brake line at the parts store today... but found a $35 snapon TSM21 (21mm deep 6 point 1/2 drive socket) on the side of the road on the way back. Worth it I guess, this socket is exactly what I've wished I had every time I've done leaf springs or shackles on an XJ/MJ.
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Oct 26, 2013 16:31
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kastein posted:and the brake light switch now doesn't touch the pedal arm for mysterious reasons How are your pedal brackets looking? If I recall correctly, we've had a few pictures recently of almost-fragged clutch and/or brake pedal brackets with huge fractures and cracks. Definitely giving all mine a once-over this fall.
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Oct 26, 2013 16:39
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They actually look great, some surface rust on the part up under the dash because they're unpainted from the factory but otherwise perfect. I solved the problem by taking a piece of 1/8" steel strap and using a 4lb hammer and a vise to form it into a sort of C-clip that fit perfectly on the front edge of the pedal arm, then squeezing it down with the vise till it was a good tight friction fit and pressing it onto the pedal arm under the dash with a bigass pair of channel-loks. Works perfectly. There are two remaining original hard brake lines on this jeep, the one from the rear axle center hose to the left rear cylinder and the one from the master cylinder to the front right caliper. The front left exploded last night and I'm about to replace it, going to inspect the front right and decide if I should replace or repair while I'm bleeding the brakes. The front right is a bastard to get out since it's buried under harnesses and the back of the engine and stuff so I'll probably just repair it with a double flare union about a foot back from where it passes through the fender liner, that's the only part that gets rusty on that line.
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Oct 26, 2013 16:47
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Aaaaaand we have heat! And no coolant leaks! And the brakes work better than they did before. The AC evap core will cost me 79 and change at autozone, I am going to throw it on the rockauto list when I get home. And maybe deal with it in the spring because pulling the dash was somewhat annoying. If I forget, someone remind me to fix the wiring for the right front door and install the harness for the overhead console next time I pull the dash, it would make both those repairs much easier.
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Oct 26, 2013 18:55
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I spy with my little eye a clutch pedal.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:01
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I spy with my little eye a clutch pedal. And the unmistakable form of an AX15 shifter.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:18
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| # ? May 23, 2024 12:30 |
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Actually that is an AW4 shifter. The only thing I did was swap in the pedal box and drill the firewall holes for the master cylinder because both are easy with the dash out and a bastard with it in. Still need to collect or fabricate a number of parts for the full 5 speed swap. The auto is starting to lurch into gear and shift funny sometimes so I am planning ahead because there is no way I am wasting my time on putting another auto in. AW4s are good slushboxes but I am very hard on them and prefer manual anyways.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:22
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