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rotor posted:Attn: SF Bay Area metalworking people (are there any here?): http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/tls/4192415007.html I will most likely be one in maybe 2 months.
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Nov 17, 2013 16:36
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CarForumPoster posted:I will most likely be one in maybe 2 months. Welcome to the bay. Leperflesh and I are here. But we've never met. I don't have any use for a milling machine, though.
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Nov 18, 2013 18:39
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ArtistCeleste posted:Welcome to the bay. Leperflesh and I are here. But we've never met. I don't have any use for a milling machine, though. My wife has been doing a fair amount of milling, but she needs CNC. That's a tempting price but my garage is already full of stuff and what I really need (but can't use yet) is a forge and an anvil. So I'll have to pass.
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Nov 19, 2013 00:14
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tech shop has a couple if you don't actually need it in your house
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Nov 19, 2013 02:03
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Meat Recital posted:How thin are we talking here? It's going to be tough, oxyacetylene is real bad for thin material. You cant control or target the heat like you can with an arc, so eventually the whole piece heats up and makes it very hard to work with. MIG would probably be ideal for this, but if acetylene is all you have, you might be able to braze it back together, or just chop off the break and replace that section with a thicker tube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aF1Srs_e1Aw
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Nov 19, 2013 03:33
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Guys like that... are humbling. I couldn't get anything better than a boogery sooty weld with oxy fuel when I took a class on it.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:32
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rotor posted:tech shop has a couple if you don't actually need it in your house Yeah, that's where she does her CNC machining. Monthly fees add up, but given how much CNC mills cost, it's still worth it.
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Nov 19, 2013 20:29
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah, that's where she does her CNC machining. Monthly fees add up, but given how much CNC mills cost, it's still worth it. fwiw I got a small cnc setup for under 2k, details in the hobby cnc thread if ur curious
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Nov 20, 2013 04:40
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So a friend of mine was given a Hamilton and Associates (Maryland) benchtop mill. It's the tiniest little thing and looks like a lot of fun. The problem is that the timing belt is really sketchy looking and I'm having trouble finding a replacement. I can barely even find any information about this mill online - it appears to be something that was produced for high school metal shops in the early part of the last century. And that there was a Hamilton Ohio company that produced similar things but has nothing to do with the Maryland company. Does anyone have any ideas? The most promising lead I've come up with so far is jdv-belts.com. They don't have anything listed for it, but I figure I'll give them a call in the morning. EDIT: Switched Maryland/Ohio.....I had it backwards. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 04:47
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Alright. If I want to cast brackets and intake manifolds and stuff for engines out of aluminum, what do I need to know? I have access to a bridgeport and a shopbot that can be used to make foam layers for complex lost-foam blanks at work. I also have large piles of old cast aluminum intakes, timing covers, brackets, etc I can melt down for this... I am assuming they're the same high-silicon aluminum alloy I'll want to use. How do I go about annealing and/or hardening the castings? How do I calculate the amount I need to scale the blank up to account for shrinkage? How does one decide how large to make the casting sprues and air vent passages, and where to put them? Should I preheat the form before pouring? What temperature should I pour the metal at? How do I prevent porosity? I've done a little aluminum scrap smelting but all I did was screw around and pour nifty little round ingots in a sand mold, nothing useful. e: oh, what should I plan on using for flux when melting the aluminum?
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Nov 20, 2013 05:07
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Motronic posted:So a friend of mine was given a Hamilton and Associates (Ohio) benchtop mill. It's the tiniest little thing and looks like a lot of fun. what's the dimensions?
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Nov 20, 2013 05:15
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kastein posted:Alright. If I want to cast brackets and intake manifolds and stuff for engines out of aluminum, what do I need to know? There's a number of posts on the H.A.M.B ( https://www.jalopyjournal.com ) about this sort of thing, including someone who cast their own head if I remember correctly. Not everything is in the tech archive there, you'll probably have to do a bit of hunting around the main forum as well. I don't personally have much experience in casting but from what I've heard/read you're probably on the right track as far as source materials. looking at a very old copy of "aluminium and magnesium design and fabrication" that I haven't actually had time to read yet, machining allowances seem to be about 3/32 to 3/16 inch, don't know if that helps.
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Nov 20, 2013 08:14
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kastein posted:Alright. If I want to cast brackets and intake manifolds and stuff for engines out of aluminum, what do I need to know? I'm an engineering student and what you've asked is basically the equivalent of the entire casting component of my second year materials and manufacturing course, so in other words you're asking a lot. If you can get in touch with me via pm or email I can set you up with some material that will answer most of your questions. I think it would get too messy trying to communicate it all in the thread, and you're going to have a lot of questions.
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Nov 20, 2013 15:11
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bend posted:There's a number of posts on the H.A.M.B ( https://www.jalopyjournal.com ) about this sort of thing, including someone who cast their own head if I remember correctly. Not everything is in the tech archive there, you'll probably have to do a bit of hunting around the main forum as well. I don't personally have much experience in casting but from what I've heard/read you're probably on the right track as far as source materials. That definitely helps, I was assuming around 1/8-1/4 excess metal where there will be machined surfaces just to make sure any pitting from the mold/mold blank doesn't affect the final product so it's good to know I was roughly on the right track. I'm hoping to cast a cylinder head eventually but that is definitely not a project for a first-timer, manifolds and brackets are a little more doable I think. Kim Jong ill posted:I'm an engineering student and what you've asked is basically the equivalent of the entire casting component of my second year materials and manufacturing course, so in other words you're asking a lot. If you can get in touch with me via pm or email I can set you up with some material that will answer most of your questions. (I'm an EE and dabble in mechanical engineering/metalwork on the side, so I get where you're coming from with that.)
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Nov 20, 2013 16:12
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rotor posted:what's the dimensions? So I edited my original post. I had the Ohio/Maryland reversed. This is a Maryland one:  It's apart being cleaned and checked at the moment:  The belts are both 5/32" wide. One is about 30" long, the other is about 18 1/2" long. I say about because like I said they are pretty sketchy looking, so I have no idea how much they are stretched. edit: these are V belts, not toothed. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 17:11
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Does that mill not have a y axis?
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Nov 21, 2013 01:09
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It looks like the y-axis ballscrew assembly is just sitting on the base due to the cleaning/checking.
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Nov 21, 2013 01:53
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 Hard to tell, but it sure looks like a Gates-style toothed belt on this guy's mill. I've never heard of a v-belt 5/32" wide.
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Nov 21, 2013 03:12
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kastein posted:Alright. If I want to cast brackets and intake manifolds and stuff for engines out of aluminum, what do I need to know? Ken, there is an awesome writeup on casting on the first page of this thread if you haven't already seen it. You can also check out https://www.alloyavenue.com for lots of DIY casting info
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Nov 21, 2013 03:25
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I got the coolest project at work today. I get to restore 3 car horns from 1911, 1912, and 1913 Model T Fords! It is a nice change from normal musical instruments. They need dents taken out, and resoldering, and possibly some patches made for some cracks if I am ballsy enough to do that.  
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Nov 21, 2013 05:14
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sixide posted:
Woah...that definitely looks like it. And I guess they are "toothed", but the toothed section doesn't touch anything on the mill - only the v section. Would that still be considered a toothed belt?  Dimensions: code:B: 1/16" C: 9/64" And idea what kind of mill that is so I can try to cross reference belts? Brekelefuw posted:Does that mill not have a y axis? It's removed at the moment. In fact, the brass block it threads into is a bit loose, so another one will need to be fabricated. If only we had a working mill.......... Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 17:48
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sounds a lot like the gates belt the taig uses http://www.amazon.com/Gates-3M500-Polyflex-Section-Length/dp/B006LPXO2O
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Nov 21, 2013 18:10
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rotor posted:sounds a lot like the gates belt the taig uses http://www.amazon.com/Gates-3M500-Polyflex-Section-Length/dp/B006LPXO2O Nice. Looks like the 5M (maybe 3m) profile ones will work for this. I found the engineering drawings on the Gates site so I'm going to take some measurements of the machine to see what I can match up. Thanks! Looks like this might be a winner.
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Nov 21, 2013 19:51
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I'm giving serious thought to buying a TIG machine come spring. As I said a few pages ago I love to weld and always wanted to learn TIG but never had the opportunity so what better way to learn than buy my own machine right? I've been having my eye on the Miller Dynasty 200DX and was wondering if 200 amps is enough machine. My plan is to first become proficient with TIG then try to do side jobs on the weekend or something like that.
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Nov 22, 2013 00:31
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200 amps is plenty for TIG work that only needs 200 amps. I know that's completely useless advise, but without knowing what you're planning on getting into, who knows? If you're doing little stuff and aluminum from time to time, then 200 amps is plenty. Beveling a weld and doing multiple passes can get you a lot of mileage with TIG when you need a big joint. That's also an awesome machine and you'll never outgrow it for it's intended purpose.
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Nov 22, 2013 04:05
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I'd just like to thank everyone who sent me aluminum casting info - I have a lot of reading ahead of me it seems.
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Nov 22, 2013 17:16
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Need some advice on auto dimming welding masks.... I wear glasses and the nod helmet I have is poo poo. This one http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/safety/welding-mask.jpg Should I get a lense replacement of but a cheap auto lid. Any to look out for? Are they all pretty equal?
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Nov 22, 2013 23:22
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Miller's headgear sucks dick so I'd avoid their helmets. The best one I've ever used was a speedglas 9000 I forget exactly which one though. I'm currently using a Jackson nexgen now which isn't bad except if you weld looking through the corner of the lens or anywhere other than the middle of the lens it's pretty bright. I weld with a shade 11 and if I use anyplace other than the middle it drops to about a 9.
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Nov 23, 2013 00:27
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 New set of cufflinks. These ones went much faster than my last, and the brass enclosure and screw back is way nicer than my last set. I might get a little oven to enamel my next sets so they don't tarnish. The spray lacquer I have is the worst.
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Nov 23, 2013 02:35
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thegasman2000 posted:Need some advice on auto dimming welding masks.... I wear glasses and the nod helmet I have is poo poo. This one http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/safety/welding-mask.jpg If you're looking for a decent cheap automatic helmet, I bought a Rhino helmet from Amazon once on a whim and I actually use it pretty much all the time now. http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-LARGE-Darkening-Welding-Helmet/dp/B0085T1LDS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1385173568&sr=8-3&keywords=rhino+helmet (also comes in red, blue, etc if you search rhino helmet) It's pretty great for $100. The large field of view is really nice, the adjustments are good, and it reacts faster than the basic Hobart auto helmets I was using before. I can sometimes get a glimpse of the flash when using low-power TIG with the Hobart, but the Rhino triggers undetectably fast every time. The darkness control is also a dial on the outside instead of a little coin-screw thing on the inside so that's great too. The only thing you lose out on is some of the pieces (side walls mostly) feel a little flimsier than more expensive helmets, as you'd expect. I haven't had any problems with it though. I'd certainly want something sturdier if I was a welder by trade, but for occasional and hobby use it's been great. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Nov 23, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 03:32
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I bought this Lincoln Helmet back in July and used it just about every day until harvest started in September. As long as you keep the lens clean and replace it often enough, it's a fantastic helmet. Darkens supper fast, not battery powered, fully adjustable, and relatively cheap. Their website says $187, but I think I paid $150 at AirGas. I highly recommend it.
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Nov 23, 2013 05:18
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Brekelefuw posted:
Those are amazing. I don't think I saw the first set. Are they hand sawed, formed and soldered? Is it a bezel? Did you create the enamel designs yourself? I must know how these are made.
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Nov 24, 2013 08:53
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ArtistCeleste posted:Those are amazing. I don't think I saw the first set. Are they hand sawed, formed and soldered? Is it a bezel? Did you create the enamel designs yourself? I must know how these are made. No sawing or soldering involved. I turn the brass part on my lathe out of a single piece, and then turrn the backing screw out of a smaller piece. The cufflinks are large, at about .9" in diameter, as requested by my brother who ordered them. I have a lapidary setup that I used to do the inlay. This particular inlay is made from an antique british tile that my brother found at an antique mall. It was a bit scary cutting because the tile was clay on the back, and I wasn't sure if it would shatter as I got it to the dimensions I needed. It ended up being about .07" thick when finished. I set it in the brass with jeweler's epoxy. Here is my other set that I made.  These ones have a sodalite inlay that was shaped entireley by hand. I now have special drill bits that allow me to get a round cut on my stones without having to hand shape them from a square chunk. It saves me about two hours of lapidary time! I recently got a special attachment for my lapidary station to allow me to put angles on my stones, so my next set will have a 60 degree bevel around the edge. With the stone having a bevel, I can insert it in to the cufflink and then spin the metal down over top of the stone to hold it in place and creat a nice curved edge around the stone.
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Nov 24, 2013 16:36
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Brekelefuw posted:No sawing or soldering involved. I turn the brass part on my lathe out of a single piece, and then turrn the backing screw out of a smaller piece. The cufflinks are large, at about .9" in diameter, as requested by my brother who ordered them. Very, very nice. Do you tap and thread the ends? How do they fit together. I am in awe of these. I've done almost every sculptural process you can think of but have never cut stone. I have drilled into ceramic. It sounds nerve racking to cut into it. Do you use a hole saw bit, or something like it? Bevels, always make a beautiful finishing touch. Please post more when you finish.
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Nov 24, 2013 19:07
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I tap the stem, and make a screw back. I don't have the proper torch to solder a normal cufflink backing on to it. Cutting stone is pretty fun, but very messy. I also have lost a bit of feeling in the tip of my thumb from vibrations. I use an inland swaptop all-in-wonder lapidary setup. It is by far the cheapest lapidary setup you can get, but doesn't the job for me, since I don't need to do anything on a large scale. I used to hand shape the stones to get them round, but I have since discovered diamond core drills. The core drills have a hole through the shank of the drill, so I put a perfectly fit dowel inside the drill bit, and then after I am done drilling the stone I can punch out the core without damaging it. From each core I cut, I can usually get 2 discs to use for inlays. If you go here you can see some more of my stuff. Mostly finger buttons for trumpets. http://brekelefuw.imgur.com/buttons The 3 last images are ones I have done in the last few weeks. They are Picture Jasper, Jade, and the tile Cufflinks above.
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Nov 24, 2013 19:26
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Brekelefuw posted:I also have lost a bit of feeling in the tip of my thumb from vibrations. Whoa, vibration white finger is serious business. Might not be a bad idea to read up on prevention, because losing the feeling in your fingers permanently (or losing the entire finger) is not so fun.
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Nov 24, 2013 19:57
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sixide posted:Whoa, vibration white finger is serious business. Might not be a bad idea to read up on prevention, because losing the feeling in your fingers permanently (or losing the entire finger) is not so fun. Interesting. I have never heard of that. I do use a drum stick to push my stones through the saw blade now, so the pressure isn't on my thumb anymore, but I will have to take a better look at my techniques to minimize this type of injury.
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Nov 24, 2013 22:25
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kastein posted:Alright. If I want to cast brackets and intake manifolds and stuff for engines out of aluminum, what do I need to know? There is a book called Aluminum and it's alloys produced by the ASM in the early 80s. It will tell you everything you need to know to do this correctly and make decent quality castings, even out of scrap. It explicitly answers all of these questions and explains why. It will also make you realize how stupid most of the home casters are on the internet, for example steel crucibles are a stupid idea because iron forms really lovely, insoluble, brittle precipitates that use up the alloying elements. Here is the book, I have a photocopy of it. Maybe you can find it somewhere much cheaper...like free as a PDF. http://www.asminternational.org/portal/site/www/AsmStore/ProductDetails/?vgnextoid=64a68a1dbb874210VgnVCM100000621e010aRCRD CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 15:50
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CarForumPoster posted:It will also make you realize how stupid most of the home casters are on the internet, for example steel crucibles are a stupid idea because iron forms really lovely, insoluble, brittle precipitates that use up the alloying elements. proper crucibles for multi-pound melts are expensive 
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Nov 26, 2013 16:41
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I'm going to sign up for Silversmithing certificate at a local college that has a large jewelry program. I can't wait. I already did machinist course there and it was great. Starts in January.
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Nov 26, 2013 17:22
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