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like all things, try rodinal 1:100 stand development for 60 minutes, with 30 seconds of agitation at the start
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Dec 2, 2013 06:42
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Spedman posted:Another Ilford developer to try with pushing is DD-X, I rather like it. Seconding DD-X. It's expensive as poo poo here, but it makes even Delta 3200's grain seem lovely and subdued. (35mm need not apply) Also Rodinal stand is my "I'm being lazy" go-to solution. It's not that optimal for pushing stuff tho. I can do an estimated one stop comma something push - by doing stand with 1 minute agitation at the start and two inversions at the 30 minute mark. Rest is stand.
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Dec 2, 2013 06:58
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Where is the best place to order Rodinal in the USA and how long will it take to get here. Also, should I look at other paper developers? I'd like a developer like Rodinal for paper where it has a long shelf life in concentrate and I can just mix it down when I do printing. Fixer I'll just resign to replacing when I have a stretch without doing developing/print work.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:04
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Mr. Powers posted:Where is the best place to order Rodinal in the USA and how long will it take to get here. Also, should I look at other paper developers? I'd like a developer like Rodinal for paper where it has a long shelf life in concentrate and I can just mix it down when I do printing. I order my Rodinal from freestyle. It ships from California and it has to go ground shipping, so it depends how far away you live from there. Usually takes like 3-4 days for me to get it in Nashville. I don't know how well it works for paper though.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:43
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Specifically, you want R09 One Shot, not speziale.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:53
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Mr. Powers posted:Where is the best place to order Rodinal in the USA and how long will it take to get here. Also, should I look at other paper developers? I'd like a developer like Rodinal for paper where it has a long shelf life in concentrate and I can just mix it down when I do printing. For paper developer get LPD, the Lasting Paper Developer. It's sold as a can of powder, makes a gallon, and lasts forever. A few months ago I took some of the LPD that I mixed more than a year before and used successfully. And that was diluted and stored in a half-full bottle. You probably won't find any liquid concentrate paper dev that stores that well.
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Dec 2, 2013 11:47
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nielsm posted:For paper developer get LPD, the Lasting Paper Developer. It's sold as a can of powder, makes a gallon, and lasts forever. A few months ago I took some of the LPD that I mixed more than a year before and used successfully. And that was diluted and stored in a half-full bottle. You probably won't find any liquid concentrate paper dev that stores that well. I'm fine with powder. I get the single gallon Kodak chems in powder form locally, so I'm used to working with powders. I'll pick some of that up; it sounds awesome. Edit: my Dektol may still be good, but I'm going to order lpd for a gallon anyway. carticket fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 13:42
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I've expressed a desire to get back into shooting film at some point and my girlfriend has told me to put a nice camera on my wish list (if not for Christmas than maybe for another special occasion in the future). I'm wanting something with some history that would be a great conversation piece for street photography or random trips. I have a polaroid land camera that I use quite a bit as well as an SX70 that I use quite a bit less due to the unpredictable/expensive Impossible Project film... sucks to spend $3/shot on film you have to shield from light for 30 minutes to get a half-decent image. Cost not being a huge factor I've always wanted to try a Leica M6 or M7. I've never had a chance to shoot one but have been drawn to Rangefinders for a long while and would love to try shooting a few concerts here and there w/ fast B&W film like I got started w/. The other one I've been toying with the idea of is a Rollei 3.5 (or ideally 2.8). Most of the subjects I like to shoot are low-light and hand-held so speed matters to an extent. I love the idea of just putting a fast 35mm or 50mm on a Leica and calling it good for a traveling camera. I don't picture myself doing any enlargements bigger than maybe 20x30 so medium format certainly isn't necessary but I do love shooting w/ a TLR. Any thoughts on what a good collectable film camera would be that would inspire me to want to carry a film camera around again? Everytime I bring out my polaroid land camera I have a lot of fun and have great conversations. I want something that will do the same w/ film. setting up a dark-room in the future is certainly a possibility as we'll be moving into a house soon w/ a good sized garage. Any thoughts/suggestions/considerations? If I decide on a rollei I'd need to do some more homework on the different iterations D,E,F, etc. if I decide on a Leica I'd want to try one before committing but it's hard to find anyone who has one to loan in the area.
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Dec 2, 2013 20:38
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MMD3 posted:but I do love shooting w/ a TLR. So ask for a Rollei.
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Dec 2, 2013 20:58
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MMD3 posted:Cost not being a huge factor I've always wanted to try a Leica M6 or M7. I've never had a chance to shoot one but have been drawn to Rangefinders for a long while and would love to try shooting a few concerts here and there w/ fast B&W film like I got started w/. The other one I've been toying with the idea of is a Rollei 3.5 (or ideally 2.8). Most of the subjects I like to shoot are low-light and hand-held so speed matters to an extent. I love the idea of just putting a fast 35mm or 50mm on a Leica and calling it good for a traveling camera. I don't picture myself doing any enlargements bigger than maybe 20x30 so medium format certainly isn't necessary but I do love shooting w/ a TLR. My personal opinion is that you don't get much real value out of a Leica. The glass is pretty good, but you can put it on a cheap Bessa or something and get equal results. While ergonomics and build quality is a real thing, I don't think it's worth paying several times as much. Rolleis own though, I love my 3.5E Xenotar. Rolleicords are cheap and great, the Rolleiflex model gets you auto-sensing film loading and a TTL reflex finder (which makes focusing a snap), and the Planar/Xenotar models are great. 2.8s are significantly more expensive than the 3.5s for pretty marginal gain - they're a half stop faster, but the 3.5s are equally good in terms of image quality. There's also no difference between Planars and Xenotars apart from collectibility, they are essentially identical optically. Apart from some models that are especially collectible, generally the higher the letter the newer and more expensive it is. There's a pretty big jump right after the E series, so I'd look for a 3.5D or 3.5E on any sort of budget. Shutter speed relates to field of view, not focal length, so figure you'll need to stay above (1/35mm equivalent focal length). TLRs can actually be shot pretty slow because they have a leaf shutter and they're fairly big and stable, and the Tessar/Planar models can be shot wide open. Depending on your use, the Yashica Lynx 14 is also a good low-light shooter. I also like the Olympus XA, which has a slightly slower but wider lens. For maximum class and collectibility, though, you should buy a Kodak Medalist. It's got a rigid body like a TLR, rangefinder focus, and a Heliar-type lens. It does use 620 film though - you either need to respool the film to 620 spools, or have it converted to use 120 on one/both spool. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 21:02
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Paul MaudDib posted:My personal opinion is that you don't get much real value out of a Leica. The glass is pretty good, but you can put it on a cheap Bessa or something and get equal results. While ergonomics and build quality is a real thing, I don't think it's worth paying several times as much. I guess the main thing holding me back from the TLR would be size/portability. I appreciate the form factor of a Leica and also the lower cost of shooting 35mm would be a bonus... I'd imagine working with 35mm in a home darkroom would be easier and cheaper than 120mm too no?
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Dec 2, 2013 22:29
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MMD3 posted:I guess the main thing holding me back from the TLR would be size/portability. I appreciate the form factor of a Leica and also the lower cost of shooting 35mm would be a bonus... I'd imagine working with 35mm in a home darkroom would be easier and cheaper than 120mm too no? I've never heard anyone say they wanted to shoot Leica to save money. 120 is just as easy as 35mm to process and not significantly more expensive considering how much more negative you get.
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Dec 2, 2013 22:33
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The only thing my $50 dark room setup was missing for processing 120 was a film holder and lens for the enlarger. Those can be had pretty cheaply.
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Dec 2, 2013 22:34
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MrBlandAverage posted:I've never heard anyone say they wanted to shoot Leica to save money. 120 is just as easy as 35mm to process and not significantly more expensive considering how much more negative you get. obviously shooting Leica isn't a budget decision. But it'd be nice to keep the per-roll cost down after the initial investment. I'm also thinking if I ever want to try to shoot a concert or event w/ film I'm going to be much better served by a rangefinder than a TLR.
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Dec 2, 2013 23:05
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MMD3 posted:obviously shooting Leica isn't a budget decision. But it'd be nice to keep the per-roll cost down after the initial investment. If you want interchangeable lenses and the ability to be used at eye level, get a Mamiya C330 
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Dec 2, 2013 23:21
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MMD3 posted:obviously shooting Leica isn't a budget decision. But it'd be nice to keep the per-roll cost down after the initial investment.
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Dec 3, 2013 00:02
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I have an Oly 35 RD and it is lovely.
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Dec 3, 2013 00:15
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MMD3 posted:obviously shooting Leica isn't a budget decision. But it'd be nice to keep the per-roll cost down after the initial investment.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:00
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If money is no object, get a Mamiya 7 top of the line medium format rangefinder.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:27
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Get a Pentax 67. It's the ME super of the MF world.
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Dec 3, 2013 01:32
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Casu Marzu posted:Get a Pentax 67. It's the ME super of the MF world. The P67 is the K1000 of the MF world. The P67ii is like a ME Super, only not $50. The Mamiya 7 isn't a bad idea if you like rangefinders. MF film/processing costs aren't as bad as you would imagine, you tend to focus on developing your ideas more and getting the shot in one take so you waste less. The fact that you get 1/3 to 1/2 as many shots per roll almost forces this - if you shoot 120 like 35mm you will be reloading every five minutes. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 01:41
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I think basically everything has been already said, I'd just like to consolidate a bit. Also this comes up fairly regularly - maybe we can do some kind of camera choice helper, OP? It appears to me that you are not yet entirely sure what you want out of your camera, and/or what you want out of film. This is no shame, this is normal and it takes some time and sometimes several camera purchases to land where you initially didn't even know you wanted to go. That's life. The good part is with film cameras you're not subject to digital rot and thus if you're willing to put in the time to sell it again using the usual channels vs pawning it off etc you will make back like 80-90% of your investment. The other thing is tho, like Paul already saliently pointed out is that you shouldn't go spending the some decent money on a 2.8F Rolleiflex, or a Leica of any persuasion while you're still searching as to where you want to go. You've been giving conflicting information as to that. Again, this is normal, try stuff first you'll see how you like it. Just don't go funneling wads of cash on a camera that'll sit on your shelf collecting dust. There's few of them left and they deserve to be used! 35mm rangefinders Thus like for a rangefinder I'd recommend the Olympus 35 line, like evil_bunny did. The 35RC, 35RD and 35SP (42mm, f/1.7 lens, full manual) are all very lovely cameras and a good introduction into the 35mm rangefinder way. I have a couple and love them, when I use them, which is admittedly sparingly... because: Medium format Regarding MF, why not go for a Minolta Autocord, or a Ricohflex or a Rolleicord? Or if you wanna be even more of a cheapskate a Yashica? I have made the bulk of my initial images with those and I still love a lot of these images. They usually pack Tessar clones, which still pack a neat punch, even in medium format. Thus, these cameras may be cheaper, but don't let that fool you! They won't "hold you back" quality wise. Not at all! The other option, since you mentioned interchangeable lenses would be a Pentax67. 55mm, 75mm and 105mm lenses are all excellent and can be had for not that much money. (With the possible exception of the 55) The difference between formats is not just the film size, but also the look that can be achieved. Medium format images will almost never look like 35mm images and vice versa.. it's not just about film size or amount of information but the look. Last but not least, film follow up cost is almost the same for 35 and 120. Home developing B&W is ridiculously easy once you're set up, so no one has any excuse not to. And no you don't need a darkroom - a changing bag will do just fine! And, finally, bear in mind that you'll likely need other one-shot costs too for medium format, like a decent light meter, a decent bag and tripod etc...
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Dec 3, 2013 02:59
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Reading the above, which makes a lot of sense, made me think what would I settle with if I had to reboot my gear setup. If I really had to start over again from scratch, I'd get a Rollei 35 S/T/SE/TE for everyday B/W and a Nikon FE/FM-something for color. The Nikon because I can always use the glass on digital should I need to and the cameras are robust and feature packed. The Rollei because they have killer lenses in a no-nonsense package. Pair those with a good dedicated scanner like the Plustek / Reflecta and you have a setup that's much more practical than medium format with a quality that's enough for anything I could have a use for.
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Dec 3, 2013 09:23
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If you're paying, get a Bessa or Olympus 35 rangefinder. Because you're not, get a Leica M2/M3/M4 or CL. The CL's meter will probably be toast, but that doesn't matter. They're cool as poo poo and feel great. If you're doing street photography with them, you'll soon realize that TTL metering would just slow you down. If you're shooting concerts, I'd actually suggest an SLR with a 50mm f/1.4 over a rangefinder setup. You're probably going to be shooting wide-open in low-light and will need to adjust your focus a lot. For medium format, get a Rolleiflex if you want to shoot portraits (everyone wants to be shot with a TLR), get a Mamiya 7 if you want to shoot anything else. burzum karaoke fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 12:12
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Dec 3, 2013 13:12
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Thank you for all of the awesome recommendations. I'll definitely be needing to get hands-on with a few of these. A few points of clarification... One of the biggest factors keeping me from shooting street stuff more frequently is the bulk of carrying my DSLR (5DmkII) rig around. I'm not expecting to find the type of film camera I want much smaller than a modern DSLR but I definitely definitely do not want a Pentax67 or Mamiya7 or whatever other ridiculously large MF system w/ interchangeable lenses. A TLR is about as bulky as I'm willing to get for now and still feel comfortable putting it in my duffle bag for weekend trips and what not. I shoot concerts w/ a DSLR w/ a 50mm f/1.4, 24mm f/1.4, and 16-35mm. I'm set for actually taking consistent shots at shows. Even pretty satisfied w/ using VSCO filters to do passable B&W conversions. I'm more interested in renewing that sense of challenge as a novelty (not something I'd do regularly) that came w/ shooting 35mm pre-DSLR's. I think it'd be a lot of fun to carry a 35mm rangefinder along to shows every now and then to snap a few rolls of 1600 B&W and see what turns out. I'm totally open to checking out alternative MF TLR's along the lines of the Ricohflex or Rolleicord, as well as alternative 35mm RF's along the lines of the Bessa's & Oly35's. I'm much less interested in checking out the larger MF's. I'd love to hear more about what differentiations or tradeoffs there are between the Ricohflex, Rolleiflex, Rolleicord, Autocord, etc. or the Bessa, Oly35, Leica's I'm more drawn to the later Leica's and Rolleiflex's because of their legacy/heritage and some of the creature comforts of things like aperture priority. Also I'm not paying for it so...   A lot of the paid events I shoot are sort of fashion/style events where carrying around a premium brand can spark some good conversations, open up doors for networking, and I know it sounds ridiculous and vain but it can't be completely discounted possibly improve my perceived legitimacy or make me stand out from the crowd a bit more. Sorry for not doing a very good job of conveying why I was looking at those particular cameras earlier. I'm definitely keyed in to how well most of these hold their resale value which is another reason I don't mind going for something that might seem like overkill. So... it'd be something like 60% street & travel stuff, 20% outdoors/hiking & landscapes, 20% events/concerts
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Dec 3, 2013 20:54
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MMD3 posted:I'd love to hear more about what differentiations or tradeoffs there are between the Ricohflex, Rolleiflex, Rolleicord, Autocord, etc. or the Bessa, Oly35, Leica's Your pictures will come out just as bad with a Leica as they would with a Bessa, but for 1/10th of the cost. To me, getting a Leica just for its little red dot so you have a conversation starter is a pretty stupid thing to do, you'll just have a "steal me" sign around your neck when you travel and be worried about dropping the drat thing while hiking. Also I wouldn't be comfortable asking my significant other to spend so much on a camera, just because "you said I could get whatever I wanted", but I'm probably projecting here. Tldr: Leicas are for dentists.
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Dec 3, 2013 21:55
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Spedman posted:Your pictures will come out just as bad with a Leica as they would with a Bessa, but for 1/10th of the cost. To me, getting a Leica just for its little red dot so you have a conversation starter is a pretty stupid thing to do, you'll just have a "steal me" sign around your neck when you travel and be worried about dropping the drat thing while hiking. Also I wouldn't be comfortable asking my significant other to spend so much on a camera, just because "you said I could get whatever I wanted", but I'm probably projecting here. I'm pretty sure the differentiation is Leica's are built to be more bullet-proof than Bessa's. I honestly wasn't expecting that I'd come into this w/ people hating on the brand. I mean if you've ever had a bad experience with a Leica or Rolleiflex then I get it, share those anecdotes with me. Please don't try to steer me away from a Leica or Rolleiflex because of the price though, I've been pretty clear that the price shouldn't be a major factor here (within reason: I'm not going to buy a Leica M9 anytime soon just like I'm not going to be buying a Canon 1DX anytime soon.) I'm likely going to give her a short list of some cameras I'd love to own in the future and if the occasion arises that she wants to buy me a nice gift then great, I'm not going to stamp my foot and throw a fit if I don't get exactly what I want. This is more aspirational stuff but we're at a place in life where a $1-3K gift isn't out of the question. More details than I need to share, I'm just trying to get feedback on some specific cameras from people who actually have experience with them but maybe I need to go find the dentist messageboard.
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Dec 3, 2013 22:22
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Spedman posted:Tldr: Leicas are for dentists. I have a Leica M6 as well as a Bessa 2A and 3M. I shoot with the M6 regularly, the Bessa's sit unused most of the time. Yes, the Voigtlanders work fine (mostly) but the feel and shooting experience is so much better with the Leica. It's just a much more precise machine and it really does feel like it's built to last several lifetimes. I can look at developed film strips and spot the ones from the M6 simply by how precise the spacing between each frame is. The gap between frames on the Bessa's are various widths. I guess it's really intangible things that make me like the M6 more. Also, mine has a black dot and blacked out lettering so it doesn't even scream "Leica" to anyone who sees it.
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Dec 3, 2013 22:29
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MMD3 posted:I'm pretty sure the differentiation is Leica's are built to be more bullet-proof than Bessa's. It's pretty clear you decided before posting in this thread that you want a Leica, so just ask for that.
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Dec 3, 2013 22:43
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MrBlandAverage posted:It's pretty clear you decided before posting in this thread that you want a Leica, so just ask for that. Seriously. The only bad part of a Leica is cost and that's not an issue here so why not go for it.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:04
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MMD3 posted:Thank you for all of the awesome recommendations. I'll definitely be needing to get hands-on with a few of these. the mamiya 7 is not very large at all. if your concert film goals are to bring a few rolls of 1600 b/w for a challenge and a novelty, then don't get a leica. at the very least try out any number of good quality, inexpensive 35mm rangefinders to see if you're getting the kind of results you want and as a verification that the process/workflow is for you. if you then still feel like it's the equipment that's holding you back, then you invest in a leica, not preemptively. i like tlrs but even the rolleicords are still pretty bulky if you're looking at it from the pov of a modern dslr with a 50mm lens. looking at what you want to be shooting, if i were you, i would get a good, well priced 35mm rangefinder like the many that have been mentioned by others. i would also get a medium format camera - 35mm and medium format are best at different things and i would recommend diversifying instead of trying to shoehorn everything you want to do into one system. i would recommend getting a fuji gs645. it's a fixed lens medium format rangefinder. you can get it with a folding 75mm lens, a 60mm lens (35mm equiv) and a 45. it's about as compact as you're going to get and the fuji glass is tack sharp. if you want to be ballin get the gf670 - it's pretty similar but is a folding 6x7 instead of 645. it's bigger, and three times the price, but everything has tradeoffs.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:46
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MMD3 posted:I'm pretty sure the differentiation is Leica's are built to be more bullet-proof than Bessa's. Again, I was totally projecting, so sorry if I came of a bit snarky, but I really didn't like your reasoning for getting a Leica, as you seemed to like the idea of owning a Leica and using it as a status symbol rather than as a super high quality 35mm rangefinder. But if you get one, love it and shoot the gently caress out of it, then more power to you, seriously. And the concept of having $1-3k for a gift is completely foreign to me, so if its not an issue, just get one. But remember the glass ain't cheap either.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:57
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If you're going to be shooting shows, focusing in low-light is really annoying, at least with split prism focusing screens. Don't know how Leica's viewfinders are but I'd recommend getting something with a large/bright viewfinder.
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Dec 4, 2013 00:03
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Yeah come full circle, just get a Leica. Most people look for cheaper alternatives because they don't want to spend so much for a Leica but if you can afford it, I don't see why you should bother considering the alternatives. Unless you really want something like an Oly 35 etc etc in which case you wouldn't have bothered asking us. I don't own a Leica but I have plenty of friends who do. From what I know, get an M2 if you want something that will last forever and if you don't need a meter or don't mind spending more for an external meter. Get a M6 TTL if you want a meter inside and TTL flash sync. Get the MP if you want something like the M2 but with a meter inside and you have no budget. Also note that Leica film bodies are the cheaper part of the system, it's the lenses that will kill your wallet. Unless you start to explore all the different M-mount lenses out there, like Voigtlander, Konica, Zeiss, etc. As for a MF TLR, just get the Rolleiflex 2.8F since you have no budget.
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Dec 4, 2013 00:35
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I'd recommend a Yashica Lynx 14 if you wanted to focus on a concert rangefinder, but it does sound like you want the Leica. If money's no object, yeah, go hog wild. The Mamiya 645 does have a fast 80mm f/1.9 and if money's no object there's also the Contax 645, which is an autofocus 6x4.5 SLR with a f/2 lens. While we're on the subject of fast MF glass, now that there's a full frame mirrorless camera someone needs to make a Speed Booster that goes from 6x4.5 to 35mm. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 00:48
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Ashton Kutcher uses Nikon, therefore you should use a Nikon FM.
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Dec 4, 2013 01:07
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Mr. Powers posted:Ashton Kutcher uses Nikon, gently caress, do I need to sell my D7000 
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Dec 4, 2013 01:09
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MMD3 posted:obviously shooting Leica isn't a budget decision. But it'd be nice to keep the per-roll cost down after the initial investment. First I wanna point out your statement, here. This is probably where you (inadvertently) got people off track. That's what I read and thought "Okay, so budget is an issue after all..." So instead of railing against anti Leica sentiment on this usually very chill board, maybe consider what you implied with the above. Compared to the price of a Leica vs any other 35mm rangefinder, the difference between various film formats won't even make a tiny dent in your budget for at least 1000s of rolls of film. A number which I have just cracked, after shooting film exclusively for four years straight. Like I said, self develop black and white (maybe even color, too) - save oodles of money. It's also fun! That said, if budget isn't a huge issue but handling and weight is, for medium format I'd recommend a Mamiya 7, as has been said. They are the cream of the crop for 6x7 medium format, IMO. And for 6x6 a Rolleiflex 2.8 model. The later F models have more, like you put it, "creature comforts" such as a better folding hood and finder. They also usually come with a light meter. But those are normally either wildly inaccurate, or just entirely dead. So, unless you can cross reference it against a known good meter, making sure it works, I wouldn't bet my pictures on those old selenium meters. Xenotar or Planar doesn't matter except for internet spergs - I have both and can't tell any meaningful difference even with huge rear end scans. Another perennial favorite of mine is the Minolta Autocord, the higher end models come with a CDS cell meter, which compared to the Rolleis selenium meter, will most likely still be working and accurate as it's a battery driven part. The Autocord and the Ricohflex both have the only sane film path in the TLR world. What does that mean? They don't bend the film, it just runs straight down until after the picture is exposed. Rolleis and most other also-rans do it the opposite way that bends the film around a 90 degree angle before exposing it. And yes I've found that it matters when shooting close to wide open (night stuff) and the film has sat for a bit. Furthermore, the Autocords mechanical build quality rivals - and in some parts exceeds the Rolleis, which it tried to mimic. For example the focus mechanism of both the Ricohflex (225 model and "...flex" models) and the Autocord (All models) is based on moving the lens-board on a thick brass helicoid. This means unlike the Rolleiflex, which uses two sheet-metal cams - it's very unlikely that hitting the camera would either tilt the axis of focus, or knock it out of alignment entirely. This comes with the secondary benefit that focusing on those camera is done via a swinging lever below the lens board as opposed to knob. This allows for quick one handed operation. Lastly, the Autocords shutter travels smoothly trough the entire way until it releases. With the Rolleis there is some slight resistance before it actuates. Again personal preference, but I find that smooth travel reduces shake for those slow speeds.
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Dec 4, 2013 02:55
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MrBlandAverage posted:It's pretty clear you decided before posting in this thread that you want a Leica, so just ask for that. I'm totally open to being talked out of it, I just want it to be for the right reasons, not because people think the only people who use Leica's are dentists I know it's from Mad Men Spedman posted:Again, I was totally projecting, so sorry if I came of a bit snarky, but I really didn't like your reasoning for getting a Leica, as you seemed to like the idea of owning a Leica and using it as a status symbol rather than as a super high quality 35mm rangefinder. But if you get one, love it and shoot the gently caress out of it, then more power to you, seriously. No worries, I can totally see how I came off as an idiot by stepping into the film thread with an opening post like that... honestly I shot 35mm film for several years before picking up my first digital camera, I've been away from it for a long time but I'm no stranger to it, I know the stereotypes that come w/ Leica's but I also know that the few people I know who have owned them have always praised them for being the best cameras they've owned. I want something that I can hang onto for a long time and feel excited to shoot with, ideally something that I could pass along to family. I was shooting w/ my polaroid land camera over the summer and had a friend's grandmother come up to me to tell me that she has her deceased husband's Leica from the 30's and she offered to give it to me if I would use it to take a portrait of her family because nobody in her family is a photographer. The moment of extreme giddiness that came from the thought of being handed an antique Leica I thought spoke volumes to the reputation they have. Sure, that's my perception that is not unaffected by marketing and media but it's still a thought that I'm sure anyone in this thread would be excited by. I didn't follow up on it because I'm sure her family would have hated me for trying to take a family heirloom away and I'm pretty sure she has mild dementia but it was still a fun thing to dream about for the few minutes it lasted. RustedChrome posted:I have a Leica M6 as well as a Bessa 2A and 3M. I shoot with the M6 regularly, the Bessa's sit unused most of the time. Yes, the Voigtlanders work fine (mostly) but the feel and shooting experience is so much better with the Leica. It's just a much more precise machine and it really does feel like it's built to last several lifetimes. I can look at developed film strips and spot the ones from the M6 simply by how precise the spacing between each frame is. The gap between frames on the Bessa's are various widths. I guess it's really intangible things that make me like the M6 more. Also, mine has a black dot and blacked out lettering so it doesn't even scream "Leica" to anyone who sees it. And this is exactly the type of thing I was hoping to hear, thanks for sharing! alkanphel posted:I don't own a Leica but I have plenty of friends who do. From what I know, get an M2 if you want something that will last forever and if you don't need a meter or don't mind spending more for an external meter. Get a M6 TTL if you want a meter inside and TTL flash sync. Get the MP if you want something like the M2 but with a meter inside and you have no budget. also super helpful, thanks! I know the lenses are $$$ I'm envisioning sticking to one lens for a good long while, probably just pick up a decent 35 or 50. Paul MaudDib posted:I'd recommend a Yashica Lynx 14 if you wanted to focus on a concert rangefinder, but it does sound like you want the Leica. If money's no object, yeah, go hog wild. I'd love to hear what would make the Lynx a better rangefinder for concerts. Again, I wouldn't be heartbroken if I decide it doesn't make sense to take it to shows. It'd be fun but not a deal-breaker, I'm much more interested in a street/travel camera. Sorry for thread-hijacking, I appreciate the suggestions and hopefully at some point soon I'll be able to actually contribute my own experiences w/ film again. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Dec 4, 2013 |
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Dec 4, 2013 02:55
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