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I've got a sweet stout that has been fermenting for a couple weeks now. OG was 1.074, right now the gravity is at 1.028. Does that seem reasonable? I was expecting a little bit lower but I don't know what all goes into what the FG reading should be. Recipe for reference: 1lb black patent malt 12 oz crystal malt 75L 6lb pale extract 1lb light dry extract 1lb lactose 1lb brown sugar 3.2oz molasses 2oz cascade hops Jose Valasquez fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Dec 1, 2013 |
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Dec 1, 2013 20:05
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| # ? May 21, 2024 03:48 |
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Well you have almost 3 pounds of stuff that doesn't really ferment out. I'd guess 1.028 sounds right.
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Dec 1, 2013 20:09
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Midorka posted:Well you have almost 3 pounds of stuff that doesn't really ferment out. I'd guess 1.028 sounds right. Which 3lbs of stuff? I know the lactose but I was under the impression everything else would ferment normally
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Dec 1, 2013 20:15
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From my understanding specialty grains are far less fermentable than base grains. So that would make the Crystal and Black Patent.
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Dec 1, 2013 20:19
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Many homebrewers think of crystal/caramel malts as adding only or mostly unfermentable sugars. While this makes sense when steeping them for an extract beer, I’d always wondered how dextrins added to an enzymatic mash would survive when much larger starches contributed by base malts do not. Over on HomeBrewTalk, Nilo posted results from experiments he did showing that crystal malts (especially paler varieties) are not a great way to decrease wort fermentability. Steeping crystal malt alone resulted in a wort that was only 40-50% fermentable with S-04. However, a mash with equal parts of pale 2-row and crystal lowered the fermentability (compared to 100% base malt) by only about 3% for C10, 11% for C40, and 13% for C120 (significantly higher attenuation than would be expected by averaging the attenuation of the tests with crystal and 2-row alone). His results suggest that using a more reasonable 15% crystal malt would only result in a reduction of the attenuation by 1% for C10, 3% for C40, and 4% for C120. Not insignificant, but only an addition of .0005-.002 to the final gravity for a beer that starts at 1.050. http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2013/03/technical-notes-on-fermentability.html?m=1
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Dec 1, 2013 20:26
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Jose Valasquez posted:I've got a sweet stout that has been fermenting for a couple weeks now. OG was 1.074, right now the gravity is at 1.028. What was your yeast (and if liquid did you make a starter), and what were temps? looks like around 62% apparent attenuation now, to hit 70% you'd have to get to 1.020 or so. Between the lactose etc and an extract-based recipe you might be pretty near done.
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Dec 1, 2013 22:15
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Myron Baloney posted:What was your yeast (and if liquid did you make a starter), and what were temps? looks like around 62% apparent attenuation now, to hit 70% you'd have to get to 1.020 or so. Between the lactose etc and an extract-based recipe you might be pretty near done. Safale S-04 which has a 72-75% attenuation. It was kept around 66 for fermentation. According to BeerSmith the lactose made up about 0.007 of the gravity, so if my math is right 1.028 is pretty close to what is expected
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Dec 1, 2013 23:43
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I finally took the step forward and ordered my kegerator on Black Friday. Beverage Factory had the one I was looking at on sale and then an extra $50 off. I went with the Kegco 309 dual tap. I'm going to modify it to build it into a row of cabinets and put a butcher block counter on top of it and run the lines up through it. I need to make some kind of PVC collar and insulate it in spray foam so I don't lose temp efficiency. I upgrade to the perlick faucets while I was at it as well. Now I just need to have my mom order a couple kegs as my Christmas gift and get this thing running. I'm planning on finally moving to a BIAB all grain process with my first kegged batch.
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Dec 2, 2013 00:22
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Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain? My dad's made a batch but it wasn't ready when I was there for Thanksgiving. It sounds like it has a lot of promise for those of us who don't really have the room for a multiple-step all-grain setup. e: I also have no drat idea what to do for SS, someone's getting like $100 of stuff Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 02:18
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Might order and brew with this completely on a whim because it sounds crazy: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_21_93_70&products_id=12792
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Dec 2, 2013 03:10
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain?
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Dec 2, 2013 03:28
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain? My dad's made a batch but it wasn't ready when I was there for Thanksgiving. It sounds like it has a lot of promise for those of us who don't really have the room for a multiple-step all-grain setup. I've done a couple batches after previously only doing extract. It's really really easy and takes minimal investment. The beers I've made doing BIAB are far far superior to those that I made with extract. The two catches with BIAB are that your efficiency will take a hit (I usually get somewhere in the mid-60s) and it's hard to do really big beers. Of course, if you just want something strong, you can make a strong Belgian or IPA and throw in a bunch of sugar, thus keeping in line with the style, and likewise you could throw in some extract for an imperial stout or something. I heartily recommend it - it's a really easy way to greatly improve your output.
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Dec 2, 2013 04:17
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain? My dad's made a batch but it wasn't ready when I was there for Thanksgiving. It sounds like it has a lot of promise for those of us who don't really have the room for a multiple-step all-grain setup. Brew in a bag is great if you're doing small batches or otherwise using less than 10lbs of grain. Personally I think it gets a bit impractical if you go much beyond that though.
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Dec 2, 2013 04:17
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The exact method I'm reading about involves having a bag bigger than the pot that you're using, and you pretty much line the inside of the pot, then you dump your grain in and pretty much let it float when it hits the desired temperature. I assume that stuffing it all into a normal grain bag and them plunging the bag is the method that makes 10lbs+ really difficult? This way seems like it would work really well with any sized batch. My dad did a batch and said he got it to 152, then put the grain in, the lid on, and wrapped it in a coat, and after its time it was still 149. The site I'm reading doesn't use a coat and say it's only a degree drop. I'm going to have to get around to getting that plastic container outlined in the Australian cooling method (which is "dump the still hot wort into the container and let it cool down overnight") and funny enough, BIAB is also cited as being an Australian method. I'll combine the two for maximum efficiency. One other thing I just remembered; the site also contradicts my Australian cooling method by saying that the beer will be too cloudy if you don't cold crash it right after the boil; I've always cold crashed after fermentation without an issue. Are they just being weird or is that actually true (IE does cold crashing after boil work better than cold crashing after fermentation)? e: Hell I think the reason they're both called the Australian method is because it's the same guys who posted about it first. Nice. Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 05:18
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain? My dad's made a batch but it wasn't ready when I was there for Thanksgiving. It sounds like it has a lot of promise for those of us who don't really have the room for a multiple-step all-grain setup. edit: No experience with no-chill, I'm way too impatient to put more waiting time than necessary into brewing. Myron Baloney fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 05:22
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:The exact method I'm reading about involves having a bag bigger than the pot that you're using, and you pretty much line the inside of the pot, then you dump your grain in and pretty much let it float when it hits the desired temperature. I assume that stuffing it all into a normal grain bag and them plunging the bag is the method that makes 10lbs+ really difficult? This way seems like it would work really well with any sized batch. Using a basket with a handle also allows you to do this:  ...so that the grain can finish draining into the boil kettle while you're bringing it up to a boil (or into a separate pot like I'm doing in the picture). (I'd suggest using a better tripod than the crappy one I have if you're going to do this.) P.S. be mindful of your immersion chiller lines, or else you get this:  It still holds water, amazingly enough.
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Dec 2, 2013 05:59
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nmfree posted:It still holds water, amazingly enough. Until the worst possible time; then it will fail.
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Dec 2, 2013 06:04
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Jo3sh posted:Until the worst possible time; then it will fail. 
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Dec 2, 2013 06:08
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what happened to your line that made it do that? Regular use?
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Dec 2, 2013 15:18
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Marshmallow Blue posted:what happened to your line that made it do that? Regular use? Probably got too close to a still-hot pot/burner
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Dec 2, 2013 15:24
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I've been brewing for at least 6 years and I've managed to never make a blow off tube until now. Just hooked some tubing up to the main body of a three-piece airlock and put the end of the tube into a growler of sanitizer. Easy. Inertia is a terrible reason not to improve your process, glad I finally bothered. Before this I would just put fermenters in a utility sink and clean them up a couple times a day. The beer is a Biere de Noel, which I read about in Farmhouse Ales, looking forward to it.
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Dec 2, 2013 17:43
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Probably got too close to a still-hot pot/burner
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Dec 2, 2013 21:15
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I had that happen on the return line and spray scalding water everywhere, that was sweet as helll
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Dec 2, 2013 21:20
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I didn't get an email regarding the SA homebrew Secret Santa. I thought I had signed up, Can you check on it Paladine? Email david.doucette_1989@yahoo.com
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Dec 2, 2013 21:26
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Does anyone have any experience with the Brew In A Bag method of all-grain? My dad's made a batch but it wasn't ready when I was there for Thanksgiving. It sounds like it has a lot of promise for those of us who don't really have the room for a multiple-step all-grain setup. I do all my beers BIAB now, seems like a good intermediate step from extract to all-grain - cut my ingredient costs in half, added about 1.5 hours to my brew time, totally totally worth it. e: for a little more content: I do 14-15 lb batches finishing around 5 gallons (for kegging), I use 1 very large fine mesh bag, I heat my water up to around 175*F, cut the heat, clip my bag to the sides of the top of the pot using metal clamps, stir in my grain, and then wrap my kettle in old jackets - temps around here in winter range from 0*C to 10*C and I rarely lose more than 1*F from my mash temp over an hour using this method. OG's and FG's have been pretty good, although I haven't bothered to check my efficiency, but I'm making good beer still (according to friends, family, brew club, and myself) around 6.5% usually depending on what I'm making - BIAB has also let me make beers that I wouldn't be able to easily make using extract. JawKnee fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 23:54
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Does anyone here use a corny as a bottling vessel? I'm thinking that if I add some priming solution to a keg and rack my beer in, I could drop the pressure to 2-3psi and put a bottling wand on the beer-out post. Then I could bottle, say, a third of the batch for aging and let the rest naturally carb in the keg.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:56
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JawKnee posted:I do all my beers BIAB now, seems like a good intermediate step from extract to all-grain - cut my ingredient costs in half, added about 1.5 hours to my brew time, totally totally worth it. I tried a few BIAB all-grain things a number of years ago, and I found efficiency to be not great on larger grain bills. On the one hand, it produced the best lager I've ever made(kind of an accidental amber pilsner, but it was awesome...I was very sad when that keg ran out), but on the other hand I also made an accidental michelob ultra...starting gravity was like 1.03something, and it ended up like 2% alcohol or something ridiculous like that. It also tasted like slightly grainy and hoppy water, so it got tossed rather than waste a keg. Part of the problem there was experimenting with different ways to sparge...also, my friends and I used to get pretty tanked while brewing, and we were really half-assed about everything, haha! In other news, I'm finally getting to do my first return-to-all-grain beer as I write this! When I asked my friends what I should make next, they unanimously answered "that honey wheat", so I've adapted that old extract recipe to all grain. Hopefully it doesn't suck!
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Dec 3, 2013 02:31
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internet celebrity posted:Does anyone here use a corny as a bottling vessel? I'm thinking that if I add some priming solution to a keg and rack my beer in, I could drop the pressure to 2-3psi and put a bottling wand on the beer-out post. Then I could bottle, say, a third of the batch for aging and let the rest naturally carb in the keg. I've done that before, it works pretty well. A bottling wand actually fits perfectly into one of those black party taps, too. You'll end up with a bit more yeast in the keg, but once it settles it's not a problem unless you move the keg around.
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Dec 3, 2013 02:40
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BLARGHLE posted:I also made an accidental michelob ultra...starting gravity was like 1.03something, and it ended up like 2% alcohol or something ridiculous like that. It also tasted like slightly grainy and hoppy water, so it got tossed rather than waste a keg. Out of curiosity, anyone know what would happen if you took something like this and re-brewed it? Put the finished crappy beer back in the kettle, added some extract, boiled and hopped it, and refermented? I can't imagine anything wonderful, but it's weird enough that at least one home brewer has to have tried it.
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Dec 3, 2013 02:44
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Toebone posted:Out of curiosity, anyone know what would happen if you took something like this and re-brewed it? Put the finished crappy beer back in the kettle, added some extract, boiled and hopped it, and refermented? I can't imagine anything wonderful, but it's weird enough that at least one home brewer has to have tried it. I kinda feel like that would be throwing good beer after bad. Might as well just make a new brew, especially since you're going to end up boiling off most of what little alcohol was in there in the first place, and there isn't much in the way of flavor or fermentables left in the original product...pretty much just recycling the water
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Dec 3, 2013 02:52
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The first thing that would happen is all the alcohol would boil off and you'd create a few trillion yeast corpses that might not taste great. I wouldn't try mashing or sparging with it because the PH might get really out of whack. Cold distilling or cooking is my go-to with bad batches. E:fb
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Dec 3, 2013 02:56
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internet celebrity posted:Does anyone here use a corny as a bottling vessel? I'm thinking that if I add some priming solution to a keg and rack my beer in, I could drop the pressure to 2-3psi and put a bottling wand on the beer-out post. Then I could bottle, say, a third of the batch for aging and let the rest naturally carb in the keg. Yes. I do that only carb with co2 and reverse of you. I get board of beer or just want to keep a gallon to so, then take it to be bottled. Simply offgas, party tap with a bottle filler on the end works quite well. I've noticed with my tap though it needs to be in the 'squeezed open' position instead of the 'always open' for less air/foam for whatever reason. As a side note. I've also tried to do the ghetto 'bottle filler' version with a rubber stopper and it was always always way more trouble than it was worth.
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Dec 3, 2013 03:49
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Jacobey000 posted:I've also tried to do the ghetto 'bottle filler' version with a rubber stopper and it was always always way more trouble than it was worth.
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Dec 3, 2013 03:52
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Sorry, another BIAB question. Where can I find a big enough bag?
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Dec 3, 2013 04:53
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Sorry, another BIAB question. Where can I find a big enough bag? I got mine at my LHBS. It's plenty big enough for my 2.5 gallon batches, but I think the package said it would work for 5-6 gallon batches. Otherwise I bet Northern Brewer or pretty much any other site would have them.
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Dec 3, 2013 05:01
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I didn't get an email regarding the SA homebrew Secret Santa. I thought I had signed up, Can you check on it Paladine? It went to that address on Thurs, I resent it. Check your spam folder.
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Dec 3, 2013 05:22
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Paladine_PSoT posted:It went to that address on Thurs, I resent it. Check your spam folder. Speaking of HBSS, when is the due date or whatever? I have three things I'm bottling this week, at least two of which I plan to pass along to my santee.
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Dec 3, 2013 05:39
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Sorry, another BIAB question. Where can I find a big enough bag?
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Dec 3, 2013 06:28
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Sorry, another BIAB question. Where can I find a big enough bag? I got a pretty drat big one at mylhbs, but that menards thing looks pretty good too, if you're using it less like a bag and more like a big strainer.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:50
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| # ? May 21, 2024 03:48 |
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Dead Inside Darwin posted:Sorry, another BIAB question. Where can I find a big enough bag? For what it's worth, I went with this guy here: http://www.bagbrewer.com/order-a-bag.html Been using it over a year and have zero complaints.
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Dec 3, 2013 07:49
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