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Thanks for the heads up about that Massdrop, I got excited until I saw that it was the Kit and then I was disappointed. I am far too lazy (and not handy enough) to buy the kit and put it together. I was all set to buy one on Friday because they had 10% off until I did the math. Even at 10% off, once you add in the shipping (~$50) it was only about $10 cheaper than Amazon, and I've got an Amazon Prime account. Amazon website says that it's Amazon Prime Eligible, so once they get back in stock, I could have it within 2 days for $10 more. Unless there is a flaw here somewhere that I'm not seeing.
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Dec 3, 2013 03:29
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FlashBewin posted:Unless there is a flaw here somewhere that I'm not seeing. FlashBewin posted:once they get back in stock, Anyhow, I've never seen/used Massdrop. How's this whatsit, now? Is this just, like, if kickstarter and groupon had a child, or something? And reading the comments and whatnot, I'm not clear: can I get a printrbot plus v2 through this or just the jr?
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Dec 3, 2013 03:38
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bung posted:How does PLA filament compare to ABS filament with regard to strength and rigidity? Basically, ABS filament fatigues, stretches and deforms when you bend it, but PLA filament snaps. So you can deduce that PLA is more brittle, but also stiffer and more dimensionally stable, while ABS is a lot tougher but also slightly less rigid and warps/curls a lot more without proper temperature control. ABS also smells unpleasantly like burning styrofoam cups when you extrude it, but PLA smells really quite pleasant and sweet. I'd compare it to maple syrup baking on a radiator. Personally I'd like to see 3D-printable delrin. Yum
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Dec 3, 2013 04:24
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Delrin would be awesome, but I want to print in UHMW.
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Dec 3, 2013 04:28
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It looks like Massdrop is a group-buy kind of thing. The more people buy/commit to buy, the cheaper the item gets. In this case, 12 people had bought and 15 had committed. This means that the kit was $569.99, and $10.64 to ship. When 20 people bought, the price dropped to $539.99. 30 people buy, price drops to $509.99. This is for the Printrbot Jr. Kit. At the stage it's at now, it's 5% off retail (plus cheaper shipping) at the next stage (20 people buy) it drops to what i'm assuming is 10% off, 30 buys, 15% off. Also, it looks like it's just the JrV2 now. Looks like they have different items or 'drops' that change periodically. 17 hours left to get the Printrbot Jr V2 kit at a discount price.
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Dec 3, 2013 04:49
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Sagebrush posted:Basically, ABS filament fatigues, stretches and deforms when you bend it, but PLA filament snaps. So you can deduce that PLA is more brittle, but also stiffer and more dimensionally stable, while ABS is a lot tougher but also slightly less rigid and warps/curls a lot more without proper temperature control. ABS also smells unpleasantly like burning styrofoam cups when you extrude it, but PLA smells really quite pleasant and sweet. I'd compare it to maple syrup baking on a radiator. Sounds delicious. Have you been tempted to extrude PLA directly into your mouth?
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Dec 3, 2013 05:31
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Bad Munki posted:Delrin would be awesome, but I want to print in UHMW. UHMW(PE?) would be awesome, but doesn't it need like, 20,000 psi to ram extrude? I want to 3D print with solid state extrusion. You can get regular old HDPE - the stuff milk jugs are made of - to tensile moduluses close to aluminum (7e10 Pa), and tensile strengths close to annealed 304 stainless (4.8e8 Pa). And this is all at densities about 1/8 that of steel. You can probably do even better with polycarbonates. Of course you need the aforementioned 20k# of pressure, but hey, a guy can dream, right?
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Dec 3, 2013 06:43
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Not sure how you'd get layer adhesion with solid extrusion, though.
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Dec 3, 2013 06:49
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Bad Munki posted:Not sure how you'd get layer adhesion with solid extrusion, though. Yeah, you couldn't just drop a high pressure die extruder into a printer and call it a day. It'd need layer welding, either with a quite hot build chamber, intermediate melt layers, or possibly laser welds. If high strength internals are good enough, the weld method would be sufficient. Alternatively, you could lead your die with a high temperature heating element, to melt the immediate surface of your soon-to-be-adhered-to layer. Layers don't melt particularly deep into each other, so most of the strength should be retained. edit: this is kind of the inverse of the current FFF method, where you drop hot polymer onto a cooler layer. This is all 10 years away, but it's fun to think about. Mofabio fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 07:04
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3D Systems is blowing minds today. http://www.3dsystems.com/resources/press-room/euromold-2013/reveal
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Dec 3, 2013 16:45
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Holy poo poo. Those prints  I think I need that 5500X and it just keeps getting better Haptix 
MickRaider fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Dec 3, 2013 |
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Dec 3, 2013 17:29
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What do you guys use for CAD? I installed Autocad as I got a 3 year license for free as a student. Are there options that are more geared toward 3d printing specifically?
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Dec 3, 2013 19:25
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I use solidworks, but autodesk Inventor is pretty comparable and you get that free as a student as well.
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Dec 3, 2013 19:44
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bung posted:What do you guys use for CAD? I installed Autocad as I got a 3 year license for free as a student. Are there options that are more geared toward 3d printing specifically?
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Dec 3, 2013 20:52
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I use Sketchup with an STL export plugin because it has served every one of my needs so far. I tried to get into Blender but since I'm not loving autistic I moved on. I tried autodesk's 123D Design which seemed OK until I got to the part where it couldn't do something fundamental with STL files - I think it can't import them or something. I don't really remember but I haven't touched it since.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:12
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This is a novel idea http://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2013-12/mtu-sba112613.php Basically using a mig welder as an extruder to make metal prints. Unfortunately there's no videos of it in action or more images of printed parts.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:48
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Anyone who has a K8200 and can post some prints?
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Dec 4, 2013 01:51
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bung posted:What do you guys use for CAD? I installed Autocad as I got a 3 year license for free as a student. Are there options that are more geared toward 3d printing specifically? If you still have some connection to a school, you can get a full commercial license to Rhino for $95. It doesn't expire and you can use it for any sort of commercial work you like as long as you want. For that price you don't get the advanced renderers or the animation stuff, but you don't need that for modeling. If you want the other stuff it's $495 for all of it with the same unlimited license. The only thing you don't get is free upgrades to the next version. Fairly steep learning curve, but once you understand surface-modeling you can make basically anything to extreme precision without much effort. It's ideal for industrial design but also works well for mechanical CAD and some types of organic objects. For a zero-cost option, I recommend Sketchup and Sculptris. One for things with straight lines, one for things with blobs. Both easy to pick up.
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Dec 4, 2013 02:52
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Mofabio posted:Yeah, you couldn't just drop a high pressure die extruder into a printer and call it a day. It'd need layer welding, either with a quite hot build chamber, intermediate melt layers, or possibly laser welds. If high strength internals are good enough, the weld method would be sufficient.
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Dec 4, 2013 05:42
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bung posted:What do you guys use for CAD? I installed Autocad as I got a 3 year license for free as a student. Are there options that are more geared toward 3d printing specifically? Sketchup works alright, but if you have free access to Autocad products for being a student then you really can't go wrong with Autocad Inventor or Autocad Inventor Fusion. They're both way more powerful and make a lot of things a lost faster than Sketchup. Inventor Fusion is like a slimmed down Inventor with some extra features that aren't really useful for 3d printing, but I have had a lot less trouble (none) getting fusion to export nice clean STL files for printing.
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Dec 4, 2013 06:52
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RS are now selling a branded version of the reprap ormerod for £500, http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printers/7933506/ Again, not the best or cheapest but a decent looking bit of kit with a heated bed, upgradeable to triple head. I also noticed the following in the datasheet: IR probing for self aligned printing - no bed adjustment required. Any idea what this entails?
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Dec 4, 2013 15:24
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I had been following the development of this one: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/shai/deltaprintr-a-simple-affordable-3d-printer?ref=live I was going to jump on it,but the timeline is simply too far away for me, so now it looks like the DIY option for me.
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Dec 7, 2013 09:59
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I've been looking pretty hardcore at the Rostock Max. Besides being 1200 after shipping and a few rolls of ABS, are there any major downsides? It looks like a bit of initial tweaking is necessary, and I'm okay with weeks of that of the end result is a possibly quick printer with a large build volume. The challenge is half the fun/misery, like with programming, and I'm not starry-eyed about it at all
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Dec 7, 2013 13:59
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Geirskogul posted:I've been looking pretty hardcore at the Rostock Max. Besides being 1200 after shipping and a few rolls of ABS, are there any major downsides? It looks like a bit of initial tweaking is necessary, and I'm okay with weeks of that of the end result is a possibly quick printer with a large build volume. The challenge is half the fun/misery, like with programming, and I'm not starry-eyed about it at all This is probably worth a read http://www.kronosrobotics.com/3d/rostock/
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Dec 7, 2013 20:23
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This is probably worth a read I ended up picking one of these up and I'm in the process of assembling it so I don't have any experience with using it yet but I did want to clarify a few things about this article since it's based on an older kit and there are some very strange things going on: His kit came with a borosilicate plate(you can see it in his picture on the left), but he complains about the PCB warping with heat, which all PCB heated beds will do. It's never ideal to print directly on the PCB, even with tape. I don't know why he never used the plate it came with and used a mirror instead. The delta arms have been redesigned which eliminate some of the error that got introduced with the tweaking required to get the old arms connected to the u-joints. I guess you still have to do some sanding with the end effector though. I'm not at this point in my build yet. I'm not sure why he thought he had to use a second power supply. I'm pretty sure you can use the included PC power supply(also in his picture at the top) for the heated bed. It is unclear which extruder he started with but none of it looks like the current EzStruder+SeeMeCNC Direct Drive(bad name, since it's explicitly not direct drive) extruder. People on the forums say the current one works well, though some still suggest going to the E3D Bowden extruder. Also, switching out for a QUBD, even modified, is a huge joke. Those things are pretty junk The SeeMeCNC forums have a ton of useful information and people are really friendly and helpful from what I've seen. You do have to watch out for old information but it's pretty easy to pick out by post dates. Deltas are definitely more finicky and difficult to calibrate from what I've read so far on their forums but the current kits are supposed to be really solid. That's why I bought one.  edit: Oh yeah, the new delta arms are much stiffer than the old ones which were pretty bendy. Putting the NEMA17 stepper and QUBD extruder on the end effector would have caused him all kinds of trouble if he didn't slow wayyyy down. Getting your end effector weight as low as possible is one reason why bowdens are popular with deltas. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Dec 7, 2013 |
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Dec 7, 2013 20:51
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ImplicitAssembler posted:This is probably worth a read But that article is old and full of spelling and grammar errors, and he printed directly on the heated bed.  Then he says he got the best PLA print he has ever had, then concludes by saying he gets the worst PLA prints of any printer with it (???). I'm choosing to disregard that site entirely based on that article.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 7, 2013 21:58
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Geirskogul posted:But that article is old and full of spelling and grammar errors, and he printed directly on the heated bed. Fair enough (Apart from the spelling/grammar comment..he may not be a native English speaker). Still not convinced by the SeeMeCNC forums though and it's not getting that nice reviews on the Delta Robot 3D Printer group either.
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Dec 8, 2013 04:01
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Do you have a link for that? Sounds interesting
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Dec 8, 2013 04:29
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Geirskogul posted:Do you have a link for that? Sounds interesting https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/K-jnscMwUwU
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Dec 8, 2013 05:31
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I'm having a hell of a time finding a printer that meets my needs that is actually in production or readily available. I would like something that prints a volume of at least 200x200x200, give or take, and is less than $700. I've been looking at the 3ders.com price comparison page and all of the printers I'd like to buy are either pre-order or have months for lead times. I don't mind building the machine in kit form but I want everything to be included so I don't have to source additional parts. Some of the ones that look interesting to me (based solely on printed specs) are the Kossel Clear PLA, Asterid 1000S, RepRap G3D, Robo 3D PLA, Rigidbot 10x10x10, or the Mbot Cube Single. Since so many of these 3D printer companies have sprung up and disappeared overnight I am very hesitant to pay now in hopes that I'll actually receive something months in the future. Just from reading this thread I've seen a few instances of pre-orders never being delivered. I'm afraid I'll lose interest by the time any of these printers actually start to ship.
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Dec 8, 2013 05:42
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I'm not trying to white knight the Rostock Max because I bought one but: Did you even read the thread or did you just watch that lovely video? I read this way back when the thread was ongoing and people tear into the guy pretty good. Also, the most recent post in that thread in October is a person praising the machine. There's another one from July too. I did a brief search of the delta group because it has been awhile since I read it and I can't find any evidence of this "not that nice reviews" you're talking about.
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Dec 8, 2013 05:55
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Guys, I'm having a really frustrating problem with my reprap. My extruder kept jamming, but it was never the right one for my hot end anyway so I took the opportunity to replace it with a wade's reloaded extruder that I had printed a while ago thinking that it could help the problem. I re-did the e steps calibration and it's pretty spot-on when I run it without the hot end attached, but all of my prints fail when I get to the 2nd layer. The 1st layer seems to go down OK, but the 2nd layer looks like it's not spitting out enough plastic. I printed a really crappy 10mm calibration cube, and it's 10mm tall so my Z axis calibration is OK. I've blown my whole Saturday trying to figure out what's wrong and I'm totally stuck. Can someone suggest a debugging step here? I'm tearing my hair out.
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Dec 8, 2013 07:13
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Check your slicer settings to be sure there aren't any weird overrides set?
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Dec 8, 2013 07:17
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Check your settings for a bad retract on layer change value. You can also look at the G-code between layers 1 and 2 to spot it, if you are familiar with it.
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Dec 8, 2013 07:19
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My slic3r settings should be the same as before - I've also double checked the g-code by doing a text search for "E-" and the only retraction looks like it's at the very end when it parks the extruder. Edit: I tried slowing the feed rate down on all of the layers to match the feed rate of the 1st layer. It's an improvement, but the layer 2+ infill still sucks compared to the layer 1 infill. This is so frustrating - I didn't have to print this slowly before Could my hot-end be dying somehow? There's a dark liquid on the outside that appears to have come from between the nozzle and the heater part (budaschnozzle) DBlue135 fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 07:23
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Cakefool posted:RS are now selling a branded version of the reprap ormerod for £500, Someone talk me out of buying this. RS has great customer support and it should ship in a couple of days at most.
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Dec 8, 2013 09:12
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DBlue135 posted:Could my hot-end be dying somehow? There's a dark liquid on the outside that appears to have come from between the nozzle and the heater part (budaschnozzle) Have you tightened the nozzle while it's cold? If filament has gotten between the nozzle and the heater block, it would melt and turn black after awhile, I imagine. You may want to make sure your resistor isn't shorted to the block either(this is unlikely, this would be more catastrophic and not layer based). If you have a thermocouple, you should probably make sure your temperatures are correct too. Cakefool posted:Someone talk me out of buying this. RS has great customer support and it should ship in a couple of days at most. Isn't that design totally unproven? If you like to live on the cutting edge, go for it. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 09:29
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What's unproven? The half-gantry design has been in use in small laboratory robots for decades, it's using fairly beefy extrusion so it'd be rigid enough.
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Dec 8, 2013 10:54
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Other than here, are there any good locations for general printer discussion that isn't all praise of printers and ~~post scarcity~~ discussion?
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Dec 8, 2013 14:55
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Cakefool posted:What's unproven? The half-gantry design has been in use in small laboratory robots for decades, it's using fairly beefy extrusion so it'd be rigid enough. I meant that specific printer, not in general. This is hobby level stuff we're talking here. RepRapPro first blogged about it 6 days ago I believe. Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Dec 8, 2013 |
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Dec 8, 2013 15:53
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