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Nintendo Kid
Aug 4, 2011

by Smythe

Bartie posted:

This is probably a long shot, but I have an old (1987-ish) Copam PC-401 that may or may not be working and is in danger of being thrown away. Is there any value in it, or is it possible that a museum would be interested in it? Google turns up surprisingly little about it and it kind of hurts me to see it go. It's loving huge though, and there's nowhere to keep it.

This is pretty much the only image that I've found of one on the net:



I would toss it up on ebay with a starting bid of like $10 and making sure you properly set the weight and handling for shipping costs. Unsurprisingly, the ebay actual cost shipping is going to be high, but the buyer will be paying. You will probably get someone to bite and if you make sure your shipping stuff is set up right you'll be good there to not lose money on it.

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Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

ShaneB posted:

The intel i5 CPUs appear to be able to run with 1333 and 1600mhz RAM. I'm thinking of doing a little upgrade to my desktop and the i5's seem nice. I have 8gb of 1333 and don't necessarily want to drop cash on 1600 unless I have to. Is there some big performance hit from doing this? I don't really get how it can support multiple RAM speeds, but I haven't paid really close attention to hardware in years...
You have a matched pair of DDR3-1333 modules right? That is fine, there will be a small performance hit in some applications but the only time where it will be noticeable is things like data compression that are very sensitive to memory performance, and when playing back HD video with high quality post-processing (probably not something you do unless you are a video quality nerd). If you only have a single 8GB module that will murder performance, since you're cutting memory bandwidth down to 40% of what it should be rather than 80%.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Alereon posted:

You have a matched pair of DDR3-1333 modules right? That is fine, there will be a small performance hit in some applications but the only time where it will be noticeable is things like data compression that are very sensitive to memory performance, and when playing back HD video with high quality post-processing (probably not something you do unless you are a video quality nerd). If you only have a single 8GB module that will murder performance, since you're cutting memory bandwidth down to 40% of what it should be rather than 80%.

Matched pair of DDR3-1333. How does the multiplier x FSB work, though?

I don't watch video on my PC at all, really, I use stuff in my living room for that.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

ShaneB posted:

Matched pair of DDR3-1333. How does the multiplier x FSB work, though?
There's no such thing as an FSB anymore because everything that used to be connected to it is now part of the CPU die. Specifically, the northbridge chipset used to be a separate chip containing the memory controller and AGP/PCI interfaces that connected to the CPU over the FSB. Now there's just the CPU, and the only chipset component left is the southbridge, which provides integrated peripherals like the SATA and USB controllers. The memory controller is built into the CPU, and it has a range of memory ratios to select from so that it can run at any supported memory clockspeed (and beyond).

Alereon fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Nov 11, 2013

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


I actually appear to have 4 sticks of 2GB x PC1333. Is this still AOK?

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

ShaneB posted:

I actually appear to have 4 sticks of 2GB x PC1333. Is this still AOK?
Probably, though you may have issues getting four modules to work together. It'll likely work, but be open for the possibility that you might need to swap out for a new pair of modules if you can only get two to work at a time.

Edit: Good deal! Make sure the system can complete at least one full pass of Memtest86+ without errors.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 12, 2013

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Alereon posted:

Probably, though you may have issues getting four modules to work together. It'll likely work, but be open for the possibility that you might need to swap out for a new pair of modules if you can only get two to work at a time.

They currently are working fine!

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr
I've been having this really weird issue where all most of my physical memory is being flagged as in use by the OS. Like, ill boot up with ~2-3gb being used, out of 16, and I've got another 5GB on a page. At some point or another, it'll hit 14.5~15.5gb and then things go down hill. When the full memory thing happens, its almost as if the page file goes, and I start getting warnings that all of my memory is in use. This only started (or was only noticeable) once I started playing BF4.

I ran memtest and it didn't report anything odd.

Edit, I'm guessing this is the wrong place, though I thought it might be a hardware issue, figured it was worth a shot.

Rawrbomb fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Nov 12, 2013

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Rawrbomb posted:

I've been having this really weird issue where all most of my physical memory is being flagged as in use by the OS. Like, ill boot up with ~2-3gb being used, out of 16, and I've got another 5GB on a page. At some point or another, it'll hit 14.5~15.5gb and then things go down hill. When the full memory thing happens, its almost as if the page file goes, and I start getting warnings that all of my memory is in use. This only started (or was only noticeable) once I started playing BF4.

I ran memtest and it didn't report anything odd.

Edit, I'm guessing this is the wrong place, though I thought it might be a hardware issue, figured it was worth a shot.

If you're anything like me you have a lot of stuff open. Here's a screenshot of my Performance tab in the task manager:


So, I went over to the Processes tab and sorted the list by memory use:


...and as you can see, HWiNFO64 is using way too much memory, so I will check my settings with it or close it and reopen. If I was getting warnings about memory issues I'd definitely check my page file settings, too.


So you need to find out what is using a ton of memory when you start having issues. Are you allowing windows to manage your page file?

e: in my example, I had left logging on for HWINFO and it kept consuming ram over the last few days, I must have turned it on by accident or it was turned on in a recent update.

Rexxed fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Nov 12, 2013

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr
Nothing is, that is the super bizarre part, I thought it was hyper-v doing something stupid, but its not.

Even via resource manager/task manager, there is nothing actually consuming that much memory.

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Rawrbomb posted:

Nothing is, that is the super bizarre part, I thought it was hyper-v doing something stupid, but its not.

Even via resource manager/task manager, there is nothing actually consuming that much memory.

In Windows 7, the default view doesn't show processes from other users, including system services. Try flipping on the show all whatsits button (essentially running task manager as administrator).

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr
I'm on windows 8, sorry for not saying that sooner. I've disabled hyper-v to make sure it wasn't it. It only seems to be happening with BF4.

Esroc
May 31, 2010

Goku would be ashamed of you.
I have a laptop with only two 4GB RAM sticks installed. Yet the OS and the BIOS claims I have 12GB of RAM total. What gives? Is there possibly some hidden or internal RAM on the mobo somewhere that I'm not seeing?

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Esroc posted:

I have a laptop with only two 4GB RAM sticks installed. Yet the OS and the BIOS claims I have 12GB of RAM total. What gives? Is there possibly some hidden or internal RAM on the mobo somewhere that I'm not seeing?

Some laptops, mostly Ultrabooks, do have soldered-on RAM, but they usually only have a single DIMM slot, if they have any at all. What laptop is it?

Esroc
May 31, 2010

Goku would be ashamed of you.

Factory Factory posted:

Some laptops, mostly Ultrabooks, do have soldered-on RAM, but they usually only have a single DIMM slot, if they have any at all. What laptop is it?

An MSI GT683r. It may in fact only have one DIMM slot and thus one 4GB stick, I only glanced at it earlier.

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.

Esroc posted:

An MSI GT683r. It may in fact only have one DIMM slot and thus one 4GB stick, I only glanced at it earlier.

That thing has four DIMM slots and some configs come with 12 GB in two sticks (8 + 4). Pop open HWiNFO or CPU-Z or whatnot and see what it says about your DIMMs.

Esroc
May 31, 2010

Goku would be ashamed of you.

Factory Factory posted:

That thing has four DIMM slots and some configs come with 12 GB in two sticks (8 + 4). Pop open HWiNFO or CPU-Z or whatnot and see what it says about your DIMMs.

Dug it back out and looked inside it again and you're right, there is definitely four DIMM slots but with only one 4GB stick installed. HWiNFO says I've got three 4GB modules total so I'm just going to assume the other two are soldered RAM.

Thanks for helping me figure it out. I'd somehow never heard of soldered RAM, so was kind of confused. Then again, I get confused easily.

PS. Love the cabin
Dec 30, 2011
Bee Lincoln
Lately I've been getting random few second lockups which at first I thought to be CDRom related because it'd start making noise when it happened.
After I took my computer apart today to change the cooler it's become much worse.

In the event viewer there was a tonne of "The IO operation at logical block address 740fe0 for Disk 0 was retried." those in there and it seemed to coincide with the freezes.
I disconnected my 2nd hard drive and now they're fewer and so far only the one above has taken place since boot.

S.M.A.R.T Shows no reallocated sectors either so I don't know what the hell Windows is doing.
I changed the SATA cable once for the main drive which is an SSD.

Quick specs:
i5-4670k
Gigabyte B85M-D3H
Intel 520 128GB SSD
Western Digital 500GB HDD
Windows 8 Pro

When the other drive was installed and it was stuttering like mad the Intel Rapid Storage Technology app was bitching like crazy but didn't give any information.
It'd just report that everything was fine.

Intel's SSD utility shows the drive working perfectly.

Breaking:

quote:

The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk0\DR0.

Now S.M.A.R.T shows the uncorrectable error count at some really high number.
:(

Edit again:
Looks like it's probably the SATA controller, the connectors, or something.
It doesn't like booting my regular HDD now either.

Second HDD working now that I've plugged it into SATA2 port 1.

Edit again:
Plugged the HDD into SATA3 port 1 and the SSD into port 0 and booted into OSX on the HDD.

It's not complaining about any hard errors and this info shows that it hasn't failed.
code:
smartctl 6.1 2013-03-16 r3800 [x86_64-apple-darwin12.3.0] (local build)
Copyright (C) 2002-13, Bruce Allen, Christian Franke, [url]www.smartmontools.org[/url]

=== START OF INFORMATION SECTION ===
Model Family:     Intel 520 Series SSDs
Device Model:     INTEL SSDSC2CW120A3
Serial Number:    CVCV248100T4120BGN
LU WWN Device Id: 5 001517 387ed4cc5
Firmware Version: 400i
User Capacity:    120,034,123,776 bytes [120 GB]
Sector Size:      512 bytes logical/physical
Rotation Rate:    Solid State Device
Device is:        In smartctl database [for details use: -P show]
ATA Version is:   ACS-2 T13/2015-D revision 3
SATA Version is:  SATA 3.0, 6.0 Gb/s (current: 6.0 Gb/s)
Local Time is:    Tue Nov 12 13:23:08 2013 EST
SMART support is: Available - device has SMART capability.
SMART support is: Enabled

=== START OF ENABLE/DISABLE COMMANDS SECTION ===
SMART Enabled.

=== START OF READ SMART DATA SECTION ===
SMART overall-health self-assessment test result: PASSED

General SMART Values:
Offline data collection status:  (0x02)	Offline data collection activity
					was completed without error.
					Auto Offline Data Collection: Disabled.
Self-test execution status:      (   0)	The previous self-test routine completed
					without error or no self-test has ever 
					been run.
Total time to complete Offline 
data collection: 		( 1465) seconds.
Offline data collection
capabilities: 			 (0x7f) SMART execute Offline immediate.
					Auto Offline data collection on/off support.
					Abort Offline collection upon new
					command.
					Offline surface scan supported.
					Self-test supported.
					Conveyance Self-test supported.
					Selective Self-test supported.
SMART capabilities:            (0x0003)	Saves SMART data before entering
					power-saving mode.
					Supports SMART auto save timer.
Error logging capability:        (0x01)	Error logging supported.
					General Purpose Logging supported.
Short self-test routine 
recommended polling time: 	 (   1) minutes.
Extended self-test routine
recommended polling time: 	 (  48) minutes.
Conveyance self-test routine
recommended polling time: 	 (   2) minutes.
SCT capabilities: 	       (0x0021)	SCT Status supported.
					SCT Data Table supported.

SMART Attributes Data Structure revision number: 10
Vendor Specific SMART Attributes with Thresholds:
ID# ATTRIBUTE_NAME          FLAG     VALUE WORST THRESH TYPE      UPDATED  WHEN_FAILED RAW_VALUE
  5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct   0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
  9 Power_On_Hours_and_Msec 0x0032   000   000   000    Old_age   Always       -       899485h+14m+38.740s
 12 Power_Cycle_Count       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       252
170 Available_Reservd_Space 0x0033   100   100   010    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
171 Program_Fail_Count      0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
172 Erase_Fail_Count        0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
174 Unexpect_Power_Loss_Ct  0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       225
184 End-to-End_Error        0x0033   100   100   090    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
187 Uncorrectable_Error_Cnt 0x000f   120   120   050    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
192 Power-Off_Retract_Count 0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       225
225 Host_Writes_32MiB       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       112804
226 Workld_Media_Wear_Indic 0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       65535
227 Workld_Host_Reads_Perc  0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       44
228 Workload_Minutes        0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       65535
232 Available_Reservd_Space 0x0033   100   100   010    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
233 Media_Wearout_Indicator 0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
241 Host_Writes_32MiB       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       112804
242 Host_Reads_32MiB        0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       88902
249 NAND_Writes_1GiB        0x0013   100   100   000    Pre-fail  Always       -       3389

SMART Error Log Version: 0
No Errors Logged

SMART Self-test Log not supported

SMART Selective self-test log data structure revision number 0
Note: revision number not 1 implies that no selective self-test has ever been run
 SPAN  MIN_LBA  MAX_LBA  CURRENT_TEST_STATUS
    1        0        0  Not_testing
    2        0        0  Not_testing
    3        0        0  Not_testing
    4        0        0  Not_testing
    5        0        0  Not_testing
Selective self-test flags (0x0):
  After scanning selected spans, do NOT read-scan remainder of disk.
If Selective self-test is pending on power-up, resume after 0 minute delay.
I'm really conflicted here.
I did change the cable though, but I had previously gone through 3 others.

PS. Love the cabin fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Nov 12, 2013

Ryuga Death
May 14, 2008

There's gotta be one more bell to crack
Fun Shoe
Is CrystalDiskInfo still the best way to check up on your hard drives' health?

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Ryuga Death posted:

Is CrystalDiskInfo still the best way to check up on your hard drives' health?
It's still the easiest solution outside of manufacturer-supplied tools.

Xillah
Nov 29, 2002

I paid $10 to change some guys avatar to an Oblivion Elf with giant tits just to steal this gif
Really short question, sorry if it's in the wrong place. I've just bought a new laptop (windows 8) and I'm trying to connect either a 360 or ps3 controller. I have a wireless adapter for the 360 pad. Struggling to get either to be functional. Been at it for an hour, it's like banging my head against the wall. is there a retards guide around?

Rawrbomb
Mar 11, 2011

rawrrrrr

Xillah posted:

Really short question, sorry if it's in the wrong place. I've just bought a new laptop (windows 8) and I'm trying to connect either a 360 or ps3 controller. I have a wireless adapter for the 360 pad. Struggling to get either to be functional. Been at it for an hour, it's like banging my head against the wall. is there a retards guide around?

Stupid first question, the light on the adaptor is on, right?

If it is, you should be able to press and hold the button on the usb dongle for your 360 controller it'll start blinking to sync with a controller, and then the sync button on your 360 pad.

Xillah
Nov 29, 2002

I paid $10 to change some guys avatar to an Oblivion Elf with giant tits just to steal this gif

Rawrbomb posted:

Stupid first question, the light on the adaptor is on, right?

If it is, you should be able to press and hold the button on the usb dongle for your 360 controller it'll start blinking to sync with a controller, and then the sync button on your 360 pad.
I tried it a few times, it just doesn't synch. Dongle blinks as it should do, the controller does it's fast spinning lights, the dongle stops flashing after a minute, all 4 lights flash on and off slowly as is it's want when there is no connection.

Xillah
Nov 29, 2002

I paid $10 to change some guys avatar to an Oblivion Elf with giant tits just to steal this gif

Xillah posted:

I tried it a few times, it just doesn't synch. Dongle blinks as it should do, the controller does it's fast spinning lights, the dongle stops flashing after a minute, all 4 lights flash on and off slowly as is it's want when there is no connection.

Sorry for the double post, solved this one. The Xbox controller wouldn't work because of a driver issue, the PS3 was weird because I'm a retard.

Thanks anyway.

Twinty Zuleps
May 10, 2008

by R. Guyovich
Lipstick Apathy
Yo. A while back I was advised that a 7 year old Rosewill power supply should be replaced ASAP. I did so. (My new one doesn't have any superfluous red LEDs at all :mad:) Thanks. I now have a question that will hopefully be answered just as simply:



Would sticking a USB hub over the marked area cause a problem? Are those little slots crucial to ventilation? I feel like it couldn't cause a real issue but I also figured that my old power supply continuing to work meant that everything was peachy.

Thanks, goons.

Thoons.

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.
Those are punch-outs for extra expansion ports. Won't be a problem to cover them, since the only reason they exist is to be punched out and plugged up. Your case is ancient to have those.

Twinty Zuleps
May 10, 2008

by R. Guyovich
Lipstick Apathy
Had it since 2003. I keep poo poo til it breaks or you can't plug it into anything anymore, and even then I have to keep it in a box in the closet for a year to make sure it's useless before I toss it.

Thanks for the help.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

Fun Shoe
I personally like sticking the thing on the side of my case or the top near the front for easy access. I've recently upgraded to a powered hub that is stuck the the wall behind my monitor.

londonmoose
Mar 22, 2011
The hard-drive for my laptop is failing and I'm looking towards replacing it. It is a 2.5" SATA Toshiba HDD (i.e. it looks like a fairly generic laptop hard-drive).

My question is: can I replace this with any other make or model of drive that I want, as long as it's also 2.5", or do I have go for the same specific model? I'm only asking as I've got much less experience dealing with laptop components, so I'm not sure if there are any additional considerations to take.

Thanks!

Geemer
Nov 4, 2010



londonmoose posted:

The hard-drive for my laptop is failing and I'm looking towards replacing it. It is a 2.5" SATA Toshiba HDD (i.e. it looks like a fairly generic laptop hard-drive).

My question is: can I replace this with any other make or model of drive that I want, as long as it's also 2.5", or do I have go for the same specific model? I'm only asking as I've got much less experience dealing with laptop components, so I'm not sure if there are any additional considerations to take.

Thanks!

Any 2.5" drive should be fine, but do take note of the height of the drive, some thin laptops only take 7 mm ones. You could also look into getting an SSD for a nice speed boost, as well. There's a megathread with more info here.

Tagra
Apr 7, 2006

If you gaze long into an abyss, the abyss will gaze back into you.


Hey speaking of USB hubs. I recently got a new computer and as such have upgraded to USB 3.0. Is there a recommended 3.0 hub I should look for, or does it not really matter?

londonmoose
Mar 22, 2011

Geemer posted:

Any 2.5" drive should be fine, but do take note of the height of the drive, some thin laptops only take 7 mm ones. You could also look into getting an SSD for a nice speed boost, as well. There's a megathread with more info here.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I don't have a proper ruler to measure the height precisely (as well as terrible eyesight), but it appears to me to be closer to 9.5mm than 7mm, which I'm guessing is standard? It is not a thin laptop, but a fairly chunky one, so I'm assuming it's more likely to be a standard one. I bought this laptop when I was living in Japan for a while, so it's been a bit difficult to find details of the exact specifications; the model number for the hard-drive isn't anything that's listed on the Toshiba website, and comes up with nothing on google.

The laptop is getting close to 3 years old already, and I'm just mostly interested in getting another year or two's worth of use out of it, so I think I'm just going to put in a standard £30-40 drive for now. I'll be upgrading my desktop soon though, and am considering an SSD for the system drive, so thanks for the link.

Geemer
Nov 4, 2010



londonmoose posted:

I don't have a proper ruler to measure the height precisely (as well as terrible eyesight), but it appears to me to be closer to 9.5mm than 7mm, which I'm guessing is standard?

Yeah, that sounds like a standard notebook hard drive. Any 2.5" SATA hard drive should work for you.

If you do end up with a 7mm one, there are little plastic shunts you can use to fill the space available. Or you could fill the gap with some cardboard or other non-conductive material. But if that's necessary depends on how the hard drive cradle in your notebook works.

Arnold of Soissons
Mar 4, 2011

by XyloJW
I have an old laptop hard drive, and when I plug it in via USB to use it I get the error: F:\ is not accessible. Data error (cyclic redundancy check).

1- what does that mean, practically speaking?
2- I don't really care about the data on there, is it possible to at least format it and get some use out of it?

Factory Factory
Mar 19, 2010

This is what
Arcane Velocity was like.
1) Dead drive. Problem exists somewhere between read heads and the computer's memory (e.g. ports, cable, drive's controller, etc.) that causes data to scramble by the time your system tries to read it. If you're REALLY lucky, it's just the cable, and swapping the cable for a new one will fix the problem.

2) Unless swapping the cable works, no, you won't be getting any use of the drive as an external. If you're pretty lucky (lucky but not as much as it just being the cable), you can remove the drive from the enclosure and it will still work fine as an internal drive (or you can buy a new enclosure).

Arnold of Soissons
Mar 4, 2011

by XyloJW

Factory Factory posted:

1) Dead drive. Problem exists somewhere between read heads and the computer's memory (e.g. ports, cable, drive's controller, etc.) that causes data to scramble by the time your system tries to read it. If you're REALLY lucky, it's just the cable, and swapping the cable for a new one will fix the problem.

2) Unless swapping the cable works, no, you won't be getting any use of the drive as an external. If you're pretty lucky (lucky but not as much as it just being the cable), you can remove the drive from the enclosure and it will still work fine as an internal drive (or you can buy a new enclosure).

I did try swapping the drive out and leaving everything else the same and the other drive worked perfectly with the same enclosure and cables, so I guess that settles that.

Thanks!

Mo_Steel
Mar 7, 2008

Let's Clock Into The Sunset Together

Fun Shoe
Hardware short question: Is a burn in test still recommended for new computers that you build yourself? If so, any recommended links to software for just such a process, and for how long?

future ghost
Dec 5, 2005

:byetankie:
Gun Saliva

Mo_Steel posted:

Hardware short question: Is a burn in test still recommended for new computers that you build yourself? If so, any recommended links to software for just such a process, and for how long?
No, this isn't necessary. If you're not overclocking then everything should just work and regular use will reveal any possible hardware issues.

If you're overclocking then you'll probably want to stress-test when you're settling on clocks using a tool like IBT or via a long test with OCCT/Prime95.

Mo_Steel
Mar 7, 2008

Let's Clock Into The Sunset Together

Fun Shoe

BITCOIN MINING RIG posted:

No, this isn't necessary. If you're not overclocking then everything should just work and regular use will reveal any possible hardware issues.

If you're overclocking then you'll probably want to stress-test when you're settling on clocks using a tool like IBT or via a long test with OCCT/Prime95.

Good deal, thanks.

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BIFF!
Jan 4, 2009
I just installed an H100i today and it seems to be working fine. However, the software (Corsair Link 2.4.5110) that's supposed to control the fans and LED doesn't work right. It shows my CPU, GPU, etc. but nothing for the H100i itself. I tried swapping USB headers but that did nothing. Anyone know of a fix for this? I know this is technically a software question but I wasn't sure where to ask this.

E: Well, I just found that apparently Corsair Link doesn't work with Windows 8.1. Nice!

BIFF! fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Nov 19, 2013

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