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Thanks! I decided against using a grinder due to the 4mil plastic and foam. I could not being doing this without my brother and two really awesome friends.
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# ? Nov 7, 2013 08:01 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:56 |
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99.9% Sure I am done and ready for inspection- just have to ask my contractor if I also need 3" away from the posts. Otherwise- DONE! Here's hoping this is the last time you see the rebar and foam. Corner detail and possible trimmage around posts mentioned above. Other view. Tie detail. Amazingly enough a Craftsman Professional hose pick was the best tool for tying ever. Edges trimmed. My $25 craigslist portaband saved the night. This thing worked 10x better then the sawzall. I didn't even change the blade, the old 14tpi one I had on it worked like a champ. 108 pieces in all. Welp I am tired as gently caress. Time for bed.
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# ? Nov 7, 2013 08:05 |
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Called in the inspection and double checked with my contractor- we are good for inspection . Wish me luck tomorrow.
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# ? Nov 7, 2013 19:53 |
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Good luck! I hope to be in a similar boat in a couple of years!
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# ? Nov 7, 2013 21:05 |
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the spyder posted:Called in the inspection and double checked with my contractor- we are good for inspection . Wish me luck tomorrow. It's really cool watching this all come together. It's given me a lot to think about as far as building climate-controlled shops...
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 01:14 |
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Today= Godfuckingdamnit. We passed on the rebar, but not the heated floor. Apparently the county's new permitting system is not working with the inspection/reporting system and my mechanical permit for the floor did not show in the inspectors system- the receipt from the permit office was not good enough either. I should have called and asked what to test the floor at, which was my fault. The procedure for our county is to pressurize the system to 100psi for 1 hour and have it be observed. (They check it at the start of the day and come back after the next inspection.) I offered to bump it up to 100psi so he could come back today, but apparently he was done for the day... at 11am. Frustrating, but nothing I can do about it until Tuesday due to the holiday.
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# ? Nov 8, 2013 21:08 |
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the spyder posted:Today= Godfuckingdamnit. Eh. My experience says that every project must have a small handful of things go wrong. Sounds like your wrong things are happening now, rather than later.
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 04:17 |
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the spyder posted:I offered to bump it up to 100psi so he could come back today, but apparently he was done for the day... at 11am. It's not a home improvement without 2 separate trips to Home Depot, or in your case with the shop, 2 trips from the inspector. Don't even get me started with the bullshit that inspectors pull. I used to run swimming pools and had one shut us down and require a retest in 6 hours but cut out for the day at 8:45am, not to return until the next day.
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# ? Nov 9, 2013 05:01 |
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Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd we passed on all three inspections. Concrete is pending for Tuesday and I'm pumped! I might have to take next week off, haha.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 05:34 |
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Not thread related at all: Who likes chainsaws? Bought a Stihl MS361 24" tonight to take care of some firewood logs I bought this weekend. 025 16", MS260 20", MS361 24"
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 06:54 |
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So uh...three chainsaws huh? I bet there's not much of a homeless problem in your neck of the woods.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 07:05 |
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My neighbor is a professional tree trimmer and... feller? Anyways, he showed med the trunk of his work van and I counted five or six Stihls. A chainsaw is, apparently, not just a chainsaw.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 07:18 |
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Rhyno posted:So uh...three chainsaws huh? Chainsaws are crap for cutting up people, all the hair and poo poo gets stuck and gums up the chain.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 08:56 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Chainsaws are crap for cutting up people, all the hair and poo poo gets stuck and gums up the chain. Cordless sawzalls truly are the best things. You can get long blades for them and everything.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 10:41 |
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Raluek posted:Cordless sawzalls truly are the best things. You can get long blades for them and everything. Just dont forget to bleed them out first. Also could someone link me the aeka thread with the wiring harness that would be amazeballs.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 12:41 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Chainsaws are crap for cutting up people, all the hair and poo poo gets stuck and gums up the chain. Leatherface never had any trouble.
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# ? Nov 14, 2013 16:37 |
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Today was interrupted by a massive "Oh cock" phone call. The contractor setup everything for TOMORROW at 8am. Not next week. This meant I had to leave work early and wrap up everything left to do before cement is in. There's not enough time to do the one really cool thing I wanted to do, but that's ok. I don't really need pull points embedded in the floor . Anyways, I took all of our left over rebar and tossed it in a few spots. Mainly the machine area, lifts pads, and doorways. Figured it won't hurt. My brother installed some temp sensors for the slab in the general shop bay area and machine room. Should be interesting to see if they hold up/work, haha. Tomorrow I still have to nail the stakes to the forms and peel up the plastic to blow out the leaves. Sorry neighbors. The current shop looks like this. What a loving mess.
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# ? Nov 15, 2013 07:38 |
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And two months late... we have a floor! The workers and site lead were great to deal with. The entire process ended up taking from 7:30-4pm. Around 10am the concrete was poured and half the workers left. Four stayed behind and worked the slab three times over the next few hours. Due to the weather, they decided to finish by by hand vs machine. I'm not sure what to think of the finish just yet, especially since it is unsealed and will be covered by epoxy. I'm going to wet the slab twice a day for the next week. After that walls can go up. I'm bloody excited! Decided instead of standing around to try out that new saw. I am impressed. Cut like butter. The darn leaves kept getting in the way, our leaf blower fixed that, In person, it's smooth as butter and looks amazing. I can't wait to walk on it tomorrow. the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Nov 16, 2013 |
# ? Nov 16, 2013 01:50 |
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Looks awesome I'm super jealous
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 02:34 |
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This is awesome.
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 03:46 |
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I can smell the drying cement from here and it smells wonderful.
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 05:53 |
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Those FDs look eager to get in there. I would be too.
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 14:12 |
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Hows the 361 drive the 24" bar? Ive got a 25" Bar on a 660 and its just about perfect Im impressed you managed to blow off the leaves with the BR600 without blowing a hole in the wet concrete, considering those suckers will lift bitumen on a hot day!
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 14:38 |
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Just recently saw this thread and spent my saturday morning hangover browsing it. Great work, keep it updated!
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# ? Nov 16, 2013 23:35 |
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Ferremit posted:Hows the 361 drive the 24" bar? Ive got a 25" Bar on a 660 and its just about perfect I was incorrect- it is a 25" bar. The power to weight is *perfect*- it cuts amazingly. I ripped a 4' round of old growth in half 3x faster then I could with my MS260. Funny you mention the blower- they just let it idle, haha. Worked great.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 04:48 |
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Thanks everyone, it's been a heck of a project. I can't wait to get the walls and lifts up.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 04:49 |
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361's are amazing saws. They're my favorite woods carry saws for clearing trails. I use one with a ripping chain for edging out beams when I'm milling too.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 04:57 |
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I just bought a ripping chain for the 28" bar I picked up off ebay. I can't wait to try it.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 05:21 |
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Some day time photos:
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 05:21 |
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So have you estimated what your heating costs will be? What does that system use to heat the slab?
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 06:04 |
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The primary heat sources are: 1) Water heaters 2) Boilers 3) Solar 4) Geothermal A similar system in a colder climate has shown to take $55/m to keep the slab at 55f using a boiler. In our warmer climate and with cheaper electricity, we estimate a standard waterheater will cost around $30/m to keep it at 50-55f. There are just too many factors to properly calculate it. Hopefully we can find some cheap water-solar panels and we will use them ~70% of the time = cheap heated floor.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 06:10 |
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Interesting. I imagine you use a pump(s) to circulate the water, but how do you know how fast to circulate it to be efficient as possible? Is there some sort of thermostat that regulates the pump depending on the temp of the slab?
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 06:18 |
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Most the pumps I have seen operate at a fixed speed. We only need one even with two heat sources, solenoids and temp sensors will control the source and pump power. Initially, it is going to be very simple, just a water heater + pump + expansion tank and a basic controller. Once the building is finished, we can find some used solar hot water panels and integrate those.
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# ? Nov 17, 2013 19:13 |
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I can vouch for the effectiveness of the solar water heaters. My parents live up in the mountains/forest of California, and they use a solar system to heat their pool and hot tub. Most of the time, the solar is able to keep the water in the hot tub well above ambient air temperature, and then they use the heater for the final push when they're going to use it. On hot days, they pipe it away from the pool or the whole thing can end up north of 90*F.
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# ? Nov 18, 2013 16:19 |
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Today the concrete contractors finished up. They removed the stakes from the forms and saw cut the slab. If anyone in the Clackamas County area needs a concrete contractor, check out Dual Force Construction. Tell them Marc referred you. 971-235-1381 I really like the wet look, I think we will go with a clear epoxy sealer. Those DARN LEAVES! Haha, this is the only one I could find. This weekend I am having 30-45 tons of gravel delivered and spread out. For the same price of delivery + skidster rental, my neighbor is going to take care of it all for me. I would rather give him the money anyways . Hopefully saturday I can start framing walls.
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# ? Nov 20, 2013 06:01 |
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Awesome. Framing is so nice because it always makes a space feel that much more real and usable. The concrete really came out looking great too.
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# ? Nov 20, 2013 06:56 |
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Edumacate me; why does the concrete need sawing?
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# ? Nov 20, 2013 07:56 |
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It expands/contracts with temperature, I assume those are expansion gaps. Then again considering he's got heated floors maybe it's just for looks. Huh, looks like it's to allow for shrinkage. How did they do the cuts without cutting through the water pipes? Did you have that laid out with the cuts in mind?
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# ? Nov 20, 2013 08:14 |
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Crack control. A crack free floor turns out to be all about the substrate underneath it and how well it was prep'd. If it is improperly compacted, the concrete will crack. Rebar is mainly used to control the cracks and provide a minimal amount of re-inforcement. Saw cuts help control the cracks by giving the concrete a score mark. Like cutting tile or glass, you score then snap. Though with this much rebar, this floor is never cracking, haha. We went kinda* ok, ok-really overkill on the rebar.
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# ? Nov 20, 2013 08:20 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:56 |
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I'd be incredibly nervous cutting into a slab with radiant tubes in it, but I assume they tied em down and kept the saw far enough up to not hit them. Doesn't take much of a saw cut to put a sufficient stress riser in the slab, either. I am insanely jealous, I need to win the lottery and build something like this. I suppose it might help if I ever bought tickets.
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# ? Nov 23, 2013 01:00 |