|
MMD3 posted:I'd love to hear what would make the Lynx a better rangefinder for concerts. Again, I wouldn't be heartbroken if I decide it doesn't make sense to take it to shows. It'd be fun but not a deal-breaker, I'm much more interested in a street/travel camera. Manual control, fast lens, depending on what kind of shows you go to, it's not too pricey to avoid shooting from the pit. It would work quite nicely as a street shooter although it is a littler on the bulkier side as far as 35mm rangefinders go. If there's a used camera shop in your area just go in and try everything and buy whatever feels good. If it's fun too shoot, you'll make it work.
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 03:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 16:07 |
|
|
MMD3 posted:I'd love to hear what would make the Lynx a better rangefinder for concerts. Again, I wouldn't be heartbroken if I decide it doesn't make sense to take it to shows. It'd be fun but not a deal-breaker, I'm much more interested in a street/travel camera. Well, the Lynx has a f/1.4 lens, mechanical shutter, a leaf shutter (less shake), manual meter, and they're <$100, so yeah, they're not the end of the world to break. If I need to shoot slow and wide open it's my camera of choice. They're actually more mixed for travel and street shooting, since the lens is prone to flare. It's only single-coated, and like most lenses pre-1970 or so it was expected you would use a hood. On the other hand, many Leica lenses have only single or no coatings as well. Flare is one component of the "Leica glow" (the other being spherical abberation). Street shooting is pretty much just all purpose shooting. If I wanted a classy general-purpose rangefinder, it'd be the Medalist, but that's personal preference. People apparently love to have their picture taken with TLRs, they're classy and less threatening (you look down rather than at them). It depends on the kind of travel and what kind of shooting you want to do. For air travel, I take my Olympus XA and my Fuji GS645 folding RF. It's tiny and gives you a redundant camera unit with a different field of view. It gives you options if a camera breaks, to crosscheck meters, to have different film stocks loaded, etc. I suppose the well-heeled version of that would be the GF670 or Plaubel Makina. If you can travel heavy, the P67 is great, full stop. Great wideangle lenses and a fast normal lens. The Mamiya 6/7 is the "throwing money at the problem" answer to quality and delivers the most resolution of any MF system out there. If I was going canoeing or to Asia during monsoon season I would take a Nikonos V. Every camera has something it's bad at - it's about using the right tool for the job. A rangefinder is bad at macro, SLRs are worse in low light, etc. Negative size is way more of a determinant of image quality than the quality of gear - a $300 MF camera will match a Leica in resolution, and a Mamiya 7 delivers more resolution than a Leica could dream of across a negative 4x as big at a cost that is equal or less. But they're not as fast for low-light shooting, if that's what you need. These days it's (unfortunately) affordable to have "event" cameras dedicated to certain types of shooting. There are lots of high-quality options out there if you want to spend money, but you really should play around with some cameras to figure out what you like before you drop a bundle on a nice Leica setup or a 2.8F. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Dec 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 04:41
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:the only people who use Leica's are dentists I know it's from Mad Men No it isn't.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 04:49
|
|
|
I love my Lynx, and I agree that I'd rather take it and its f1.4 lens to a concert than a Leica that costs 10x as much, but I'd take an SLR over a rangefinder any day. It might just be me, but rangefinder focusing is pretty lovely in low light conditions.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 04:52
|
|
|
365 Nog Hogger posted:No it isn't. The guy from Mad Men was a heart surgeon.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 05:04
|
|
|
 _29_0119 by khyrre, on Flickr  _22_0112 by khyrre, on Flickr Help, I think I love Portra. I'm used to dicking around with my RAWs in Lightroom for a while, but with this it's pretty much crop to frame and go.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 05:16
|
|
|
voodoorootbeer posted:I love my Lynx, and I agree that I'd rather take it and its f1.4 lens to a concert than a Leica that costs 10x as much, but I'd take an SLR over a rangefinder any day. It might just be me, but rangefinder focusing is pretty lovely in low light conditions. Having shot concerts with both types of cameras, I would agree. I find I get the best results and fastest focusing from using a plain focusing screen with no split prism. You're shooting moving subjects at wide open aperture so close enough is close enough and with a little practice, you'll be surprised at how often you can nail focus without a split prism or rangefinder patch.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 05:36
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:also super helpful, thanks! I know the lenses are $$$ I'm envisioning sticking to one lens for a good long while, probably just pick up a decent 35 or 50. For a decent 35, I'd recommend either the Zeiss or Leica 35/2 lenses, depending on how much money you have left.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 06:39
|
|
|
Firing up v700... my CDROM is hosed because a mate once tried to feed it a biscuit (true story) so I can't install SilverFast 8 that came with the scanner.... using epson software... not sure I'm liking the results or I'm just doing it completely wrong. Any walkthrough guides anywhere? e: Here's the first couple. I think this is the first time I've put Reala through the camera and maybe I just don't like Reala, or I'm doing something wrong in the scanning process. Either way these are my first couple of scans (the second one is higher res than the first one... I'm not looking forward to going back through all my film and re-scanning)  reala007 by Alex Gard, on Flickr  reala008 by Alex Gard, on Flickr Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Dec 4, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 08:30
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:Firing up v700... my CDROM is hosed because a mate once tried to feed it a biscuit (true story) so I can't install SilverFast 8 that came with the scanner.... using epson software... not sure I'm liking the results or I'm just doing it completely wrong. 48-bit color scan into tiff, use autoexposure and leave the gamma where it is, slide output white and black points to 0/100%, then adjust the white and black points for the RGB channels to match the histogram
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 10:13
|
|
|
There's this video that's regularly posted in the scanner thread. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_qeZOWqchM Can't personally say how helpful it is as I'm still debating what kind of scanner to get.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 14:08
|
|
|
It's a good video for the technical stuff you should do after scanning but even when I use it, my neg scans still look pretty rough, which is a shame as I'm pretty sure Portra was designed specifically to be scanned.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 15:28
|
|
|
Enjoying my Canon AE-1 loads. DSC00231 by boydy88, on Flickr  DSC00210 by boydy88, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
My ME Super really works! Fuji 200C, Drugstore scan 
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 16:51
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 17:26
|
|
|
My stepdad just gave me a temp control bath (is that what theyre called?) from his vet clinic. Do you think this will be enough to control temperatures for slide or colour neg developing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 23:28
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:My stepdad just gave me a temp control bath (is that what theyre called?) from his vet clinic. Do you think this will be enough to control temperatures for slide or colour neg developing? As long as it gets up high enough for the chemicals, sure. Maybe throw in an aquarium pump just to circulate everything, if it doesn't have one.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 23:43
|
|
|
Don't think it has a pump. I had a quick look at the manual and it says it ranges from 30c to 100c but the dial has 20c on it as well. Will sus it out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 23:51
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:Don't think it has a pump. I had a quick look at the manual and it says it ranges from 30c to 100c but the dial has 20c on it as well. Will sus it out. 20C is the standard temperature for B+W development. You can get that out of most faucets, and precision isn't super accurate in B+W anyway. C-41 and E-6 use higher temperatures. A quick google suggests the Tetenal C-41 kit is 38-45*C depending on the processing time, so you should be good to roll.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 00:05
|
|
|
Does anybody in this thread who lives in the US and develops their own C41 use a kit with separate bleach and fix? If so, where did you get it? The only kits for not-huge volumes I can find available at websites based in the US are 3-bath with blix.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 01:18
|
|
|
MrBlandAverage posted:Does anybody in this thread who lives in the US and develops their own C41 use a kit with separate bleach and fix? If so, where did you get it? The only kits for not-huge volumes I can find available at websites based in the US are 3-bath with blix. I know it's not where you want it, but Macodirect have the rollei kits in a range of sizes to do the 4 step colour process.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 05:38
|
|
|
I just developed my first 2 rolls of film; acros 100 This is what I'm using: T-max developer - 5:30, agitated every minute for 10 seconds Kodak Ind Stop bath - 30 seconds continuously agitated FIXag fixer - 7 minutes (bottle says between 6-8) agitated every minute for 10 seconds LFN for final wash - I ran through 6 tanks of water agitating for 30 seconds then dumping then in the final wash I put in 5 drops of LFN (which sounded about right for 1 litre of water) all at 20 degrees. In a paterson tank. Whilst loading my film onto the reels in the loving dark bag, I think the reels have kinda chewed up the film a little bit. So that a few frames have that kind of curly kink think in some places. Others it seems like the film isn't getting properly developed and I dunno if this is because the film hasn't reeled into the reels properly? Or am I using a chemical combo that's not very easy/tricky? I suppose I should be happy I even got an image. Also I think the dust is from the dark bag as well as the house is dusty as hell. No escaping it.       they've had a mild contrast boost, and I stopped trying to clean up dust as soon as I realised I think they'd collected every ion of moth poo poo this side of the equator. Any ideas? Or will I just need to practice practice practice? Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Dec 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 06:20
|
|
|
I don't know if I can help you with your developing, because you seem to have already hit on the first things to jump to mind - dust, agitation, loading reels, first time... But I want to know: is that Hobart Rivulet? Looks familiar...
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 06:47
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:I just developed my first 2 rolls of film; acros 100 Lovely images! Okay, about development - from my experience: Loading medium-format film onto the Paterson plastic reels can be tricky, especially when it's humid, yeah. This is a matter of practice, so you become quick enough that you finish before sweating up the changing bag. You can try clipping the very corners of the film for easier loading, this works better with 35mm film than 120 tho. Never force film. If the loading action jams, sigh, say gently caress three times and take apart the reel, and restart. The image I quoted also has some artifacts on the corners. These are mostly likely caused by bubbles. I get them mostly when I do stand development with very little to no agitation. To avoid this: after filling in the chemicals bang the tank a couple of times on your counter-top. Don't go overboard but still give it a good whack. Then tap the top cover lightly with your knuckles or something. This should dislodge most / all of the bubbles - evening out development. Another word of caution: also make sure that all your chems / water-wash are approx the same temperature - 2-3 degrees off is probably fine, but don't shock your film during development with temperature differences exceeding that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 06:48
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:But I want to know: is that Hobart Rivulet? Looks familiar... Its not Hobart Rivulet, it's one of the storm drains from Elwood - Brighton in Melbourne. I love going through underground tunnels but for some weird reason I've never been down the Hobart Rivulet... might give it a crack this weekend if I get time when I go down there  Thanks. I now remember that I forgot to bang the tank once pouring in the developer to dislodge bubbles.. I saw that in the tutorial video but must have forgotten it in haste. Notes. So different chemical combinations are fine? Are there any that are particularly easier? I have a bag of D-76 powder in the fridge as well if that makes a difference. And yes I had a big container full of water about 20 degrees and put all my pre-mixed chemical bottles in the water to bring them all to the same temperature, and tested them all before I started. So I guess TL;DR is I just need to practice a lot. And find a way to avoid dust. Thanks for the tips... look forward to getting the technique down pat!
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 07:03
|
|
|
Sludge tank what kind of ship is that? I recently visited an LPG tanker on its maiden voyage, it looked like a similar kind of setup to that one. Had to leave my camera with security on the dock as they allowed ZERO electronic equipment on deck including phones and cameras.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 07:41
|
|
|
It's a products tanker (heavy fuel oil, butane, ULP etc) Yeah I had to pull apart my camera to convince the captain it had no electronics in it before he let me outside to take photos. Everyone kept getting all up in my poo poo because I had the camera out and I'd have to explain it to like 5 people err'day. There's a hardcore no-electronics policy so I was glad I took the film camera. Film wins.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 07:50
|
|
|
Why wouldn't they want electronics on a ship?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:01
|
|
|
Only outside, there is an 'atmosphere' of fumes from cargo pressure release points around the deck. It's a really over-the-top-safety measure. we get bonus pay 'danger' money for working on LNG/LPG or products tankers because "one flash & you're ash" Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Dec 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:03
|
|
|
eggsovereasy posted:Why wouldn't they want electronics on a ship? Well the one we were on was loaded with 15,000 tonnes of propane, so understandably they have to be very cautious about ignition sources.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:11
|
|
|
Sorry to meander further off topic, but were you on it for work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:15
|
|
|
Yeah sorry for the derail but yes I work in the LPG industry (Australia's biggest distributor) so we were invited aboard for a tour of the ship and a bit of a party to celebrate the maiden voyage. It was pretty cool, I had not been on a ship that size before.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:29
|
|
|
Trident? I got offered a spot on the Sandpiper. Those new LNG things are loving ridiculous, and only getting bigger. Anyway... enough derailment!
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 08:32
|
|
|
About the "incompatible chemicals?" question: Very unlikely. Most importantly, the stop bath neutralizes the developer, isolating its action from the fixer bath. The stop bath is just a weak acid (acetic, citric, or such) and no one would market a developer that wasn't safe with it. After the main development step, it's hard to gently caress up, save for letting light onto the film before stopping the development. If the fixer had been bad/not worked you would see splotches of emulsion left on the negatives, but that's clearly not an issue. There's basically two chemical formulas for fixer (hypo, and rapid fixer) and any wash bath would be able to neutralize either. Only of you had somehow managed to obtain a bleach bath and used that, that could have ruined things. But nobody tells you to get those unless you're looking at color development or b/w reversal.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 10:27
|
|
|
Again, thanks. I'll fire off a couple of test reels tomorrow and have another crack if I can find some time. A fellow tumblr hipster told me to try the rodinal 1:100 stand development. DO you think this is an easier starting route for a beginner? Or is it too 'lazy' and remove the learning curve? He gave me this link: http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/ this quote: quote:using stand development might not always give you the best negative, but the trade off is flexibility and reliability makes me ask the aforementioned question Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Dec 5, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 12:10
|
|
|
Rodinal 1+100 stand development, 1 hour: - Develops every film basically for rated ISO speed (and simple variations can be used to push one or two stops) - Tends to give low contrast (good for scanning, gives you more leverage for bad exposures, may not be desirable for wet printing) - But takes a long time (hogs your tank for an hour, although you can to a limited extent do something else while the developer is working) - And any problem with developer unevenness (like air bubbles on the film) will be extremely pronounced
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 12:30
|
|
|
If you've never developed film before I recommend doing your very first roll that way just to give yourself a little confidence, but do a few at 1+50 or 1+25 with regular agitation until you get the process down pat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
I'm going to stop shooting my pile of expired 400H until after winter is over and I can shoot more green things with it. Ian by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 19:30
|
|
|
I just got my first roll of velvia 100 back and I think I'm sold on this stuff for a while. something fishy by PC-P, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 22:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 16:07 |
|
|
Tony Two Bapes posted:I just got my first roll of velvia 100 back and I think I'm sold on this stuff for a while. Well your Flickr stream is certainly disconcerting.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 22:44
|
|