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Would something like this work? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-22...uct_description I'd like to stick with something relatively quiet and the Ryobi gets pretty good reviews considering it's half the cost of other inverter generators of similar wattage.
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Oct 7, 2013 20:50
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powderific posted:Would something like this work? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-22...uct_description I'd like to stick with something relatively quiet and the Ryobi gets pretty good reviews considering it's half the cost of other inverter generators of similar wattage. That one only has enough wattage to support 15 amps. I would look at something more like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Generac-GP-3-250-Watt-Gasoline-Powered-Portable-Generator-5982/202831472?N=bx9nZ12l8#.UlMeyGzD-Uk It has enough continuous watts for around 27 amps. It's also less expensive.
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Oct 7, 2013 21:54
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powderific posted:Wouldn't I need a pretty beefy generator to run power tools? I don't want something super crazy loud but not super crazy loud but powerful seems to be hella expensive. Electrical requirements depends on what power tool. When first starting, and if you stall them while cutting, motors are essentially a short circuit and can draw several times their rated current. Make sure the generator is sized for the in-rush. You'll get a lot of voltage drop over extension cords, too, and can stall motors more easily. If you run an extension cord, get a good one with a thick gauge, like #10, and don't get it any longer than you need it. Also, breakers have what's called a trip curve, where the more overloaded it is, the faster it will trip. So a 20A breaker may run at 22A forever without tripping, may run at 25A for a few minutes, 35A for a few seconds, or 60A+ in-rush for a fraction of a second. Add that 60A in-rush to a 12A load that's already running and it may trip instantly. grover fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 23:41
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For some reason I didn't consider just putting one part of the equation on the generator and the leaving the other on existing power. A standard generator would likely be too loud for where I'm at, unfortunately, so I think I need to stick within inverter ones. Anything that could power both a saw and a shop vac looks crazy expensive, but just the shop vac looks like it'd be fine on the Ryobi I posted earlier. Edit: In other news, I picked up a used Festool Trion today and it's fantastic. Never knew a jigsaw could cut so nicely.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:57
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So I rented a Festool TS55 Plunge/Track saw for cutting off a cm or so from the bottom of 4 of my doors, since I wanted it to be very straight. Now I feel like I _really_ want to buy a proper Track saw  So hard to justify the expense though, since I honestly don't really need one very often (the circular saw I have is usually fine), and renting one for a day is only like $10 for the few occasions where I'd need it :/ Might buy myself one as a gift to celebrate a promotion at work or something, cause drat. Those things are pretty neat.
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Oct 16, 2013 08:26
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Buffis posted:So I rented a Festool TS55 Plunge/Track saw for cutting off a cm or so from the bottom of 4 of my doors, since I wanted it to be very straight. I was in the same boat, had some sticker shock from the Festool prices. BUT I finally bit the bullet and purchased a CT26 vacuum and a TS75 track saw and they are fantastic. It was either that or buy a big, bulky table saw and I couldn't justify the footprint of a table saw in the garage. My latest home renovation I couldn't have done without the track saw was making a faux wood beam for our kitchen. I just cased the 2x4's with 3/4" plywood cut with the TS75, even mitered the edges to where they joined up nicely.  How about those bubblegum pink countertops?? 
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Oct 16, 2013 17:17
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johnnyonetime posted:How about those bubblegum pink countertops?? You renovated your kitchen and gave it a countertop from the 50's? Or are you a Barbie girl in the Barbie world?
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Oct 17, 2013 00:29
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Guessing those are the original countertops.
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Oct 17, 2013 00:31
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kid sinister posted:You renovated your kitchen and gave it a countertop from the 50's? Or are you a Barbie girl in the Barbie world? Nah, those are the last on the list to replace. Glad we didn't do them first because now they are paint splattered, banged up from dropping tools and other things on them. And BTW those countertops were installed in 1987. There was rose red colored carpet in both bathrooms when we bought the place... 
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Oct 17, 2013 17:35
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Hey guys. Thinking of getting a new drill and impact here shortly. Looking for opinions on Milwaukee, Hilti, and Makita stuff. I'm heavily leaning towards Milkwaukee at this point. I'm an electrician and we have drills provided at every site so I've used pretty much every brand of drill at this point and so far these have been the 3 above the rest for me. That said I've never used them for any great length of time to know how the drills and batteries hold up over the long term.
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Oct 17, 2013 17:53
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I've never had problems with Makita tools. I had a couple of old 12v NiCd Makitas that worked just great for over a decade (the battery life got bad as you'd expect but the tools themselves were completely fine), replaced it last year with new 20v lithium tools and haven't looked back. Great stuff. Also Makita has the best corporate color of all the major power tool companies  e: and the charger plays classical music when the batteries are done 
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Oct 17, 2013 22:01
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CMvan46 posted:Hey guys. I'm like a broken record on this but Milwaukee beats everyone on selection - by a lot. Just glance at their site. I don't think quality is better than Makita, Dewalt, Bosch etc. but having a wide selection of tools that run off the same batteries is pretty important (including the growing brushless line in both 18V and 12V). I've also noticed home depot carrying more and more milwaukee tools tool-only. Once you have a couple batteries that's a big money saver.
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Oct 18, 2013 03:41
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I've been using my M12 brushless impact driver and hammer drill for a few months now and Im thoroughly impressed. The power and battery life are comparable to the previous generation 18v IMO but they're half the weight and size. Can easily and comfortably clip it to your belt. Really like the battery warning feature where it flashes the meter and then if you ignore that, it pauses the motor for a second so you really know its time to stop before you get your bit stuck. The two speed drive on the impact driver is also handy
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Oct 18, 2013 04:14
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Milwaukee has a lot of stuff I wouldn't expect to be cordless, like grease guns and vacuums and poo poo. I just picked up a Bosch 23 gauge pin nailer and Senco compressor to help me keep stuff aligned while I clamp or pocket screw stuff together. Pretty handy for the little bit I've used them so far. My favorite thing so far is that the compressor is actually very quiet, as is the pin nailer. One question I had though: the instructions say not to leave the compressor in freezing temperatures. Since I have a detached, unheated garage, that'd mean bringing it in from my garage every night in the winter. Is that really necessary? (edit: it's really light so it wouldn't be a huge issue to do so if necessary.)
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Oct 18, 2013 16:12
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powderific posted:Milwaukee has a lot of stuff I wouldn't expect to be cordless, like grease guns and vacuums and poo poo. And heated jackets in colors ranging from women's pink to hunting camo, pex cutters, band saws, rotary hammers all in 12 and18V 12V Jackets:  Speaking of the vacuum I'll also say again that it's been my best tool ever (dewalt has a couple good ones too). I used it as a leaf blower over the weekend and a few days before that I was vacuuming up toilet water. asdf32 fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Oct 19, 2013 |
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Oct 18, 2013 17:51
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rotor posted:oic, makes sense. Also WD-40 smells awesome, and Tap Magic smells like someone is deep frying spit  . On a side note, I've tapped tons of smallish holes in brass and some in aluminum using a tap in a cordless drill quickly and with very little drama. YMMV, depending on material thickness and tap size.
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Oct 20, 2013 18:00
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What is the normal procedure for stopping a chainsaw from oozing bar oil all over the ground? I have two old Stihls, a MS250 and a 240AV and both tend to leak when stored over time. I have been keeping them over an old frisbee, but I would rather they just not leak.
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Oct 23, 2013 19:18
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Mercury Ballistic posted:What is the normal procedure for stopping a chainsaw from oozing bar oil all over the ground? I have two old Stihls, a MS250 and a 240AV and both tend to leak when stored over time. I have been keeping them over an old frisbee, but I would rather they just not leak. My new husqvarna has a tension nut that is supposed to control the flow of bar oil, and it mostly does. Don't know about those brands, but you should check on line.
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Oct 23, 2013 22:01
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tiananman posted:Don't know about those brands, but you should check on line. The 250 doesn't. I have one and it leaks a bit. Not much you can do, but thicker oil leaks less, obviously.
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Oct 24, 2013 00:13
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My chainsaw leaks as well. I wonder if storing it at an incline, bar on the high side, would stop or slow the leak.
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Oct 24, 2013 02:13
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wormil posted:My chainsaw leaks as well. I wonder if storing it at an incline, bar on the high side, would stop or slow the leak. All five of mine leak. They're just marking territory.
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Oct 24, 2013 02:17
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If you store then with the left side down, they wont leak/will leak less. Obviously this doesn't work with a long bar unless you rest it on something. It's just leaking past the oil pump. They're a giant pain to replace and 2-6oz of oil leakage isn't really a terrible waste. I don't really recommend turning down the oil flow control to keep it from leaking. That should always be cranked wide open, and you'll probably forget someday and toast a bar and chain. This is assuming that it's leaking out from the bar and not because the cap is loose or something.
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Oct 24, 2013 02:24
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I've found if I store mine vertically, with the chain bar pointing up, the oil doesn't leak. Might depend on the design of it.
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Oct 24, 2013 02:38
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I guess I will stick with the Frisbee drip pan. Good to hear it is a normalish issue.
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Oct 24, 2013 03:15
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Mine leaks too, even after replacing the pump because it was hosed, previously it didn't let any oil out even when it was supposed to. I just store it on the kitchen floor for now because I haven't torn it out yet and know I'm going to need to. I'll have to remember the frisbee idea for when I actually have floors I care about 
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Oct 24, 2013 19:13
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I have been doing some plumbing in my house, and decided I should buy pex tools. Anyone have any recommendation? I used sharkbites on the 3 connections I made, but at some point I want to rid the house of the old poly-b pipes that my insurance doesn't like. When I do that, I probably shouldn't use sharkbites on the whole house. Im guessing I need a crimper and a cutter? I don't know much other than I went to home depot and bought 10 ft of pex for $5 instead of all my money for copper. There are distribution blocks, should I get them for the house when I redo the pipes? I have crawlspace access so I can get to all the first story connections, and the upstairs ones were redone when the bathroom was reno'ed.
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Oct 24, 2013 21:11
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blindjoe posted:I have been doing some plumbing in my house, and decided I should buy pex tools. Anyone have any recommendation? You can cut PEX with anything, so I wouldn't worry about a dedicated cutter. If you want a crimper, the one I bought at Home Depot was around 60 bucks. I imagine you could find them cheaper online- and yes, I'd very much recommend crimping if you're doing more than just a spot repair.
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Oct 25, 2013 02:01
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I cheaped out first and got the $25 PEX pocket crimper (works with 10" vise grips). It does the job but somewhat annoying to use. It got stolen after a basement break in so I bought a proper crimper that looks like a bolt cutter. Came with changeable heads, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1". Have done two houses with it and works great. For a cutter you can use a PVC cutter or any other plastic pipe cutter The best system though is the Uponor style expansion fittings and a tool like the Milwaukee M12 expander. Total overkill for the homeowner but worth it if you're working jobs
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Oct 25, 2013 02:26
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A perk to the Uponor style vs the crimp style is that you don't have to use the tool "in place". You can use the tool then you have a couple seconds to slide the fittings into place while the plastic contracts. With crimpers, you have to crimp in place which can get awkward in tight spaces where you need space and leverage.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:23
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You can get around that to a point by making mini-assemblies of a few connections at a time to avoid a crimp in a tough place (PEX flexibility helps), although I imagine there's some places that are no-win situations.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:54
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Some crimp tools (the lopper style tools in particular) need a lot of room to work and are fine when running pex through open framed walls, but next to impossible to use under sinks & poo poo. You really do have to think ahead and do up your connections in a particular order to avoid getting stuck in a situation where you can't get your tool in to make a crimp.
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Oct 25, 2013 12:56
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Do the different crimpers require different clamps? Should I just buy the crimpers at home depot so its the same as their pieces? Is this what I want: http://www.amazon.com/WPCATK-1-Crim...x+crimping+tool blindjoe fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 18:34
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There are the press fits (copper rings) and then there are the cinch clamps (stainless clamps). I went with the press fits for no particular reason other than it seemed common but I think the cinch clamps are easier to clamp in tight spaces (Home Depot has both). The crimper you linked is basically the one I have and they seem all rather the same. Just have to decide crimp or clamp Cinch clamp tool http://www.amazon.com/Watts-PEX-P-949-Ratcheting-Stainless/dp/B000BO4YKM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
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Oct 26, 2013 02:51
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Questions about Milwaukee tools in general. A install contractor for TWC left the drill here. He knows how to contact me and it's been a month and a half and no word from him, so he obviously doesn't want it anymore. My question is should I keep it and build a toolkit around it or sell it and go for a different brand. It's a nice drill overall, I'd just have to get the charger and poo poo, and if Milwaukee isn't a decent brand I'll buy something else. It's a Milwaukee 1/2" Hammer drill with the M18 battery set. e: I somehow missed the review, right there at the top of the page. 
Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 22:32
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powderific posted:Milwaukee has a lot of stuff I wouldn't expect to be cordless, like grease guns and vacuums and poo poo. Milwaukee cordless tube cutter 
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Oct 26, 2013 23:27
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Hello everyone, I had quite the score at an antique mall today. I bought a whole box of tools for $12.50. After looking through I knew I didn't have junk. Here are some photos, I have some questions as well if anyone can help. Whole box  Starrett Center Punch  Crescent 6" Wrench - U.S. Made - Unused  Starrett Depth Micrometer  Precision Brand Feeler Gauges  Simonds Needle Files - Swiss Made - Unused  Starrett Inside Calipers  Various Precision Screwdrivers - Swiss Made  Various Proto Wrenches - U.S. Made  Stanley Ratcheting Screwdriver  Many boxes of X-Acto blades (1 Stanley) - U.S. Made - Unused  Nicholson Rotary Bits? - Unused  Unknown tool  Unknown tool bit?  Now for the questions if anyone can answer them... 1. What do these tools all have in common? Anything at all? I just wonder how they ended up in a cheap box in an antique mall. 2. How old do you think that Crescent wrench is? 3. How old are those Stanley utility knife blades? I didn't think they made anything in the US anymore. 4. What the heck are those Nicholson bits? I can't find anything about them by searching their part numbers. 5. What those unknown tools in the last two photos?
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Oct 28, 2013 01:11
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Well that's a heck of a find for $12. I have no idea about the age of the items, but with a center punch, feeler gauges and a micrometer it looks like you've found part of a machinist's kit. I'd almost say the guy was a tool and die maker based on the needle files and the Nicholson tools, which are rotary burrs traditionally used with a die grinder. Think a heavy-duty air-powered Dremel. I don't know what the second-last tool is, but the last one appears to be some sort of boring tool. It's used with a lathe to cut more precise holes than you can get with a drill bit. Again, I don't know what is the most valuable from an antique standpoint, but the most inherently valuable tool is the micrometer assuming it's still in calibration. I personally think the unused crescent wrench is worth the whole cost though. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 01:48
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2nd to last tool is an offset screwdriver. You use it in tight spots. Last tool looks like some kind of threading tap or hole smoother, although I can't tell for sure. That's probably some machinist's toolkit, and it's a goddamned steal at 12 bucks. Good show, I'm jealous. The X-acto blades would fetch a little money from any kind of hobbyist. Proto stuff is top-notch too, so throw out your Harbor Freight ratchet and throw that in your toolbox. GD_American fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 02:10
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jesus christ
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Oct 28, 2013 02:40
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That is a hell of a deal, those center punches are pretty awesome. You just put the tip where you want a punch mark and then push down till it breaks over and automatically punches the mark for you.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:53
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