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BlackMK4 posted:
Could be worse, I had to replace both front door actuators on my 2006 Jetta. They were $120 each.
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Oct 27, 2013 03:57
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BlackMK4 posted:
I remember those days, my door module failed on a huge road trip 800 miles from home. At least the CCM is smart enough to shut off the interior lights after 15-20 minutes or so.
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Oct 27, 2013 04:04
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Fart Pipe posted:I remember those days, my door module failed on a huge road trip 800 miles from home. At least the CCM is smart enough to shut off the interior lights after 15-20 minutes or so. My drivers side module has the usual bad switch, I just disabled the drat interior lights. Kashwashwa posted:Could be worse, I had to replace both front door actuators on my 2006 Jetta. They were $120 each. These are $120 new, I am just a cheap-rear end.
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Oct 27, 2013 04:24
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So one of my rear brake lights dies. I pop out the manual to get an idea of what tools I need to grab and see that I'm meant to take it into a registered dealer for advice, because apparently cars are all complicated nowerdays, and bulbs run on electricity that can be dangerous. Some guy with a weird beard on youtube does the whole job in about a minute, with a single hand, while fussing his cat, shakeycamming it and talking about beer. Apparently Audi charge £27 for that (the Bosch replacement bulbs cost me £3 for 2). gently caress you Audi. **EDIT** all fitted, easy as anything, gonna throw in a gently caress halfords for recommending the wrong bulb and then insisting I was wrong until I showed them the blown one. DesperateDan fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Oct 27, 2013 |
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Oct 27, 2013 09:19
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DesperateDan posted:So one of my rear brake lights dies. I pop out the manual to get an idea of what tools I need to grab and see that I'm meant to take it into a registered dealer for advice, because apparently cars are all complicated nowerdays, and bulbs run on electricity that can be dangerous. So be glad that it wasn't a headlight that went.
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Oct 27, 2013 13:54
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real_scud posted:I'm not sure how the B6 is but in a B7 if you have a blown headlight it requires basically taking off the entire front bumper to get enough space to remove the old bulb from the housing and put in a new one. It's 4 bolts and an electrical connector on the B6, pops right out the front 
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Oct 27, 2013 17:30
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DesperateDan posted:It's 4 bolts and an electrical connector on the B6, pops right out the front Which if you have normal sized hands is a giant loving pain in the rear end and I was never able to do it. So if I didn't end up needing other work done on the car I was going to have to remove the damned bumper just to replace one stinking bulb.
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Oct 27, 2013 18:52
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dissss posted:What would the point be? More weight and more pollution. Better gas mileage...
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Oct 27, 2013 22:25
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real_scud posted:Yeah nowhere near that easy. If you don't want to remove the entire bumper there's 4 bolts to get it loose to slide it forward, that gives you about an additional .5in clearance on the back and you have to try to finagle the bulb out. Looked it up, you weren't kidding- the "cheats" way to do it looks to be to remove the power steering and washer reservoirs on one side and most of the air filter on the other. I'm really pretty shocked that something that seems so simple, and such a common fault, ends up as a multiple hour job, what the gently caress were the designers thinking?
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Oct 28, 2013 00:38
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Yeah, for my B7, I removed the air filter and its housing to get to the passenger side for a bulb replacement. Once I did that and got an idea of what to do, I just unbolted the washer/fluid reservoirs on the driver side and contorted my hand around in there to get that bulb. Still think it was a better decision that dropping the bumper.
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Oct 28, 2013 01:52
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BlackMK4 posted:Better gas mileage... I think a diesel would be better suited for something like the Volt where it could run for a sustained period at a maximally efficient RPM and would not need to start-stop as often. But between gas direct injection, the psuedo-atkinson cycle engine valving, and the reduced weight/emissions requirements of gasoline engines... I highly doubt we will be seeing a diesel hybrid car anytime soon. I've seen a number of busses and delivery trucks marked as hybrids though, an application I'm sure they excel at.
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Oct 28, 2013 02:08
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Well, there is this... and it's supposed to come to America. http://www.topgear.com/uk/mercedes-benz/e-class/road-test/e300-bluetec-hybrid-driven
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Oct 28, 2013 02:10
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The problem with diesel-hybrid is cost. Hybrid systems are expensive to add, while diesel powered cars get taxxed extra for bullshit going back to the 70s. So to try to bring in something sub 30k would be a huge challenge.
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Oct 28, 2013 14:53
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I have a 2004 New Beetle and I can't get the headlights out. There's a plastic lever you're supposed to push down to disengage the lock so you can slide out the lights on a track but it broke off. Shop wants to replace both headlight buckets, they won't just pop them out to change the lights. What's the easy way to get the buckets out that doesn't involve prying the poo poo out of them and possibly messing up the front end of my car? Also how the hell do you search for interior trim? I have a busted armrest on the driver's side I'm tryig to replace and it's impossible to find out what part that even is.
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Oct 28, 2013 17:45
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Verdugo posted:Also how the hell do you search for interior trim? I have a busted armrest on the driver's side I'm tryig to replace and it's impossible to find out what part that even is. Should have a part number on it somewhere. Audi/VW puts part numbers on literally everything.
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Oct 28, 2013 20:08
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veedubfreak posted:They are much cheaper than the last Jetta. If she insists on going with one, look at the GLI, it has the proper rear suspension and the upgraded interior. Also has the 2.0t. Or the TDI. The base 2.5s are going to feel super cheap, as they are, considering they are 17k cars. IIRC for 2014, all Jettas are going to have independent rear suspension.
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Oct 28, 2013 21:31
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Worn brake pad warning has lit up on my A4, do these things come on prematurely or am I about to get the annoying brake squeal?
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Oct 29, 2013 17:08
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DesperateDan posted:Worn brake pad warning has lit up on my A4, do these things come on prematurely or am I about to get the annoying brake squeal? You won't get any brake squeal until it's metal on metal (you know...too late) as there are no indicators on your pads. The light/sensor IS your indicator. You have nearly no pad material left (4mm or so) and need to change your pads now.
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Oct 29, 2013 17:31
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 This is what the pads looked like when the light on my GTI came on. Old on left new on right.
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Oct 29, 2013 21:21
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 Have contacted a few local places I know for quotes on getting them swapped out, is 1-2 hours labour reasonable if all 4 pads are being done?
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Oct 30, 2013 10:21
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DesperateDan posted:
lol. Brake jobs are gravy. That's way too long for a pad slap. And you probably won't find any better.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:14
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My younger brother and his wife are expecting a child so are shopping for a new(er) and much safer car than their old Integra Type R Current front runner is a - 2006 VW Jetta with the 2l turbo and six speed DSG - 111,000km - Second hand Japanese import (which means no reliable service history) Now I tend to think this is a bad idea in general as its pushing what they can afford and I don't exactly trust that gearbox but I must admit it is an extremely nice car to drive, has a fantastic interior and is one hell of a lot cheaper than a similar age Golf (even a 1.4) Question is is there anything in particular to look for with this model?
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Oct 30, 2013 19:54
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I personally would not buy a car without any service history. But I'm also the type of guy who has had a very bad experience with a used car and decided to buy new.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:03
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DesperateDan posted:
Just cut the indicator wire off the pad, short it, and plug it back in, i'm sure you'll be good for another 1000 miles or so. 
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Oct 30, 2013 20:17
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My 05 GTI MkV is overdue for it's 120k service, but for :reasons: I can't get it in to have it serviced for another 2 months or so. I do about 100km on a workday, how concerned should I be about the timing belt going before I can get it serviced, and is there any easy way to check it's status?
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Oct 31, 2013 10:53
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Motronic posted:lol. Brake jobs are gravy. That's way too long for a pad slap. And you probably won't find any better. Best I can find so far is an hour's labour and I can provide pads myself, with any luck next time something like this crops up I will have the space and kit to do it myself- looking up guides for it, it's hardly rocket science 
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Oct 31, 2013 12:47
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DesperateDan posted:Best I can find so far is an hour's labour and I can provide pads myself, with any luck next time something like this crops up I will have the space and kit to do it myself- looking up guides for it, it's hardly rocket science Yep, exactly. As soon as you have the space/time/tools you should definitely be doing things like this on your own. The reason I say you aren't likely to find much better is simply because this is one of those jobs that general shops make their cash on. It's a common job that's a known quantity with little chance of things taking longer than expected and therefore guarded as a high profit service. I'm not saying all shops are like that. But most are.
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Oct 31, 2013 15:10
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BurgerQuest posted:My 05 GTI MkV is overdue for it's 120k service, but for :reasons: I can't get it in to have it serviced for another 2 months or so. I do about 100km on a workday, how concerned should I be about the timing belt going before I can get it serviced, and is there any easy way to check it's status? Depends, is that miles or km? If it's 120km you should be fine. It's recommended to be done at 120k miles here. Also, I assume this will be your third belt? If you are on your original belt, you are on borrowed time already.
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Oct 31, 2013 15:11
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Yep, kilometers, and yes it was replaced at 60,000 once already.
BurgerQuest fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Nov 1, 2013 |
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Nov 1, 2013 02:01
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My 03 A4 needs two new cats so I figured it was time for a new car. Found a CPO 2011 Q7 TDI with just under 50k miles on it for $43k to replace it with. Is there anything I should look out for in the Q7 and TDI specifically? I used to have a Ford F 250 Powerstroke so I am familiar with small diesel engines as well as much larger ones. Do I want to do the maintenance myself once the warranty is up or just let Audi deal with it?
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Nov 1, 2013 18:21
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lightpole posted:My 03 A4 needs two new cats so I figured it was time for a new car. I found the Touareg to be a nicer place to be compared to the Q7. Q7's just a little bit bigger, though.
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Nov 1, 2013 23:34
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Thumposaurus posted:
It wasn't quite this thin, but damned close- glad I asked rather than waiting for a non-existent traditional indicator
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Nov 2, 2013 13:49
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Rotated the tires on the Passat wagon tonight, needed a loving 3 foot breaker bar to get the lugs to move, whoever put them on torqued them down about three times what they needed to be.  Doing some all-around inspection, turns out that my front cv boots coming out of the transmission are torn and flinging grease all over, so that's something i'll need to take care of sooner rather than later. I had question about the rear lower control arms though - it appears that they're attached at a slightly cockeyed angle where they attach to the chassis, is this normal? It's the same whether loaded or unloaded, so I figure that's normal but couldn't hurt to check. 
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Nov 4, 2013 02:24
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I went with the 2011 Q7 TDI and Im pretty happy with it. I'm going to miss my manual A4 but the Q7 has more balls and just wants to go. Do I want to chip it out or do anything to it at all?
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Nov 5, 2013 01:30
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I just bought a 2000 bone-stock automatic Golf. It's been sitting in my Dad's driveway for a year, except for about once a month he took it around the block to get the oil moving. Otherwise, the battery was disconnected and put on the charger a few times, but that's it. Now it's stalling. Here's a timeline: Bought it, drove it on the old tank of gas until empty. Filled up with Chevron gas, drove it some more, no problem. Tried starting it up after being parked for an hour, didn't start. Waited 20 minutes, tried again, started up. A few days later, I was driving along at about 70kph, it stalled out. Engine dies, I pull over, get towed home. I then change the Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Oil and oil filter, and drove it around. Seemed to work fine. Stalled today. So what am I looking at here? Fuel pump? Spark plugs? Some sort of blockage?
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Nov 6, 2013 23:37
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Probably poo poo old gas. Get some fresh poo poo in there. Edit: Nevermind, didn't understand the timeline. Pull a plug and see if you're getting spark and fuel. Ground the tip of the sparkplug to the block while someone cranks it. You should see a fat blue spark jump across the electrodes, and you should also smell gasoline pumping out the spark plug hole.
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Nov 6, 2013 23:43
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trouser chili posted:Probably poo poo old gas. Get some fresh poo poo in there. That doesn't seem too safe. Gasoline vapours + spark = boom, no? Anyway I'm starting to think it's electrical, possibly temperature related. The car heats up to smack dab middle on the thermostat, but the fans never come on. I think it's overheating and shutting down, and the reason why it starts back up after 20 minutes or half an hour is because it cools down enough. My buddy warned me 4th gens have a lot of electrical problems, but jeez.
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Nov 7, 2013 03:07
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Overheating won't cause the car to shut down like that. It'll just slowly peg the temp gauge. When my waterpump poo poo the bed it just suddenly got hot and yelled at me to STOP NOW. I would suspect coil packs. The mk4 hated it's coil packs.
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Nov 7, 2013 15:49
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stratdax posted:That doesn't seem too safe. Gasoline vapours + spark = boom, no? Do you get a MIL / EPC light when you crank it to try to start after it dies?
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Nov 7, 2013 16:05
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Got around to replacing the bushings for the stabalizer bar on my 2.0 mkiv. That pic isn't exactly a fair comparison, since the new one got squished as well when I clamped it on. Anyway, it was like night and day driving it afterwards.. no more clunking in my front end when I hit every crack in the road. Of course, now the clunking I get from my rear wheels is all the more obvious. fyo fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 17:19
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