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So I'm in a hilarious situation: I own an '09 Impreza 2.5i - this only has a physical lock on the driver's door, nowhere else on the car. Years ago, some junkie took a screwdriver or something to that lock and completely mangled it. This has not ever been a problem and the expense of a new cylinder, rekeying, whatever just didn't make sense, when my fob works perfectly fine. A couple of months ago I destroyed my elbow in a fall, rendering me unable to even start the car, let alone drive it. Last Friday, my rehab therapist said I was good to at least try shifting and starting the car, and over the weekend I attempted to do exactly that. Except that the battery is flat, and due to aforementioned lock issues, I can't unlock the car to pop the hood to get a jump. What in the world is there to do? Is there a way to manually pop the hood without needing to access that release inside the car?
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Nov 4, 2013 21:35
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Cuntpunch posted:So I'm in a hilarious situation: You're better off trying to pick the lock, you won't be able to pop the hood from outside of it without damaging something. Should cost around $50 or less to have CAA or w/e come to your house and open it.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:36
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Cuntpunch posted:So I'm in a hilarious situation: Yeah, there are people who can do this for you. You can probably call a tow company and find one that can do it. You need to use the funky multi-bend tool to open a Subaru lock and some patience. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hotsR0wn_IQ I wouldn't try this yourself as you may very well gently caress up your door panel or window trim/seals/etc. Happened to my mom's Impreza and the guy was able to unlock it, but he couldn't get the tool back out. Ended up having to take the door apart and the glass out to get the thing out after.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:40
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This weekend my 2013 Crosstrek, my girlfriend's 2008 Grand Prix, and our duplex neighbor's second generation Sportage were all "broken" into with no apparent damage. We came out in the morning to unlocked cars with stuff rifled through. There wasn't much in the cars to begin with—they took a coat, some cd's, and our neighbor's kickboxing gloves (?)—and it didn't look like they did anything other than that to my or my girlfriend's car. They did break our neighbor's ignition. While I'm glad that they didn't break out our windows, it weirds me out that they got in with apparently very little effort. I know nothing about car security—are they all that easy to break into? Is there any point in putting in a security system? I don't want a siren going off at the slightest touch but I did notice they make pager versions that'd at least let me know it's being hosed with
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Nov 4, 2013 21:46
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VelociBacon posted:I'll have to check it out I guess. I won't be buying 15s for winter or 17s in the summer because I've already got tires. I can always just swap the winters on for a couple months then put the summers back on but it's a pain. Check Toronto Kijiji for "JDM Subaru" in the wheels/tire section. I've seen some 5-spokes go for $450 with good winter tires. The shops there get container loads, so the pricing is pretty sweet. (The shipping might kill it for you)
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Nov 4, 2013 21:52
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Ok thread, I found some winter wheels, with winter tires already installed) thanks to your help. I finally have a garage, so I want to swap these myself, but I am seeing all sorts of arguments as to what points to use for the floor jack and jack stand. Is front crossmember/rear diff for the floor jack, and the pinch welds for the OEM jack for the jack stands right? Is this the circled part at the following image the correct crossmember point? http://fi.somethingawful.com/is/img51/9880/3ee294eb2a4f445093ca0dc.jpg Again, 2013 wrx. I am generally not mechanically an idiot, but I haven't done any real work on cars before due to not having a garage.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:06
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I use the pinch points and rear diff as jack points. The plate under the front x-member is hard to get to unless you have a long low profile jack. A pad of some sort is a good idea if you don't want to mangle up your pinch welds.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:13
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So what's the best way to get jack stands under the front pinch welds? Like you said the front cross member is difficult so I'm still not sure on the best way to get the front end high enough to actually transfer to a stand.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:38
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powderific posted:This weekend my 2013 Crosstrek, my girlfriend's 2008 Grand Prix, and our duplex neighbor's second generation Sportage were all "broken" into with no apparent damage. We came out in the morning to unlocked cars with stuff rifled through. There wasn't much in the cars to begin with—they took a coat, some cd's, and our neighbor's kickboxing gloves (?)—and it didn't look like they did anything other than that to my or my girlfriend's car. They did break our neighbor's ignition. Check your weather stripping/door seals. You can easily use a wedge (like a door stop) to crack open the door enough to slide in a metal rod to press the unlock button.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:45
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I'm sure that's what they must have done but I couldn't see any damage to the weather seals on my car and my girlfriend's car is beat up enough that I'd never be able to tell anyway. They must have been the gentlest of thieves up until they ruin my neighbor's ignition.
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Nov 4, 2013 22:51
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Fifty Three posted:So what's the best way to get jack stands under the front pinch welds? Like you said the front cross member is difficult so I'm still not sure on the best way to get the front end high enough to actually transfer to a stand. I would think most consumer jacks could get under there, but you're going to be whacking and flexing the bottom of your bumper cover until you lift the car a few extra inches. powderific posted:I'm sure that's what they must have done but I couldn't see any damage to the weather seals on my car and my girlfriend's car is beat up enough that I'd never be able to tell anyway. They must have been the gentlest of thieves up until they ruin my neighbor's ignition. The thief might have used an air wedge.
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Nov 5, 2013 00:48
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si posted:http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=193327&p=rock Thanks for this. Sadly their site claims to be sold out. I poked around some more after I got the parts from you. Found some other places that will do reman, and some places selling used ones. Not sure what I will do yet but this helped a lot.
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Nov 5, 2013 01:58
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I didn't see this posted and I know some of you are the "go fast and play in the face of danger" types http://subiesport.tv/site/2013/11/subaru-contest-wrxstibrz-owners/ quote:DoubleURXXX Productions (*cough* a renegade marketing wing of Subaru *cough*) has partnered with Bucky Lasek on something only for WRX, STI and BRZ owners where they are asking owners to “show your driving chops.” (I’ve confirmed with Subaru corporate and yes, this is official and totally legit. And yes, you will need a WRX/STI/BRZ VIN to enter…sorry Legacy GT owners.) So http://www.doubleurxxxproductions.com/ and https://www.doubleurxxxproductions.com/vingotmein/ are your important links. The first one is good simply because of how funny it is.
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Nov 5, 2013 04:15
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Yakattak posted:Anyone else hate how terrible their older Subarus sound on start up during fall/winter? Tell me about it man, it doesn't even get that cold here (40F) and my 174k (182k now) DOHC EJ25 sounds like this for about 45 seconds every morning. I baby the poo poo out of it until the temp needle moves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0jzGom0K_E Got lost down a youtube hole and ended up finding this slideshow where a man fabricates half a Subaru Justy, and all the mods necessary to turbo it. Even his own struts. Unfortunately no other info on the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYRlmLHjkt0 Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Nov 5, 2013 |
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Nov 5, 2013 06:14
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The cold wreaks havoc on my car. My oil cooler hoses are leaking on first start but not enough fucks given to fix it.
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Nov 5, 2013 15:01
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AboveAndBeyond posted:I didn't see this posted and I know some of you are the "go fast and play in the face of danger" types What a wank.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:05
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Cool, so the locksmith balloon-pried the door enough to just pop the physical lock. Popped the hood, had the girlfriend bring her SX4 over and got cables set-up buuuuuut the battery may or may not be dead beyond the power of electrical necromancy to revive. I'm confused by, and would love thoughts on: 1. Immediately upon finishing connecting the cables(getting the negative clamped onto my strut bolt, per directions in the manual), the alarm went off - so it was able to draw some current? 2. I hit the unlock on my fob to shut down the alarm as my gf got her car started, this was fine 3. I got into my car and there was some sign-of-life(the lighting on the ignition key slot is what I clearly remember) 4. I tried to actually start the car and lights went out, starter didn't even attempt to turn over 5. Gave it about 15 minutes of her car running at moderate RPMs, tried again - still nothing. When I say nothing I mean *nothing* not even the blinking security light on the console, turning the key to ON doesn't even have the LCDs for the clock turn on, *nothing*. Which seems weird, because it seems like even if there wasn't power to get the starter turned over, wouldn't there be enough to power some of the very low-draw lighting? So question #1: Is there some other weird security thing that's being triggered and just completely locking down the car that I need to get disabled? if not, question #2: new batteries - obviously this is just a generic subaru-branded battery. Dealership wants like $130 for an OEM replacement and this dumb elbow has me *strapped* for cash, so based on specs or brands is there anything reliable I can pick up at something like Oreillys, Autozone, whatever and what do I need to know about specs/size/etc?
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Nov 5, 2013 23:54
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Id lean towards immobilizer but I know nil about these cars security systems except for how to install the OEM ones.
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Nov 5, 2013 23:57
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I don't think there's any more security that you're missing. It could very well be that your battery is beyond saving and needs replacement or your jumper cables are too thin and can't pass the needed current for starting. Guessing you don't have a battery charger, if you want you could try starting the car with your battery unhooked with the jumpers directly on the hookups to see if it at least turns over. In my experience, hooking up the cables anywhere else other than directly at the terminals doesn't work very often, possibly because the cables can't make a good enough connection. The reason why you don't want to do battery to battery is that if there's a short in the dead one, or it's significantly smaller than the good battery, it'll produce hydrogen gas which can explode. If they're evenly matched then it's worth a shot. Just be careful. As for cheaper replacement, you might be ok with just whatever Walmart has for a quick fix, what kind of climate are you in? Need lots of cca for harsh winters? Then you might need to save up a little and splurge on a better battery. I'm pretty sure most new Subaru's are group 35 but any place that sells batteries will look it up for you anyway. Group 24f isn't much bigger physically but it seems like they pack some more cca for the same price compared to group 35 when I was shopping around for a battery recently.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:23
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Took the timing cover back off my 2.5TS to double check if I got everything lined up and I spun it a few times and it was perfect! Hooray, now I am ready to put the engine back in! I can't wait to get this thing on the road. It may not have a turbo or anything but it will be the first time I've ever removed a motor from anything and put it back in. I have no clue what I want to do with the car, on one hand it's a manual wagon, on the other it's not particularly exciting and I think I could get 4-5k for it.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:26
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Voltage posted:Took the timing cover back off my 2.5TS to double check if I got everything lined up and I spun it a few times and it was perfect! Hooray, now I am ready to put the engine back in! I can't wait to get this thing on the road. It may not have a turbo or anything but it will be the first time I've ever removed a motor from anything and put it back in. Sell it and buy a wrx or another cheap subaru. Then descend into the subaru madness pain train ala my thread.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:28
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Jesus Christ, the amount of RX's I've seen when looking at local WRXs for sale advertised as lookalikes or "not WRX" is crazy. I've now seen 3 where someone has cut the front of their car apart and painted the radiator black or white or something to make it look like the car has a FMIC, and it looks about as good as you'd expect. It doesn't even look like a few of these people are doing it to trick people either, they legitimately think it looks good.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:57
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Bajaha posted:I don't think there's any more security that you're missing. It could very well be that your battery is beyond saving and needs replacement or your jumper cables are too thin and can't pass the needed current for starting. Guessing you don't have a battery charger, if you want you could try starting the car with your battery unhooked with the jumpers directly on the hookups to see if it at least turns over. I'm in Colorado, so we definitely get some chilly morning to start against. The car has only sat idle for just over 2 months, so it seems weird that it would go complete stone-cold-dead that fast(the internet is full of "my car sat for 6 months and just needed a jump" stories, but it is THE INTERNET so I take them with a grain of salt). A battery charger seems much less expensive than a straight up new battery - would it even be worthwhile to go that route do you think? Alternately, given they're both reasonably comparably sized and powered cars, I can't imagine the SX4 has a battery significantly mismatched to the Impreza 2.5i - should I just try clamping battery-posts to battery-posts for better, more direct power contact? Neither car is particularly old so I don't know that I would expect the batteries to be completely hosed and prone to exploding - I last drove my car literally 30 minutes before I crippled myself, and it was starting strong and without so much as a hiccup previously, so I don't think it was dying prior to sitting for a bit.
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Nov 6, 2013 01:59
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It might have been some auxiliary system draining the battery (security system flashes a light, guessing sends power to some sensors, aftermarket radio might cause a drain if you have one), 2 months does seem like a really short time for it to go flat though, could be a weak battery if you took lots of short trips before it was parked. You guys don't really get crazy cold in Colorado so the cca rating isn't too important. It's handy to have a charger, but if it's gone flat shortly after it was parked then the battery is toast and charging it won't extend it's life much longer, if it'll hold a charge at all. If you can find one for cheap, even used off craigslist, it might be worth a shot to get some more life out of it, but it's a little bit of gamble. Keep in mind the cheap ones might burn out with a completely dead battery or will overcharge it if you don't watch it. I would try the post to post start and see if it works, if it starts then take it for a long drive and then take it to an autoparts store and get it tested, should let you know exactly how bad the battery got and if you can hold off getting a new one for a little while. Just keep in mind too that with a dying battery, it'll be really taxing on the alternator and could end up frying it after long term use with a crap battery. On the plus side they're really easy to swap in Subaru's
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Nov 6, 2013 04:13
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Bajaha posted:It might have been some auxiliary system draining the battery (security system flashes a light, guessing sends power to some sensors, aftermarket radio might cause a drain if you have one), 2 months does seem like a really short time for it to go flat though, could be a weak battery if you took lots of short trips before it was parked. You guys don't really get crazy cold in Colorado so the cca rating isn't too important. Worthwhile just to pull the battery and take it to an autoparts store for quick testing or whatever, before worrying about trying anything else? It seems like it's pretty simple to pull the battery out entirely, so if that seems like a low-effort thing, it sounds better than the odd chance of either a) blowing up a battery and re-injuring myself or b) jumping it and finding out a day later that it is dead again anyway and I need to pull the battery.
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Nov 6, 2013 07:25
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If it's flat right now then they won't tell you much, unless they can charge it too before they test it.
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Nov 6, 2013 14:03
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Has anyone ever had to replace the elbow hoses on the oil cooler? Is it as brain dead easy as I think it is?
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Nov 6, 2013 14:56
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Yakattak posted:Has anyone ever had to replace the elbow hoses on the oil cooler? Is it as brain dead easy as I think it is? I've done it. Step 1: Remove oil cooler. Step 2: Heat and remove the plug that goes in the block Step 3: Replace with parts from an EJ25 that doesn't have an Oil cooler Step 4: Throw the oil cooler in the trash.
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Nov 6, 2013 15:40
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daslog posted:I've done it. I'm trying to abide by the law of least effort.
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Nov 6, 2013 16:43
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Yakattak posted:I'm trying to abide by the law of least effort. It's not that hard beyond fluid spilling out everywhere if you don't drain them ahead of time. (even if you do a little bit)
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Nov 6, 2013 16:50
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daslog posted:It's not that hard beyond fluid spilling out everywhere if you don't drain them ahead of time. (even if you do a little bit) I just wanna replace the 2-3 elbow hoses.
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Nov 6, 2013 16:53
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Deleting the oil cooler is fine, you just have to replace or block off the water pump fitting and get the new sleeve for the oil filter screw on thing, but if you don't want to the pro tips for removing stuck rubber hoses: Heat gun + channel lock pliers. You heat the hose up a little bit so it expands and should free up that way. If that doesn't do it, work the channel locks all the way around the hose with some pressure to try and flex them to break up the corrosion. Then grab on with the channel locks and twist the hose. If it twists on the fitting, it will pull off.
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Nov 6, 2013 17:23
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Preface: 2005 Forester XT, stage 2 via Cobb Accessport and a catted downpipe. 154k miles, probably 6k since I went to Stage 2 this spring. Also have a catless uppipe with the EGT sensor removed. What would cause me to start getting P1312 codes all of a sudden? I've had the catless uppipe for several years without issue. Last week on my way into work I was cruising at about 75mph and got a CEL and flashing cruise light, pulled a P1312 code. Reset it and went on my way. Same thing today, returning home on the highway, cruising probably in the 75-80 mph range and got a CEL. P1312 again so I reset it. Wondering if I need to do the resistor mod, although I thought the Cobb map was supposed to eliminate that code?
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Nov 7, 2013 01:53
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Cuntpunch posted:
Did you try turning the key in the ignition on/off three times? (When alarm is activated and you don't have the remote to de-activate, override by turning key in ignition on-off 3x. ) Worth a shot.
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Nov 7, 2013 02:41
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LordOfThePants posted:
You can always open up the map in AccessTuner and see if that code has been disabled. Weird that it's getting triggered all of a sudden though.
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Nov 7, 2013 03:37
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I have a question about blow of valves in subarus. In the OP it says they are bad, and I googled it and read about how it causes too much fuel to be put into the engine. I've been looking at WRXs and a lot of the reasonable looking cars that look well looked after have one installed. Is having one going to cause problems with the car? Are they easy to remove? Should I just close the ad if they have one? E: Even if they aren't that bad I'd probably want to get rid of it because the cops are really hard on anything that looks faster than a toyota camry, and they are known for breaking things that look even slightly aftermarket when they try to defect you. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 03:56
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I have a question about blow of valves in subarus. In the OP it says they are bad, and I googled it and read about how it causes too much fuel to be put into the engine. I've been looking at WRXs and a lot of the reasonable looking cars that look well looked after have one installed. Is having one going to cause problems with the car? Are they easy to remove? Should I just close the ad if they have one? It's two bolts plus finding a stock one to put back on. While they won't cause extreme longevity issues running rich can cause cats to foul and same with spark plugs. Running lean is much worse than running rich. Honestly I wouldn't buy a car that had one because it's a sign the owner didn't research fully/drives like a wannabe Brian O'Connor.
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Nov 7, 2013 12:25
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Turbo question. What are the issues on fitting a 2006 td04 onto a 2002?
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Nov 7, 2013 21:22
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MrZig posted:Turbo question. What are the issues on fitting a 2006 td04 onto a 2002? Assuming you mean the TD04-L13T (02-07 WRX), no issues considering they both have the same turbo.
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Nov 7, 2013 21:54
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Yakattak posted:It's two bolts plus finding a stock one to put back on. While they won't cause extreme longevity issues running rich can cause cats to foul and same with spark plugs. Running lean is much worse than running rich. Honestly I wouldn't buy a car that had one because it's a sign the owner didn't research fully/drives like a wannabe Brian O'Connor. I'll keep looking then. When I googled it there were a lot of people saying it was OK, then reading further people asked why their car ran like poo poo and people said "oh you idiot its maf based you gotta tune around it" which sounds expensive to undo, I really wouldn't feel comfortable doing that myself.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:13
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