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Panda Bear posted:Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again. I guess because they used to be the only game in town. I was ordering from them in the mid 90's but can find the same stuff on Amazon for cheaper now.
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Nov 2, 2013 19:56
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The site's fitment/suitability thing is pretty useful to me, but generally their prices aren't amazing so I've never actually ordered anything from them before.
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Nov 3, 2013 05:11
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Panda Bear posted:Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again. Sucks that you're having issues, but Im sure most of us enjoy the free shipping, free installation supplies that they just throw at you and all the technical support they'll give you.
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Nov 4, 2013 01:22
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Panda Bear posted:Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again. I hope your case is just an anomaly and not an indicator that they're losing quality. I pimp crutchfield for the same reason I pimp newegg or amazon, it's because I personally have never had a bad experience with them, which to me makes it worth the extra money they charge. I used to price shop and used to get hosed all the time by weak vendors. Also they have a huge amount of resources that help newbies learn how to DIY and understand what they're buying. Their installation instructions are great and their explanations of technical things are nicely readable for a layperson. Sorry you're having a bad experience, you should tell them about it and see what they offer you. If they jerk you around, definitely report back so we can start watching out. I'd hate to see their service decline.
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Nov 4, 2013 06:36
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Cage posted:But your first time was pretty good though, right? I worded my post kind of strangely but this has happened both times I ordered from them. If it was once I wouldn't even be tripping about it but I've never had an online store mess my order up twice.
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Nov 4, 2013 12:54
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I have a BMW with a really crappy single DIN Sony xplode CD player. It seriously blows. A coworker told me that Sony CD players mostly use the same wiring plugs, like plug-n-play easy. Is that true? Can I just get a new deck and plug her in?
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Nov 4, 2013 18:25
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Possible, unless it's old. You should be able to see photos or download the manual and view the plug to see if it looks like yours. I've had success with that on Kenwood stereos but also had times when the plug was not the same.
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Nov 4, 2013 19:58
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Anyone have thoughts/recommendations on security systems? I've been considering one due to a "break in" in which the thieves left no marks on the car other than leaving the doors unlocked and taking a few things from inside. They did it to two other cars right next to mine as well so I didn't leave the doors unlocked or something. Already asked in the Subaru thread but figured this one might have a broader reach on the topic.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:53
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powderific posted:Anyone have thoughts/recommendations on security systems? I've been considering one due to a "break in" in which the thieves left no marks on the car other than leaving the doors unlocked and taking a few things from inside. They did it to two other cars right next to mine as well so I didn't leave the doors unlocked or something. Already asked in the Subaru thread but figured this one might have a broader reach on the topic. My compustar has proximity alert, shock alert, and a two way remote, so my keys alert me if a) some one is standing too close b)a bird poo poo on it, or leaf fell on it c) a door, hood, or trunk was opened. Also, it had an option for back up battery I didn't get so if they cut your power, alarm still goes.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:27
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Is there any good way to clean dust out from behind the plastic screen on a head unit? The JVC stereo in my Jeep is just full of desert dust. I guess just taking it apart will give me the best answer. The face on my stereo is not removable, are the screens usually attached to the outer plastic in some way where I'll wreck it if I try taking it apart?
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Nov 5, 2013 20:14
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Astonishing Wang posted:I guess just taking it apart will give me the best answer. The face on my stereo is not removable, are the screens usually attached to the outer plastic in some way where I'll wreck it if I try taking it apart? Totally depends on the unit. Usually if you pull it out of the dash you can get a good idea how serviceable it is. JVC and Panasonic used to (haven't looked in a couple years) have service materials and exploded parts diagrams online. You might try digging around on their site and seeing if you can find anything helpful. If the screen's available as a separate part from the face, odds are good it's easily disassemble...able. If you can find a service manual, you don't even have to guess at how to do it.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:46
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Molten Llama posted:Totally depends on the unit. Usually if you pull it out of the dash you can get a good idea how serviceable it is. I never even thought about that - I figured nobody ever repairs car stereo head units. I guess not everybody is happy with just buying another $40 radio when yours dies.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:51
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Panda Bear posted:Why do goons like crutchfield so much? Is it the site/selection? I'm just about fed up with them. I've only ordered from them twice ever and for the second time they totally spaced on shipping my order for a week and I had to call for them to overnight it, even though both times I received an email saying that my items were "shipped" (ie a UPS label was printed out for them and they were promptly forgotten about). I'm at the point where I'm thinking of asking for a refund or something because truth be told I would not have given them more of my money if I knew that they'd take two weeks to get my order to me again. It's a good place to look up stuff, and they have easy access to installation tools and guides. I've never actually ordered a component from them, but I've picked up the installation guides and some random harness adapters and such.
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Nov 7, 2013 00:04
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rscott posted:
drat, I'm tempted to pick up some of that and re-wire my amp->speaker connections with it.
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Nov 7, 2013 00:06
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I recently picked up a new Mazda CX-5 with navigation and Bose and I'm pretty disappointed with the sound quality. I am exploring replacing just the speakers and would like some opinions. I mostly listen to alt rock, some electronica, some rap. I'd like to stay under $500 if possible. Here are the stock speaker locations and sepcs as well as a wiring diagram:   I've thinking maybe get two component sets and put the drivers in the door locations and the tweeters in the D-pillar/dash locations. The issue with that is the Bose system has the crossover in the amp and will expect to drive the 8 speakers (the 9th is the center in the middle of the dash) rather than 4 crossovers, and the impedance is all over the place. Am I overthinking this?
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Nov 8, 2013 04:15
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I'm not a full expert or anything but running 4 ohm speakers will probably be just fine, the risk comes when you go too low, it puts extra current through the amp. The weird part is the 9 inch woofers in the doors with 1.25 ohm impedance. I wouldn't drop a component speaker in there. Typical component sets are going to be 8 ohms each wired in parallel to give a 4 ohm channel. You won't get any volume out of it because it'll be running at 1/3 power. Review the sizes before you just start buying stuff, and pop the grilles if you can to check to see if the 3 inch "tweeters" are some kind of coaxial 3" + 1" pair or something.
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Nov 8, 2013 06:37
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX, and the stock sound system blows. And sucks. I may not have the opportunity to replace it right this minute, but it's on the cards to be done. So, question time: 1) The head unit is a standard double-DIN fitment, correct? I'm not sure if I want a double or single unit (the placement of it means having a big screen would be of limited utility to me), but I shouldn't need an additional fascia surround or anything? 2) What size are the speakers? I'm getting conflicting information from Googling around. As best I can see, rear doors are 4", and should be fitted with 4", whereas the fronts are 5.25" but will take 6.5" with a spacer ring. 3) I quite like having a remote for the head unit, so I can change tracks and volume without taking my hand off the wheel. Now, the car never had wheel controls or a column stalk as an option, but I've seen an aftermarket one's available from Axxess in the US. However, it's quite pricey, and it got me thinking - if I take a stalk control from another car and fabricate an appropriate mount for it, plus a suitable wiring adaptor for my choice of head unit, is there any logical reason it wouldn't work? As far as I can see the stalk adaptors for head units are always separate from the generic power/signal wiring, and as long as it's the right one for the control stalk, it won't care what car it's in. 4) What's the hot tip for price vs performance on sound deadening material? I'm assuming there's a happy medium between sell-the-kids Dynamat and Ebay unbranded bitumen-and-sticky-tape. My plan would be some deadening material on the doors, boot lid, boot area if it's worth it, floor if it's really worth it. Sensible amount on the panel rather than going full retard with the stuff everywhere I can stick it, backed up with better insulation behind whatever trim panels/carpet etc have to come off for the former.
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Nov 9, 2013 23:27
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InitialDave posted:I'm not sure if I want a double or single unit (the placement of it means having a big screen would be of limited utility to me), but I shouldn't need an additional fascia surround or anything? I can't really address the other questions, but if you have the space for a double DIN, try to go double DIN. I personally hate how a single DIN stereo looks in a double DIN opening, you wind up with a weird compartment under the head unit. For example, my old car looked like this with an aftermarket head unit:  Versus the stock (obviously the trim is missing in this, I took that photo when I was trying to sell the stock head unit):  Personal preference maybe, but to me it just looks so weird having a small stereo in a big opening.
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Nov 10, 2013 11:31
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some texas redneck posted:I can't really address the other questions, but if you have the space for a double DIN, try to go double DIN. I personally hate how a single DIN stereo looks in a double DIN opening, you wind up with a weird compartment under the head unit. I totally agree with this, and now days you can get a crazy awesome double din unit for much less than even a few years ago.
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Nov 10, 2013 15:26
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It is still entirely possible to get double DIN head units without screens. Some of them look pretty awesome, as well.
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Nov 10, 2013 17:38
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some texas redneck posted:I can't really address the other questions, but if you have the space for a double DIN, try to go double DIN. I personally hate how a single DIN stereo looks in a double DIN opening, you wind up with a weird compartment under the head unit. What I may do is get a single DIN head unit and a single DIN tray and have a mess about with them, because ultimately if I decide it just looks like rear end, I can stick the head unit in the Clio (which is single DIN anyway) and I'm only out the five or ten quid for the plastic tray. Powershift posted:It is still entirely possible to get double DIN head units without screens. Some of them look pretty awesome, as well.
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Nov 10, 2013 19:15
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Yeah I have space for a double DIN and was originally looking at both single or double, that is until I saw my buddies aftermarket single DIN deck in his Honda Pilot that used to be a factory double DIN unit. He thought he'd get a single and then use the compartment underneath to run wires and hold his ipod and phone, but it's just a cheesy looking plastic insert that poo poo rattles around in. Speaking of Double DIN's, I was pretty close to pulling the trigger on an AppRadio2 unit after I saw what it combined with ARLiberator installed on an Android phone can do. Unfortunately every time you connect your phone this pioneer process runs to sync your contacts and his deck took at least 2 to 3 minutes to boot up... maybe his setup was just funky, but that would drive me nuts having to wait that long each time you turned the bloody car on.
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Nov 11, 2013 01:55
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I'd really recommend against keeping a phone in those little compartments. Yeah, you can run wires through them, but then your phone is sliding/bouncing around in the plastic cubby. Your phone winds up getting scratched to poo poo, and if you take a corner fast or take off fast, the phone is taking flying lessons. If the pocket is high enough, those flying lessons often end with you catching the phone with your crotch (ask me how I know!). And if it takes flying lessons, the cables get ripped out forcefully - which destroys ports in a hurry. Those tube Panasonic head units were made in the early 00s - and used ones still sell for nearly what they cost brand new. You usually can't get a working one for under $600, despite being 10+ years old. As far as phones go, I have a cheap phone mount on my dash. It's mounted with some super strong double sided tape that it came with; since I have a center-mounted cluster, it blocks a bit of the tach when the phone is in it, but I generally shift by ear anyway. I do delivery full time and rely heavily on Google Maps, and generally have music streaming from the phone to the stereo (via aux), so the position works nearly perfectly for me.  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Nov 11, 2013 |
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Nov 11, 2013 13:33
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I normally have a bit of rubber or gripmat for things like that. I also really hate phone mounts, for reasons I'm not even entirely sure of myself. Not to start a minor goon-welling session, but seeing as I'd need to get a single DIN head unit for the Clio anyway, I figure I've got nothing to lose by trying it in the Impreza first. If it's poo poo and won't work how I want, double DIN it is.
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Nov 11, 2013 14:27
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Also, some of those extra cubbys have doors on them to prevent stuff from flying, not sure if they made one for your car though
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Nov 11, 2013 16:57
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I am having zero luck finding a decent price on 4 gauge ofc wire. The best quote I've gotten thus far has been $90 for 35 ft (25 power/10 ground). Anyone have some hot tips?
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Nov 13, 2013 10:03
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2reachmu posted:I am having zero luck finding a decent price on 4 gauge ofc wire. The best quote I've gotten thus far has been $90 for 35 ft (25 power/10 ground). Anyone have some hot tips? Are you relocating your battery or something to need that sort of wire? Because if that's the case, forget about expensive "oxygen-free copper" (all copper wire is oxygen-free, otherwise it would be green) and get some 0 AWG (~55mm2) if it's the starter battery. Starting an engine takes serious amps at 12V. Go find a store that carries welding supplies, a truck mechanic or similar shop. They'll have booster cable wire cut to length or welding cable in large gauges.
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Nov 13, 2013 10:15
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2reachmu posted:I am having zero luck finding a decent price on 4 gauge ofc wire. The best quote I've gotten thus far has been $90 for 35 ft (25 power/10 ground). Anyone have some hot tips? Yeah, stop reading Monster Cable marketing materials. Beyond that, listen to KozmoNaut. Get some welding cable. It won't have that pretty semi-clear insulation, but it'll carry more current for a far cheaper price. Toss some split loom over it to make it less ugly. The only reason to buy into the super expensive poo poo is if you have a show vehicle with visible wiring. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 10:35
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KozmoNaut posted:Are you relocating your battery or something to need that sort of wire? Because if that's the case, forget about expensive "oxygen-free copper" (all copper wire is oxygen-free, otherwise it would be green) and get some 0 AWG (~55mm2) if it's the starter battery. Starting an engine takes serious amps at 12V. That is a fine idea, I will call around to some. There was like 3 stereo shops in town and 2 quoted me like $120. Everything with an ok price has been copper wrapped aluminum. As for the system, I'm running two amps (2 and 4 channel) and was hoping to do some ok looking wire routing with a ground and power block some texas redneck posted:Yeah, stop reading Monster Cable marketing materials. This is also good. Thank you. Haha, I'm not trying to be one of those audiophile turds with the $5000 3ft headphone cable. 2reachmu fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 10:43
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2reachmu posted:Everything with an ok price has been copper wrapped aluminum. If it's just for power to the amps, copper-wrapped aluminum is fine, as long as it's stranded and not solid conductor. All your signal will be carried a line level to the amps, no need for massive cables there. Unless your setup is seriously weird.
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Nov 13, 2013 16:01
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Also believe it or not Wal-Mart has 4GA amp install kits for like $20 with a fuse block and everything. I wouldn't use the RCAs that come with them though, the terminals are waaaaay cheap. But you can throw away everything except the 4GA wire and still get a deal.
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Nov 13, 2013 20:13
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Powershift posted:It is still entirely possible to get double DIN head units without screens. Some of them look pretty awesome, as well. This is loving awesome. I really want it. However, I came here to ask a question that would avoid me replacing the factory head unit in my 2006 Dodge Charger RT with the 6 speakers + 1 factory sub. I would prefer to keep the head unit, because to replace it means I have to either pay a bunch of money for a cable to bypass the factory amp (or reroute the speakers from it, which isn't going to happen) + by a harness to maintain steering wheel controls (or sacrifice them, but that's retarded and I'm not going to do that) + buy a new head unit + 5 channel amp for the speakers and sub, etc etc. However, I just bought 4 of these and, frankly, I'd be happy with just an auxiliary input. I have found, on ebay, basically a wire harness that you install that adds an auxiliary input. Here Anyone use a harness like this? Do they work well? Easy to use/install/keep factory amp/steering wheel controls?
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Nov 15, 2013 05:37
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johnny sack posted:However, I came here to ask a question that would avoid me replacing the factory head unit in my 2006 Dodge Charger RT with the 6 speakers + 1 factory sub. I too wanted to keep the factory radio at first because it was a nice 6 disc changer, but I really love all the features the new radios gives.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:59
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johnny sack posted:However, I just bought 4 of these and, frankly, I'd be happy with just an auxiliary input. I have found, on ebay, basically a wire harness that you install that adds an auxiliary input. I know a couple people with them. Works fine. If you have a base model head you'll lose Sirius, but I'm not sure that's a huge loss post-merger. Cage posted:I dont know anything about the car specifically, but did you look at crutchfield? I drive an 04 mustang with the silly mach audio system, and they threw in the adapter I needed to use the factory amps and subs for free when I bought an aftermarket radio. The amp in late-model Chryslers is managed by CANBUS. With Crutchfield's new head discount, the adapter's $80. Better than full price but still spendy.
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Nov 15, 2013 18:21
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I used an "iSimple" brand aux input adapter on my Grand Cherokee, so I could plug my iPhone in. It was a piece of piss to fit and worked exactly as if it were a factory item, full steering wheel functionality and everything. The only thing it didn't do was accurately display track numbers, as it was treating the phone like it was a CD changer, and topped out when the display read track 99.
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Nov 15, 2013 19:28
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I'm getting some static using the AUX in on the head unit I just installed when my phone is plugged in to the cigarette lighter charger. I guess I should start checking grounds?
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Nov 15, 2013 20:57
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InitialDave posted:I used an "iSimple" brand aux input adapter on my Grand Cherokee, so I could plug my iPhone in. It was a piece of piss to fit and worked exactly as if it were a factory item, full steering wheel functionality and everything. The only thing it didn't do was accurately display track numbers, as it was treating the phone like it was a CD changer, and topped out when the display read track 99. Could you tell me what year your Jeep was, and what the stereo was? Just trying to get a feel for how it might work in my Charger. I have decided to go this route until I can find a Panasonic CQ-TX5500 for sale. I am in love with that thing.
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Nov 16, 2013 04:45
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Very late (December) 2002 Overland, so canbus wiring and premium sound system. I think the head unit was the RBP model code.
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Nov 16, 2013 10:12
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Okay so I have the 4 6x9" speakers put into the car now. I am utterly disappointed. The factory system doesn't have nearly enough power for aftermarket speakers and I'm experiencing that now. Additionally, I was unaware that the front speakers (door 6x9's and 3.5" dash speakers) were setup as component speakers. I was totally bummed after I had put in the first door speaker and discovered this. First of all, I would have bought cheaper 6x9's, looking for those that put out more bass than anything. More importantly, now I have to replace the dash speakers because the 3-way 6x9's I bought are not doing their job. Here's the goal: On the least amount of money spent, I want to make the sound system adequate. I consider the factory 7-speaker setup to be inadequate. As I have it now, it's better, but still inadequate. I very much doubt that simply replacing the 3.5" dash speakers will be sufficient. So, what should I buy to add more power to the speakers, also to the sub (which I will most likely have to replace)? I would like to spend as little money as possible, I would by far prefer to keep the factory head unit. I also don't want more than 1 amp (whether that means I'll need a 5-channel amp or some sort of DSP with a built in amp). I don't know. It sounds bad now and I want it to sound a lot better, hopefully for not more than $200 or so. edit: I think I am going to buy a line converter and just add a sub to the trunk + replace the dash speakers. That will accomplish most of what I want. johnny sack fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Nov 18, 2013 |
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Nov 18, 2013 04:35
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I'm going to buy a touchscreen double din receiver, and my primary use will be via a connected iPhone. Anyone have advice on which brand/unit works best? Thus far I've looked at Pioneer and Kenwood, but I'm open to other suggestions.
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Nov 18, 2013 04:49
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