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Anyone have a source for custom length SLI bridge cables (I need one that is almost 12")? I have a dell T7600 and would like to put a second GPU on the slots above the CPU so there is space for airflow. I have looked around and the sites that I can find seem to have stop making cables or gone out of business. I posted over in the GPU thread but no one had anything.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 00:05 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 04:20 |
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dotster posted:Anyone have a source for custom length SLI bridge cables (I need one that is almost 12")? I have a dell T7600 and would like to put a second GPU on the slots above the CPU so there is space for airflow. I have looked around and the sites that I can find seem to have stop making cables or gone out of business.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 00:14 |
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Alereon posted:Aren't those slots on different PCI-Express controllers (provided by different CPUs)? I don't think you could do SLI/Crossfire in that kind of configurations. I have a SuperMicro board with the same E5-2600 procs and the PCI 16x channels are off different procs and it works fine. Might not work on the dell though, I cant find a clear doc for slot config.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 00:50 |
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dotster posted:Anyone have a source for custom length SLI bridge cables (I need one that is almost 12")? I have a dell T7600 and would like to put a second GPU on the slots above the CPU so there is space for airflow. I have looked around and the sites that I can find seem to have stop making cables or gone out of business. The only thing I can find is this 17" one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alienware-M...=item461584ef3d I'd make sure the connectors look right before ordering, though, they seem a bit different than the other SLI Bridges I've seen. I don't have nvidia hardware new enough to have one to compare the image to myself.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 01:29 |
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I think that's a cable from a 17" Alienware M9700 laptop, for whatever MXM GPU pair they've crammed into those things. Definitely doesn't look like any desktop SLI bridge I've ever seen.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 01:38 |
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Doesn't look like the right ends. At least there is one longer than I want and it is an official part so it should be possible.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 02:06 |
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Hi! I think I'm in the right place. I have an HP Pavilion DV7-3065DX laptop that I dropped at a most unfortunate angle in a manner that damaged the screen. I purchased a screen from eBay at http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-17-3-Inch-WXGA-Laptop-LCD-Screen-for-HP-Pavilion-DV7-3065DX-/270992911327?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160 I've taken it into a local computer repair shop since I don't know how to install it myself and I can only follow the YouTube instructions through step 2 (unplug laptop). They would charge me $50. When I dropped it off, the guy told me there was a chance that this was the wrong screen, because this laptop can have 6 different types of screens depending on [SOMETHING SOMETHING] and that the only way to figure it out would be to take a look inside. This one is an LG, and the actual screen is supposed to be some different brand, I don't remember. The guy called me that afternoon telling me "it's what I feared, this one won't fit your laptop. I'll have to get an adapter and that's $35 and will take about 3-4 days to get in." I asked if he could just tell me what model I would need, and he said he'd have to charge me a diagnostic fee that's more expensive than that because they just don't give out part numbers because profit margins. Because I can exchange the screen myself, duh. So this guy is full of poo poo, right? I guess I need to know if that's the case, and if so how I can call him out and not have to pay the extra fee. I called HP tech support and they were like "I don't know what you're talking about" but I may have been lost in translation? THANKS, GENERAL BULLSHIT! Or wherever I'm in!
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 03:06 |
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That's a good point, with no frame of reference it might not be 17" long or even the right connector. The other cables I saw were 70mm at max length.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 03:44 |
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Rexxed posted:That's a good point, with no frame of reference it might not be 17" long or even the right connector. The other cables I saw were 70mm at max length. The longest I can find are 140mm and I need more like 300mm.
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# ? Nov 6, 2013 22:04 |
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I'm pretty sure this won't work unless the box has a second CPU, as the two GPU PCIe slots are each hooked up to a different socket. I'd be amazed if it worked even then, but apparently the T7600 supports Quadro SLI, so it should support SLI with GeForces. For some silly reason I'm livechatting with Dell to see if they sell them, but looking over reviews, something occurs to me: Isn't there room for two cards in the lower PCIe slots? E: Live chat confirms, SLI in the bottom slots only. Top slot can be used for Maximus or an independent card only. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Nov 6, 2013 |
# ? Nov 6, 2013 22:29 |
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Factory Factory posted:I'm pretty sure this won't work unless the box has a second CPU, as the two GPU PCIe slots are each hooked up to a different socket. I'd be amazed if it worked even then, but apparently the T7600 supports Quadro SLI, so it should support SLI with GeForces. I have dual CPU, thanks for the info that sorts it out. There is room for dual cards in the bottom slots but there is no space between the cards and last time I did that ( in my T7500) I had all kind of heat issues with the inside card and when they are right next to each other there is no room for aftermarket coolers. Its my spare system anyway so it will have to do with just one GPU.
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# ? Nov 7, 2013 16:50 |
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My friend gave me her laptop because when she tried to log in after putting her password it says "The user profile service service failed to logon. User profile can not be loaded." Using google gives me fixes that require going into the registry and modifying things which sounds scary for someone of my level of computer know-how. I was told I can use the system recovery discs she made, but I'm not going to try because I don't know if it will possibly remove/delete/wipe the harddrive or whatever, and she has alot of un-back upped files that she doesnt want to lose. Can I use the discs she made(shortly after getting the laptop) without losing her data?
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 02:56 |
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Macksy posted:My friend gave me her laptop because when she tried to log in after putting her password it says "The user profile service service failed to logon. User profile can not be loaded."
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 04:52 |
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I'm looking for a not-super-expensive managed GbE switch that has a handful of 10GbE ports. Preferably top of rack. Any ideas? Maybe refurbished stuff?
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 05:08 |
Is it feasible to get some kind of hybrid drive to act as a windows/games drive or are they not in a good state of cost/performance at the moment? Also, I'm looking to upgrade my ram. How big is the difference between ddr1333 and 1666?
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 08:52 |
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az posted:Is it feasible to get some kind of hybrid drive to act as a windows/games drive or are they not in a good state of cost/performance at the moment? The hybrid drive manages the SSD part itself. You can't guarantee it'll keep the Windows stuff resident, depending on your gaming pattern, and the games probably don't need the boost. quote:Also, I'm looking to upgrade my ram. How big is the difference between ddr1333 and 1666? <5%.
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 09:00 |
Alereon posted:Video drivers or motherboard BIOS. Make sure you have the latest BIOS, update to latest Intel chipset INF drivers from Intel website, uninstall current drivers and remove remnants with Driver Fusion Free, then install the latest drivers from the nVidia website. Thanks for the reply. I did all this and it seemed to have worked for a while until today when I woke up my computer and the same error popped up 20 times according to event viewer before recovering. I don't really get this problem at all. I did not have it once on my 460 or 760, but the 660ti keeps doing this. What does the nvlddmkm error mean, anyway? Ryuga Death fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 16:45 |
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I don't know if this is the right thread, but there seems to be no dedicated thread to PC Audio: I'm discovering a very strange problem with stereo audio. I record a song off youtube, lets say. I play it on the same computer and it sounds fine. I take it over to another computer and play it, and its all garbled and low and you can barely hear it. On that same computer where the problem is happening, I use an audio editing program to play only the left channel, and suddenly it sounds fine (but coming out of one channel). I do the same an isolate the right channel, and it sounds fine (but coming out of the right channel only). The STRANGEST thing is that if I copy just the left or right channel, and then paste it onto the other channel (duplicating one channel onto the other) it works just fine in stereo. I cannot for the life me understand what is going on.
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 19:54 |
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Gozinbulx posted:I don't know if this is the right thread, but there seems to be no dedicated thread to PC Audio:
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 20:31 |
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My desktop has a second internal HDD. How could I configure that HDD to work as a back-up, one that I can open and click-and-drag? It's my first time having two HDDs in one workstation. Thanks in advance!
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 01:32 |
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ProperCoochie posted:My desktop has a second internal HDD. How could I configure that HDD to work as a back-up, one that I can open and click-and-drag? You ever used a USB drive? And it has its own drive letter? It's exactly like that, except you don't unplug it. If your drive doesn't yet have a drive letter, that's a different thing. Here's a walkthrough for Windows 7 that may or may not help, depending on how comfortable you are navigating through Windows.
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 02:20 |
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I'm working on Lenovo Thinkcentre Edge72 PC that came from a client who said it was stuck in a boot loop since he bought it. The power supply consistently fails the 5V rail test and seems to be the culprit, but I'm a bit hesitant to throw in a new one in case there's some weird issue with using a non-OEM component. The numbers look fine and everything's dandy as far as I can tell, but am I running a risk by putting the system in a spare ATX case and using an Antec 380W PS? Or is it advisable to buy an (expensive) OEM power supply unit instead?
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 03:04 |
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Blemish posted:I'm working on Lenovo Thinkcentre Edge72 PC that came from a client who said it was stuck in a boot loop since he bought it. The power supply consistently fails the 5V rail test and seems to be the culprit, but I'm a bit hesitant to throw in a new one in case there's some weird issue with using a non-OEM component. The numbers look fine and everything's dandy as far as I can tell, but am I running a risk by putting the system in a spare ATX case and using an Antec 380W PS? Or is it advisable to buy an (expensive) OEM power supply unit instead? Check the main power connector. If it fits a standard 20/24-pin ATX connector, just plug in the PSU you have. If it's a weirdo 14-pin thing, then go with the OEM unit unless you want to risk a (probably will work but can't be sure) pin adapter. Manufacturers are generally good about making it very obvious when they're using proprietary stuff these days, and Intel builds its parts around the ATX specifications it wrote in the first place, so there isn't very far proprietary parts can wander. The most proprietary a power supply can get is to change a pinout, because the power requirements are standardized.
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 04:10 |
When I went to uninstall my nvidia drivers, everything was going fine until the screen goes black. Normally at this point, the default res would pop up, right? However, for me the screen went black and stayed black. What would cause that? I had to do a hard shut down and uninstall the drivers from safe mode.
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 17:05 |
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Not sure if this goes in SH/SC or Inspect Your Gadgets. I have a Blu-Ray player with apps like Netflix, Pandora, etc. on it. It doesn't have WiFi, so I've got it connected to my router via powerline adapters. When there's net activity, there's a sort of static sound coming through the speakers. Ever brush or rub a microphone against your clothes or hand? Or blow or breathe heavily onto one? It sounds kind of like that. My sound system is ye olde Logitech z5500. What's the cause here, and is there a fix? Different adapters? Or a different outlet?
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# ? Nov 10, 2013 01:33 |
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Not sure if this goes in SH/SC or Inspect Your Gadgets. Just as a quick test, can you temporarily move the router into the same room so the device can be hooked up by regular ethernet and see what happens when it tries to do network access? This should help you sort out if the powerline adapters are causing the problem or not.
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# ? Nov 10, 2013 01:38 |
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Wilford Cutlery posted:Not sure if this goes in SH/SC or Inspect Your Gadgets. This is, like, thirdhand information, but I'd say try a power outlet not on the powerline network. If that works, keep it plugged there or plug in the speakers through a power conditioner (or surge protector with conditioning). It's not impossible for power line noise to propagate through a sound system, though that's usually the realm of really bad mains power and high-end audio gear (and, consequently, audiophile bullshit). E: Googled it, this is a known issue. You can try to wrap a ferrite core on the speaker's power cable. Best is just to switch to a different kind of networking, though. The key surge protector filtering keyword is "line noise filtering," too. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Nov 10, 2013 |
# ? Nov 10, 2013 01:41 |
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I've got a few pounds of DDR and DDR2 RAM (mostly 128MB and 256MB sticks, respectively) that are beyond useless to me, and I imagine everyone. Is there any any any way to get even a couple bucks' value out of them? Scrap or something? Thenks
Otis Reddit fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Nov 10, 2013 |
# ? Nov 10, 2013 22:08 |
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juche mane posted:I've got a few pounds of DDR and DDR2 RAM (mostly 128MB and 256MB sticks, respectively) that are beyond useless to me, and I imagine everyone. Is there any any any way to get even a couple bucks' value out of them? Scrap or something? Thenks http://boardsort.com/payout.php This dude will take it for up to $14 a pound depending on what the contacts are made out of. You pay your own shipping but sending the slowest cheapest way works just fine and should be more than covered by what he advances you. You'll want to have an accurate scale to weigh out your stuff with to the ounce. So if you had say 3 pounds of mixed RAM, he'd pay $36 for it, and it should only be $8.75 to mail it by Standard Post from the post office, leaving you with about $26 after shipping and paypal fee.
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# ? Nov 10, 2013 23:00 |
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I had a weird issue with USB ports and an iPhone on a newly built Windows 8.1 system. I have a fix for the problem so far but I don't know why the fix works, as I am not a USB expert... I have a new Asus Z87 motherboard that appears to work well with USB devices, but my iPhone was not being recognized by the Apple Mobile USB Device driver. After a google-search I found other people had similar problems, starting back in 2009, with Windows 7 and iTunes and the iPhone not be recognized. But this problem was only impacting a minority of Windows users. After going through many fix suggestions online, and updating my motherboard BIOS, and any other drivers related to USB, I was out of options. So for grins I attached a USB hub to my computer, then plugged the iPhone into the USB hub. And surprisingly at that point the Apple USB driver kicked in and Windows 8.1 recognized the device. Does anyone have any idea why using the hub worked? I figured initially I had a USB port issue on the motherboard, but did not find a problem. I have about 12 USB ports available thru this ASUS Motherboard (yeah, that's a lot) and the ports work fine for my mouse, keyboard, external harddrive and thumb drive. With 12 USB ports I figured there would be no issue plugging the iPhone in and having it being recognized by the drivers. The hub I am using happened to be built into my Dell monitor (30"). I don't know what would change by plugging the iPhone into a hub that would make this USB connection work. And for a control test, I have my old Windows 7 computer still active and the iPhone connects fine to the Windows 7 box through an available USB port. Of course, it's a different motherboard (old MSI motherboard from 2009). Any ideas? nnnotime fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Nov 10, 2013 |
# ? Nov 10, 2013 23:12 |
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It could be that the port you were using initially couldn't supply enough power to activate the connection. Using the monitor's built-in hub will provide power from the monitor, which should have plenty of juice. Did you try different ports on the motherboard? Sometimes they have some ports that are rated for higher speed/power than others.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 01:50 |
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Deanut Pancer posted:It could be that the port you were using initially couldn't supply enough power to activate the connection. Using the monitor's built-in hub will provide power from the monitor, which should have plenty of juice. Did you try different ports on the motherboard? Sometimes they have some ports that are rated for higher speed/power than others.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 02:59 |
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Okay, so my question is whether or not the Mini-DisplayPort and DisplayPort on my Lenovo ThinkPad x230 and it's Docking Station respectively is the same thing as the ones on MacBooks? Can U use cables like these to connect my laptop to a TV? If not, what cables do I need to use?
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 03:47 |
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Does anyone know if it's possible to change the PID and description of a USB device? I have a system running software that checks for the presence of a USB device with a specific description and PID, which is fine, except that the device is rather large, preventing me from using the software when travelling. I was hoping to purchase a cheap (and small!) USB device (a memory stick or similar), and reprogram its controller with the 'correct' PID and description. Is this even possible? Edit: I found this which is a development board witih a reprogrammable controller. I assume the it would be possible to give it any PID and description that I choose, and leave the controller empty. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Nov 11, 2013 |
# ? Nov 11, 2013 15:30 |
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I'm pretty sure you're asking how to circumvent a licensing/copy prevention mechanic, which is a violation of the DMCA for you and for anyone who helps you on that. I would contact the manufacturer with your problem - they're the ones who can either help directly or give you permission to try this.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 16:41 |
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Factory Factory posted:I'm pretty sure you're asking how to circumvent a licensing/copy prevention mechanic, which is a violation of the DMCA for you and for anyone who helps you on that. I would contact the manufacturer with your problem - they're the ones who can either help directly or give you permission to try this. Thanks, I have emailed the manufacturer and their reply was just that they don't offer a 'dongle' type product. They didn't mention anything about copy protection, but I was wondering about that myself. I already own a license to the product, if that helps.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 18:49 |
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xp67 posted:I already own a license to the product, if that helps. As far as the DMCA is concerned, it really doesn't. The legal advice here is not to try this unless you have written permission.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 19:34 |
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This is probably a long shot, but I have an old (1987-ish) Copam PC-401 that may or may not be working and is in danger of being thrown away. Is there any value in it, or is it possible that a museum would be interested in it? Google turns up surprisingly little about it and it kind of hurts me to see it go. It's loving huge though, and there's nowhere to keep it. This is pretty much the only image that I've found of one on the net:
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 22:14 |
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Bartie posted:is it possible that a museum would be interested in it? Maybe in another 50-100 years. It really looks like an IBM PC clone.
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 22:26 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 04:20 |
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The intel i5 CPUs appear to be able to run with 1333 and 1600mhz RAM. I'm thinking of doing a little upgrade to my desktop and the i5's seem nice. I have 8gb of 1333 and don't necessarily want to drop cash on 1600 unless I have to. Is there some big performance hit from doing this? I don't really get how it can support multiple RAM speeds, but I haven't paid really close attention to hardware in years...
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# ? Nov 11, 2013 22:36 |