|
rotor posted:gonna make all kindsa coffee and poo poo now Sagebrush posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrz-E_QuM3E
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 08:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:49 |
|
|
Cutting with a torch is much, much faster than cutting with a saw, and you can cut stuff on the spot instead of having to drag it over to the saw and get it all fixtured properly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 08:17
|
|
|
For mini lathes, Sherline is where it's at. I use mine all the time. I have the 17 inch model. I have done a number of modifications to it so it is even more functional that it usually is.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 11:22
|
|
|
rotor posted:So i have a french press coffee maker that im sentimentally attached to and it lost this little screw on clampy thing. Minor nitpick but it looks like there was a lot of chatter when cutting the bottom of the "head" on that nut - if you don't try and cut the entire face at once and instead run a pointy tool (I know the basics of running a lathe, but none of the terms...) from the outside of the head straight in toward the shank it'll make a much cleaner surface. Unless you wanted those ridges for a sort of toothed washer/locknut type effect, that is.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 13:03
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:We actually maintain an oxyhydrogen setup just for welding and flame-polishing plastics, because with the only burn product being water, it doesn't leave any soot behind. We use bottled gas, though, not an electrolyis setup. It's a pretty hot flame and will weld/cut thin steel just fine. I don't know that you'd want to, what with hydrogen embrittlement and all, but I'd guess that as long as you keep it on a neutral or slightly oxidizing flame you'd be okay? I mostly do light non-ferrous stuff, jewellery-calibre welding/brazing and the like, so hydrogen embrittlement ain't no thang. Acetylene's a better pick for me in pretty much every way as it stands, I was just noodlin' around back before I had the tanks and equipment and "you can theoretically build a gas welder all on your own that makes its own fuel" was a lot more novel and attractive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 16:28
|
|
|
kastein posted:Minor nitpick but it looks like there was a lot of chatter when cutting the bottom of the "head" on that nut - if you don't try and cut the entire face at once and instead run a pointy tool (I know the basics of running a lathe, but none of the terms...) from the outside of the head straight in toward the shank it'll make a much cleaner surface. Unless you wanted those ridges for a sort of toothed washer/locknut type effect, that is. He should have done a facing cut with a normal right handed tool instead of what looks to be a boring cut with something large. When you get chatter, increase the feed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 22:01
|
|
|
kastein posted:Minor nitpick but it looks like there was a lot of chatter when cutting the bottom of the "head" on that nut - if you don't try and cut the entire face at once and instead run a pointy tool (I know the basics of running a lathe, but none of the terms...) from the outside of the head straight in toward the shank it'll make a much cleaner surface. quote:Unless you wanted those ridges for a sort of toothed washer/locknut type effect, that is. i uh i mean i did it on purpose
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 03:27
|
|
|
Today I turned an adapter to take a pretty nice face mill (with unused carbide inserts!) I found in the back of a cupboard and mount it on one of the larger CNC tool holders because we're too cheap to just buy another tool holder with the proper geometry. Got it true and accurate to about 5/10,000; that's probably enough for a 6000 RPM maximum spindle speed, right? Seriously I don't know what sort of tolerances I should be shooting for, here. There's no detectable side play measured with a dial indicator and both ends of the adapter spring a bit from the trapped air when you insert them and go "pop" when you remove them so the fit must be pretty good. Regardless, I'm happy that the mill has a door just in case 
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 04:23
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 19:25
|
|
|
Amazing
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 20:40
|
|
|
I feel kinda bad for laughing at that. But not that bad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 07:49
|
|
|
So I got a mig. It's a mig mate 120 and seems ok . Only £40 with a full pub gas bottle. It's missing the reg but I had a hobby bottle to try with . My question is the tip size. I am getting burn back and it's clogging up the tip. I then need to remove the shroud and use pliers to free it. Every time! Can I get a bigger tip to stop this? Or is my other settings causing this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 08:51
|
|
|
I'm not a MIG expert, but maybe your wire feed is too slow for the current setting you have? IIRC you set the current for the material thickness (I feel like I'd heard a rule like 1A per thousandth of material thickness, so 1/8" steel = 0.125 would be 125 amps, but double check that to be sure) and then adjust the wire feed to the proper speed for the current. Thinner wire needs to run faster. Also if the thing is jamming you could try getting a pot of that tip cleaning goo and sticking it in there every so often.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 08:55
|
|
|
Agreed, I set the power level for what I am working with, then fudge the wirefeed till it doesn't burn back or stick out too far and make the gun kick back at me. Sometimes you are just going to have to use thicker wire, too. Standard sizes are 23, 30, 35, and iirc either 40 or 45 thou diameter, I don't know what those are in mm offhand.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 11:56
|
|
|
I got a dumb question. Whats the point of the deep notch in the tip of some kitchen knives. It's not a great picture, but I don't know what search terms to use to find a better one. Also, does that notch have a name? In on topic news, I've rebuilt my forge burner, and got an acetylene regulator hooked up to my propane tank. It's not perfect, but it'll do for now. It now runs much more efficiently and with a more stable flame, thanks to the help I got from you guys. I got the new propane orifice drilled much smaller than before. Being super impatient, I couldn't get a small enough drill bit set quickly enough, so I went with a #60 drill bit, when all the advice you guys gave me, and that I found elsewhere online suggested using between a #70 and a #75. But, it's naturally aspirated now, and once it's heated up, will stay stable and at the right temperature at about 3.5 psi.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2013 01:13
|
|
|
It's a fork for stabbing meat.
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2013 01:53
|
|
|
And the ones with a curve are for cheese!
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2013 06:25
|
|
|
Nonsense, it's an Islamic sleeper scheme to integrate wee little Zulfiqars into daily Western use 
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2013 17:29
|
|
|
I like that our blacksmithing/metalworking/welding thread is the forums' de fact knife thread, too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2013 02:46
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Also if the thing is jamming you could try getting a pot of that tip cleaning goo and sticking it in there every so often. Pro Tip: Save yourself the money and just spray the tip with WD-40, give a good shake once or twice and get welding.
|
|
#
?
Nov 6, 2013 23:39
|
|
|
I recently picked up an apartment-sized lathe (Sherline), and it's been tons of fun. Parting still scares the everloving piss out of me, though. Half because of the noise (I live in a quiet building) and half because it seems to be on the edge of flying apart every time I advance the cross-slide--even with a freshly sharpened tool in aluminum. Mostly I drop it out of the chuck, hacksaw it, and come back to face it. I suspect this is mostly a problem of technique. Probably I need to work closer to the chuck or use the steady. Overall the Sherline is a pretty good system, but not without its faults. One of the motor mount standoffs came to me untapped, but a quick trip to the hardware store fixed that. One of the gibs is far too tight even at the loosest position, but I can fix that with some sandpaper and a surface plate. The three-jaw chuck does not impress me at all. Runout is tolerable (~.001) but there is absolutely no gripping strength. The only stock that hasn't slipped in this chuck is some PVC I tightened to the point of it starting to look triangular. The four-jaw is quite good, on the other hand. Having only one small area (the ways) to stick a magnetic base was fairly frustrating until I screwed an old metal scale into my base. It was a huge relief being able to set an indicator to find my stopping point rather than counting turns on the least convenient dial (leadscrew).
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 20:16
|
|
|
I have a 17 inch Sherline. I love it so much. Get the hand wheels that you can zero out. Makes it way quicker to turn a part to size. I have 3& 4 jaw chuck, threading attachment, riser blocks, quick change tool post +5-6 tool holders, adjustable hand wheels, drill chuck, live and dead centers, carbide bits, follower rest (although I can't use it with the riser blocks, so I don't need it.) Check out sherlinedirect.com if you haven't already. They have monthly specials, and since they ship directly from the SHerline factory, you don't have to pay any markup from other stores. Also, A2Zcnc.com sells a great quick change tool post that is affordable. Something I suggest you make that they don't sell is an adjustable lathe spider. It sits in the spindle so you can have more support when working on a part with little gripping surface. I turned a tube out of steel that fit the spindle bore exactly, and tapped it 1/4-20, then turned a brass disc that is slightly smaller than the chuck bore, and also tapped it 1/4-20. I then put those parts on a 1/4-20 hex screw. To use it, you set the screw to the length you want, and then lock the screw in lace by tightening the disc. Works wonders when I am turning my cufflinks/buttons. The only time I get any slippage is when I am making cuts that are bigger than I should be taking. When parting cut as close to the chuck as you can, and use low RPMs and some coolant. I also ground my parting bit to have an angle towards the chuck so there is less surface area hitting the material at a time. Helped reduce chatter. It also leaves a little cone at the end of the workpiece still in the chuck. Brekelefuw fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Nov 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 21:39
|
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:The only time I get any slippage is when I am making cuts that are bigger than I should be taking. The cutoff tools really should come ground this way. It's suggested in the manual and I did this the first time I needed to sharpen. My work simply isn't being supported well enough, causing my parting issues and probably the 3-jaw slippage as well. There isn't nearly enough contact surface in the 3-jaw and any facing/cutoff operations have an alarming tendency to climb up the tool without additional support. When this happens I have to stop and re-tighten the chuck. I just ran through a piece of 1/2" aluminum close to the chuck (1/4") without any issues, so I at least know what was happening. I started slow, but I needed to speed up as I got closer to the center. Too slow and the chips got stuck in the groove and heavily loaded the motor. One advantage of having infinite speed control for sure.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
When chips are starting to bind, back the tool out and brush them off, or brush while cutting. You don't need to do the cut in a single pass.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 02:37
|
|
|
When you're doing grooving and parting off, increase the feed to reduce chatter (assuming your lathe is up to the task). You can also support the piece with the tailstock for most of the cut, just back it out to finish parting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
Mount your parting tool upside-down and run the spindle backwards so the chips form on the bottom of the cut and fall out of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 20:45
|
|
|
The stock parting tool holder on the Sherline lathes is meant to be run like that, except the parting tool sits behind the workpiece, because the motor doesn't run in reverse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 23:37
|
|
|
The stock holder is not meant to be mounted in reverse. You need a riser block or a custom toolholder to do it effectively.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 23:44
|
|
|
sixide posted:The stock holder is not meant to be mounted in reverse. You need a riser block or a custom toolholder to do it effectively. You're right. My bad.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2013 01:52
|
|
|
Foredom flexshafts are so much better than Dremels it's kinda blowing my mind. Shame I don't have many burrs/accessories or a particular project I need it for right now. It's like, holy moley, where's the precision-killing torque gone off to? I can shape repousse punches with "some degree of control" no problem now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2013 00:47
|
|
|
You aren't kidding, we have a couple of those at work for trimming carbon fiber parts and they are insane. It's like having a dremel built for actually accomplishing something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2013 01:40
|
|
|
I have an oxy acetylene set for mostly cutting but I have a large bale feeder that broke and I made a huge mess trying to get the thin walled metal tubing to come back together. I tried putting a thicker piece of tubing inside to give me more material but that didn't help. is it possible to oxy acetylene thin metal tubing together or is this hopeless? I practiced on some pieces of scrap but they were much thicker and since they were not round I was not fighting gravity so that worked ok pushing a puddle around. The piece I am trying to work just gets holes burned in as soon as it starts melting.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2013 01:43
|
|
|
How thin are we talking here? It's going to be tough, oxyacetylene is real bad for thin material. You cant control or target the heat like you can with an arc, so eventually the whole piece heats up and makes it very hard to work with. MIG would probably be ideal for this, but if acetylene is all you have, you might be able to braze it back together, or just chop off the break and replace that section with a thicker tube.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2013 03:45
|
|
|
Nevermind figured it out and I was overthinking things. I'll post pictures if I get it put together this weekend.
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Nov 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2013 18:09
|
|
|
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-power-tools-South-Bend-Metal-Lathe-W0QQAdIdZ543251277 Welp....my dream lathe is for sale, and I have nowhere to store it. It even has the taper turning attachment, which I need the most of anything on a lathe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-power-tools-South-Bend-Metal-Lathe-W0QQAdIdZ543251277 I'm two hours away in Buffalo and you have to buy that lathe. It is lovely. Puts my 10" atlas to utter shame, although that does have the advantage of going into a basement without disassembly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2013 06:08
|
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-power-tools-South-Bend-Metal-Lathe-W0QQAdIdZ543251277 We have a South Bend just like that and it is excellent. It's worth renting a truck to pick it up. Surely you can move some poo poo out of the laundry room/kitchen/bedroom to make it fit?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2013 06:51
|
|
|
I live in a basement apartment, and I haven't been able to convince my parent's to make space in their garage and let me wire it for 220 successfully.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2013 12:36
|
|
|
Attn: SF Bay Area metalworking people (are there any here?): http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/tls/4192415007.html
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2013 07:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 16:49 |
|
|
Meat Recital posted:How thin are we talking here? It's going to be tough, oxyacetylene is real bad for thin material. You cant control or target the heat like you can with an arc, so eventually the whole piece heats up and makes it very hard to work with. MIG would probably be ideal for this, but if acetylene is all you have, you might be able to braze it back together, or just chop off the break and replace that section with a thicker tube. Oxy-Acetylene is ideal for thin material, the correct size welding tip, correct gas pressure and correct size filler wire it should be easy as. I use it to repair cracked/rusted exhaust parts all the time, and they are pretty thin.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2013 11:31
|
|
