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Baillie is turning out to be a real sweetheart, she's settled in so well it's hard to believe she's not even been here a week. She's been really good on the lead so far, however on a couple of occasions now when out on walks she's decided no, let's go home now and just sits her butt down. I know it's not her EIC because she is otherwise full of life immediately after, just only when we are heading home/going back in the direction of the incredibly interesting poop. This is pretty much the only area where she is defiant, any ideas why this is and the best way to deal with it? e: who'sh a cyoot poopy 
Captain Diarrhoea fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Nov 19, 2013 |
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Nov 19, 2013 14:59
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I have had my 11 month old yorkie for about 2 months now and we made an effort at house training, but admitted it was a half hearted attempt. I am ready to get serious about getting her trained. we have a crate but are not really good about using it. I do keep her food in there. She is not food motivated and we try to treat when she goes outside but she usually just drops it and walks away. She also does not squat an empty her bladder when she is outside. She will squat but keep walking. I have taken her to the vet and she does not have any know issues. I would even be ok with training her to use puppy pads. That would be preferred to surprise puddles.
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Nov 19, 2013 16:19
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SuzieMcAwesome posted:I have had my 11 month old yorkie for about 2 months now and we made an effort at house training, but admitted it was a half hearted attempt. I am ready to get serious about getting her trained. we have a crate but are not really good about using it. I do keep her food in there. She is not food motivated and we try to treat when she goes outside but she usually just drops it and walks away. She also does not squat an empty her bladder when she is outside. She will squat but keep walking. I have taken her to the vet and she does not have any know issues. I would even be ok with training her to use puppy pads. That would be preferred to surprise puddles. Well I'd stop storing food in her crate. Generally you want that to be a clean area for her. Try to find out what food/treats really motivate her. Try small bits of cheese, hot dogs, peanut butter. Sometimes it just takes time to find a high value treat. Once you have that, just keep reinforcing the behavior when you're outside. Once you find the correct motivator you will probably have her trained in no time at all. Also be sure to clean up her spills inside with a deodorizer (Nature's miracle as mentioned in this thread). You want to take all desire to pee inside. She will eventually treat the house like her den and will actively avoid peeing inside. It will just take her time.
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Nov 19, 2013 16:31
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I don't really see a problem with keeping her food in the crate (often a good idea to teach them to enjoy being in the crate), but I imagine some dogs could get weird about not wanting to pee near their food. Agreeing that an enzymatic cleaner should be used to clean up accidents. If you soak it in that you will get up every trace of urine that she can still smell, but we can't. Typically if they can still smell it, they'll think it's still an okay place to pee. But originally I came here to post this, as I think it's a good read to help new (and old) dog owners better understand their dogs: http://blog.smartanimaltraining.com/2013/11/19/when-is-controlling-our-dog-too-controlling/
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Nov 19, 2013 17:40
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SuzieMcAwesome posted:I have had my 11 month old yorkie for about 2 months now and we made an effort at house training, but admitted it was a half hearted attempt. I am ready to get serious about getting her trained. we have a crate but are not really good about using it. I do keep her food in there. She is not food motivated and we try to treat when she goes outside but she usually just drops it and walks away. She also does not squat an empty her bladder when she is outside. She will squat but keep walking. I have taken her to the vet and she does not have any know issues. I would even be ok with training her to use puppy pads. That would be preferred to surprise puddles. If you're free-feeding, switch to meals twice a day. Take the food up if she doesn't eat it within 15 minutes. If you can't easily feel ribs (like feeling your knuckles on the back of your open hand), cut her food intake in half. A week of this plus high-value treats (cheese, hot dogs, tripe) will usually turn picky dogs into food motivated ones. Housebreaking's 95% keeping track of your dog and not letting her be unsupervised. Use the crate when you can't keep an eye on her until she's gone two weeks with no accidents in the house (this includes at night). Schedule breaks to go outside every 4 hours during the day to start - tiny dogs have smaller bladders relative to how much they drink and so they may never get to a point where they can hold it for as long as big dogs.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:44
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Oh yeah I didn't think about free feeding. Take the above advice.
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Nov 19, 2013 19:54
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I have stopped free feeding. This was difficult as there are 2 cats in the house that were used to free feeding. She does not eat much to begin with and is a healthy weight. she usually gets less than a quarter cup of food her feeding in there usually a few pieces of kibble left in the bowl. She did well today with peeing when I took her out. Pieces of deli turkey seemed to be pretty motivational. She does not poo outside though. We do several laps around the house before she heads for the door. 20 minutes or so later, you find a surprise. Should I be crating her at all times when she is not outside until she is house broken?
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Nov 20, 2013 01:32
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SuzieMcAwesome posted:She did well today with peeing when I took her out. Pieces of deli turkey seemed to be pretty motivational. She does not poo outside though. We do several laps around the house before she heads for the door. 20 minutes or so later, you find a surprise. Should I be crating her at all times when she is not outside until she is house broken? Going for a brisk walk (half-mile+) will help move things along and make her more likely to poop outside. Starting out, I'd try a walk about 30 minutes after each meal, just keep her moving until she poops. When she's inside she should either be attached to you on a tether, in her crate, or being actively monitored in a contained area with you. You've basically got her on lockdown to break the habit of going inside. Once she's gone two weeks without an accident, you can lift the monitoring but keep the schedule of taking her outside. If she has an accident after that, go back to 100% monitoring for a week.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:45
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SuzieMcAwesome posted:I have stopped free feeding. This was difficult as there are 2 cats in the house that were used to free feeding. She does not eat much to begin with and is a healthy weight. she usually gets less than a quarter cup of food her feeding in there usually a few pieces of kibble left in the bowl. E: Beaten by ELenk. Pretty much. She should be either 100% under your supervision or crated/gated in an area where she's proven herself resistant to soil. As she improves, you can start enlarging the area(s) she has access to, but only after showing herself to be trustworthy for several weeks.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:48
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Captain Diarrhoea posted:Baillie is turning out to be a real sweetheart, she's settled in so well it's hard to believe she's not even been here a week. How old? When I first got my pup he would refuse to walk pretty often too. It was a pain in the rear end just to get him down the hallway and outside. After he warmed to his surroundings and they became familiar it got better and better so time seems to be the answer. We would put a treat down every 10ft or so and then touch the floor to get him to move, eventually doing it less and less. Worked fine.
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Nov 20, 2013 02:07
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So my fiancee negated all the work i did yesterday with Bella. Had her to the point yesterday that she understood that a squat and a good pee =piece of turkey. I had to work last night(12 hrs) and i told him to take her out every 2-3 hrs then kennel her. If her whining was too loud put the kennel in another room. I just got home and she was out of the kennel, with a pee and a poop accident found. This is so frustrating I don't want to crate her from the time i leave for work and when i return. That would be 14 hours with my travel time.
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Nov 20, 2013 15:35
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My puppy was born  I'm going to be getting him at the end of January and am VERY excited.
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Nov 20, 2013 20:26
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Well I got my first puppy ever. His name is Odin. We've had him 3 days now and he seems do be doing pretty well. We got him at 7 weeks old (I know this is considered too early but it couldn't be helped). He is as much of a handful as I had expected. We crate him at night and he sleeps next to the bed. He usually sleeps for about 7 hours waking up around 5.30am then we put him straight into the garden to pee. I've done a few training sessions using a clicker and found he likes luncheon slices the best so far. He has learned his name fairly well and we are working on sit at the moment. I also got a baby gate and separated him off from the bedrooms so we have a safe puppy space with no rugs or carpet to ruin. He is really cute when he is asleep but can be a furry little jerk sometimes. I am looking forward to when he is big enough to come outside on walks.  
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Nov 27, 2013 04:59
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Odin is cute  have fun with the new pup and get lots of pics.
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Nov 27, 2013 05:22
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Cute pups in here. My 7ish month old Doberman/Rottweiler/AmStaff mix seems to be incredibly whiny and needy for attention. This is normal right? Even after he's been fed and been out for both 1 and 2 it often doesn't stop him from crying until he's curled up next to us on the couch or trying to chew our hands off. Do they grow out of this crying stage or is it a habit we're not correcting early that will carry over into adulthood?
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Nov 27, 2013 13:20
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Goonicus posted:Cute pups in here. Sounds like it's a habit.
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Nov 27, 2013 13:34
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a life less posted:Sounds like it's a habit. Recommended way of breaking that habit?
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Nov 27, 2013 15:02
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Goonicus posted:Recommended way of breaking that habit? Reinforce alternative behaviour, and possibly implementing time-outs for excessive whining. Here are some videos to get you started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wesm2OpE_2c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEx_KdF4p8M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2oeOUZ8kls You can use some chews like stuffed kongs, bully sticks, etc to help occupy the dog when you don't want to work with him directly. I would probably also train a "go to bed" cue. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/3308 The cue to go to bed is different from the captured calmness of the first links. The first set of links emphasize calmness without a cue. The second incorporates a cue, so the dog will enter into work mode while you train. You don't want your dog to be working while you capture calmness, so train the two behaviours separately. The best time to start training an off switch is when the dog is young like yours. The dog will soon understand that inside is for relaxing and outside is for playing.
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Nov 27, 2013 15:32
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I'd let the demand behaviors extinguish before trying to ask for an alternative one, personally - most people don't like going that route though because the extinction burst is an annoying process, but a behavior that has gone through that process is much less likely to resurface later. Edit: to be clear, extinguishing a behavior means removing all reinforcement for that particular behavior. Dog can whine all day but is absolutely not gonna get what he wants from it. It will get worse for a bit as he escalates, but eventually he will realize "I am not getting what I want from this, gonna try something else instead." That's when it's better to add the new polite ask-for-attention behavior. ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 19:04
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Thank you pet whisperer goons, I'll get to work on this starting today.
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Nov 27, 2013 19:46
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My husband and I have an 11-month-old Pembroke Welsh Corgi, and so far he's been an absolute nightmare. We have a 5-year-old girl Pembroke so we knew the temperament of the breed, but we got her at 18 months so we didn't deal with her through the puppy phase. We still wanted to start things off on the right foot with our puppy, though, so we've gone through two rounds of puppy training (both 6 week courses) that taught us all the things in OP, specifically ignoring bad behavior and rewarding positive behavior. As for exercise/mental stimulation, we have a dog walker who takes him out for 30 minute walks in the middle of the day, and he goes for a shorter walk probably 3-4 times a day. On weekends I take him for 3-4 mile walks that only end when he starts dragging his heels, and almost every day of the week he's running around with our girl in ridiculous corgi-circles for as long as they can both stand it until they're both panting like crazy and drink themselves stupid on water. In spite of everything we've done to give our puppy a good start, nothing is working out how we expected. Here's a short (but my no means comprehensive) list of things we're dealing with: - Carpet destruction. Our whole place is carpeted, but it's that cheap kindergarten-style carpet made up of scratchy loops that snag easily. Milkshake (the corgi in question) will take any opportunity, even a period of 15-20 seconds, to latch on to a piece of carpet and rip it up if he's left unattended. I've tried hot sauce, pepper, and bitter apple, and I swear to God he enjoys them all. - Barking. Constantly, forever and ever. We don't engage with him when he barks, we give him treats when he's quiet, and yet he's still an absolute fucker who will bark at everything and anything for no apparent reason. - Going to the bathroom inside. He's almost a year old and yet he'll still pee/poop on the rug if he hasn't been out in more than four hours. We're good about getting him outside, and for a few months he seemed to be making some improvements, but now he's down to less than four hours. We'll take him for a walk at 4:30, take him for another one at 6:30, and then at 8:30 we walk into the living room and there's always a couple presents for us right on the rug. We clean the spots with a wet-vac and nature's miracle, but he doesn't give a drat about that. He just finds a different spot and goes there too. - Resource guarding. He knows leave it, take it, and drop it, and he's very good about letting things go if you have a treat at the ready, but he won't do poo poo for you if you don't have a treat in front of his nose right this second. If he picks up something he isn't supposed to have and you tell him to drop it, he takes it over to the cabinet where we keep the treats and looks at you like 'Not until you pay me'. God forbid you actually try and take something from him, though - or reach nearby as though you're going to take it, even if you don't mean to - because he'll crunch down on your hand like holy hell. On the positive side, he's a sweet dog and he plays very well with our girl. He's amazing with other dogs, adults, kids, babies - you name it, he loves it. He's a huge cuddle-monster and nothing makes him happier than curling up on the couch next to you with chew toy. Unfortunately my husband hates him because he's such a terrible dog in the training respects, and that has made everyone's life miserable. I"m basically at my wits end. I'm seriously considering going back to the breeders and saying we can't keep the dog (which is what it says to do in thes contract), but he's my little guy and I still have hope that this is a phase he'll grow out of once he's older. I've been telling myself that a long time, though, so maybe I'm the one in the wrong.
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Nov 28, 2013 05:11
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Yikes. It sounds like you're having a tough time of things. I'll start off by saying that "reward the good, ignore the bad" is a good mantra for people just getting into dog training, but it falls short for addressing actual behaviour problems. The key to changing behaviour is understanding where the reinforcement is coming from, remove that reinforcement and then give the dog something else to do instead which you then reinforce. It's not easy, especially since a lot of the issues you're having are self-reinforcing to the dog. Management is also key to stopping problem behaviours. It sounds like you're kind of living in a free for all right now and just reacting to the bad stuff rather than actively trying to prevent it. Carpet - I would probably be utilizing a crate, x-pen or baby gate to keep him in a non-carpeted area (kitchen?) for the next few weeks/months. Ripping it up is likely highly reinforcing and provides instant gratification, and no amount of yelling at him after the fact is going to give him pause the next time he is given the opportunity to rip it up. Once you've removed his ability to practice bad behaviour for a few weeks/months, you can re-introduce to the carpet and try differential reinforcement of incompatible behavior (DRI). Ie, reward for anything that isn't ripping up the carpet. http://education.purduecal.edu/Vockell/EdPsyBook/Edpsy10/edpsy10dra.htm Barking - You do realize you have a corgi, right? Under what circumstances is he barking? Addressing alert barking is different than addressing barking during excitement. For excitement barking, use time outs liberally until the dog calms down. If he's barking at you, put down any treats/toys and turn around and leave the area. Allow re-engagement after a period of quiet. Your timing has to be good and your criteria has to be strong. One bark and away he goes. No half a dozen barks and you finally yell at him from your chair when you're fed up and then 4 barks later he gets put away. For alert barking, you can teach a speak cue, and then a quiet cue. Once the dog knows the cue well you can cue quiet. For barking out of fear, you have to address it a different way. Read Scaredy Dog by Ali Brown to get yourself started. http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=dtb799 Pottying indoors - This one will hopefully sort itself out if you implement the gates/crates recommended above to keep the dog off the carpet. You're absolutely going to have to control his access to these potty spots when you're not around. And you need to control that access for weeks/months. It'll suck having to deal with gates/crates for the next 4-12+ weeks, but it's worth it in the long run when you have a dog who is trustworthy at home. Resource guarding - This one sounds pretty bad already. From your description, it sounds like it's escalated to quite a dangerous level. I absolutely love the book Mine! by Jean Donaldson for treating RG. http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=dtb740 Bribery - It sounds like you're having to bribe your dog for good behaviour. There's a fine line between a reward and a bribe, and that line gets fuzzy as the dog catches on to the game, but you need to try to keep them distinct. I think the post 1-2 above yours in this thread could be helpful (whining dog). Check out some of the videos about capturing calmness. It sounds like your dog needs to learn how to settle indoors and stop his manic tear around your house. Some dogs come with an off switch, some dogs need for you to install it yourself. E: Link to my response http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3471773&pagenumber=67#post422435897 Keep in mine that the dog is what he is because of his environment. His personality, plus the methods which you've used to deal with him have made him what he is today. To substantially change his behaviour, you'll have to substantially change the way you deal with things. I think you guys need more structure. Calm in the house. The dog should offer good behaviour for potential rewards -- look into "nothing in life is free" or NILIF. http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm
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Nov 28, 2013 13:34
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ALL said everything I would say much better than I would have said it. Just so you know its not just you, this all (except the resource guarding) sounds like very normal obnoxious teen corgi stuff. I could have written the exact same post 9 years ago about my parents' corgi complete with carpet destroying and floor pissing. They are truly awful puppies and you really have to micro-manage them or they will drive you nuts. Crating and tethering saved our sanity but there were still many, many days where we wanted to strangle her. She still barks (she's a corgi) and will pee on the floor if you don't crate her but consistent training and time have made her a much easier dog to live with.
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Nov 28, 2013 16:54
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Our house has all wood floors except for a few rugs for warmth. When the puppy starts running around or attempts to run up the stairs I find she is slipping and falling over. She's launched herself off of a 3 step landing by just approaching it too fast. Now it doesn't seem to slow her down at all but I know a puppy will run head first into a door and keep on going. Should I be concerned with her injuring herself or causing long term harm? She is coming up on 8 months old. I saw a product on amazon that people use for older dogs who have problems on wood flooring. It's a spray for their paws. I would go down that route but I'm curious if I should even worry about it.
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Nov 28, 2013 17:30
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Similarly, when should I stop my puppy from eating things outside? He'll chew on wood, branches, twigs, leaves, grass, plants, and even rocks. I try to snag things from his mouth (especially rocks!) but it seems like chewing/eating things is all he does outside. He has plenty of toys to chew in his crate and enough food according to the vet. Is this just puppy lyfe~?
internet inc fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Nov 28, 2013 |
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Nov 28, 2013 17:39
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internet inc posted:Similarly, when should I stop my puppy from eating things outside? He'll chew on wood, branches, twigs, leaves, grass, plants, and even rocks. I try to snag things from his mouth (especially rocks!) but it seems like chewing/eating things is all he does outside. He has plenty of toys to chew in his crate and enough food according to the vet. Is this just puppy lyfe~? We trained our pup on Leave it and Drop it. If she picks up anything that isn't a stick we say drop it and she leave sit be. Most of the time.
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Nov 28, 2013 17:51
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edit: actually better asked in the herding thread
Tamarillo fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Nov 29, 2013 |
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Nov 29, 2013 08:09
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a life less posted:Barking - You do realize you have a corgi, right? Under what circumstances is he barking? Addressing alert barking is different than addressing barking during excitement. For excitement barking, use time outs liberally until the dog calms down. If he's barking at you, put down any treats/toys and turn around and leave the area. Allow re-engagement after a period of quiet. Your timing has to be good and your criteria has to be strong. One bark and away he goes. No half a dozen barks and you finally yell at him from your chair when you're fed up and then 4 barks later he gets put away. Heh, yes, we know we have a corgi. Our girl barks too, but the problem with our boy is that his barking is the PAY ATTENTION TO ME WHY AREN'T YOU PAYING ATTENTION TO ME? I don't care if he barks at the wind or the back door or whatever, because our girl is too, but it's the constant whining for attention that drives us apeshit. I'm glad to know we're not monsters if we keep him penned in the kitchen without having him be around us 24/7. That's good to know using a period of a few weeks to get him out of the behavior, because you're absolutely right about it being instantly rewarding. As for the resource guarding, yeah, I definitely let that one get out of control. It honestly happened so fast that I don't know what I could have done to train him out of it as a little guy. It was like one day he was normal and the next it was 'hey everything in this house is mine and gently caress you if you don't like it.' I'll check out Mine! and my husband and I will both have a talk about what kind of structure we need to introduce to the house. Thanks for all the helpful advice. We're feeling pretty lost and it's reassuring to have someone say that our dog isn't irretrievably broken.
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Nov 29, 2013 14:17
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My brother has a large mixed dog. She rips through every single toy. He has tried kongs, the 'invincible' brands, canvas, jeans, tires, etc. Nothing lasts more than few days. Can anyone think of any extremely heavy duty toys?
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Dec 2, 2013 05:36
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pomme posted:My brother has a large mixed dog. She rips through every single toy. He has tried kongs, the 'invincible' brands, canvas, jeans, tires, etc. Nothing lasts more than few days. Can anyone think of any extremely heavy duty toys? Nylabone, the hard kind. Jolly Egg. Video of Jolly Egg in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybDHRkSXbos
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Dec 2, 2013 05:44
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What do you do for a dog that chews on everything BUT the chew toys we bought for it. 
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Dec 2, 2013 05:46
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Oxford Comma posted:What do you do for a dog that chews on everything BUT the chew toys we bought for it. Bitter no-chew spray, and coat the things you want them to chew on with peanut butter. It might help :3
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Dec 2, 2013 05:50
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Oxford Comma posted:What do you do for a dog that chews on everything BUT the chew toys we bought for it. You should really try keeping your questions in one place. The issues you're having are not unrelated. A large part of getting him to stop [barking at the windows/chewing on poo poo/getting on the couch/insert other normal untrained dog thing here] is management ie. preventing him from being able to practice those behaviours in the first place. The rest involves finding things he likes to chew that are acceptable to you, (ie. toys, and if they aren't appealing to him you need to MAKE them appealing), and reinforcing him for choosing those. Even if he has NO OTHER OPTION because he's crated with nothing except his chew toys, you still reinforce him.
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Dec 2, 2013 06:07
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The pup is an avid chewer and she is loving the antler we got for her. I would like to get her something bigger to chew on. Any personal recommendations for a lab retriever? I'm planning on getting another antler but am open to suggestions.
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Dec 3, 2013 00:02
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so it looks like I might be getting an older chi (or chi mix, no one's quite sure - it's a bigger chi - about 7-8#) Right now, the dog is living with my best friend, who got the dog when his friend wound up having to move due to a divorce. However the dog is not problem free. The former owner's ex-husband obviously used to abuse the dog, as it's first response to anyone coming at it is to roll over in submission. Luckily it doesn't piss itself when it's afraid, but it does roll over, and takes forever to warm up to you. (once he's used to you he's all over you like a little snuggle bunny) is there any way to help teach this dog that hey, most humans are cool, you just got one of the few assholes? Or is it just constant positivity and having to be really wary on walks? That's not the big problem, though. The big problem, and one I'd like to get sorted out while he's still living with my friend, is that the dog does not eat dog food. the previous owner spoiled the poo poo out of him, as she was the stereotype of the valium and vicodin-induced-coma housewife who had the cute little purse dog who ate...whatever she was eating. As a result, the dog does not eat dog food. Not kibble, not wet food, went two days without eating until my friend caved and gave the guy some bacon. How the hell do I break this? Ideally before he comes to stay with me full time? (right now I'm just waiting on mom's doc to sign off on a "therapy dog"/"companionship animal" since...the dog would be theraputic, and force her 70 year old rear end out of the house twice a day to walk it when I'm not home, since technically our complex doesn't allow dogs. Even though it seems like every fourth neighbor has a therapy dog...) I really don't want to put this dog through the stress of a second move in 3 months and having to change his diet all at the same time, but I really don't want to encourage the "people food" problem he has. And I know chis are awful about this coz my mom's best friend has one, and he's just as bad when she lets him have people food with the whole instigating a hunger strike unless they get something better than kibble thing. The dog has a ton of bad habits that came from being the cute little purse dog, but luckily the worst ones are all nonexistant. Bro is housebroken (and trained for pads too, which is good because he hates going outside in the cold), doesn't mind sweaters (which are drat near necessary in south dakota in winter when he does go out), is calm when you leave him - though there's a bit of seperation anxiety when you first leave he doesn't chew/destroy when left alone, and only really alert barks. He'll yap when someone new comes in the house, but quiets down when you tell him to quit it. so it's not terrible problems, especially given that he was a cute little purse dog, but there's also a lot I'd like to fix, seeing as he's only about 5-6, which means I'm going to have him for a solid 5-6 more years at minimum.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:49
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When is the best time to put my puppys collar on? He is about 8 weeks old now and he gets depressed and lethargic whenever he wears a collar or harness. He will have to wear a collar permanently for his tags when we get them. Is it best to put it on and then tough it out and not give in? For the record he makes this face when he has to wear one 
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Dec 3, 2013 05:05
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Are you making wearing the collar/harness a fun experience? Collar/harness going on = treats/play/praise/petting/whatever he really wants at the moment.
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Dec 3, 2013 05:38
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Kind of, we've done a bit of training with treats to introduce the harness so he doesnt struggle when it goes on but he seems to lose enthusiasm for life. I will start giving him more treats for wearing it and walking around with me. Play/praise/petting dont have much affect when he is wearing it though. He is also harder to train when collared because he will offer fewer behaviours.
Uncle Lina fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 05:47
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Speaking of purse dogs  Nah, seriously, I have a chi who's about 5 months old now, and the lil fella takes to people once he gets close to them, but from a distance will alert bark at them. It's all about conditioning, I guess. Also try mixing kibble with people food? I don't have any good advice, sorry  My question, and I know y'all are about to judge me: does anyone have a little purse/carrier thing for their small dogs? I live in the northern wastelands of Canada and it's pretty silly to make my pup walk on the cold ground any more than he has to, but I'd still like to take him out visiting/sneak him into places where dogs aren't technically allowed. A cursory Google search took me to Mungo and Mod's Pod bag, which is hella fashionable but also wtf levels of expensive. Should I just cave and get a lovely one from Petsmart or are there less obnoxious options that won't put me in debt for years?
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Dec 3, 2013 06:41
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Clandestine! posted:Speaking of purse dogs I think the least obnoxious option would be to not sneak your dog into places where dogs aren't allowed. Edit: I'm not being catty, seriously please don't do that. It's hella rude to say the least. If you want to keep him warm on walks, get him a sweater and boots, or a sweater and musher's wax (gunk you smear on their feet so they don't get ice/snow balls between their toes), or for ultimate dogembaressment, a dog stroller. an expert fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 10:50
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