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Plastic cement works by melting the area you apply it to. If you stick something on to that melted plastic, by the time the plastic solidifies again it'll have bonded with that addition. If you want to repair something with it, you need to give the chemical process time to fully finish. If you want a fast fix, that's what pins are for. With those you are physically holding the two parts together, so you don't need to wait nearly as long for a secure bond.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:34
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| # ? May 20, 2024 19:46 |
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Really you're just leaving it alone long enough to make sure the glue has utterly and completely set before even attempting to do anything with it. Saves on stress trying to re-glue the fucker time after time.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:35
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I never knew before that Testors even made rubber cement, but I do know that stuff is not intended for use on plastic models. Given the nature of the break you may not even need to use a pin, but redo it with proper plastic cement and make sure you thoroughly clean the parts before joining them again. edit: VVV the advantage of that stuff is that it works on all the plastic types you might find in a Gunpla kit, whereas I'm pretty sure Tamiya and Testors are only for styrene (I do use the extra-thin Tamiya and extra-thick Gunze for most applications though, they're both pretty good) Bimmi fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 7, 2013 |
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Dec 7, 2013 05:38
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Bimmi posted:I never knew before that Testors even made rubber cement, but I do know that stuff is not intended for use on plastic models. Yeah I ordered the one that was recommended by Bimmi so I'm definitely gonna redo it once that goes in.
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Dec 7, 2013 05:40
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Just started building my first gunpla in 10 years today. Halfway done on the MG Sinanju Ver Ka and have the MG Jesta on the way. Man it feels great to get back in the game. Last kit I had was the MG ReGZ. The transformation was hosed, but everything else looked good on it. It was Gundam Builders that gave me gunpla itch all over again.
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Dec 7, 2013 09:16
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Be careful with the Sinanju's waist peg; while the rest of the kit is amazing, lots of people have ended up snapping it in half. Fixing that was one of the main changes in the vOVA re-release. Also MG Jesta is just awesome.
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Dec 7, 2013 09:22
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There's nothing more infuriating than tiny parts on a 12cm kit. Jeeezus Anyway, how do you guys feel about painting over polycaps? Usually they're hidden, but I think this one Here's going to peek through a bit. It seems a bit harder than Bandai's PE, so it might take to it better if I paint it.
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Dec 8, 2013 06:06
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muike posted:There's nothing more infuriating than tiny parts on a 12cm kit. Jeeezus I'd build it and see how noticeable/out of place it looks, and it it's going to take away from the kit, go for it.
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Dec 8, 2013 06:25
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Problem is once it's in it's gonna be in, so I'd like to know ahead of time. I'll try some tests on the PE sprue and see what happens.
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Dec 8, 2013 06:34
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BizarroAzrael posted:Surely it's just a tiny woman? Actually that's Iori Sei showing off the fanciest new gunpla.
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Dec 8, 2013 09:32
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I've never found a paint that will stick to polycaps. The best I've personally found is Freak Flex acrylic, which coats well enough but is still pretty easy to scrape off. Regular stuff like Tamiya or Testors, forget it. Anyone know of something that actually works?
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Dec 8, 2013 09:41
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BizarroAzrael posted:Surely it's just a tiny woman? Nah, it's confirmed to be slightly lengthier than the original MG Sazabi's box. For perspective, the original's box was 59.0 x 32.0 x 11.5 cm. A couple of people seemed to have gotten a copy before the release date, and reviews have it looking beautiful. Sadly there's no way to display the funnels though. It's probably going to be a web exclusive like Double Fin Funnel.
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Dec 8, 2013 09:50
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  I have a sinanju and asides from Nu ver ka, it's far and away the most bulky gunpla I have. It's a head above Unicorn MG in destroy mode. And it's very solidy built. But gently caress. Sazabi dwarfs it.
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Dec 8, 2013 10:00
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Ignimbrite posted:
stay away from the O or FA unicorn, your mind may not be able to handle the shock
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Dec 8, 2013 10:09
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FA Unicorn isn't all that impressive actually, the weapons rack on the back don't really add that much to its presence. The O though? Absolutely.  EDIT: V Don't forget about the Hyaku Shiki you need to purchase to get two extra beam saber effect parts. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 10:17
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I have FA unicorn; without all his junk he's the same as any other unicorn. Sinanju is more solid (and frankly, far less fragile) than FA Unicorn even with all his weapons, awesome they may be. And I would dearly like a THE-O, if only they weren't around 140 bucks on average. Plus shipping.
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Dec 8, 2013 10:21
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MG The-O lists for ¥9600 at HLJ and ¥8790 at Amiami. It's not an especially good kit but if you love the design it's worth having. I wish it were better than it is, but I don't regret the purchase at all.
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Dec 8, 2013 10:32
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Do you like MG Dom? How about THREE of them? No confirmed price yet, but in case you're wondering, that box is almost as big as PG 00 Raiser's...
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Dec 8, 2013 17:50
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gently caress yes, I would def pose them in the slip stream attack in huge rear end diorama with the rx78. Its been awhile, but I remember the MG Doms being a really solid kit.
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Dec 8, 2013 19:49
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DookieSandwich posted:slip stream I think you meant jet stream.  anyway, the dom is a solid kit, but I'd get bored making three of the same kit.
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Dec 8, 2013 21:06
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What's the point of buying that when you could just get three of the non-bootleg version?
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Dec 8, 2013 21:21
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Katoki, I love your work, but you're breaking my balls with these decals. First it was the FA Unicorn, now the Sinanju Stein, and my web-exclusive Banshee Ver Ka just came in and that's next. They look so good once they're all decaled up though.Monaghan posted:anyway, the dom is a solid kit, but I'd get bored making three of the same kit. I got the 1/144 triple Dom set and I can confirm that it gets really old, even with a kit as easy as an HG Dom. That being said, I really like the Dom and I still kinda want to get that off-brand PG Rick-Dom someday.
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Dec 8, 2013 21:28
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Bimmi posted:What's the point of buying that when you could just get three of the non-bootleg version? The same reason anyone buys knock-off gunpla - it'll be considerably cheaper than buying three separate Bandai Doms. Don't get me wrong, myself and everyone else in the China Gunpla thread I frequent on another forum are just as confused by it, but I guess it was an easy bundle for Daban to make since they already made Char's Rick Dom a while ago.
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Dec 8, 2013 22:20
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Are they even any good though? I don't really keep up on the bootleg scene but high-profile kits like the RC Nightingale and Elyn Kshatriya have been pretty sad specimens.
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Dec 8, 2013 23:14
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Not really, but over in China bootlegs are the only sane option for a lot of people since the actual Bandai kits are just too expensive.
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Dec 8, 2013 23:21
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Bimmi posted:Are they even any good though? I don't really keep up on the bootleg scene but high-profile kits like the RC Nightingale and Elyn Kshatriya have been pretty sad specimens. Trust me, RC Nightingale and ELYN Kshatriya do not represent knockoff gunpla's quality. Daban in particular does a great job replicating Bandai's kits - you can see for yourself with this PG Strike Freedom review. That reviewer I linked reviews almost everything Daban releases, usually saying the kits are 95% the quality of Bandai's version.
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Dec 8, 2013 23:30
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Well, that's understandable I guess if the real thing simply isn't a viable option. Otherwise I dunno, the molding on that Strike Freedom looks pretty dodgy to me. If that is the current state of the bootleg art, I'd say "you get what you pay for" still applies.
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Dec 9, 2013 00:07
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TaurusOxford posted:Trust me, RC Nightingale and ELYN Kshatriya do not represent knockoff gunpla's quality. Daban in particular does a great job replicating Bandai's kits - you can see for yourself with this PG Strike Freedom review. That reviewer I linked reviews almost everything Daban releases, usually saying the kits are 95% the quality of Bandai's version. Where do you get these, because I'd like to try that just to see the quality of it? What is the price point for those?
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Dec 9, 2013 00:18
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ManSeriesBrofist posted:Where do you get these, because I'd like to try that just to see the quality of it? What is the price point for those? The best place is here: http://gundamcentral.weebly.com/
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Dec 9, 2013 00:33
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TaurusOxford posted:The best place is here: http://gundamcentral.weebly.com/ Much appreciated. I definitely want to check then out once my income isn't dedicated to other things.
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Dec 9, 2013 01:07
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I wonder how the hell you're supposed to get that little dry transfer decal in the Turn A Gundam's forehead.
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Dec 9, 2013 01:18
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Gammatron 64 posted:I wonder how the hell you're supposed to get that little dry transfer decal in the Turn A Gundam's forehead. Out of the dozen or so people who I know got that kit, not one has managed to get that little bastard in. At least the panel line is deep enough to get a small gundam marker or other colored model pen in there. Also, color me surprised, Bandai was kind enough to include gold-plated conversion parts for that Banshee Ver. Ka to turn it into the OVA Version, with the collar and chest piece. That's great, because the Ver. Ka's plain old "Black Unicorn" needs a little pizazz like that to make it pop.
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Dec 9, 2013 01:26
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TaurusOxford posted:Trust me, RC Nightingale and ELYN Kshatriya do not represent knockoff gunpla's quality. Daban in particular does a great job replicating Bandai's kits - you can see for yourself with this PG Strike Freedom review. That reviewer I linked reviews almost everything Daban releases, usually saying the kits are 95% the quality of Bandai's version. bootlegs sure have come a long way since early 2000. I still remember getting screwed over by a local anime shop because he stocked "bendi" kits. I think they ended being used by me in experimenting with weathering techniques, it's all they were good for.
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Dec 9, 2013 01:34
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Does anyone have that Strike Freedom? I'm gonna check it out, but outside of that guys review I'd love to hear a bit of experience from anyone who bought it.
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Dec 9, 2013 01:42
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This testors cement is not melting the plastic as much as I'd like. It's holding, but it isn't helping with seam lines as much as I'd like. I'll try something again tomorrow and see if I can get it to work for me.
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Dec 9, 2013 03:07
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That's why I prefer to use thicker cement - give the mating surfaces two or three coats until they're nice n' gooey and pressing the parts together pushes a nice bead of melted plastic out of the join, then hold 'em together for a minute or two so the bond is good and tight. The drawback is that I sometimes overdo it and have to wait 2-3 weeks for the dissolved plastic to fully cure before I can do anything else with it, but I'll be damned if I ever have to worry about a seam line 99 percent of the time.
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Dec 9, 2013 05:56
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I think the answer is somewhere in the middle!!
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Dec 9, 2013 06:09
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It usually works fine – it's a matter of getting the right feel for it, just like everything else in this damned persnickety hobby.
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Dec 9, 2013 06:13
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Got my pick 6 HGUC package in the mail today. It contained a Rick Dias, a Schuzrum Dias, a Re-GZ, an EWAC-zack, a Xekueins, and of course, an Acguy. not a bad haul for $40, and no loving Bawoos. Kinda sad that I didn't get any OYW types (that aren't acguys), but the ZZ designs are also pretty cool. As far as Testors cement, in my experience it's kind of deceptive in that it makes you think you can take pressure off when you shouldn't, because it will appear to be set after about a half hour. You really need to keep some form of pressure on the big parts (a dab of modeling clay on top of the piece is sufficient. The small parts you can usually just get away with the initial pressure. This experience comes from gluing battleship hulls together. Also, remember that you can use slightly thicker paint to fill in the seam lines if you just can't get rid of them because of the model flaws (as in the case of literally any aircraft kit that uses tooling made in the 60s. goddamn those things liked to warp and bend).
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Dec 9, 2013 21:39
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| # ? May 20, 2024 19:46 |
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Got my pick 6 HGUC package in the mail today. It contained a Rick Dias, a Schuzrum Dias, a Re-GZ, an EWAC-zack, a Xekueins, and of course, an Acguy. not a bad haul for $40, and no loving Bawoos. Kinda sad that I didn't get any OYW types (that aren't acguys), but the ZZ designs are also pretty cool. I sorta wish I did that. I guess they're no longer offering it, right? I can't even remember what website it was.
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Dec 9, 2013 21:48
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