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First winter with my 2003 325xi and since it's gotten cold out I've had some starting issues. It doesn't start the first time I start the ignition but does on the second. I've also noticed it's been idling a little rougher. From what I've read it looks like it could be the fuel regulator. I've also read something about it running richer when it's cold and someone said switching from premium to regular fluid might help with that. Seems pretty straight forward but was wondering if anyone else had any suggestions or experience.
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Nov 27, 2013 04:43
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Stupid Post Maker posted:First winter with my 2003 325xi and since it's gotten cold out I've had some starting issues. It doesn't start the first time I start the ignition but does on the second. I've also noticed it's been idling a little rougher. From what I've read it looks like it could be the fuel regulator. I've also read something about it running richer when it's cold and someone said switching from premium to regular fluid might help with that. Seems pretty straight forward but was wondering if anyone else had any suggestions or experience. I'd say you're on the right track minus swapping to regular. If you have a scan tool look at your long term fuel trim, I've been battling a vacuum issue and have similar symptoms, so you may be experiencing the same thing. This is the definitive thread about rough idle/vacuum leaks, super helpful bunch over there too.
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Nov 27, 2013 04:55
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Viper_3000 posted:How dare you not post more pics of that beautiful thing. You'll have to do with another photo from the initial viewing.  It's snowing like crazy now. And the M3 will be in hibernation till spring. Looking to do the sub frame reinforcements (RTAB pocket and rear shock mount, maybe front subframe reinforcement) and potentially treadlock the oil pump nut. I want worry free track time. Right now I'm looking to source some elipsoids as the original lenses are faded, and do some sort of bluetooth integration on a stock head unit. (C33 is what I have, am willing to go to C43) Would love some input on people's favorite solutions to both problems. I haven't come across any good solutions for blutooth integration on stockish headunits for E36s. Oh, alcantara vaders.  And an original bill of sale from new for 64k CDN.  IN 1998 MONEY.
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Nov 27, 2013 05:08
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Ziploc posted:And an original bill of sale from new for 64k CDN. wut. I know you guys in Canada have stupid car prices, but that is insanity.Incredibly nice car, though, enjoy it!
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Nov 27, 2013 05:42
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 I want to do this. Tell me if I'm all wrong. I've never purchased winter tires before, and oh my god that price (before tax and shipping too!). I can save like 200 getting 17's, but I want black wheels on my vehicle, and I figure I could buy a set here for winter, and then buy new 18" all season/summer tires before it all melts. Then maybe sell my 17's?
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Nov 27, 2013 06:23
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Binge posted:
You want smaller tires for winter. Especially if you have snow, you should be getting 16s or 15s. You want the tire to be more narrow, so it cuts thru the snow better and so that the force of the car is focused on a smaller contact patch. Just find a pair of lovely OEM 16s on craigslist. I've seen 3 sets locally go for less than $200. (If you really want them to be black, then plastidip them.) Or buy steelies. AI LOVES steelies for winter.
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Nov 27, 2013 06:34
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Tirerack says steel tires don't exist for my car because they won't clear my brakes? I've considered dipping my current wheels but I wasn't sure if that would be really lame or not.
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Nov 27, 2013 06:45
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^^e;fb^^Binge posted:
I'm a bit confused - are you looking to get a set of new 18s with winter tires on them, swapping summers onto those wheels once winter is over, and then selling your existing 17" wheels and tires? If you've got the storage space, much easier to get a dedicated set of winter wheels, so you don't have to worry about breaking down / installing tires every season. For dedicated winter wheels / tires, I'd skip the 18s and get the smallest wheels that'll still clear the brakes. Can't always see potholes and other poo poo under snow. Thicker sidewalls are your friend if you happen to hit some unseen pothole / rock / curb / whatever at speed. If the wheels are only for winter anyway they don't have to be fancy, and you can always plastidip them black if needed. Maybe even pick up a set of used OEM BMW alloys cheap. Also, if you can live with the warning light on the dash for TPMS, I'd save a couple bills and skip all of that poo poo and just keep an eye on tire pressures the old-fashioned way for the few months the car will be wearing those wheels. Unless the TPMS system is incredibly annoying or something when it's alerting, I'm completely unfamiliar with it. I'd avoid any plan that involved me having to sell a set of wheels, especially if it's something I bought new. Wheels are a pain in the rear end to sell unless they happen to be super desirable for some reason. They are expensive and difficult to ship, so you more than likely would have to find a local buyer. Even so, you'll get pennies on the dollar for them in most cases. Are you looking to upgrade your OEM wheels? Maybe just get winter tires to fit those and have them mounted locally, and buy your upgrade wheels / tires in the spring?
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Nov 27, 2013 06:57
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Yeah that's exactly why I love posting in here (and being an idiot too). I'm doing it backwards. I should get snow tires on the current 17's, and buy summer tires/wheels next year as 18's. Keep my current tires as an emergency or something (they're run-flats). I really didn't want to spend 1500+ dollars on this right now so thank you. The sensor just dings when the car turns on, and leaves an icon in the center display. It's not a big deal, i'll weight that decision when I find some tires. edit - I'm in upstate NY, and winter is supposed to be pretty serious this year.
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Nov 27, 2013 07:19
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Binge posted:Yeah that's exactly why I love posting in here (and being an idiot too). I'm doing it backwards. I should get snow tires on the current 17's, and buy summer tires/wheels next year as 18's. Keep my current tires as an emergency or something (they're run-flats). I really didn't want to spend 1500+ dollars on this right now so thank you. Yeah, you should buy winter tires. I live in Nashville and I'm going to look at getting a set of winter tires/wheels next year even though we have mild winters. We don't get much snow, but the ice here can be horrible and the city sucks at salting/sanding the roads in my hilly, curvy, suburban neighborhood. That, and I want to put a set of Michelin Pilot SS's on the car for the spring/summer/fall.
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Nov 27, 2013 07:49
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Binge posted:Yeah that's exactly why I love posting in here (and being an idiot too). I'm doing it backwards. I should get snow tires on the current 17's, and buy summer tires/wheels next year as 18's. Keep my current tires as an emergency or something (they're run-flats). I really didn't want to spend 1500+ dollars on this right now so thank you. On a 335, you can't go smaller than 17" wheels due to the brake sizes. Get good snow tires on your current wheels. I like those Blizzak WS-70 tires, I actually have them on right now. They were fantastic when I lived in Vermont, and they're a bit of overkill down here in Philly, but my summers were dead, and I had these already. If you're in Upstate NY, get those Blizzaks in 17 and never worry about your car in winter, just other people! The other thing to consider is calling local tire shops. The one I used a lot in Vermont priced their tires/mounting/etc to be pretty close to the same as ordering online, shipping, and mounting. Also, plasti-dipped my winter wheels (cheapy Sport A7 from Tirerack) after they started corroding. Plasti-dip definitely lasted a full winter.
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Nov 27, 2013 12:56
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Ziploc posted:
You don't want those lovely cloth seats. I will trade you my luxurious leather vaders for them and even pay for shipping  For headlights, look on eBay for user "tainik". 400 to your door for OEM projectors with new lenses. He includes the connectors so you can buy an adapter kit from another site and create a true plug and play harness.
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Nov 27, 2013 13:38
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Viper_3000 posted:Yeah, you should buy winter tires. I live in Nashville and I'm going to look at getting a set of winter tires/wheels next year even though we have mild winters. We don't get much snow, but the ice here can be horrible and the city sucks at salting/sanding the roads in my hilly, curvy, suburban neighborhood. If you're going to be dealing with ice, pay special attention to the tread on the winter tires you're going to buy. Some are built for snow (chunkier tread), other for ice (lots of siping) and others are a little of both. For ice I'd choose a tire with a less aggressive tread but a lot of siping and a soft compound. Tire rack is great for looking at treads before ordering and you'll be surprised at how much winter tires can vary in design.
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Nov 27, 2013 13:56
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Viper_3000 posted:I'd say you're on the right track minus swapping to regular. If you have a scan tool look at your long term fuel trim, I've been battling a vacuum issue and have similar symptoms, so you may be experiencing the same thing. This is the definitive thread about rough idle/vacuum leaks, super helpful bunch over there too. Thanks, I'll read through it all when I have time. But after buying regular gas last night the car started up normally before and after work despite this being the coldest day. Don't know whether it's a coincidence or not, but we'll see.
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Nov 27, 2013 21:50
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Crustashio posted:You don't want those lovely cloth seats. I will trade you my luxurious leather vaders for them and even pay for shipping Are those the ones with the horizontal lines in the glass? Bleh. I must be the only person that's bothered by those. Too bad because they're great headlights otherwise.
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Nov 27, 2013 22:33
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Look a hell of a lot better than the impossible to keep clear plastic US headlights. The light output is also so much better. If you do any amount of night driving in an e36 it is easily worth the cost.
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Nov 28, 2013 01:19
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Crustashio posted:For headlights, look on eBay for user "tainik". 400 to your door for OEM projectors with new lenses. He includes the connectors so you can buy an adapter kit from another site and create a true plug and play harness. I wonder if the ZKWs have the uptick on the right for lighting up roadsigns. Also, I hate you for pointing me to that store. Since I found this: 
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Nov 28, 2013 01:29
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8ender posted:...BMW straight sixes consume oil as they get older. Oh god the tires. gently caress UPS. There, that's out of the way. Wait, no it isn't. SERIOUSLY, gently caress UPS RIGHT IN THE rear end WITH A BROOM HANDLE. gently caress. Sorry about the rant. Tires. I bought a nice set of General Altimax's, studded (because Saskatchewan) from TireRack, who are all kinds of good as far as I can tell. Except for shipping them by UPS, which resulted in the tires arriving here in town but not being available for pick-up by me at their depot for stupid loving UPS reasons involving their incompetence. On my way home from my failed attempt to pick up the tires, the temperature needle swung over into the glowing red and I bailed out of gridlock traffic into the nearest parking lot. It's supposed to be a 3-way re-arrangement - take off the summer wheels and put them into my carriers and put them in the back seat / trunk. Put the new tires on the steelies that are currently covered in worn-out winter rubber, then put those onto the car so I can drive in something like a straight line. Chinatown posted:Seriously AAA is the best money you will spend on your car. I probably get a tow once a year (flat/something took a poo poo) and thats basically my membership fee right there. I also do as much DMV related things as possible at their local office. Crustashio posted:Look a hell of a lot better than the impossible to keep clear plastic US headlights. The light output is also so much better. If you do any amount of night driving in an e36 it is easily worth the cost.
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Nov 28, 2013 01:35
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ExecuDork posted:This discussion is helpful, my e36 328is is at my mechanic's, one of the issues is a tendency to stall on cold starts unless I give it some gas - like hold it at 2K RPM - for the first 30 seconds or so. It's also about 3000km overdue on an oil change, which I previously hadn't thought would be related. poo poo dude I have the EXACT same issue with my e36 M3, I haven't gotten a chance to really look into it but I figured it was a dirty idle control valve. Did your mechanic tell you what the problem was? Cause I really want to get it fixed.
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Nov 28, 2013 01:39
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Ziploc posted:I wonder if the ZKWs have the uptick on the right for lighting up roadsigns. They do. Here is the light pattern from mine when I was testing the wiring. ZKW on the left, NA on the right. And the aiming is off because I just had the headlight sitting on top of the other one.  Since you have a canadian M3 you should have the US 3 spoke, which is actually a smaller diameter than the euro wheel. Once in awhile he has the US 3 spoke done in alcantara which is what I really want. ExecuDork posted:As far as I know I've got bone stock headlights, the car was originally sold in Canada - the speedo doesn't even have a hint of miles. I've been OK at night, but if there's an option out there that's much better I'm interested. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-E36-M3-Z...&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 You can build a PNP wiring harness if he includes the connectors. There are also DEPO projectors for about half the price, but the adjusters will probably break the first time you try to aim them.
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Nov 28, 2013 01:45
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That dude owes you some commission. (Thanks for the info on the steering wheel)
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Nov 28, 2013 02:02
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Can you swap e30 and e36 steering wheels? I love the M wheel on my e30 325is and would like to put on in my e36.
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Nov 28, 2013 02:17
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Splines don't match. There is however an e36 mtech2 wheel that is identical to the e30 one.
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Nov 28, 2013 02:40
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Popete posted:poo poo dude I have the EXACT same issue with my e36 M3, I haven't gotten a chance to really look into it but I figured it was a dirty idle control valve. Did your mechanic tell you what the problem was? Cause I really want to get it fixed. Crustashio posted:http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-E36-M3-Z...&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1
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Nov 28, 2013 04:53
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Ziploc posted:I wonder if the ZKWs have the uptick on the right for lighting up roadsigns. I got the leather wrapped version of this wheel from tainik a while back to replace the grandpa 4 spoke in my 840. I strongly considered the alcantera, but was worried it would get icky fast. No regrets, the wheel has been awesome and feels great  I think I posted pics of it in this thread actually.e: I did. Found my post: Black88GTA posted:Cross posting from the "what I did to my car today" thread. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Nov 28, 2013 |
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Nov 28, 2013 05:20
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That looks downright amazing. Much much more modern and clean!
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Nov 28, 2013 08:35
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Black88GTA posted:I got the leather wrapped version of this wheel from tainik a while back to replace the grandpa 4 spoke in my 840. Oh poo poo son, didn't know we had a goon with an 8 series. I demand some more pics of that.  In other news re: GOD drat COOLING SYSTEMs, I've got this list drawn up of parts to order, does this look like everything?  (no expansion tank cap since I'm probably going to order the 1.2 bar cap from German Auto Solutions along with a preventative DISA rebuild kit)
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Nov 28, 2013 18:04
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The last two pages of this thread have been 100% easier to read, more helpful and more awesome than any of the BMW specific forums could ever hope to be. Carry on, Goons. 
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Nov 28, 2013 19:09
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HotCanadianChick posted:Oh poo poo son, didn't know we had a goon with an 8 series. I demand some more pics of that. You're missing the lower radiator hose. Honestly this kit is cheaper and I think includes everything you are ordering: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-323Ci-M52_2.5L/Engine/Cooling/ES263517/ (It's also all OEM parts like you wanted) I think it lacks a coolant temp sensor so you'd need to add that. EDIT: I hate you all. I didn't know this existed until today and now I need it even though my car still has a vacuum leak to chase down. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Nov 28, 2013 |
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Nov 28, 2013 19:18
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Viper_3000 posted:You're missing the lower radiator hose. Doh, yeah a friend just pointed that out. I had it there earlier, but must've accidentally removed it from the list when I removed a couple other extraneous items. quote:Honestly this kit is cheaper and I think includes everything you are ordering: Only reason I haven't just ordered the ECS kit already is that they can come with either a Graf or a Saleri pump, and after all the people having problems with that bad batch of Graf pumps, I'd rather not roll the dice. quote:EDIT: I hate you all. I didn't know this existed until today and now I need it even though my car still has a vacuum leak to chase down. Just keep in mind you'll need to clean it frequently to keep it from pilling and shedding, otherwise you'll end up doing what most ZHP owners do and replacing it with a leather wheel. Which reminds me, I still need to see about selling my original alcantara wheel. e: SuperDucky posted:The last two pages of this thread have been 100% easier to read, more helpful and more awesome than any of the BMW specific forums could ever hope to be. Carry on, Goons. This is why I'm asking Q's about getting the parts to overhaul my cooling system here rather than on BF.com or E46fanatics.
Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 28, 2013 |
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Nov 28, 2013 20:23
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HotCanadianChick posted:Only reason I haven't just ordered the ECS kit already is that they can come with either a Graf or a Saleri pump, and after all the people having problems with that bad batch of Graf pumps, I'd rather not roll the dice. I'd just shoot them an e-mail. ECS has always been really easy to deal with and has good customer support when I've e-mailed them with questions. If nothing else, price this out at OEMBimmerparts.com Tuner is a great company but they tend to be overpriced for most everything. I think I got out the door for under $500 when I did my refresh buying parts from oembimmerparts.
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Nov 28, 2013 21:40
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Ok so got the car checked by the best BMW specialist in my area: 1 - No accidents: Master tech said its highly unlikely that the car was in an accident, the issue with the bonnet was paint fade, he said is not a big deal. 2 - Subframe: perfect condition, he said car was not abused and the bushings and all supports are all in great condition and subframe looks very good. 3 - GDCS: He said I should budget for a whole kit, everything looks good as far a hoses but he says only fools trust the water pump. 4 - Transmission: no codes stored, shifts smoothly, and car pulls strong, no issues so far, he said I need to change ATF. 5 - Oscillating idle could be an issue, not a deal breaker but will have to be fixed, I have to change oil, spark plugs and the crank cover gasket needs to be replaced as is leaking a small amount of oil. 6 - Rear break light was a bulb, harness looks good and appears to have all new grounds and cables. His verdict: Buy it as long as I have US$1,200 for all the backlog maintenance which he will do for me, including changing all the belts and tensioners. 1,500 is not an issue at all for me, and the car will be bought cash, no finance required. I'm leaning towards yes, your opinions?
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Nov 28, 2013 22:23
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mulligan posted:Ok so got the car checked by the best BMW specialist in my area: What was the check engine light for? I still think you need to at least test drive a manual before you commit to a SMG. These cars are just so much more fun to drive when you can row thru the gears.
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Nov 28, 2013 22:36
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Viper_3000 posted:What was the check engine light for? is a 330ci, so is not the SMG, I tried a manual M3 and it ruled so hard, prices are out of this world. Check engine was cat / emission related, after being cleared it never came up.
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Nov 28, 2013 22:45
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mulligan posted:Ok so got the car checked by the best BMW specialist in my area: Did he actually lower the subframe and look at the mounting points? Subframes never fail, it's the mounting points that tear. If he wasn't absolutely specific I would confirm.
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Nov 28, 2013 23:22
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Crustashio posted:Did he actually lower the subframe and look at the mounting points? Subframes never fail, it's the mounting points that tear. If he wasn't absolutely specific I would confirm. Yes, the mounting points looked great, no tears or cracks or lines.
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Nov 28, 2013 23:50
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mulligan posted:is a 330ci, so is not the SMG, I tried a manual M3 and it ruled so hard, prices are out of this world. I've always felt like purchases like this were a misstep on the road to what you want, and waiting is preferable to buying a compromise.
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Nov 29, 2013 01:34
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Crustashio posted:They do. Here is the light pattern from mine when I was testing the wiring. ZKW on the left, NA on the right. And the aiming is off because I just had the headlight sitting on top of the other one. Do all ZKWs uptick on the right?
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Nov 29, 2013 03:12
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More of a general question, but its for a BMW and this is the thread I follow so... Wheel weights. I noticed my summer wheels are missing weights, they fell off over the years. They are the type that are a continuous piece of metal cut to size. How bad of an idea is it to try to pick up this type of wheel weight and reapply? I can see the markings from the missing weights, so I have a rough idea of the proper size, but no actual markings on the remaining weights to determine the actual weight measurement. Better idea to just get the set rebalanced?
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Nov 29, 2013 03:31
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Dyscrasia posted:More of a general question, but its for a BMW and this is the thread I follow so... That's a pretty terrible idea. Just have it done right.
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Nov 29, 2013 04:01
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