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Eight pins? Uhm...you'll have to talk to someone else. That sounds more like a rotary encoder to me. Even a regular pot with an on-off switch shouldn't need more than five.
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Nov 10, 2013 19:41
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Sagebrush posted:Eight pins? Uhm...you'll have to talk to someone else. That sounds more like a rotary encoder to me. Even a regular pot with an on-off switch shouldn't need more than five. Dual-ganged, probably. It is a headphones amp, after all.
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Nov 10, 2013 19:59
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sixide posted:Dual-ganged, probably. It is a headphones amp, after all. Yeah, 3 + 3 + 2. With a multimeter, it should be easy to identify the sets; two pairs of three have resistance between them, and two have nothing/infinite based on the switch. From there it should be pretty easy. With the pots, as other people mentioned, you can just swap the outer pins later if they are backwards and trial and error shouldn't hurt anything.
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Nov 10, 2013 20:42
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Delta-Wye posted:two pairs of three 
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Nov 10, 2013 21:01
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Two sets of three. Thanks buddy! Although rereading the posts, I answered the wrong question anyways so whatever
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Nov 11, 2013 01:07
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Somebody ended up posting an MSpaint diagram they made for the pot from like seven years ago. Score! Of course I'm a loving idiot and the "flux" I bought from Amazon when I searched for "soldering flux" was zinc chloride (WITH REVIEWERS RAVING ABOUT IT FOR ELECTRONICS).  Naturally I'm confident that this is the reason there is popping when turning on and a constant hiss no matter the volume knob position since it's conductive and now my board look corroded as gently caress and I can't figure out any other reason other than bad grounds at this point. Still, it fired up first try so I'm pumped nonetheless.  I got rid of a lot of loving dumb mistakes before working on a really big project so I'm stoked. 
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Nov 12, 2013 01:17
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Where can I order this switch KCD1-104 in the states? I'm trying to buy the illuminated rocker switch portion of this assembly but I can't find the switch on Mouser, Digikey, or the like using either the model number or trying to narrow down on spec. Basically I need a handful of these switches but don't want to buy a lot of the assembly.
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Nov 13, 2013 01:30
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I'd recommend ECIA Authorized which indexes other distributors. Digikey's Digikey. But nothing's coming up for that exact part number on there and I'm not sure why. Perhaps you can search with more knowledge of the problem and come up with something.
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Nov 13, 2013 01:36
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How about this switch on DigiKey? It seems to match the specs and dimensions of the one you listed.
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Nov 13, 2013 02:04
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What would you guys recommend for standoffs and machine screws for circuit boards? What lengths? I'm gonna be tapping my heat sinks M3x0.5 and would like to keep the sizes all homogeneous. Also: Soldering pliers-style heatsinks. Necessary? Good to have? No need?
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Nov 13, 2013 19:55
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I am working on a project and have run into the limits of my abilities as far as programming devices go. The project is an Angle of attack indicator for experimental aircraft. So far I have a working display system using an 8 led array and an ardweeny. Where I am running into trouble is the angle of attack encoder. I would like to use analog sensors so that I can keep a simple 0-5 volt analog input into the display board and be able to use different sensors for different aircraft. Higher speed aircraft can use a Differential pressure sensor with a specially machined probe. For lower speed aircraft I would like to use a vane type probe with a rotary encoder. I have found these magnetic rotary encoders and they look like the cats rear end for this application but I am not sure how to actually set the range? http://www.ams.com/eng/Products/Position-Sensors/Rotary-Magnetic-Position-Sensors/AS5162 I only need around 30 degrees so that makes for a rather small output range if I use the default 360 span. If anyone can give some insight it would be great.
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Nov 13, 2013 22:25
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Do you have any microcontrollers with programmers or anything that can use USART?
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Nov 13, 2013 22:53
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I have a few arduino's I have an ASP programmer and a USB to 1-wire adapter. If anyone has any other ideas for precise low friction rotation encoding let me know as well. I might just try out a magnet and a non latching hall effect sensor to see if it gives me the linearity required. helno fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 23:14
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If you are just looking for the angle of attack why not use an accelerometer or, even better, an imu? Your results would be far more accurate, you'd have extra data to use if you wanted, and you could precisely set your output voltages for your gauges.
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Nov 13, 2013 23:27
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Not sure how I would use one of those in this application. I need to know the angle that the wind is hitting the aircraft regardless of aircraft orientation. I suppose I could use two of them and have one fixed to the airframe and another on a floating vane and calculate the difference. Using a differential pressure sensor actually cannot measure true AOA because the ram pressure changes with airspeed so the faster you go the less apparent angle is indicated. This is negligible for typical light planes and can be corrected with additional hardware. That magnetic rotary encoder seems ideal because I can just glue a bearing to the back side of the PCB and mount the vane with a small magnet at the end of the shaft. Edit: Does anyone from Canada have experience getting boards through Oshpark.com? helno fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 23:35
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helno posted:Edit: Does anyone from Canada have experience getting boards through Oshpark.com? Yeah, what do you want to know? And read up on UART communication with Arduino, the datasheet for your part does a really good job telling you how to do the one-time programming. Starting on page 19.
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Nov 13, 2013 23:41
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Is shipping an issue to Canada? Looks like I have a lot of learning to do in respect to programming this chip. I have read that data sheet but I don't have enough of a basic understanding of it to actually know what to send. The programming instructions on Page 32 might as well be Greek. I'm starting to think that it might be considerably less work to just use a conventional hall effect sensor rather than trying to reduce the output range of this AS5162.
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Nov 14, 2013 00:28
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Actually I just double checked and iTead Studio was marginally cheaper for what I needed. Shipping should be fine, expensive, but everything was up front. IIf you look up example commands and tutorials for UART, it's the same principle. You send bytes that get stored in RAM registers. That list of what you need to do looks daunting, but step by step it's not so bad: code:1k resistor on OUT pin to 5v 5v on VDD pin wait send a command (send synch byte, address byte, then two date bytes) send the same command again to check (synch, then the address byte includes a read instead of a write(fig. 16)) burn that data to the permanent fuse And so on. It looks like it's pretty easy to fuse bits so that you can't reprogram them, so the cost of fuckups might be an issue. Basically it's a cool looking sensor with a learning curve. It's up to you to decide to learn it, but it'll make you a better person.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:15
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ante posted:send a command (send synch byte, address byte, then two date bytes) That is where I am out of my element. I think I'll order a couple to play with as they are only a few dollars maybe I can get a few samples. Ironically the digital output versions completely eliminate this complexity but make it so that I cannot use other sensors. I take it I just have to manually code the content of the bytes bit by bit and then send them using the serial write command?
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Nov 14, 2013 03:36
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You should be able to run multiple digital sensors on a single arduino. I2C allows for multiple devices to share lines as long as they have different addresses and SPI only needs an extra pin for each additional device. Both have arduino libraries available that make using them extremely easy. A couple of the encoders on that site are SPI and the AS5048B is I2C.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:04
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Yeah but the idea is to have a common display board that simply takes and analog voltage and does its thing. I don't want to have to change the code or board to support different inputs. By doing this you can adjust the display with just a zero and span pot that can be adjusted easily in flight without the need to gently caress around with laptops and what not. I just want to use a vane type probe rather than differential pressure because my plane is to slow to use differential pressure.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:19
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helno posted:Yeah but the idea is to have a common display board that simply takes and analog voltage and does its thing. I don't want to have to change the code or board to support different inputs. So... The easy way, if you were to ask me, would be to do it the way Belite is doing it, and use a hall effect sensor on your vane. Hall effect sensors can give a linear output in volts that the arduino should be able to handle fairly well. The accuracy of the mount will be paramount though. There are flexible resistors on adafruit, that could be used. I don't know about how they drift with temperature though. since there's no sliding component, I think the wear issue would be less likely to be a problem. You'd get some electrical noise from vibration though... I'd also look into using a LED, a tapered aperture, and a photo-resistor. That would be fairly easy to calibrate, but somewhat less compact than the hall sensor. The final option I can think of, is to use a quadrature printed bit of plastic, and two or three led gates to determine the position of your AOA vane.
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Nov 14, 2013 16:31
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Thanks for telling me about that meta-search site Jawn. TheLastManStanding posted:How about this switch on DigiKey? It seems to match the specs and dimensions of the one you listed. Awesome, thank you. I guess I was just being a derp searching for it.
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Nov 15, 2013 02:59
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Since DigiKey was just mentioned, that reminds me: This greasemonkey script, which was recently improved but was previously featured on HackADay is pretty freaking awesome. It allows you to use check-boxes to find everything that encompasses specific values within ranges, makes everything prettier, and the new version shows the "break even point" so you know whether or not you should go ahead and buy the min for a price break. It's made finding parts for lab-related and personal purchases much easier.
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Nov 15, 2013 06:25
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I'm building a cosmic ray detector out of two geiger tubes stack on top of each other to detect hits from the zenith angle that are strong enough to penetrate both tubes, implying a cosmic ray and not just kitty litter or bananas. I want to use the high voltage generator circuit outlined in the top left of this schematic: BUT, since I will be using two tubes and not just one, I assume this HV circuit will run in to trouble if I try to use that single node to supply two tubes instead of one. For example a detection on one would ground the other. If I want to power two tubes, do I need to rebuild the circuit going all the way back to the 555 timer (two totally separate HV generating circuits) or is there a point where I could split it and power two tubes with no problem? What if I split the node right before the D1 diode?
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Nov 15, 2013 21:09
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You can build two detector circuits (start at D1 and rightward) and then use diodes for an 'or' gate to connect the gm_pulse lines (diodes head to pin 6, then add a large resistor (15K+) to ground).
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Nov 15, 2013 22:21
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TheLastManStanding posted:You can build two detector circuits (start at D1 and rightward) and then use diodes for an 'or' gate to connect the gm_pulse lines (diodes head to pin 6, then add a large resistor (15K+) to ground). Yeah, I recommend this as well---have a diode + capacitor + resistor for each tube, connected at that one transistor's collector. As for the detector part, I agree he needs two detector circuits, but I'm not sure why he'd use a diode OR, since he needs to detect when both of them are triggered simultaneously (well, not really, but close enough for government work). He definitely needs an AND gate. Granted, this technically allows for some tiny number of false positives (caused by an ionization in one tube, followed by an ionization in the 2nd tube while the 1st is still recharging), this isn't an issue unless you're taking your measurements near a radioactive source.
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Nov 16, 2013 02:44
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Pin 6 is an interrupt looking for a falling edge; when the Geiger registers, the transistor turns on, and the pin goes to ground. By using an OR the pin will stay high if only one triggers and will go low only when both trigger. Technically it's a NOR, but the NOT part is taken care of by the IC and the circuit is the OR. Edit: I see you suggested the AND because you're thinking to join them before the transistor. I don't think you can add a diode AND gate since there is a resistor below the base. I was suggesting he join them after (at TP1). TheLastManStanding fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Nov 16, 2013 |
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Nov 16, 2013 04:12
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Is this the thread where I can ask about Tubes and Tube amps?
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Nov 16, 2013 21:54
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Nubile Hillock posted:Is this the thread where I can ask about Tubes and Tube amps? If you have electrical questions, this would definitely be the place. If you have musical questions, I'm pretty sure I remember a tube thread in ML. Or here, we can talk about tubes here. I'll talk about tubes anywhere 
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Nov 16, 2013 22:41
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My questions are decidedly electrical! I've got a pretty good understanding of electrical theory, and I just recently started getting into tubes. I've done a little bit of basic reading, but a book would be spectacular. I've just built my first kit, now I want to build a monoblock out of an amp I've found. Problem is, the tube markings have worn off (and also I have no idea what I'm doing) My camera battery is flat at the moment, but I know for certain I've got 2x 6BA6 C6, 1x 6BE6 H5, 1x 6AT6, 2x 6X4 H1B, and the aforementioned unknown tubes. I've only managed to find two data sheets. Are there any diagrams/schematics for amps I could build with these tubes? Failing that, is there a good primer on designing a simple B Class amp with these parts?
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Nov 16, 2013 22:51
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Nubile Hillock posted:My questions are decidedly electrical! I've got a pretty good understanding of electrical theory, and I just recently started getting into tubes. I've done a little bit of basic reading, but a book would be spectacular. I've just built my first kit, now I want to build a monoblock out of an amp I've found. Problem is, the tube markings have worn off (and also I have no idea what I'm doing) I've only done a bunch of reading out of curiosity and haven't tackled a build - you sound more knowledgeable than I. Ax84 has a bunch of good stuff, check out the theory document for this amp: http://www.ax84.com/p1.html
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Nov 16, 2013 23:37
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I have some questions regarding making custom parts in Eagle CAD that Google is being useless in answering. Basically, I'm trying to make a custom part with >NAME and >VALUE tags on the tName and tValue layers, respectively. In the library editor it looks like this: But on the schematic it looks like this:  Two problems here, (1) The part name always comes up starting with a 'U' when in this case I'd like it to start with an 'R'. How do you set that up? (2) The >VALUE tag is getting populated with the symbol name used by the library editor (R_TH_030 in this case) and when I try to change the value on the schematic I get a message to like "This part has no user-settable values. Do you want to edit it anyway?". This is at odds with the resistor symbols from the standard library where the >VALUE tag exists but is an empty string until you set it. How do I get that default resistor type behavior? Thanks! e: This is Eagle 6.5.0 if that matters.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:57
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PDP-1 posted:I have some questions regarding making custom parts in Eagle CAD that Google is being useless in answering. Basically, I'm trying to make a custom part with >NAME and >VALUE tags on the tName and tValue layers, respectively. In the library editor it looks like this:  Set prefix to R and toggle "value" in the bottom right.
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Nov 17, 2013 02:32
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Exactly the info I needed, I just assumed the settings were going to be on the package/symbol pages instead of the device page. Thanks!
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Nov 17, 2013 03:31
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I've got a question about reading capacitor values. I'm looking at replacing some potentially bad caps on an audio receiver that I got and the instructions I found says to replace all the 100uF capacitors with higher temperature rated ones. Am I right in assuming all the caps marked J3 100 4V are 100uF capacitors? They're all this style capacitor:  Thanks, y'all.
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Nov 17, 2013 17:17
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One more Eagle CAD question - when making a custom library, how do you set it up to group like parts into a folding tab like in the image below? (the *555 and 1X4 groups)
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Nov 17, 2013 19:03
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Frinkahedron posted:I've got a question about reading capacitor values. I'm looking at replacing some potentially bad caps on an audio receiver that I got and the instructions I found says to replace all the 100uF capacitors with higher temperature rated ones. Am I right in assuming all the caps marked Yeah, ideally you want to check the data sheet, but I think those may be Panasonic or Sanyo. Guess first line is JIS temp code Know: second is cap in uF, third is voltage. Pic is a 22uF 16V cap.
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Nov 17, 2013 20:37
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Anyone know if the Rigol DS1052E downgrade 100mhz hack still works? Kind of in the market for a general all-around decent DSO under $500 for hobby use and if I can buy this 50mhz scope and get a free 100mhz "upgrade" I'm down. Any other hobby scopes I should be considering? I haven't really set any hard requirements. I mainly do AVR coding and small circuit design. I guess I'd love something with a logic analyzer built in but MSOs are typically way more expensive, and I can get a separate logic sniffer for like $50 and it'll do protocol decoding, etc.
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Nov 17, 2013 21:13
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Slanderer posted:Yeah, I recommend this as well---have a diode + capacitor + resistor for each tube, connected at that one transistor's collector. Thanks. I'm not going to be using a uC, this is going to go right into my Beaglebone's GPIOs. I'm going to record hits for each tube, and then hits for the two of them together, using 3 GPIOs, one of which will be receiving the output of an AND gate. I figure it's better to do that part in hardware with a cheap gate that I have laying around rather than trust software to time them precisely enough to see a simultaneous incident.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:56
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