|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:How is the grade around the house? The grade isn't great. There is a gradual slope towards the house from back to front, but there isn't a big trench at the foundation that would capture water. The gutter work great. Water is moved away from the house where possible (mostly via gutters). I don't know what a rain garden is. E: Probably not. I don't know what drylok is. E: The Behr paint I used is the same stuff Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Oct 28, 2013 |
#
?
Oct 28, 2013 18:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 13:31 |
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I don't know what drylok is. E: The Behr paint I used is the same stuff Google dryloc. It's hydraulic cement, not paint. Also, do your gutters discharge within 3 or 4 feet of the house? If so, GET THEM FURTHER AWAY. It's amazing how much of a difference this can make in most cases.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2013 19:02
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Google dryloc. "It's hydraulic cement, not paint." Oops... The gutters on one side feed down the driveway and on the other side feed 3 feet away from the house down a slope that leads away from the house.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2013 19:50
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Oxygen barrier PEX is still 180 degrees, it's just made for closed loop systems. If his radiators are steam it's a no-go, but some are (or have been converted to) more traditional hydronic heat. The problem there is stil that some of that stuff is run at about 180-185 so you're pushing the design limits of the PEX. Unless you have a long loop you need to run it hot to get enough temperature differential for the small radiating surface to actually heat the room. This is unlikely to be the case with just radiators, but can be with a well designed baseboard setup. If he has steam then pex won't work since you can't grade it. If you have a flat spot in the line then the steam will flash the water and cause an explosion.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 06:34
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If he has steam then pex won't work since you can't grade it. If you have a flat spot in the line then the steam will flash the water and cause an explosion. PEX won't work with steam because it will melt, not because of grading. Steam isn't particularly sensitive about grading either. I think what you are referring to (explosion) is actually water hammer, but that is for the most part controlled by steam trapping.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 12:14
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:"It's hydraulic cement, not paint." Oops... You must do all of these things: Move gutter discharge to 6 ft. Fix the grade. People skip this most crucial step. And finally you will need to strip off any paint you can and then apply drylok.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 14:58
|
|
|
The issue still exists that the water will seep up through the slab and I can't drylok the underside of the slab, so should I install the weeping tile and sump or how else can I tackle this problem of moving water away from my foundation?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 15:37
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:The issue still exists that the water will seep up through the slab and I can't drylok the underside of the slab, so should I install the weeping tile and sump or how else can I tackle this problem of moving water away from my foundation? If you move the water further away from your house, then it most likely won't come up through the slab in the first place. Do the easy steps first before you go chopping up your slab.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:The issue still exists that the water will seep up through the slab and I can't drylok the underside of the slab, so should I install the weeping tile and sump or how else can I tackle this problem of moving water away from my foundation? When you correct the drainage around the house you will have less water going into your foundation and basement floor. Keep the water away from your house in the first place. Around here if there is still an issue after correcting drainage a sump pit/pump would be installed in the basement to remove the water before it makes its way inside.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 16:14
|
|
|
I am going to have to take some pictures to help show how the water is diverted because everyone seems hung up on it and I still assert that it isn't the main issue.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 18:00
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I am going to have to take some pictures to help show how the water is diverted because everyone seems hung up on it and I still assert that it isn't the main issue. We're "hung up on it" because that's the proper way to begin fixing your problem. You can trust us, you're not the first goon with a leaky basement and you won't be the last. My own basement leaked like yours, and you know what stopped it? Fixing the grading at directing the downspouts away further. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Oct 29, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 18:10
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:We're "hung up on it" because that's the proper way to begin fixing your problem. You can trust us, you're not the first goon with a leaky basement and you won't be the last. Or he can not trust us, spend a bunch of time and money on hydraulic cement wich will work for a while and then the basement wall will start cracking because there's too much static water pressure outside that's not being relieved because of the lack of a sump pit and constant soaking from the gutters. But, hey....what do we know?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 18:14
|
|
|
What you don't know is the lay out of the property and the house. The numbers are the down spouts: 1. Feeds onto the concrete driveway and the water gets nowhere near the house 2. Feeds onto the concrete driveway and the water gets nowhere near the house 3. Extends 3 feet from house then into a pan that carries the water down a hill and into the gully between the two properties. 4. Extends 3 feet from house down a hill and into the gully between the two properties. The issue is the water is getting in at the back of the house where none of the down spouts are (pictured as the blue spots). The whole property has a very gentle slope from North to South (The house faces South).
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 18:37
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:What you don't know is the lay out of the property and the house. You said in a previous post that the backyard slopes toward the house. Has this been corrected? The yard should slope away from the house in all directions for as far as possible. If that has been corrected I would install a sump pit before excavating the foundation and see how much that helps. If your entire backyard is draining water toward your house it might not keep up during heavy rains.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 18:56
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:You said in a previous post that the backyard slopes toward the house. Has this been corrected? The yard should slope away from the house in all directions for as far as possible. If that has been corrected I would install a sump pit before excavating the foundation and see how much that helps. If your entire backyard is draining water toward your house it might not keep up during heavy rains. I didn't mean to say that the ground around the house sloped towards the foundation, but rather I meant to say that the entire property has a slow slope from high ground to lower ground, from back to front. I honestly have no idea how I could correct the grade of the yard without just making a berm near the house to divert the water, and that isn't happening. I think I will just take a bunch of pictures when I get home and hopefully it will help explain what I am dealing with better than I can in words.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 19:17
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:I honestly have no idea how I could correct the grade of the yard without just making a berm near the house to divert the water, and that isn't happening. By machine grading. A tracked bobcat will do it, followed by hand raking and replanting grass. Also, "berms near the house" are typically called "landscape beds" and are often used for more than just looks. Also, if you are putting that much hydraulic pressure on a wall (an entire yard draining into it) slathering it with hydraulic cement is the best way to end up cracking it inside of a couple years. Then you have water AND structural issues to deal with. So don't do that. You need to correct the grading.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 20:26
|
|
|
Have you gone outside in heavy rain? You might see that when the system is stressed it doesn't drain the same. I have used this trick a few times and saw gutter overflow where there was no window to see and water draining away but also coming down the back of drain pipe pooling at foundation.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
XmasGiftFromWife posted:Have you gone outside in heavy rain? You might see that when the system is stressed it doesn't drain the same. I have used this trick a few times and saw gutter overflow where there was no window to see and water draining away but also coming down the back of drain pipe pooling at foundation. I have not seen the water during a storm. We seem to have the poo poo luck to be away or sleeping when the real down pours occur.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 22:04
|
|
|
Pictures e:*snip* Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Nov 2, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2013 23:47
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:
kid sinister posted:We're "hung up on it" because that's the proper way to begin fixing your problem. You can trust us, you're not the first goon with a leaky basement and you won't be the last. My own basement leaked like yours, and you know what stopped it? Fixing the grading at directing the downspouts away further.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2013 00:25
|
|
|
So, as previously suspected and stated your downspouts aren't properly directed. In addition you seem to have a gigantic problem on the east side, likely over your property line (if that yellow tape is the line). So again......1.) downspouts 2.) grading. I'm not sure why you think the downspouts are OK or at least 6 feet away from the foundation. Just as a random sampling, the "west side" one doesn't even make it to the driveway. It's spilling into dirt up against the foundation. The others all have similar issues. Just because the one on the northeast corner goes under a fence across your property line doesn't mean the water isn't making it's way back. It's water: not a stray dog you don't want getting into your back yard. I'm not saying it will be simple to correct as your lot is microscopic, but all of it can be corrected with proper trenching, redirection and primarily grading. You're really being screwed by whatever the hell is going on in that canker sore of a lot next to you. If all yo'ure interested in is a quick fix there isn't one. But plenty of companies and contractors will be happy to take your money to try. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Oct 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2013 01:20
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:PEX won't work with steam because it will melt, not because of grading. Steam isn't particularly sensitive about grading either. I think what you are referring to (explosion) is actually water hammer, but that is for the most part controlled by steam trapping. Ya steam is important on graded lines. It prevents water from getting trapped in the line. If water condescend and flashed it could explode. Water expands 10 times when flashed to steam. But I will agree the pex would melt long before it came up to temp. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Oct 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2013 05:54
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya steam is important on graded lines. It prevents water from getting trapped in the line. If water condescend and flashed it could explode. Water expands 10 times when flashed to steam. But I will agree the pex would melt long before it came up to temp. Some steam is pretty much always condensing in a heating system. The condensate is removed as soon as it is formed by the steam traps. The pressure in the system will help the condensate flow to the next trap if the lines are not graded correctly. The issue you are describing typically occurs on startup of a cold system where condensate has flooded a steam line, then water hammer occurs as the steam is condensed on contact with the cool condensate forming low pressure pockets in the line, and subsequent banging. If the hammer is extreme enough it can rupture lines but no explosion occurs. Very important to warm up a system slowly. Water expands to approx 1600 times its volume when flashed into steam! That's what makes boiler failures so freaking dangerous. E: All that said, proper sloping of lines definately helps everything along and should not be ignored if room is available. sirr0bin fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Oct 30, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2013 12:31
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:Some steam is pretty much always condensing in a heating system. The condensate is removed as soon as it is formed by the steam traps. The pressure in the system will help the condensate flow to the next trap if the lines are not graded correctly. The issue you are describing typically occurs on startup of a cold system where condensate has flooded a steam line, then water hammer occurs as the steam is condensed on contact with the cool condensate forming low pressure pockets in the line, and subsequent banging. If the hammer is extreme enough it can rupture lines but no explosion occurs. Very important to warm up a system slowly. Water expands to approx 1600 times its volume when flashed into steam! That's what makes boiler failures so freaking dangerous. And what is your history with steam boilers? I've never met someone who said grading the condensate line to a steam trap wasn't to important. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Oct 31, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2013 05:50
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:And what is your history with steam boilers? I've never met someone who said grading the condensate line to a steam trap wasn't to important. I operate three steam heating plants. More lines have negative slopes than positive slopes and we get by just fine. In the small plant (22hp) there is actually a 3' rise the condensate has to make to get into the condensate tank and it does it with no pumps. If I had been installing the system I would have sloped the lines but it all makes it back with minimal issue. Just have to warm the system up slowly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2013 16:47
|
|
|
sirr0bin posted:I operate three steam heating plants. More lines have negative slopes than positive slopes and we get by just fine. In the small plant (22hp) there is actually a 3' rise the condensate has to make to get into the condensate tank and it does it with no pumps. That's interesting I guess you have to work with what you have.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2013 05:23
|
|
|
Any significant difference between range hoods that have two filters that cover the entire underside of the hood vs. "regular" range hoods that have an 8" x 10" (or thereabouts) filter? Guess I'm thinking about having to clean those filters and if there's no big difference in their ability to suck grease/cooking smells then I'll get the regular one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 16:19
|
|
|
You won't have to change the massive filter as often, also you can run a quieter fan if it's not sucking through the tiny hole.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 22:45
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:You won't have to change the massive filter as often, also you can run a quieter fan if it's not sucking through the tiny hole. Thanks Cakefool. Makes sense. I'd like to see a side-by-side comparison with the same fans to see how the suckage compares.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2013 23:04
|
|
|
Guy at work asked me if I know what this fitting is. I've never seen one, but thats not saying much since I'm not a plumber and have only worked on my property. Line going up/down (B) is to the toilet and is a hot water line. The other line disappears into the floor joists and he has no idea where it goes. He has not moved what appears to be the valve handle because it is stuck and is afraid of breaking it and would very much like not to put his only toilet out of commision. Anyone ever seen one of these?  
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 14:40
|
|
|
Farside posted:Guy at work asked me if I know what this fitting is. I've never seen one, but thats not saying much since I'm not a plumber and have only worked on my property. The A line goes to cold water. It's called a "toilet tempering valve" and is nothing more than a mixing valve for adding some hot water to the toilet to prevent the tank and bowl from sweating in the summer. You don't see those too much anymore as most people have central AC so that type of sweating is not really an issue because the air is being dehumidified and isn't enough of a temperature difference to sweat anyway. But if you did need it you simply adjust the thing until the water coming out has enough hot mixed in to make your cold water room temperature.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 16:33
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The A line goes to cold water. It's called a "toilet tempering valve" and is nothing more than a mixing valve for adding some hot water to the toilet to prevent the tank and bowl from sweating in the summer. You don't see those too much anymore as most people have central AC so that type of sweating is not really an issue because the air is being dehumidified and isn't enough of a temperature difference to sweat anyway. But if you did need it you simply adjust the thing until the water coming out has enough hot mixed in to make your cold water room temperature. Thanks for the info. It's much appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2013 18:22
|
|
|
Every so often - once, maybe twice a day (and more if we're running water for dishes, laundry, etc.) - our water heater makes a click noise followed by a loud rumbling above it. Those clicks are fairly common, I think, and I've read that the rumbling is caused by steam produced by sediment buildup in the tank. What I'm wondering is whether the rumbling is dangerous. It seems that it's gotten worse (slightly longer and definitely louder) over the past month or so.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2013 03:04
|
|
|
Hey everybody, I've just installed a new sink (replaced a single drain sink with a two drain sink) and am trying to get the drain and disposal plumbed correctly, but I've come across a bit of an issue. I'd appreciate some input and advice. My experience with plumbing is pretty limited, but I have replaced one old, single drain system with ABS piping before. The problem I'm facing is that the disposal waste elbow is low enough that connecting to a normal p-trap results in the p-trap waste outflow being lower than the waste arm in the wall. I thought I could just extend the p-trap outflow vertically with some fittings, but once I dry fit the pipes I realized it would cause a lot of water buildup in all the pipes. Pictures below. None of these pipes have been glued together.   Some options I've been considering: There is a 2" waste arm (correct term?) in the wall that would be low enough for a setup similar to the one I have pictured to work, but I have no idea if it is a working drain. I imagine if it works I could use an adapter 2" to 1 1/2" adapter and connect my drain there, but I don't know how I can determine if the drain is in working order. Another thing I was thinking about is some way to connect the disposal waste connection horizontally to a 1 1/2" ABS pipe. I couldn't figure out whether or not a trap adapter would work horizontally, but intuition says it wouldn't. Perhaps it would? Are there other options I'm not aware of? Google wasn't very helpful here. Another option I'd prefer to avoid would be to get a new disposal that is shorter so I can fit the p-trap higher. I'm about 1.5 - 2" too low based on current setup. Thanks in advance for any insight or advice. Edit: Problem solved with a p-trap and a Continuous Waste End Outlets simliar to this one http://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Waste-End-Outlet-16/dp/B000M2UKIS I definitely should have just used one of these to begin with, but I wanted to use ABS for some reason. Zeus fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2013 03:21
|
|
|
Cup of Hemlock posted:Every so often - once, maybe twice a day (and more if we're running water for dishes, laundry, etc.) - our water heater makes a click noise followed by a loud rumbling above it. Those clicks are fairly common, I think, and I've read that the rumbling is caused by steam produced by sediment buildup in the tank. What I'm wondering is whether the rumbling is dangerous. It seems that it's gotten worse (slightly longer and definitely louder) over the past month or so. When is the last time you flushed it? It's a simple as opening up the bottom drain and letting the crap run out. You should be doing this on a regular basis (as least annually, if not twice annually). If you don't do this, everything in the tank gets nasty. Your heating elements may just be that far gone (in a typical water heater they are also sacrificial anodes). So how long as that heater been there and when is the last time anything was done to it, if ever?
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2013 04:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:When is the last time you flushed it? It's a simple as opening up the bottom drain and letting the crap run out. You should be doing this on a regular basis (as least annually, if not twice annually). I thought that would be the answer. The heater has been there a little over two years, and has never been flushed. The apartment complex is poorly designed, and there really isn't a good way to drain it without running like a 20-foot hose outside the building. (Also, doing this would involve shutting off water to the whole complex.) But I wonder if there is any way to tell whether this rumbling originates from the heater sediment, or if there is sediment buildup in an overhead pipe, or if a pipe has come loose. Christe Eleison fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Nov 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2013 06:30
|
|
|
Hi plumbing goons. I currently need to shut the water off to an outside tap for the winter, however the current gate valve is completely seized (even with the help of a wrench). My plan for the time being is to cut the pipe and install a sharkbite endcap. Ill end up having to cut out the old valve and install a new one sometime before the spring. So my questions; Have you used sharkbite fittings? what are your thoughts on them? Ive read mixed reviews, but most of them are positive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2013 00:29
|
|
|
If you don't know how to solder pipe, a sharkbite is better than you trying to learn while in a wall.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2013 01:01
|
|
|
IGotNothing posted:Hi plumbing goons. Sharkbite fittings are great, the only part that isn't great is the price. They are perfect for your application.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2013 16:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 13:31 |
|
|
IGotNothing posted:Hi plumbing goons. I can't quite tell how much room you have. Have you tried squeezing in a cheater bar? Sometimes that first 1/4 is all that matters.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2013 17:02
|
|