|
CarForumPoster posted:There is a book called Aluminum and it's alloys produced by the ASM in the early 80s. It will tell you everything you need to know to do this correctly and make decent quality castings, even out of scrap. It explicitly answers all of these questions and explains why. I had no plan for a crucible yet... sadly I don't have a large enough graphite block to make one out of that. This is going to require a lot of metal. That's an expensive book, I'll have to see if the local library has a copy or something  Thanks.
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2013 17:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 04:40 |
|
|
kastein posted:I had no plan for a crucible yet... sadly I don't have a large enough graphite block to make one out of that. This is going to require a lot of metal. Google might be able to help you find it  But seriously that book owns so hard.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2013 17:58
|
|
|
kastein posted:I had no plan for a crucible yet... sadly I don't have a large enough graphite block to make one out of that. This is going to require a lot of metal. Refractory crucibles aren't all that expensive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2013 02:48
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEMrUHcwyxQ New toy. So many possibilities. Now I need to learn how to use it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2013 17:41
|
|
|
Any love for structural ironworkers in here? http://i.imgur.com/GHOiSBa.jpg
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2013 02:29
|
|
|
djent posted:Any love for structural ironworkers in here? Yes.  Though I know I wouldn't be standing under that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2013 16:32
|
|
|
I'm actually in a lift basket under and between the two piers (one behind me), so even if the rigging failed I'd be safe. Good catch though! Safety is the number one priority on any construction site. That's part of a series of three span continuous superelevated curved girder spans I set in the middle of a highway that sees 180,000 cars a day. We had a four hour window, from midnight to 4am, to set our cranes up and work. We'd typically get 6 pieces a night. They were 60-90' long and weighed 15-30 tons. Two cranes were required to spread the load out on the existing elevated highway we set them up on. It was quite an interesting project. Here's one of my favorites: http://imgur.com/a/Zs0sX After replacing the maintenance travelers under the Brooklyn Bridge we were called back for some warranty work. Apparently the light tubes were filling with water, and the fix was to drill 3/16" drain holes in the bottom. That's me in the last picture. Work at heights demands careful attention to safe work practices. It takes a while to get over your natural aversion to being in such situations. After a while it becomes routine. Get to the point, do the work, get back down. Some of the stories about blacksmithing and metalwork in this thread are really cool too, I have a lot of respect for the work that goes into creating the pieces of steel I erect.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
djent posted:Safety is the number one priority on any construction site. I would replace "is" with "is often", and add "in some countries" to the beginning. Cause, you know, 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2013 09:02
|
|
|
haha Chinese labor is so cheap they don't even roll shapes at the mill, they just weld plates to build up sections
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2013 17:15
|
|
|
Hey welders! I have a job I need done on a flatbed trailer but I'd like to know what a reasonable price would be before I commit to buying the trailer itself. This is kind of time sensitive and trying to get quick local quotes has been a pain. The trailer has a 74" wide bump rail that has to be removed or cut down in three places (picture here). I also need 14 flanges created and welded onto the sides of the frame in intervals to extend it to the full width of 98". Each flange would be about 12" long and look very similar to these. What would you charge for this? I live in the Kentuckiana area if you're close by or know anyone. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2013 00:06
|
|
|
I want to make a wax seal stamp in metal, but I have no idea what the best way to accomplish this would be. Well actually I have an idea that CNC milling would be the way to go but I think its not feasible for me right now. My hackerspace has a CNC mill, but I am not trained on how to use it(they're still putting together a training class) and need to do this before christmas if its to be done at all. I also have access to a laser cutter which can kinda do a relief cut in acrylic and making a mold from that but I think getting good depth control is difficult. I got some jewelers wax blocks to play around with, but my free-hand carving is really awful. If I manage make some kind of mold for casting I will probably try pouring lead free pewter just for ease of use(relatively low temp). Another idea I've been bouncing around lately is a rotary tool on a pantograph to trace a pattern and cut a reduced image directly into metal. If I did this I would probably try brass. Also i'm not sure what kind of rotary bit would be best for fine detail work like this or if rotary is the wrong idea in the first place. Or maybe use the pantograph on the wax. Please help.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2013 21:08
|
|
|
The easiest way to get started is to get a piece of ~1" brass rod, cut off a quarter inch disc, find a set of needle files and start filing. When you have the shape you want you can solder a shaft to the top to make a handle. It'll take a while but that's more or less how those seal stamps would have been made in antiquity. CNC milling would be great but to get fine detail you'll need to use microscopic end mills and that takes some finesse to do without snapping them off. The pantograph is a decent idea. The simplest sort of work you can do with that is to get a little v-shaped engraving bit and use that. It doesn't make very complicated shapes but it's fine for cutting lines.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2013 21:37
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:CNC milling would be great but to get fine detail you'll need to use microscopic end mills and that takes some finesse to do without snapping them off. counterpoint: v-bit engraving
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2013 04:31
|
|
|
but yeah, files and/or dremel with a tiny burr
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2013 04:34
|
|
|
now that I think about it, beat answer is probably shapeways
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2013 05:31
|
|
|
rotor posted:now that I think about it, beat answer is probably shapeways I'd be really leery of using their printed metal stuff for use on other metal things, but for just wax it should be fine, yeah. If it ain't a big stamp it won't cost much, either. Just design it with the purpose in mind- like, you know, don't give the raised stamping surface sheer straight edges down to the base or it won't release cleanly, that sort of thing. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Dec 1, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:I'd be really leery of using their printed metal stuff for use on other metal things, but for just wax it should be fine, yeah. If it ain't a big stamp it won't cost much, either. Just design it with the purpose in mind- like, you know, don't give the raised stamping surface sheer straight edges down to the base or it won't release cleanly, that sort of thing. I think Shapeways also has an option where they print your file in wax and then use it in an investment casting. Presumably that would be much more durable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2013 23:14
|
|
|
door Door door posted:I think Shapeways also has an option where they print your file in wax and then use it in an investment casting. Presumably that would be much more durable. I don't think they do that and neither does Ponoko that I am aware. Are you thinking of a another service? I'd love to know. The metal materials aren't exactly cheap. Could the plastics work? How hot is the wax? What about printing a small coin mold, a negative of your stamp, and stuffing a bunch of sugru or RTV into it? All in, you'd be paying less than the setup costs for the metals and could use the ultra high detail acrylics instead of the metals which can get decent detail but have a distinct surface finish.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2013 23:52
|
|
|
kafkasgoldfish posted:I don't think they do that and neither does Ponoko that I am aware. Are you thinking of a another service? I'd love to know. If you look at the material description pages their sterling silver, brass, and bronze offerings are all cast using 3D printed wax positives.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2013 05:17
|
|
|
wow it's really cheap. steel is like $8/cm^3 plus handling. You could totally do a stamp in 2 or 3 cm^3 and mount it to a wooden handle.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2013 06:01
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend any metallurgy books? I am specifically interested in Copper and its alloys, but I would not mind knowing a bit about steel too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2013 12:32
|
|
|
Brekelefuw posted:Can anyone recommend any metallurgy books? I am specifically interested in Copper and its alloys, but I would not mind knowing a bit about steel too. How in depth do you want? The ASM is basically the best source for these...the books tend to be pricey. E.G.: http://www.amazon.com/Asm-Specialty...s=copper+alloys
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2013 13:33
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:How in depth do you want? Holy Christ. I don't have that kind of dough to spend on a book.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2013 22:32
|
|
|
door Door door posted:If you look at the material description pages their sterling silver, brass, and bronze offerings are all cast using 3D printed wax positives. Holy poo poo you're right. I was absolutely aware of those materials but I assumed they were the same process as the steel. Thanks for correcting me on that; mind = blown.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 00:32
|
|
|
With regard to 3D printed steel, woodworkers have been printing their logos in steel and using it as a brand on drawers and projects. Wax stamps would definitely work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 14:37
|
|
|
I'm on the fence about buying myself a really, really nice set of chasing n repousse tools for Christmas this year, I've made all my tools so far but I can tell a lot of them really aren't made... that well, they're uneven or have an ineffective profile or whatever. I want good tools to use as templates for the future. I'm likin these ones a bunch, oh yes. http://nechamkin.com/tools-25.htm
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2013 21:56
|
|
|
Not an Anthem posted:With regard to 3D printed steel, woodworkers have been printing their logos in steel and using it as a brand on drawers and projects. The ones from Shapeways?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 15:03
|
|
|
Well it looks like I have a new project to finish before I start on the aluminum casting stuff. Thanks to fellow AI goon Disgruntled Bovine for alerting me when his employer decided this belonged in a scrapmetal dumpster... it needs some repairs but was well worth the lack of purchase price. Correction... two projects. One is fix the reportedly stripped gears in the head that are keeping it from working, the other is find a way to get it into my basement. Anyone know where I can buy parts for a Sharp First HMV? I don't know what's wrong with it yet, but I figure I should start shopping so I know what pricing is like.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 22:50
|
|
|
kastein posted:Well it looks like I have a new project to finish before I start on the aluminum casting stuff. Thanks to fellow AI goon Disgruntled Bovine for alerting me when his employer decided this belonged in a scrapmetal dumpster... it needs some repairs but was well worth the lack of purchase price. I thought you were pointing out the trailer first and I was like "great find" then I saw the mill and now I am just jealous. I'd suggest calling a Sharp Dealer to start out looking at what parts cost from them. Probably a lot, so I'd say put it inside and under cover so you can take apart the thing and see what it needs. I'm interested to see if/how you get this thing into your basement, getting big and heavy things down into one is something to which I have devoted serious thought.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2013 23:30
|
|
|
kastein posted:Well it looks like I have a new project to finish before I start on the aluminum casting stuff. Thanks to fellow AI goon Disgruntled Bovine for alerting me when his employer decided this belonged in a scrapmetal dumpster... it needs some repairs but was well worth the lack of purchase price. Great find! Sharp is still in business so you can probably get parts through the manufacturer or a dealer like Enzo said. Chances are that it weighs upwards of 2000 pounds, so you will most likely be disassembling it to get it in the basement. I can't remember from your house remodel thread, do you have outdoor access to your basement?
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2013 02:14
|
|
|
I do but it is up a steep narrow driveway, then a hard right turn by my neighbors house, then up a 4 foot stone wall and across a steeply sloped yard. I have a few ideas, need to see what I can come up with. E: and yes, it is nearly 3000lbs according to the brochure. Picked it up off the trailer no problem  I thought it was in the high teens or low 2000s, trailer was only rated for 1900. I wish I had realized that it was this heavy when I chose a trailer, would have gone with the next one up.
kastein fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Dec 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
kastein posted:Moving 3000lb milling machine. Clearly, the answer is to build a shop around it wherever it gets stuck.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2013 05:51
|
|
|
kastein posted:Well it looks like I have a new project to finish before I start on the aluminum casting stuff. Thanks to fellow AI goon Disgruntled Bovine for alerting me when his employer decided this belonged in a scrapmetal dumpster... it needs some repairs but was well worth the lack of purchase price. I'm going to be rebuilding two of those as part of my industrial maintenance class next semester, I'll forward anything that seems helpful. Externally, the "Supermax" machines we have in the shop look identical to the Sharps, I'd bet the drivetrain guts are interchangeable between them as well. I finished my baby arbor press today! 
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Dec 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2013 06:23
|
|
|
Hey people, I am really glad I found this thread. I joined the Guild Of Metalsmiths over a year ago. I never imagined working with coal forges would be so enjoyable. I have a 1925 160lb Trenton Farrier sitting in my garage right now that has not been getting that much love lately. Still working out the issue with neighbor complaints, as I live in the suburbs.
Peroxide Cowboy fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Dec 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
Just lost an hour to this guys videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy I haven't seen it posted in here before - no talking in ANY video that I've watched of him making green sand, molds, casting, etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 02:01
|
|
|
So I registered for Silversmithing class like I posted about last week. The course description says I need to bring leather gloves to the first class. What kind of leather gloves would I need? Big welding ones for dealing with annealed metal?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
extreme_accordion posted:Just lost an hour to this guys videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy Watch his series on making the stirling engine. I had to spend 9 hours in an airport terminal once, and it was a lifesaver.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 04:20
|
|
|
While not exactly metal working It does require lathe work so I figured I'd post my idea here. I have a really old Dymo Dymo-Mite 1/2" tape write that has a dead spot so to say when It advances after a character. I took the drive wheel out and tried a few wraps of electrical tape which didn't work. So my next idea is to take the drive wheel, cut off the dry rotted old as gently caress stuff that's on there now, bore a skateboard wheel out to accept the drive wheel thing, then turn the skateboard wheel down to the OD of the old drive wheel. The only problem is I don't have a lathe and work is super super liability crazy so I probably won't be able to do it there either. Anyone have any other ideas as to giving some traction to this thing. Sorry in advance for the lovely explanation, I can post pictures later if anyone cares.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 04:36
|
|
|
fps_bill posted:While not exactly metal working It does require lathe work so I figured I'd post my idea here. if all you're cutting is plastic can you just chuck it into a drill press and go to work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 05:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 04:40 |
|
|
I've thought about doing that but I'm still going to have to face the hell out of it since skateboard wheels are wide and the drive wheel is like 3/8". Plus I'd kind of like it to be round afterwards instead of egg shaped. I have used the drill press and sandpaper method when I used to make beads out of case heads after I got too many reloads on them.  Said beads ^ I might try it. fps_bill fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Dec 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2013 06:00
|
|