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keykey posted:I've already tried going that route too, a local guy in the TDI community let me swap parts off his to see where the failure point was. No dice.. Its not too late to return home, John Boy.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:34
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| # ? May 23, 2024 19:23 |
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keykey posted:I've already tried going that route too, a local guy in the TDI community let me swap parts off his to see where the failure point was. No dice.. Maybe its time to consider converting to an mTDI injection pump, turns the engine almost purely mechanical and entirely eliminates the ECU.
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Nov 7, 2013 23:33
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Maybe check the case pressure relief valve on the pump. Its free and can't hurt.
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Nov 7, 2013 23:52
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CommieGIR posted:Maybe its time to consider converting to an mTDI injection pump, turns the engine almost purely mechanical and entirely eliminates the ECU. The only issue I see with that is I live in CA and if the diesel is a '98 or newer, it's subject to smog check. Fart Pipe posted:Maybe check the case pressure relief valve on the pump. Its free and can't hurt. I'll check that out, though I don't see how that would be related to a charge pressure control difference trouble code. All vag-com units point to turbo, I've replaced the stock with a new and a known working one as well with no difference both times.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:14
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keykey posted:The only issue I see with that is I live in CA and if the diesel is a '98 or newer, it's subject to smog check. If timed correctly, it should pass emissions, and you can disconnected the ECU so the check engine light will no longer function.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:18
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CommieGIR posted:If timed correctly, it should pass emissions, and you can disconnected the ECU so the check engine light will no longer function. The issue is they don't actually check emissions, they just plug into the OBD2 port to see if the CEL is on, do a visual and done.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:30
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keykey posted:The issue is they don't actually check emissions, they just plug into the OBD2 port to see if the CEL is on, do a visual and done. gently caress.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:37
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CommieGIR posted:gently caress. My thoughts exactly. CA is the most vehicle unfriendly state to live in and they're really assholish about it to boot. Whereas other states have police sobriety checkpoints, we have those as well as smog inspection checkpoints. You can't make that poo poo up: http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_23219778/surprise-bay-area-drivers-have-cars-examined-at Fortunately this vehicle just passed smog last may because it wasn't in perma-limp mode so I just erased all pending codes, took it and it passed. My job for the next year and a half is to drive the car into the ground until it dies or I part it out after buying another commute box.
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Nov 8, 2013 04:28
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keykey posted:My thoughts exactly. CA is the most vehicle unfriendly state to live in and they're really assholish about it to boot. Whereas other states have police sobriety checkpoints, we have those as well as smog inspection checkpoints. You can't make that poo poo up: http://www.mercurynews.com/ci_23219778/surprise-bay-area-drivers-have-cars-examined-at It's an information gathering program. Voluntary and with no fines or punishment attached. Not sure what makes that so unfriendly or assholish. Actually having to get your car smogged sucks but if you really have a problem with it Nevada has much more liberal registration requirements. There's even no state income tax so as long as you can plausibly claim your primary residence is in NV and you are in transit for work in CA no one will really bug you. lightpole fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 18:05
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lightpole posted:It's an information gathering program. Voluntary and with no fines or punishment attached. Not sure what makes that so unfriendly or assholish. Actually having to get your car smogged sucks but if you really have a problem with it Nevada has much more liberal registration requirements. * Depending on your location. If you live in Northern CA, you can register in Reno, and you'll not have a problem, as there is an agreement between CA and NV that people may go between the states for work. Hell, a neighbor of mine works in Folsom (prison guard), and has opted to keep his CA plates because then he only has to smog every TWO years, where NV makes you smog every year. He's lived here since 2009/2010. Its perfectly legal. lightpole posted:There's even no state income tax so as long as you can plausibly claim your primary residence is in NV and you are in transit for work in CA no one will really bug you. Yeah, but NV now has a "gently caress you" luxury tax which has changed the way they charge you for registration. This means a $34 registration is now at least $110, with, I believe, $85 as a "misc govt tax", along with the $34 registration for ANY vehicle. It's based on MSRP, and only drops a percentage per year, which means my 5 year old car is still costing me over $1/day for registration, just because it had a laughably high sticker price. Viggen fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 8, 2013 |
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Nov 8, 2013 18:07
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That's still, I would hope, peanuts compared to CA state income tax
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Nov 9, 2013 04:02
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West SAAB Story posted:* Depending on your location. Must be nice being OPRAH RICH, but it didn't cost me $110 to rereg my older truck. It was a lot less to reg a 1 ton in NV than CA.
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Nov 9, 2013 19:11
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InterceptorV8 posted:Must be nice being OPRAH RICH, but it didn't cost me $110 to rereg my older truck. It was a lot less to reg a 1 ton in NV than CA. You're registered outside of Washoe, though, aren't you? My '89 cost a whole $34 to register in 2001, and $118 in 2012. MSRP based fees with a slow depreciation rate is what is screwing me against the wall.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:24
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My rego this year is $745 for 12 months.
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Nov 10, 2013 02:40
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Running the 7.3 powerstroke in the truck has made me really appreciate just how impressive my '10 TDI is at addressing many of the common diesel annoyances, particularly cold starting performance. Or maybe I just need to replace a worn out stock starter.
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Nov 10, 2013 03:23
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West SAAB Story posted:You're registered outside of Washoe, though, aren't you? My '89 cost a whole $34 to register in 2001, and $118 in 2012. MSRP based fees with a slow depreciation rate is what is screwing me against the wall. Nope, inside Wash-a-hoe
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Nov 10, 2013 06:20
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Shifty Pony posted:Running the 7.3 powerstroke in the truck has made me really appreciate just how impressive my '10 TDI is at addressing many of the common diesel annoyances, particularly cold starting performance. And/or glow plugs. Or both batteries. In a properly working truck you shouldn't have any problem at all starting a 7.3 in any average temperatures this time of year (assuming you don't live in the great frozen north). I've never had an issue with the one I used to drive until it was under 20F and I forgot to plug in the block heater. Warmer than that and it started just fine.
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Nov 10, 2013 15:59
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Motronic posted:And/or glow plugs. Or both batteries. In a properly working truck you shouldn't have any problem at all starting a 7.3 in any average temperatures this time of year (assuming you don't live in the great frozen north). I've never had an issue with the one I used to drive until it was under 20F and I forgot to plug in the block heater. Warmer than that and it started just fine. The biggest thing for starting a diesel in the winter is 1. Glow Plugs 2. Thinner oil 3. Diesel Anti-Gel In winter, you need to switch from 15w40 to 5w40 or whatever you are using (10w30, switch to 5w30) Heavy, thick, oil in the winter will keep the motor from turning over fast enough to start, so make sure that once fall hits you get the oil changed out.
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Nov 10, 2013 16:02
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my 7.3 has no problem starting at all. Hell, the 12 liter in my mack won't turn over more than twice before firing at -10*C.
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Nov 10, 2013 16:13
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CommieGIR posted:The biggest thing for starting a diesel in the winter is Since he mentioned "worn out starter" it makes me think batteries. But it's all guessing without a proper test. As far as thinner oil.......that all depends on if you have and use a block heater. I never switched viscosities for the winter. And diesel anti-gel is added to the fuel we buy around here in the winter.
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Nov 10, 2013 16:16
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Motronic posted:And/or glow plugs. Or both batteries. In a properly working truck you shouldn't have any problem at all starting a 7.3 in any average temperatures this time of year (assuming you don't live in the great frozen north). I've never had an issue with the one I used to drive until it was under 20F and I forgot to plug in the block heater. Warmer than that and it started just fine. Nah, the glow plugs are new-ish and measure good, the glow plug relay tests good, and the batteries are both less than a year old and kept on a tender so they are fully charged. The more I look at other people who reported similar trouble the more it points to the starter just lacking the oomph to quickly get the engine spinning fast enough to get the (slightly more viscous) oil pressure high enough to trigger the ECU to fire the injectors. Once an injector fires the engine instantly fires up. This has been a gradually worsening problem for the truck over the last three years or so and I've noticed that it cranks noticeably slow compared to other 7.3s even in the summer, just I think the higher viscosity of the colder oil pushes it over the edge. We aren't talking cold-cold here: 45-50 degree nights and it becomes an issue. I'll probably pull it at some point and have it bench tested because that's easy to do and free. Considering the starter is original and the thing has 260k on it I'm not shocked if it needs replacement.
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Nov 10, 2013 17:18
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Shifty Pony posted:Nah, the glow plugs are new-ish and measure good, the glow plug relay tests good, and the batteries are both less than a year old and kept on a tender so they are fully charged. The more I look at other people who reported similar trouble the more it points to the starter just lacking the oomph to quickly get the engine spinning fast enough to get the (slightly more viscous) oil pressure high enough to trigger the ECU to fire the injectors. Once an injector fires the engine instantly fires up. This has been a gradually worsening problem for the truck over the last three years or so and I've noticed that it cranks noticeably slow compared to other 7.3s even in the summer, just I think the higher viscosity of the colder oil pushes it over the edge. We aren't talking cold-cold here: 45-50 degree nights and it becomes an issue. This was at about -5*c, or about 23*f. Granted it's under 120k miles, and has about 5500 hours on it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rl2JdidR-Uc
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Nov 10, 2013 17:31
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Shifty Pony posted:Considering the starter is original and the thing has 260k on it I'm not shocked if it needs replacement. Oh......well, yeah. You probably need brushes if it's been around that long.
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Nov 10, 2013 17:32
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Powershift posted:This was at about -5*c, or about 23*f. Granted it's under 120k miles, and has about 5500 hours on it. Yeah the starter doesn't spin the engine anywhere near that fast when cold. The engine is hot right now so I can't give a good video/audio of it. Tuesday night is supposed to get down to the upper 30s though so that will be a perfect time to get a recording.
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Nov 10, 2013 18:00
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Sounds like starter to me but it could well be your battery cables or ground cables too.
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Nov 10, 2013 22:30
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Shifty Pony posted:Yeah the starter doesn't spin the engine anywhere near that fast when cold. The engine is hot right now so I can't give a good video/audio of it. Tuesday night is supposed to get down to the upper 30s though so that will be a perfect time to get a recording. The newer starters are so much nicer than the older ones. I swear to god the stock starter weighed 30 pounds.
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Nov 10, 2013 23:07
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Welp, my TDI with Bosio Power Plus 520s is resurrected from the dead after a valve crash. Shes purring like a kitten, new head, new starter, new pistons, new injector nozzles. Sounds great after such a catastrophic failure. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqNzuNh4qfw
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Nov 11, 2013 01:34
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That's one hell of a kitten. What's with the smoke coming from the engine bay? I e-mailed DBW about getting my injectors balanced. I wish I'd sprung for the PP instead of the Sprint 520's, but I also really need to get them balanced. Not sure if I should upgrade or just fix up the Sprints.
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Nov 11, 2013 04:54
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Opensourcepirate posted:That's one hell of a kitten. What's with the smoke coming from the engine bay? Didn't have the downpipe bolted up yet.
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Nov 11, 2013 04:57
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CommieGIR posted:Welp, my TDI with Bosio Power Plus 520s is resurrected from the dead after a valve crash. So, most of a new engine  . No scoring on the cylinder walls?
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Nov 11, 2013 05:58
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EightBit posted:So, most of a new engine No scoring, block was salvageable.
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Nov 11, 2013 14:06
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Saw this, made me think of the thread. Starting up an old Datsun in -34'C / -29f , 761k km / 473k miles odo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omntX9Pb1HE&hd=1
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Nov 11, 2013 17:07
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Sormus posted:Saw this, made me think of the thread. Its the little engine that could!
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Nov 11, 2013 17:09
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In starting videos, here's my truck after a bone-chilling mid 50's night  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EAzKO7PShw and I had actually happened to record the previous start (when the engine was warm) to see if you could hear the starter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vFE1uJ7L-c I let it idle for a bit as I watched the belt to check for anything funny going on there just because, and and on the trickle charger all night after that. The 7.3 makes such a wonderful sound doesn't it?
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Nov 11, 2013 18:31
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It still could be either the starter or the batteries. But since you said the batteries are new-ish I'd guess bad brushes in the starter causing a high amp draw.
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Nov 11, 2013 19:34
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Shifty Pony posted:In starting videos, here's my truck after a bone-chilling mid 50's night Reminds me of my old 6.9 before the starter hung up, and wouldn't stop trying to start and melted the bussbar off the front. Good times.
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Nov 12, 2013 01:37
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InterceptorV8 posted:Reminds me of my old 6.9 before the starter hung up, and wouldn't stop trying to start and melted the bussbar off the front. Good times.  Well that just moved pulling the starter for testing up a few places on the priority list.
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Nov 12, 2013 01:55
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Shifty Pony posted:
I just burned out the starter in the Jetta while cranking it for the first time yesterday, so don't feel bad.
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Nov 12, 2013 02:22
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The starter in my Jetta worked great, up until the point where the wire from the solenoid to the starter completely came apart. I decided to put in a new one for $100 instead of doing a dodgy repair. I know that the starter before that also failed completely one after working fine, but I'm not sure if it was the same issue as I just push started it (actually two nice police officers pushed me!) and drove it to a mechanic. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Nov 12, 2013 |
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Nov 12, 2013 02:27
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My starter is the one thing on my diesel that hasn't exploded yet. I suppose I've just jynxed myself, haven't I. ninja edit: anyone know a place in central mass (or anywhere nearby) that can rebuild injectors for a ~60 year old multifuel? I wouldn't be at all surprised if some of mine are jammed up, one or two were very very difficult to get out of the heads the first time I had it apart, and it's always had a funny miss on a cylinder or two at idle, even before I started freaking out about maybe having a junk rod bearing. The sound could easily be a cylinder not firing right, so I figure I should do the injectors while they're out.
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Nov 12, 2013 02:52
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