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Hey guys, I've been looking around for a car for a little while now, I'd like to purchase something in the next few months. Mostly been looking at either a new WRX wagon, or a used '04+. I know to check the used ones for proof of timing belt/pulley work if they're near to 100k, but are there any really specific 'avoid me' model years with the WRX?
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Oct 25, 2013 00:47
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rotard posted:anyone care to help me diagnose a new to me problem? blind guesses would be you overfilled the oil, didn't tighten the cap/seal the dipstick, or your turbo is leaking internally into the DP?
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Oct 25, 2013 01:24
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So our 02 WRX has an oil leak and needs new motor mounts for sure. Oil leak according to shop inspection is coming from valve cover gaskets as well as a turbo oil return line. I was ball park estimated the cost of repairing all of this at around $1.4k. Is that a realistic number for two oil leaks, an oil change, and motor mount replacement?
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Oct 25, 2013 01:29
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GrAviTy84 posted:So our 02 WRX has an oil leak and needs new motor mounts for sure. Oil leak according to shop inspection is coming from valve cover gaskets as well as a turbo oil return line. I was ball park estimated the cost of repairing all of this at around $1.4k. Is that a realistic number for two oil leaks, an oil change, and motor mount replacement? Jesus I hope not. The valve cover gaskets involve replacing quite a few parts, because while you're at it you do all the rocker cover washers and the spark gaskets (I'm only familiar with this on the N/A EJ25, so may vary somewhat). But I think for all the parts together I spent like $75. It was a DIY that only took me a few hours, and I'm not much with a wrench. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t51254-diy-valve-cover-spark-plug-gasket-install.html That turbo oil return line is a bit more suspect - I'm not familiar with anything causing a leak there. Might be the turbo seals? Motor mounts are like $150 for a pair, and again not a huge job. You generally are going to want at least an engine hoist for it though. $75 in gaskets, $150 in mounts, 3 hours of shop time maybe? So like <$500 I'd hope.
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Oct 25, 2013 01:45
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si posted:Jesus I hope not. I think they need to pull the engine to do that on the turbo. Not positive, but when I pulled my WRX engine I was surprised at how tightly packed everything is.
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Oct 25, 2013 01:55
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si posted:That turbo oil return line is a bit more suspect - I'm not familiar with anything causing a leak there. Might be the turbo seals? The turbo oil return line is a common leak on my block (EJ20K, same as an 02?).
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Oct 25, 2013 01:59
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Nur_Neerg posted:Hey guys, I've been looking around for a car for a little while now, I'd like to purchase something in the next few months. Mostly been looking at either a new WRX wagon, or a used '04+. I know to check the used ones for proof of timing belt/pulley work if they're near to 100k, but are there any really specific 'avoid me' model years with the WRX? '08 sucked because the power was upgraded in '09, '09-'10 kinda suck because they went with the wide body style in '11. If you like the GD body style, I would go with '06-'07 for the 2.5L over the 2.0L in the '02-'05. As far as reliability issues, I don't think there's too much to worry about past 2004.
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Oct 25, 2013 02:43
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rotard posted:anyone care to help me diagnose a new to me problem? How are your PS fluid levels?
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Oct 25, 2013 03:09
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GrAviTy84 posted:So our 02 WRX has an oil leak and needs new motor mounts for sure. Oil leak according to shop inspection is coming from valve cover gaskets as well as a turbo oil return line. I was ball park estimated the cost of repairing all of this at around $1.4k. Is that a realistic number for two oil leaks, an oil change, and motor mount replacement? That's a pretty insane amount of money to charge to remove a few bolts and replace a gasket on the valve cover. Oil line can be done without pulling anything out, you just might as well replace it with a length of silicone tubing so that you don't get rubber rot down the road with that new one. Replacement of my oil return line on my 03 was $150. Hell, replacing my cam seal was only $300.
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Oct 25, 2013 07:01
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Nur_Neerg posted:Hey guys, I've been looking around for a car for a little while now, I'd like to purchase something in the next few months. Mostly been looking at either a new WRX wagon, or a used '04+. I know to check the used ones for proof of timing belt/pulley work if they're near to 100k, but are there any really specific 'avoid me' model years with the WRX? MY06 are the best, MY08 are blech (That one is probably the avoid me, altho not because it's a lemon, it's slowest and softest. Then again that makes them the cheapest). MY11 and on are pretty good. 04/05 are popular and are decent.
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Oct 25, 2013 09:51
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Neptr posted:'09-'10 kinda suck because they went with the wide body style in '11. 
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Oct 25, 2013 12:24
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Meat Mitts posted:The only thing holding him back is the lack of corn fuel in the area and his stock cluth and 5 speed I was about to cry OUCH! but with that much power the stock clutch should act as a good driveline fuse.
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Oct 25, 2013 12:29
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This'll be my first winter driving my '13 WRX. I've got snow tires. Should traction control be on or off if I'm stuck somewhere? Are these some general AWD driving guidelines anywhere?
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Oct 25, 2013 15:50
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You are probably unlikely to get stuck. Leave it on if you feel like it, turn it off if you want to have fun in the snow.
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Oct 25, 2013 15:55
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Amandyke posted:That's a pretty insane amount of money to charge to remove a few bolts and replace a gasket on the valve cover. Oil line can be done without pulling anything out, you just might as well replace it with a length of silicone tubing so that you don't get rubber rot down the road with that new one. How in the world did you replace the oil return line without taking out the downpipe? Everything I've seen suggests there's not enough clearance otherwise.
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Oct 25, 2013 16:00
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The owner's manual says to turn off traction control if you are stuck.
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Oct 25, 2013 16:42
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rotard posted:anyone care to help me diagnose a new to me problem? When my CV boot went on my legacy, I got a hot oil smell in the cabin. It was the passenger front, and it sprayed grease on some hot bits...
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Oct 25, 2013 18:11
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Cat Terrist posted:MY06 are the best, MY08 are blech (That one is probably the avoid me, altho not because it's a lemon, it's slowest and softest. Then again that makes them the cheapest). MY11 and on are pretty good. 04/05 are popular and are decent. BoyBlunder posted:Are these some general AWD driving guidelines anywhere? It feels awesome to just power past people travelling at walking pace in new SUVs with stupid low-profile summer tyres.
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Oct 25, 2013 22:43
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InitialDave posted:Do you happen to know if UK spec cars fit in with this logic? Specifically WRXs. The general rule I'm picking up on for that generation is "2006 if you can, 2004 or 2005 if you can't", and if you're saying the same thing, I'd regard it as being fairly solid. Actually I think it applies even more - the UK got special editions that ROCK! the MY06 PPP is the one to snap up if you can find it.
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Oct 25, 2013 23:00
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Thanks, will keep an eye out. It's just something I'm toying with at present. While the age of the car wouldn't bother me per se, I'm working on the principle that a newer one is less likely to have been owned by a dickhead. Also open to estates/wagons for the same reason. Speaking of which, some of the classified make me cringe. I mean really, who puts their car up for sale still plastered with the typical "it's a rally car, honest" fluoro yellow sticker packs? In terms of the judgements I am given pause to make about the previous owner and their treatment of the vehicle, I think we can safely say that "not good" covers it. Edit: Also, due to UK legislative silliness, a WRX registered on the 24th of March 2006 would cost almost twice as much in annual tax as one registered on the 22nd. So there's that. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 23:44
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Speaking of leaks, my oil cooler hoses (coming from the water pump) leak when it's below 40. They drip drip drip, warm up and seal. I'm extremely sketched about doing things on my own car, is this something impossible to gently caress up?
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Oct 26, 2013 12:25
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Anyone know why a highbeam indicator light on the cluster would stop working? 03 Legacy. Hit some righteous bumps and maybe blew a wheel bearing too.
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Oct 26, 2013 13:52
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The bulbs that illuminate those indicators are smaller bulbs on a twist-in base, could have just dislodged itself. It's simple to get to, shouldn't take more that 5-10 mins to check so you can at least rule that out.
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Oct 26, 2013 15:01
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InitialDave posted:Thanks, will keep an eye out. It's just something I'm toying with at present. While the age of the car wouldn't bother me per se, I'm working on the principle that a newer one is less likely to have been owned by a dickhead. Also open to estates/wagons for the same reason. The hard and fast rules of second hand WRX buying is avoid anything that even smells like it was modded. The best way to tell is look at the turbo heat shield - if it has been removed in it's life then the owner returned the car to stock (exhaust is always the first thing anyone does). Service history must also be good without big dollar replacements. Another good idea is look for a car that the owner is selling before the timing belt change - That's the really expensive service so owners will try to avoid it and discount their cars (A bit of evidence the owner is aware of service interals too!). TBH it's not that hard to do yourself and save a pile of cash.
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Oct 27, 2013 03:34
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So, I'm gonna need one new 17" Rota Torque in silver.  Wheeldude apparently only sells sets. Once I pull it and figure out the offset and width, where the gently caress am I supposed to buy just one of these fuckers? Edit: Scratch that, found a place. Now how do I tell if these wheels are actually silver and not the plain grey or hyper silver or whatever? Is there a color code on these things somewhere? Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 06:42
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I tried searching a bit but didn't find any real answers so I'll ask here. What if anything is shared between the leagacy platform and the impreza? Mor specifically the suspension and drivetrain the cars in question are my 2005 sti and outback xt. What I would like to do is swap most of the STi to the obxt since the STi is being built for track only and most current suspension parts are being replaced. I would love to have the obxt with 5x114.3 hubs and STi brembos. So I can use one of the 4 sets of wheels I have already.
Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 07:17
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I am looking to get a set of snow tires/wheels for my 2011 Impreza, are there any preferred tires that people recommend?
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Oct 27, 2013 07:26
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I'm a huge fan of the general altimax arctics. I've had them on my lowered 05 STi last winter and I could just about plow through anything. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_it5Tyajs4
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Oct 27, 2013 07:46
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Cat Terrist posted:The hard and fast rules of second hand WRX buying is avoid anything that even smells like it was modded. The best way to tell is look at the turbo heat shield - if it has been removed in it's life then the owner returned the car to stock (exhaust is always the first thing anyone does). Service history must also be good without big dollar replacements. It could also mean that the clutch was changed, so if they have a record for that I wouldn't just assume the car was modded.
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Oct 27, 2013 09:41
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Neptr posted:It could also mean that the clutch was changed, so if they have a record for that I wouldn't just assume the car was modded. It's a good bet however and I would assume mods were there, unless proven otherwise esp. where WRX's are concerned. Clutch changes before you would expect normal wear and tear times are also a very good sign of abuse.
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Oct 27, 2013 10:21
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Cat Terrist posted:The hard and fast rules of second hand WRX buying is avoid anything that even smells like it was modded. The best way to tell is look at the turbo heat shield - if it has been removed in it's life then the owner returned the car to stock (exhaust is always the first thing anyone does). Service history must also be good without big dollar replacements. Timing belt shouldn't be too much of an issue for me to do, I'd say. Any special tools needed for locking the cams or setting the tension? How lovely is front-end access to do it, is it a bumper off and rad out job? Neptr posted:It could also mean that the clutch was changed, so if they have a record for that I wouldn't just assume the car was modded. Also, apparently it is 10% cheaper for me to insure an STI compared to a WRX. 
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Oct 27, 2013 14:11
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InitialDave posted:Unless there's something particular to Subaru clutches, I wouldn't expect one to be necessary on a mid-2000s car unless it had been given some abuse? I know a vigorous tarmac launch is going to be hard on them, but unless you're drag racing, there's not much call for that. Like any manual AWD car I'd be very very cautious about buying one that has been through a clutch too early as it could mean the transmission has been harshly abused by launches.
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Oct 27, 2013 14:49
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Holdbrooks posted:I tried searching a bit but didn't find any real answers so I'll ask here. What if anything is shared between the legacy platform and the impreza? More specifically the suspension and drivetrain the cars in question are my 2005 sti and outback xt. What I would like to do is swap most of the STi to the obxt since the STi is being built for track only and most current suspension parts are being replaced. I would love to have the obxt with 5x114.3 hubs and STi brembos. So I can use one of the 4 sets of wheels I have already. All of that poo poo is different. The rear suspension is completely different and the fronts are only somewhat different. You're stuck with two completely different platforms. Motor and trans all bolt in though.
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Oct 27, 2013 14:50
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InitialDave posted:
That's not unusual at all actually. I only pay $230 every six months for my STi and I'm still in my twenties. It would be more for a WRX. G-Mach fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 14:51
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G-Mach posted:That's not usual at all actually. I only pay $230 every six months for my STi and I'm still in my twenties. It would be more for a WRX. My imported 98 STi runs me $220 a month to insure, after a 40% discount. They're easier about importing cars in Canada but they sure make it cost you.
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Oct 27, 2013 14:54
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I'd be looking at about £570 ($920) a year fully comp. High-ish, but not crazy. 31yo single male with a professional job living in an ok-but-not-wonderful area (in theft risk terms), clean licence and no claims. Modified or non-UK-spec stuff would probably cause a significant hike in that. I also do a low annual mileage, which probably helps. To put it in perspective, a base-model Clio with about 60bhp and no value hits me for a shade under £300 with only a year's no-claims on it. Far cry from my £1200 for third party on a 50bhp Fiat Panda days, that's for sure.
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Oct 27, 2013 15:30
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InitialDave posted:Also, apparently it is 10% cheaper for me to insure an STI compared to a WRX. More people get WRXs to do dumb stuff with them. Around my city I see all kinds of hosed in half WRXs with exhausts, stickers, etc. driving poorly but STis are generally less common, less heavily modified, and driven more sanely.
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Oct 27, 2013 16:27
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Someone who wasn't me threw up in my wife's 2014 Outback front passenger seat. Is it possible to remove the seat cover(s) for washing? Right now I'm draining my 409 foam cleaner spray stuff to fight it.
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Oct 27, 2013 16:59
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Pulled the wheel. Thanks for not marking the rim width, Rota.  Depending on where you assume the rim to be on the inside, measuring yields anywhere from 7.5" to 8.5". poo poo.
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Oct 27, 2013 18:31
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InitialDave posted:
Eh, a mid 2000's car is likely to be pushing over 100k miles at this point so I could see a clutch as something that's necessary. This is especially true if you live in a hilly area or an area with a lot of traffic.
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Oct 27, 2013 18:40
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