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Yeah, you can freeze film no problem. Exception: do not freeze Polaroid film, you will burst the chemical packets. Let any other film thaw for a few hours before you shoot it. Freezing is better than refrigerating, the colder you get it the slower the degredation process of the film. However it's not a lot better, getting film from hot/room temperature down to refrigerator temperature is a much much bigger difference than getting it from refrigerator to freezer temperature. Most people will be OK with a little 3-5 cubic foot standing deep freezer. That's really a fuckload of space for film, probably a thousand dollars or more worth. Since it's a separate unit you don't lose anywhere near the amount of cold as a refrigerator where you're going in and out all the time. It's also upright so the cold can't fall out. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Haier-5.0-cu.-ft.-Deep-Freezer-Chest-White/5751096 If you freeze it there's really very little degradation. B+W films don't exhibit color shift, obviously, which means you can pretty much get away with murder. Slow films also age better than faster ones generally. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Oct 24, 2013 |
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Oct 24, 2013 12:03
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cross post from landscapes. welp, this has pretty much set me solid. not paying to get any more rolls done until I get my own chemicals. this cost way too much to get done. some other shots but these were most of the keepers. also really disliking converging verticals etc which makes me all the more keen to get my LF up and running, still pleased with some of the results and definitely want to use my 10 stop a whole lot more. mostly portra 160, ektar 100, foma 100 and t-max                 if anyone wants to follow me on tumblr: http://alexgard.com Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Oct 24, 2013 |
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Oct 24, 2013 13:03
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How to know frozen film is ready to shoot: At the moment you take it out, take an ice cube out of your fridge as well. Put the ice cube in a plate or a cup or something. When the ice has thawed completely, your film is good to go!
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Oct 24, 2013 17:26
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Sludge Tank posted:cross post from landscapes. drat dude if you think your 120 film costs are expensive maybe large format isn't the best idea
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Oct 24, 2013 17:33
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oh no i just meant paying a shop to develop the film
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Oct 24, 2013 20:45
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Sludge Tank posted:cross post from landscapes. EDIT: I just discovered that windmill shot was in Tasmania. One year ago today I landed in Hobart for a 4-month working visit. I'm feeling a little nostalgic - where in Tassie was that? ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 05:48
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yeah revolucion (good mate of mine) told me you guys met up? These guys didn't do as good a job on the film as the other mob I used. The windmill was up in Wesley Vale, NW coast. It's a power plant for a big cut-flower nursery. I've moved back down to Tassie and hope to do a some tramping. What were you doing in Tassie? Anything for the CSIRO/AAD by any chance? I see you spend a lot of time in the ice. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 07:07
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Sludge Tank posted:pics Tight as gently caress. I'm looking forward to your LF shots.
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Oct 25, 2013 15:11
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Red filters are cool. What's the verdict on those deep red filters?
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Oct 25, 2013 21:18
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They're ok
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Oct 25, 2013 21:22
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I think they can be used for near-infrared photography too?
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Oct 25, 2013 22:32
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Decided to do a portrait photo series for my class final as I never ever do them.  backyard by Jordan_t_Brown, on Flickr
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Oct 26, 2013 07:02
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 Marunouchi, Tokyo, 2013 by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Oct 27, 2013 07:15
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Paul MaudDib posted:I think they can be used for near-infrared photography too? Near Infra-Red does that mean it's still normal film but has a near-infrared effect? I was just hoping to black out the sky as much as possible and get in some more contrast but red the deep red filter can lose a lot of (read: all) detail in shadow areas or something... And does a circular polariser have potentiated effects behind a red filter in cloud popping?
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Oct 27, 2013 15:10
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Sludge Tank posted:Near Infra-Red does that mean it's still normal film but has a near-infrared effect? I was just hoping to black out the sky as much as possible and get in some more contrast but red the deep red filter can lose a lot of (read: all) detail in shadow areas or something... I'm guessing you're aiming to get some shots that look a little like this guys work?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21290636@N06 He shoots mainly with a hasselblad I think. You may get something near-infrared like, but it's going to heavily depend on the spectral sensitivity of the film, some are going to have a sensitivity tail that'll push a little further past 650nm that will give you the IR sensitivity you want without being a full-blown IR film. And you'll be okay using a filter stack or deep-red and polarizer, and it doesn't matter what order you put them on either, you should see the effect of the polarizer (if it's rated to work in the near IR/deep red).
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Oct 27, 2013 20:47
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I see. Yeah that kind of stuff is what I'm hoping to get to. Really deep blacks in the sky with good cloud detail (I assume a bit of post and tidying up would be done with those?) What sort of films would be better suited to that? Is T-Max ok or am I going to have to look into more specialised kind of stuff?
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Oct 28, 2013 01:12
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 I love this camera and the images it produces. Medium format owns.
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Oct 28, 2013 06:03
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I just impulse bought one of these: With speedgrip, 75mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5 and AE II viewfinder. Now just waiting for my film order to arrive...
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Oct 28, 2013 06:08
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Sludge Tank posted:I see. Yeah that kind of stuff is what I'm hoping to get to. Really deep blacks in the sky with good cloud detail (I assume a bit of post and tidying up would be done with those?) I think T-Max would be your best bet for "normal" film stocks, as it has the biggest spectral range of the Kodak offerings. But to get the effect you're after I reckon you should get a few rolls of Ilford SFX to try out, as its designed to be sensitive deeper into the red than all other panchromatic films.
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Oct 28, 2013 13:06
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Sludge Tank posted:yeah revolucion (good mate of mine) told me you guys met up? We're drifting off-topic for this thread, but yeah revolucion and I had some good times while I was in Hobart. We met up originally so he could get free shipping for the print exchange (incidentally, today is the last day to sign up for the current incarnation), later we went into the Hobart Rivulet - if you're friends with him and he hasn't shown you the fish in the concrete creek yet, bug him until he does. I was in Tassie for CSIRO, with a side of AAD. I'll send you a PM to avoid extending this derail. *** On-topic - I picked up some developer and fix because I seem to have lost what I had in my last move. Anyway, it was pretty depressing, my local professional photo shop had moved their chemicals into the back room (the rack where they used to sit is now full of Holga hipster-fest offerings) and the guy I talked to had no idea because he's never actually done anything with film. I managed to refer to this place accidentally - "Nah, I don't have a dorkroom at home, I mean darkroom, heh... uh, yeah, I just use a dark bag and I spend too much time on the internet". The selection of chemicals was pretty limited, I ended up with a bottle of Kodak T-Max developer which I'd never heard of but the Massive Dev Chart lists it; seems like most of my times will be on the longer side, I've got some Across in 120 format to do, and because I'll stretch that developer as much as I can I'm looking at 10 minute times. Not too bad, but there are a few others, glancing at the chart, that are up around 14-15 minutes. I can't really complain, some of my film has been sitting in my freezer, exposed, for more than a year.
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Oct 28, 2013 17:55
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After shooting 35mm for the last 5 years or so, I'm really considering making the leap to MF. The tipping point was probably seeing my friend's Portra 400 scans at ridiculously large resolutions with virtually no grain. So, with that in mind, could anyone recommend what might be a good camera for me? I'd mainly like to do landscape stuff but I also want to be able to do portraits with narrow DOF. I am willing to spend around $300. I know that's not a lot but I often see MF cameras going for that on eBay so maybe you guys have some idea. I'm not sure about a miniature bellows thing or those Lubitel types, as I'd prefer something similar to an SLR in that I could switch lenses according to my needs. Thanks Dorkroomers!
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Oct 28, 2013 22:04
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Quantum of Phallus posted:After shooting 35mm for the last 5 years or so, I'm really considering making the leap to MF. The tipping point was probably seeing my friend's Portra 400 scans at ridiculously large resolutions with virtually no grain. You should be able to pick up a Mamiya RB67 in that price range, though you'd have to stretch your budget to get more than one lens. Both the 90mm and 127mm are good normal-ish lenses. Either should work as a starter lens, but if you can't stretch the budget a little to also pick up a 65mm for landscapes, get the 90mm instead of the 127mm. Finally, the 180mm would be my choice for a portrait lens.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:20
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I got that complete Bronica ETRS setup for around $400 on KEH. You could put together the basic camera with one lens for $300 easily.
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Oct 29, 2013 00:13
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deaders posted:I got that complete Bronica ETRS setup for around $400 on KEH. You could put together the basic camera with one lens for $300 easily. How about not an ETRS? Friends don't let friends shoot 645.
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Oct 29, 2013 00:20
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Don't harsh my buzz bro I can't wait to use this thing.
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Oct 29, 2013 00:21
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645? D'aww, it's so cute!  *fondles GS645 beneath table*
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Oct 29, 2013 01:25
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deaders posted:Don't harsh my buzz bro I can't wait to use this thing. Don't use it, upgrade to a Bronica SQ!
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Oct 29, 2013 01:25
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alkanphel posted:Don't use it, upgrade to a Bronica SQ! Your first roll of slides with a larger format is always free 
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Oct 29, 2013 01:28
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I'm also looking at MF, specifically a RB67 Pro SD. $90 shipping effectively kills any cost savings I'd make by buying from KEH, and a film back costs the same as a body, so that leaves ebay. Are there any specific things I should look out for in the seller photos? I'm new to MF, so I don't have much of an idea of what a defective camera would look like (apart from the bellows). Or is it more about finding a decent seller than scrutinising photos?
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Oct 29, 2013 01:50
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plannerpirate posted:I'm also looking at MF, specifically a RB67 Pro SD. $90 shipping effectively kills any cost savings I'd make by buying from KEH, and a film back costs the same as a body, so that leaves ebay. There are some things that photos might not show, such as light leaks in the film magazine, or whether the camera body even works.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:19
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shot with a mamiya 7 for the first time. what a lovely system.  Baker St, London by JaundiceDave, on Flickr
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Oct 29, 2013 02:27
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Genderfluid posted:shot with a mamiya 7 for the first time. what a lovely system. This thing, it owns. Bones. Also a bit jealous here, I wish I could afford a Mamiya7 these days. P67 is great but seriously heavy.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:32
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I bought 2 film backs, which came fine, but the light trap on one of the backs packed it in after about 3 rolls. If the camera you buy has kits for fixing light leaks, get those too (the hassy kits were about $3 each)
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Oct 29, 2013 02:42
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Spedman posted:I think T-Max would be your best bet for "normal" film stocks, as it has the biggest spectral range of the Kodak offerings. But to get the effect you're after I reckon you should get a few rolls of Ilford SFX to try out, as its designed to be sensitive deeper into the red than all other panchromatic films. Cool I found some on ebay. So you think try this ILFORD SFX film with red/deep red filters? I do love that deep, huge contrasty b&w stuff.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:45
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The Mamiya 7 system is actually declining in price a bit. Normally it runs around $1200, currently $1100. The 6 usually tracks in price, which it is. The 7 is a bit lighter than the P67, but it's still huge. Buy a big hippie strap and you won't notice much of a difference.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:47
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Sludge Tank posted:Cool I found some on ebay. So you think try this ILFORD SFX film with red/deep red filters? I do love that deep, huge contrasty b&w stuff. Ilford SFX is not very sensitive to IR, at all. If you want to get that IR look you need at least a 720nm or better 820nm wavelength IR filter. Otherwise it won't look different from a typical black and white exposure with a dark red filter. There's also Efke 820, which is very IR sensitive, but also is best shot with IR filters. It also has a bit of that Kodak HIE halo thing going on. Also both films really should be (un)loaded in the near dark. If you can clearly see what you're doing it's too bright.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:53
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When my HiTech 10 stop ND filter decided to become a swimmer I replaced it with the Pro-Stop IRND Joel Tjintjelaar Signature Edition Long Exposure Kit (copy paste) http://www.2filter.com/FormattHitech/Formatt-Hitech-ProStop-IRND-Long-Exposure-Kits.html Was this the right idea?
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Oct 29, 2013 03:46
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Paul MaudDib posted:The Mamiya 7 system is actually declining in price a bit. Normally it runs around $1200, currently $1100. The 6 usually tracks in price, which it is. Yeah, I saw one in person for the first time at a shop and I was surprised at how bulky it was. I think I'll stick with MF SLR's. They also had a Pentax 6x7 600mm f/4 for like $800, was tempted to buy it and see if I could flip it for a profit on eBay. Shipping would really eat into my margin though.
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Oct 29, 2013 03:58
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deaders posted:Don't harsh my buzz bro I can't wait to use this thing. alkanphel posted:Don't use it, upgrade to a Bronica SQ! Listen to this guy and buy my sq-ai. The local market ain't in the mood for Bronicas it seems 
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Oct 29, 2013 04:01
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Haha the Bronica SQ was my first choice but I changed my mind when I realized it was quite a bit more expensive. This is my first foray into MF so am trying not to sink too much money into it until I know it is something I will stick with. My developing tank and changing bag just arrived, can't wait to start developing my own B&W for the first time since highschool (too long ago now).
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Oct 29, 2013 06:14
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