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Thanks, that's a relief to hear. Either way, the goonerocity is appreciated!
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Nov 4, 2013 07:30
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| # ? May 27, 2024 07:36 |
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I'd be surprised if your insurance doesn't cover it. They'll probably just tell you to call a company like Safelite and have them come out to fix it.
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Nov 4, 2013 07:42
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kastein posted:4cyl and 5 speed is almost certainly 4.10 gears from the factory. Not sure 4cyl/auto was ever available in a YJ, if it was, it probably got 3.07s. Pretty sure auto was only available with the 6 cyl YJ though. This is correct.
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Nov 4, 2013 09:34
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explosivo posted:Some rear end in a top hat smashed my driver-side window (the little triangular part) with a piece of wood to get into my Jeep and steal my stereo and ash tray which I used for change (seriously was like $1.50 in pennies and nickles so good on you?) right in front of my apartment last night. It's pretty clear the dude just saw a '95 Cherokee with a nice stereo and assumed there wouldn't be a car alarm and went for it. The good news is that now that that's gone there's literally nothing else of value in there for someone else to steal while my window is busted. I'm talking to my insurance company tomorrow, but how difficult/expensive will it be to replace that window part? I vaguely remember hearing that those were hard to come by or replace or something like that. I could be wrong though. The smokers hinged window or the solid one? The solid ones are really, really common. It is somewhat annoying to install but not too bad. Not sure smokers windows were even available as an option anymore by 95.
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Nov 4, 2013 11:27
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Love the new thread title, makes me miss my XJ
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Nov 4, 2013 14:25
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 Cheapest way to drive Jeeps.  I think I high centered a bit on that rock
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Nov 4, 2013 20:15
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kastein posted:The smokers hinged window or the solid one? The solid ones are really, really common. It is somewhat annoying to install but not too bad. Not sure smokers windows were even available as an option anymore by 95. It's just the solid piece, not the hinged window. That's good news, I might have been thinking about the smokers window being hard to track down.
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Nov 4, 2013 20:16
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Sandbagger SA posted:
What game is this?
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Nov 4, 2013 20:27
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I've been chatting a bit with kastein via PM about an XJ I might be picking up, but I thought I'd open this question up to the whole jeep thread: A 2001 XJ like this one: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/cto/4169741831.html is a really bad idea, right? 0331 head is a headache that I shouldn't get into without having a bunch of time on my hands to swap over to a non-0331 head? The owner says it runs fine but as far as I can tell every 2000 and 2001 has the faulty head. (this isn't the one I'm considering buying)
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Nov 4, 2013 20:43
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:I've been chatting a bit with kastein via PM about an XJ I might be picking up, but I thought I'd open this question up to the whole jeep thread: If it hasn't given out on them yet you may be ok - if not, replacement heads brand new are around $500 I think. On another note, make sure it still has a frame in there somewhere. Minnesota is bad on cars. On a more selfish note: My Goodyear Duratracs will be in next week  I decided to stay with 33's for now, and slowly build up for 35's over the next couple of years. I also just got a teraflex standard slip yoke eliminator kit and rear drive-shaft that will be going on soon.
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Nov 4, 2013 |
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Nov 4, 2013 21:52
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Astonishing Wang posted:What game is this? http://www.spintires.com/#!/demo 
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Nov 5, 2013 00:47
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If I can poke my finger through parts of the rocker panel on a '98 XJ, is that too much rust?
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Nov 5, 2013 02:29
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Can you weld? Do you have inspections that will fail you for? If the rust goes into the pinch weld between the inner rocker and the floor pan (you can see this looking up from below just inboard of the rocker) or into the pinch seam at the bottom of the rocker, that's where I start worrying. Not because it's impossible to fix, it's not, but because it becomes much more annoying at that point. Same for the floors, if it's just holes, you can patch pretty easy. If the holes have merged with the pinch welds, things get to be a pain in the balls.
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Nov 5, 2013 02:33
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kastein posted:Can you weld? Do you have inspections that will fail you for? quote:If the rust goes into the pinch weld between the inner rocker and the floor pan (you can see this looking up from below just inboard of the rocker) or into the pinch seam at the bottom of the rocker, that's where I start worrying. Not because it's impossible to fix, it's not, but because it becomes much more annoying at that point. http://imgur.com/1b3Pqbr http://imgur.com/Lw801ty http://imgur.com/DEt48C5 That's just the floor pan; the rocker panels got covered in mud from my test drive, but my finger went right through.
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Nov 5, 2013 02:43
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That really isn't so bad, that's an afternoon project to fix for anyone with a welder and a pile of 16ga sheetmetal. I'd be worried more about the rust around the tiedown hole on the side of the frame rail there, make sure that isn't bad. Also check the rest of the frame rails and the floor behind the rear wheel wells. Aside from that, hell, you could drive that for another couple years before it actually rotted out badly enough that your feet would go through it. Or harass a friend into helping fix it now and have 6-8+ years before it becomes an issue, if the fixes are done right. e: new thread title rocks, though it would apply equally well to old Volvos I guess 
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Nov 5, 2013 02:51
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It didn't look too bad on any of the frame rails, just surface rust. There was a random huge gash on the rail in the back behind the driver side back wheel but it wasn't rusty, just... gash-y. Update: yours truly is now the proud owner of a somewhat rusty '98 XJ 2 door with the ax15 and 4.0 liter. It actually sounds pretty mean, too. Random clunks and creaks are now an everyday part of my life.  Double update: It died on me today, thankfully on a side street. Hoping it's just a battery/alternator thing. Radio was cutting out briefly for the preceding 20 minutes, but it actually died right as I went over a curb (I was trying to get all sweet with my new jeep skills, failed horribly.) Crank position sensor? Short in steering column (it seemed to be cutting out over bumps, and then died when I hit a bump)? Dead battery? IT BEGINS. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Nov 5, 2013 |
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Nov 5, 2013 02:57
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Man, you know what I just thought of. All the soccer moms around here driving around in their Rubicons because they had to have the most expensive Jeep, who probably have never used the lockers or put it in 4WD. I wonder what it'd take to convince them to let me swap transfer cases with them.
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Nov 5, 2013 17:47
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I have a line on a rear Dana 44A from a 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9L - also comes with a low pinion D30 for $250. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/4171972962.html I currently have a D44 in my TJ with drum brakes - would the discs and everything from the ZJ just swap over onto my axle giving me disc brakes? E: nevermind I found this: http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-1.htm
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Nov 5, 2013 19:13
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mattfl posted:Man, you know what I just thought of. All the soccer moms around here driving around in their Rubicons because they had to have the most expensive Jeep, who probably have never used the lockers or put it in 4WD. I wonder what it'd take to convince them to let me swap transfer cases with them. Them out on an extended weekend vacation (like, say, Thanksgiving) and you under their jeep with a wrench? Kidding, of course. The answer is  YOU WANT TO DO WHAT TO MY JEEP? BUT IT NEEDS THOSE PARTS, YOU SAID THEY ARE DIFFERENT FROM YOURS, IT WON'T WORK
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Nov 5, 2013 19:20
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kastein posted:Them out on an extended weekend vacation (like, say, Thanksgiving) and you under their jeep with a wrench? I was trying to figure out how quickly one could do a t-case swap if one were equipped with the exact tools needed. Turns out it's still a few hour job. But yeah, I see the conversation going the same way lol. Too bad both of my friends who bought Jeeps because they are "cool looking" and never plan on offroading them both got base models. 
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Nov 5, 2013 19:30
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:It didn't look too bad on any of the frame rails, just surface rust. There was a random huge gash on the rail in the back behind the driver side back wheel but it wasn't rusty, just... gash-y. Is the battery, you know, secured in place and the terminals and such nice and snug?
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Nov 5, 2013 20:43
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2002 JGC Laredo 6cyl 4.0 Charged the battery last night, ran fine. Won't start today. Even with jumper cables attached nothing electrical will come on (dome, radio, etc.). Tried google, and saw no one with a similar problem. Help us AI goons!
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Nov 5, 2013 21:18
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QuarkMartial posted:Is the battery, you know, secured in place and the terminals and such nice and snug? It is now.... and it also runs. Fancy that. Must have bumped it enough to cause less-than-good contact. One of the leads is somewhat cracked too, I guess I should replace that at some point.
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Nov 5, 2013 21:44
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A GLISTENING HODOR posted:2002 JGC Laredo 6cyl 4.0 See post below you. Check continuity between your various electrical bits before anything. I'd start with a wiring diagram, check ground, then find the longest possible always hot run from the battery, one connector on the lead post, the other at the end and see what the resistance is.
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Nov 5, 2013 23:07
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So I noticed some coolant leaking from the top of the radiator on my 95 SE.  It's leaking all around between the top of the core and the top piece. Googling seems to suggest it's a common problem and easy enough to just replace the radiator My question is what kind of replacement radiator should I get? There seems to be a lot of debate about the number of rows and what material to get, but I don't know anyone on those forums so I don't know whose opinion to trust. The one thing that people seem to agree on is to avoid the plastic tank, as that seems to be what caused the problem in the first place.
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Nov 6, 2013 04:05
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Chef Bromden posted:So I noticed some coolant leaking from the top of the radiator on my 95 SE. Yep, lovely plastic radiator end caps got you.
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Nov 6, 2013 04:28
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Plastic tanks blow. Literally and figuratively.  They may not be inherently bad in a general sense, but they'll fail a lot more spectacularly and when they do they're a lot tougher if not impossible to patch up temporarily (just throw some JB Weld on a metal one.) Two-row is fine; I've had good luck with CSF's all-metal replacements in my old YJ and my XJ. Radiatorbarn.com used to be everyone's go-to, but it looks like they're not around any more. I usually just google-shop the part number until I find the best deal, but maybe someone else knows of a good brand to check out.
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Nov 6, 2013 04:31
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I've never had a plastic radiator tank bite my rear end, but that being said, I haven't had any in a vehicle for 10 years, either. I've lost a few to sticks that made their way through my grill and punctured the radiator, but I don't think I can blame the radiator for that. Copper/brass radiators are probably better, but I'm not sure what the current recommendation is on them. I do like the fact that if you can sweat solder, you can fix one in the woods with a plumbing torch, wire brush, flux, and regular plumbing solder, though.
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Nov 6, 2013 04:31
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I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 that just started up and dies immediately. It wouldn't start without giving it gas, and it keeps running if I keep giving it gas. Dies immediately otherwise. The engine was power washed on Sunday and I let it sit until today - drove it to work and it's parked sitting at an angle parked on a curb. What should I check? Nothing looked loose at first glance.
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Nov 6, 2013 19:05
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Check your throttle position sensor, you probably got it wet. $50 mistake right there, don't power wash your engine. The distributor is another area to keep water away from.
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Nov 6, 2013 19:08
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A jeep engine bay is supposed to be full of oil and soot and manliness. Why would you ever want to wash that away?
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Nov 6, 2013 19:11
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I had a buddy over pulling his engine from a V70R that threw a rod: He rented a power washer and was washing his engine bay, so I had him clean my Volvo and GF's Outback and figured why not on the Jeep. Guess this is why not.  Is the TPS the flat sensor to the right of the throttle cables? Any way to check it, or should I just go get a TPS?
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Nov 6, 2013 19:19
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You can use a power washer as long as you keep it away from the TPS and distributor, I just don't bother. The TPS is mounted to the throttle body on the side facing the firewall - the one on the side facing the air cleaner is the MAP sensor. TPS is mounted with (iirc) either T20, T25, or T27 Torx screws, which may be a bastard to get out, you definitely want to make sure you're using the right bit so start large and try fitting em till one works. 96s are IIRC a split year, some have a TPS connector with flat pins, some have round pins, so pull the connector off it and look at the pins before you buy a new one. Honestly I usually get 3-4 at the junkyard and try them till one works, I don't like spending $50 on a sensor either.
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Nov 6, 2013 19:22
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So why is it that a possible loose battery connection (the leads were actually on super tight, took some wd40 and banging to get the positive one off, but I cleaned the contacts anyway and the battery itself wasn't held down too tightly) would cause the engine to stall? Shouldn't a motor that is running continue to run, given that the alternator is being spun? I'm all nervous to drive my xj on the freeway for fear of it stalling out again and having to shell out for a tow. Was it really just my battery being a bit loose in the engine bay? I see a ton of posts on various jeep forums about them dying when going over bumps, and it seems like usually it's something shorting out. I did check all the wiring in the engine bay and underneath and it all seemed to be kosher. Also: having a vehicle that I can just climb under and work on is awesome! wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 19:42
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Would a dying TPS cause "chrystler creep" or whatever the hell it's called? I was getting some throttle stickiness at low speeds in the past few weeks. Maybe the power wash pushed it over the edge. e: Replaced the TPS and I'm still having the same issue. Now what? Battery? Fuel Filter? goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 20:01
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I'm putting together a shade structure setup for desert camping in the TJ. Here's what I've come up with, a pretty simple design. One end of a tarp will attach to the roll-cage, hood loops, door, whatever. The other end will attach to poles that will be secured with guy-lines. I'm using painters poles with threaded ends so that it can be collapsible. So far I have 4 pieces of 4' pole, each threaded on one end. I have two couplers, which when used give me two 8' poles with smooth ends at the top and bottom. I think I'll cut each pole so that the combined length is right around 6.5', that way it will be tall enought to stand under (at one end) and the collapsed poles will be easier to fit in the back of the jeep. For the footing I'm going to use a couple of blocks of wood with a hole drilled in them. I think I'll use some pieces that are cut so they can do double-duty as wheel chocks (chalks?) footing:  I need ideas for the top of the poles - does anyone know of something that would work to hold the tarp AND a guy-line/tensioning cord? I need something like this: E: Actually, I should probably use a hook at the top so the tarp wont just blow off. top: 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 23:03
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It was the IAC valve. The shaft (and mushroom tip... lol) actually fell out whenever I was cleaning it. I had put it back together, but the AAA guy who came to test my battery and alternator said it was hosed if it fell apart while cleaning. Pulled the IAC and turned the ignition to on to test to see if the motor would activate and the valve didn't move. Replaced the IAC and the Jeep lives.
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Nov 7, 2013 01:03
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Astonishing Wang posted:I need ideas for the top of the poles - does anyone know of something that would work to hold the tarp AND a guy-line/tensioning cord? I need something like this: When I used to go camping I just tied a bowline and tossed it over the pole. If the pole has a alight can't to it the know just sat over the grommet and didn't stress the tarp too much. It always seemed to work well for me.
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Nov 7, 2013 05:54
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drat, I kinda want this Jeep: http://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/06/1967-jeep-gladiator-m715-4x4/
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Nov 7, 2013 06:35
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| # ? May 27, 2024 07:36 |
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Need some advice, I’m putting in a spring leveling kit and upgrading my shocks tomorrow. This is the first time I have done anything like this. Everything I have done previously has been bolt on (hitch and running board). Are there any tips or tricks to do this or is there anything I should know beforehand? I will be doing the work in an on-post auto shop so tools and lifts aren’t an issue.
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Nov 7, 2013 16:07
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