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wormil posted:Jigsaws aren't really all that useful unless you are cutting curves, not sure why they are often recommended as first tools except maybe the perception they are safer than circular saws. Granted, a circular saw has far more potential for damage but using a jigsaw doesn't prepare you at all for using one. A circular saw can give you a straight, square cut; which is difficult with jigsaws. The thing about the circular saw I don't like is that I can't really see the cut. At least with a jigsaw I can watch the blade the whole time. But the circular you just go and see what you end up with. Of course if you're following a guide it's a bit easier.
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Nov 19, 2013 02:05
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:13 |
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Started whittling, complete with blood loss.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:30
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The blood is how you know you're doing it right.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:54
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wormil posted:Jigsaws aren't really all that useful unless you are cutting curves, not sure why they are often recommended as first tools except maybe the perception they are safer than circular saws. I've never needed to use a jigsaw for a single one of my projects. I have a jigsaw that I bought for $5.00 at a yard sale, and I have used it maybe three times, but I've never NEEDED to use it. Personally, I'd recommend to most new woodworkers to avoid buying one until a project arises that can't possibly be completed without one. Then again, I can't think of such a project as a router can do most anything a jigsaw can, and usually better as well.
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Nov 19, 2013 14:40
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I've found a use for a jigsaw: it's pretty good at cutting drywall! 
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Nov 19, 2013 16:08
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I saw an article once where a guy had a plain table to work on, and on top of that he had a "bench on bench" setup, where he had a small bench clamped to the table, that had a wood vise and dogs and stuff like that on it. Has anyone heard of or seen this setup? I'd like to build something similar since my workbench is pretty lovely, but I can't find it again and I can't find any plans for a similar thing. Bad Munki posted:The blood is how you know you're doing it right. I count the quality of a project by how many band-aids I use. (Well, when free blades are incorporated.)
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Nov 19, 2013 16:32
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QPZIL posted:I saw an article once where a guy had a plain table to work on, and on top of that he had a "bench on bench" setup, where he had a small bench clamped to the table, that had a wood vise and dogs and stuff like that on it. Yes, I have all the hardware for one and I just have to get around to building it. http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/011176038.pdf
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Nov 19, 2013 17:34
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Elston Gunn posted:Yes, I have all the hardware for one and I just have to get around to building it. http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdffree/011176038.pdf Awesome, thanks!
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Nov 19, 2013 17:40
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I use my circular saw way more than my jigsaw but I definitely love both of them equally. For general straight line cutting I agree the circular saw wins the day. Here's an example of what I needed a jigsaw for recently. I needed to cut an 8"x10" hole with curved/rounded edges in a piece of plywood and the jigsaw did it beautifully. If I were a total wood newbie I'd prefer to start with a jigsaw just because it "feels" safer whether that's true or not. It's got that feel that's as close to the feeling you'd get cutting out a random shape in a piece of paper with scissors.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:02
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asdf32 posted:The thing about the circular saw I don't like is that I can't really see the cut. At least with a jigsaw I can watch the blade the whole time. But the circular you just go and see what you end up with. Of course if you're following a guide it's a bit easier. cut left handed and you can watch the blade all day. I have only needed my jigsaw to make two curved cuts for the top of a set of doors and I really suck with a jigsaw.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:46
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I picked up a used Festool Trion jigsaw and really like having it around. For rough work where I'm just eyeballing things with a pencil line it's great. Most recently I used it to cut a bunch of chipboard shelves for my garage, and it was particularly handy for making notches for studs in the unfinished walls. With Bosch fine blades it makes really clean cuts as well.
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Nov 19, 2013 18:58
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Quick question regarding screwing into weird angles/locations. After being VERY creative with my 18v drill and a teeny manual screwdriver (kind that's just a handle where you can insert whatever bit you want, destroyed my wrist) I was able to get some 2.5" screws in. Keep in mind when it comes to handyman stuff I'm a jack of all trades, not really a master of any at the moment but I've been managing and learning as I go. I randomly came upon this right angle attachment for drills and was blown away at this genius invention. The reviews for this particular one says it sucks rear end and strips easily, I was curious if anyone knows of any decent ones or any advice at all on angle stuff like this. http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1302-Drilling-Attachment-Magnetic/dp/B000KICSGQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top I'll tell you what my exact situation was. I was working in the narrow gap between the top of a cabinet and the ceiling, maybe 8ish inches or so. All details aside, I was trying to attach something to the ceiling joist. My drill itself was too big for this gap so I put a bit in the smallest screwdriver I have which has a handle approx 3 inches long. Once I got the screws in far enough (keep in mind I was leaning way over with crappy leverage here, so all together stupid and annoying) I discovered I could put the bit directly into my drill (as in not in the bit adapter dealio) and could BARELY squeeze it in to get them the rest of the way in. This was an awful experience so I'm very interested to hear of any tools or tricks that would have helped me out.
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Nov 19, 2013 21:06
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If you're ok with doing things by hand, Chapman sets are one of those tools that when someone shows you them, you slap your forehead and wonder how you managed to get through life before having them. Plenty of places make cheapo knockoffs that work just fine for limited duty. Failing that, get a 12V right angle driver. Bosch makes a really nice one.
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Nov 19, 2013 22:49
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Im finally getting around to setting up a little shop in my apartment. I'm curious what you guys use for tool sharpening. I found this interesting oil stone set on amazon that's intended for chefs knife sharpening. I'm wondering if it would work just as well for chisels or plane blades. http://www.amazon.com/Norton-IM313-11-5-Sharpening-System/dp/B0001MSA72/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
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Nov 20, 2013 01:03
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pageerror404 posted:Im finally getting around to setting up a little shop in my apartment. I'm curious what you guys use for tool sharpening. I found this interesting oil stone set on amazon that's intended for chefs knife sharpening. I'm wondering if it would work just as well for chisels or plane blades. Overkill imo. I use 3 water stones that cost about $30aud each, after trying scary sharp. Would be better spent getting a good veritas honing guide and water stones I think.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:29
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Frogmanv2 posted:Overkill imo. I use 3 water stones that cost about $30aud each, after trying scary sharp. Would be better spent getting a good veritas honing guide and water stones I think. What brand of stones and what grits?
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Nov 20, 2013 02:02
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pageerror404 posted:What brand of stones and what grits? It doesn't matter that much really. Sharpening can be one of the most divisive and controversial topics in woodworking. Paul Sellers has a few good videos on sharpening and a lot of other good videos on hand tool stuff. Here's one on prepping a chisel, first with sandpaper then with diamond stones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI Here's another showing that 250 or 1000 is plenty sharp enough for most types of woodworking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbAo4RpM7oM There's a few more on sharpening in his Youtube channel. I think he often recommends the EZE-lap diamond stones in coarse, fine and super fine with auto glass cleaner as a lapping fluid.
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Nov 20, 2013 02:46
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pageerror404 posted:What brand of stones and what grits? I have these two water stones: http://amzn.com/B0037MEK54 http://amzn.com/B0037MB0S4 and this honing guide: http://r.ebay.com/2b3QUl I'm thinking of getting a coarse diamond stone to use for flattening and shaping the primary bevel on stuff. Also, I need to buy or make a holder for the water stones that fits in the sink.
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Nov 20, 2013 02:52
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I now use a 240 grit drum sander for sharpening then hone on a piece of sandpaper. Eventually I'll get around to making an 800/1500 drum for honing. The drum sander will do in 10 seconds what may take many minutes by hand. One tip, a padded drum works better. Grinders are another option but I'm no good freehanding with them and the angle guides are generally crap.
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Nov 20, 2013 03:10
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QPZIL posted:I saw an article once where a guy had a plain table to work on, and on top of that he had a "bench on bench" setup, where he had a small bench clamped to the table, that had a wood vise and dogs and stuff like that on it.
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Nov 20, 2013 03:21
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pageerror404 posted:What brand of stones and what grits? One coarse to grind a new bevel if needed, one medium to touch up to an acceptable standard and one fine if I want a really sharp chisel for some delicate work. Brand doesnt really matter, and like everyone says, its really a case of what works for you. I dont like using loud grinders, so unless im touching up turning chisels and I need to do it repeatedly in a short amount of time, I use quieter methods, but a decent grinder with a coarse wheel and a polishing wheel will do the job in a lot shorter amount of time.
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Nov 20, 2013 04:44
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I'd like to join several pieces of MDF together into an irregular polyhedron, with various unusual angles between the pieces. I'd like the outside to be smooth and well-joined, ideally with few or no visible screws, or gaps between pieces. The joins will need to resist some amount of force, but because of how the polyhedron will come together, it's okay if the angles are themselves flexible -- the pieces will support each other. What's a simple, minimal-exotic-woodworking-tools way to accomplish this? My thought was to glue some sort of hinge material to the underside, but I'm not sure how to do that without leaving gaps, and it seems like maybe most hinges are not made of a material that bonds well to wood glue.
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Nov 20, 2013 11:21
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Excuse the terrible MSPaint drawing, but I have a question: Cutting rabbets at the end of a board is pretty straightforward, but I'm trying to cut a sort of... trench... rabbet... thing... as in the following diagram:  It would be a squared-off trench for the walls of a box to sit in/be glued in, but I don't know the proper name for those "trenches". Since they'll be squared off, would it be easiest to use chisels? Or am I overthinking this and there's a technique with a hand router I can use?
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Nov 20, 2013 16:30
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QPZIL posted:Excuse the terrible MSPaint drawing, but I have a question: Weren't you into hand tools and such? Are you talking about a router plane or your everyday electric one? If the latter, and assuming you don't have a router table... You could use a template guide on your router. If the dadoes you want to cut are 1/2" wide then use a 1/2" bit and maybe a 3/4" template guide. You'll need something to run the template guide against. You could cut a scrap piece of material that is 1/4" less wide then the sides of the internal square in your pic and double-sided tape it down in the center of your board or simply use straight pieces that you tape/clamp a 1/8" off from your cut lines. Maybe tape/clamp a couple small straight pieces down on the corners so you don't over shoot them. Run the template guide against your template material and then cleanup the corners with a chisel.
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Nov 20, 2013 17:17
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Sneftel posted:What's a simple, minimal-exotic-woodworking-tools way to accomplish this? The woodworking way would be loose tenons, biscuits, or splines. QPZIL posted:but I don't know the proper name for those "trenches". They are called dadoes. Most would cut them with a router then square the corners with a chisel.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:34
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wormil posted:dadoes YES! I knew I knew the word, I just forgot it, so my googling wasn't working well  And yeah, I am into hand tools since my workshop is tiny and I don't have the money or space for power tools, but I'm still learning what's feasible with hand tools vs. power. Then again, I guess if people have been doing these things for countless years without power tools, there's very little that's NOT feasible...
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Nov 20, 2013 19:09
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wormil posted:The woodworking way would be loose tenons, biscuits, or splines. Technically, a dado only refers to cuts that go across the grain, while a cut that goes with the grain is called a "groove."  But in real life, every one just calls them all dadoes.
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Nov 20, 2013 19:54
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MrPete posted:http://penultimatewoodshop.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/on-benchtop-benches.html has 3 different options to investigate, I quite like the idea of the milkmans bench. Looks like a fun build Perfect! Thanks for that...just send a proposal to build something like this for our workshop.
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Nov 20, 2013 20:32
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QPZIL posted:YES! I knew I knew the word, I just forgot it, so my googling wasn't working well Get good with a chisel then, because you are going to be doing a lot of it. You can get hand planes that will do it as well.
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Nov 21, 2013 02:57
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It would be worth the price of a plow plane to avoid all that chiseling.
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Nov 21, 2013 07:05
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kinda neat: https://americanwoodworker.com/blog...n=AWNL_20131121
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Nov 22, 2013 08:06
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I have another question using my very-limited vocabulary. What's the edge called that's formed by a cross-cut? The edge here, perpendicular to the grain:  What's the easiest way to plane that edge if it's not square or true? When I try to plane that edge I just get a lot of mess and chips and ugliness. Should I just be sanding it down?
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Nov 22, 2013 15:23
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QPZIL posted:I have another question using my very-limited vocabulary. It's called end-grain. That is exactly what a shooting board is made for. You need a very sharp plane, taking light cuts, with the mouth closed as much as possible.
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Nov 22, 2013 15:47
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QPZIL posted:I have another question using my very-limited vocabulary. Do you have a block plane?
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Nov 22, 2013 16:12
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mds2 posted:Do you have a block plane? A lovely old knockoff one with a crooked blade somehow. I'll probably pick up a new one when I get a plow plane. I think it's time for resharpening and edge honing on my planes anyway, they're probably just not sharp enough to handle the end grain.
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Nov 22, 2013 16:21
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So I'm just getting into woodworking and not having a shopclass I don't know a lot of safety stuff, and I tend to know the obvious stuff (Use pushsticks because you wantto keep your finger away from the blade) but I happened across this this and  "Got it buying a riving stop absolutely" but is there a nice collection of 'obvious' safety stuff?
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Nov 22, 2013 16:47
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Forer posted:So I'm just getting into woodworking and not having a shopclass I don't know a lot of safety stuff, and I tend to know the obvious stuff (Use pushsticks because you wantto keep your finger away from the blade) but I happened across this this and Riving knife is a very nice feature but you can still be relatively safe without one. Don't stand in the line of kickback, always use pushsticks, feather boards, etc and make sure your table saw is very well adjusted and the fence is parallel to the blade. Also should be obvious but figure Ill mention it also: know when to use the rip fence and when to use a crosscut sled. Treat the machines like they are out to kill you and you should be fine
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Nov 22, 2013 19:57
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dwoloz posted:Riving knife is a very nice feature but you can still be relatively safe without one. Don't stand in the line of kickback, always use pushsticks, feather boards, etc and make sure your table saw is very well adjusted and the fence is parallel to the blade. Also should be obvious but figure Ill mention it also: know when to use the rip fence and when to use a crosscut sled. Treat the machines like they are out to kill you and you should be fine As someone who uses a table saw for several hours every day, I would like to encourage the use of a riving knife, or at the very least a splitter at all times. There are very few operations that can't be done with the knife in place, and I have never had kickback while using one. It's probably the simplest and most effective piece of safety equipment on a saw. I know you were joking, but I would like to also point out that being afraid of your tools is probably the worst attitude to have. Respecting their power and knowing how to operate them safely with confidence is probably a better way to go. Read manuals, take classes, and watch videos. Learn the proper way to make whatever cut you're making(rip, crosscut, etc.), and you should never have to worry about cutting off any extremities.
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Nov 22, 2013 20:28
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Skinny Bins posted:As someone who uses a table saw for several hours every day, I would like to encourage the use of a riving knife, or at the very least a splitter at all times. There are very few operations that can't be done with the knife in place, and I have never had kickback while using one. It's probably the simplest and most effective piece of safety equipment on a saw. its when people become complacent that accidents happen. Its good to have a little fear of tools. My worst table saw "accident" was running a lead lined door through and having lead shavings cut my arms and face up. Should of known something was up when the guy helping me grabbed a welding mask and gloves.
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Nov 22, 2013 20:48
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All this time, I... ...I, uh, I may have been using my 3 planes with the iron in upside-down. 
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Nov 22, 2013 22:24
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